Circlips are usually either black or silver. I don't think the color matters in this case.

@@amanwithamultitool it possible to lose this circlip when the shifter is in the original position ?

That sounds like a pawl isn't catching, probably because the spring is either broken or just not fitted correctly anymore. Check to see which pawl is loose and then look at the spring on it- one end of the spring should catch on the pawl (usually on the backside of the pawl where it doesn't catch on the ratchet) and the other end should be anchored in a hole.

Sorry for the late reply. This is so late that mechanical 12-speed 105 is already available. But in case you're still interested, the Thingiverse project with drawings is linked to in the video description.

@@amanwithamultitool mechanical 105 is available for hydraulic disc brakes, but not for mechanical rim brakes for the 1970s steel bikes we all know and love (and have spread to 130mm for 8-9-10-11-12 speed rear sprocket sets). I have not fully disassembled the 12 speed mechanical unit, but the unit itself does not fit the 11 speed shifters.

I've had problems pushing it one way, but pushing it out the other way worked. Be careful with removing the lever- you may need to separate it from the hydraulic piston first.

@@amanwithamultitool Thank you for the information!

Likely it's steel. Does a magnet stick to it? WD40 isn't designed to remove rust. Do a web search for proper rust removal methods, products, and followup surface treatments and care.

The 5800 teardown or reassembly videos might have the part you're looking for in focus. They're pretty much the same construction besides a slight difference in one of the gear ratchets, a pawl, and the downshift return spring; and a different threading for the center axle. I've mauled the fine threads at the end of the center axle, which is preventing me from finishing putting the shifter back together again.

It's been so long, I've forgotten what the shim trick is. My upshifting issue has been fat fingering things and slightly pushing on the downshift lever at the same time- push that just a bit and the upshift lever pushes freely inboard. I just have to be more deliberate when pushing on the lever, especially when wearing full finger gloves. Another problem is when the grease starts to get a bit thick and the pawl doesn't move fast enough to catch on the ratchet. The effect is the same as above- the upshift lever freely swings inboard. This happens more often when it's cold. I just let the lever snap back and try again until it finally catches. This might get more common as the grease ages and gets more gummy. A lighter oil on the pawl would be a more lasting fix, though that might require degreasing the whole shifter first, then regreasing it.

Oh exactly the issue I'm having with the left lever on an Ultegra R8020. Tried everything short of taking apart the shifting mechanism. I will most likely end up replacing the whole shifter. So disappointing for it to be so unreliable. Electronic shifting seems more and more appealing 😕

Did you find spare parts ? Thanks

Did you resolve this yet? have the same issue

Did you find what the issue was? Note that "left hand" shifter, from what I've heard, can mean different things based on country: UK means rear-derailleur, Rest of the World means front derailleur. In my case the springs have weakened and don't do their job - when I inverted it, it sometimes worked.

It isn't broken.

M3x6

Probably. It is probably easier to just get the R7000 shift mechanism and install it in a Tiagra lever- it probably will drop right in.

I decreased cable pull by about 17%.

Here's an untested modification: www.thingiverse.com/thing:5559385

I'd first try using the shifter as it is. It takes a bit of throw to shift to the larger chainring, and if your dropper cable doesn't even move that far, then you're never going to "click" into that far position. if you do need to disable the upper gear, my concern would be deforming the aluminum cable spool when it snaps back into position. You can be careful about releasing the lever, but fingers can slip, and it might not be easy to be careful sometimes. I would remove the primary ratchet disc and leave the upper pawls, hoping to spread the impact force over two endstops- one of the upper pawls hitting the big tooth on the cable spool and the stamped steel of the frame catching on a lip of the cable spool. You will need to keep the secondary gear ratchet disc otherwise you wouldn't be able to move the cable spool at all to pull the cable. If you don't plan on using the shifter with a front derailleur, it would be best to just grind down the two(?) shorter teeth on the primary ratchet disc so the pawl would never catch in the outer chainring position.

The one removed starting at 2:19 holds the back of the shift mechanism to the brake body. Another screw holding the front of the shift mechanism is removed starting at 6:00, and a set screw pinching the top of the shift mechanism is loosened at 6:14 before I realized that the lever blade needed to be removed before the shift mechanism could be fully removed.

kzbin.info/www/bejne/rZWrh5t9l7SdatU

It's a bit simplistic to reduce electronic shifting down to two buttons, a motor, a driver, and some firmware. It also takes a fair bit of engineering. Go ahead and take a look at a teardown video of an electronic shifter or derailleur. I can take apart a mechanical shifter or derailleur and show exactly what each part does to help move the chain to the proper position. With electronic shifting there's going to be a lot of handwaving: "pressing this button sends a signal to shift down." Sure, what kind of signal? What's the protocol? What's the communications packet look like? What does this part labeled C3 on the PCB do? Is there a state machine in the shifter? On the battery? In the derailleur? There's a lot more to electronic shifting than there is to mechanical, so of course it costs more. Sure, maybe the firmware could be tweaked to change the number of gears and the spacing between the cogs, but it's not in the manufacturers' best financial interests to let the end user do that right now. And honestly, they probably haven't designed for the edge cases users like me would want to subject their components to, so it's better for them to limit compatibility instead of dealing with the hassle of trying to provide support for arbitrary compatibility. I'd love to explore how to hack their hardware myself, but besides not having any parts to experiment on, it's a whole other level of difficulty compared to taking apart a mechanical shifter.

@@amanwithamultitool I have to disagree since I have an electronics degree in engineering, and I have been working in this field for almost 30 years now. The components or hardware to build a control device for a motor have been in the making and improved upon for many years. All you have to do is go to data sheets and find the components that fit your purpose and place an order. Today we have people 3D printing their own parts and companies doing it also, and injection molding processes that have been simplified far more than how it used to be done. It has become so cheap to make RC toys so cycling shifting systems would not be that much different. In the area of manufacturing and packaging which is where I specialize machines do all the processes of filling, crimping, indexing, etc., I can't even repeat it all. Once the designing has been done the mass production of the item becomes so cheap to produce and not very labor intense. Machines even do all the surface mounting and soldering, and robotics play a large role. Electronic groupsets are very cheap to produce and should not cost $3K TO $4K to the consumer. It actually is simplistic in comparison to manufacturing and handling of the mechanical parts that also require much more inspection and hand labor.

I thought that a lot of that hand labor for mechanical shifting still has to go into assembling the electronic shifters- well, at least the electronic derailleurs. But sure, electronic shifting groups don't have to cost as much as they do now. It's almost as if the companies are maximizing their profit while they can. Ha ha. I can't get too worked up over it. Yes, they could change their firmware to work arbitrary numbers of speeds. Maybe they could sell more electronic groupsets for less. That's probably indicating that this is a market segment that's ripe for disruption. That's when I'll spend my money on electronic shifting. Until then, I'm trying to make 12 speed mechanical myself :) Maybe I'll make a video about my drop bar shifters with mountain bike derailleurs. They're only 11-speed because there aren't any 12-speed cassettes and derailleurs that can handle the 2x12 gearing I'd like

Realised that secondary pawl spring was broken and thus stayed engaged while in upright position and as I turned it upside down, it got disengaged due to gravity and worked fine. Inserted a makeshift spring using paper clip, wonder how long it shall last, worked well for a long 100 km Sunday right today though. Thanks once again, couldn't have done it without your video.

I'd try to use a bent safety pin instead, if you can find one ling enough. A paper clip can't flex far before it stays bent. I think a safety pin can usually flex farther.

If it's just the pawl, maybe anything from Sora to Dura Ace would work, so find an inexpensive new or used shifter to scavenge from? Anything that routes the shifter cable under the bar tape.

@@amanwithamultitool That's what I'll do. I came across a friend who has a crashed Ultegra 6800 that's been sitting in a box. The lever and outside is a mess, but the internals are intact. Should be a pretty easy swap. Thanks again!

@@amanwithamultitool Wanted to give you an update. I found a friend with crashed Ultegra 6800 right shifter. I was able to easily swap the internals and now I have a functioning Dura Ace shifter again! Thanks for your detailed videos that made this process so easy.