Yes, it is a nice feature for a car in this price range. I usually use the mode where the front and rear wheels steer in opposite directions as this gives a very tight turning radius. If you are interested, I also have a hobby grade RC car with the same feature. Check out the HG-P417 here: kzbin.info/aero/PLNbtVgLA4Mp7Vt4o2gF3Pl5yShkemQNTj

Sochi National Park

There are some 3D printed sand paddle tyres that will fit this truck. It would be interesting to see what sort of difference they would make on soft sand.

I reckon if you had a nice outdoor course and a couple of friends with these, it would be great fun. On the other hand, it is almost as cheap to just drive a Tamiya 1:10 scale buggy!

These Orlandoo Hunter RC cars are pretty much unique in the RC world. Great fun to drive but very difficult to work on.

@@BlackSeaRC👍🎶😄

I should have tried some jumps really to test the suspension, but it is difficult to film a fast moving vehicle that is so small.

Ne yazık ki bu arabada değil, bu üzücü.

Yine de yeni Porsche 911 GT2 RS Clubsport 25'imde kapılar açılıyor. Bu güzel bir araba!

@@BlackSeaRC teşekkürler bilgilendirme için

That's interesting to know. I have recently bought some parts for a future Rastar upgrade project. I have a new fully-proportional RC handset, 2.4GHz receiver, ESC, brushless motor, micro steering servo and LiPo battery. I am just trying to decide which car I want to modify. Can't decide at the moment!

how much did the Red Bull one cost you?

@@BVB09_rose This is a guide to the price but it will depend where you are located: www.amazon.co.uk/KandyToys-Officially-Licensed-Remote-Control/dp/B0CVXPBWC3/ There is also a cheaper 1:18 scale version.

İlgileniyorsanız, diğer Rastar arabalarımı burada görün: kzbin.info/aero/PLNbtVgLA4Mp7gFdycaAlia4Xg4wvu0m9x

@@BlackSeaRC teşekkürler

Certainly the TBLeague construction method of soft body on a metal skeleton is not without its problems but they do look great if you treat them carefully. I haven't had any issues with my TBLeague figures so far.

That sounds like an interesting project. It would certainly be possible to re-use the existing electronics or you could look at upgrading them. The problem with the existing electronics is that they are not very adaptable unless you have a similar configuration. You would most likely need to use the same gearbox module and steering gearbox arrangement. The suspension is also an area where the standard design is very basic. I suppose it all depends upon how radically you want to change the donor car. As for upgrades, the main reason to do it is to get fully-proportional controls and better performance. I have recently purchased a set of components to enable me to do this. I tried to find components at a good price because most people are on a tight budget. It includes a new fully-proportional trigger and wheel style RC handset, new receiver, new electronic speed controller, new motor, new rechargeable battery and a steering servo. The parts will require chassis modifications but I will try to keep all changes to a minimum. It would be great to 3D print some parts because hand-modified plastics never give a neat finish.

@@BlackSeaRC the car I want to create is the rbx2010 how should I do this thanks for the advice

@@dhsaka7794 The Red Bull X2010 is quite a radical shape. To get the front suspension and steering layout, you would be better to start with a Rastar F1 chassis. Look at my video of the McLaren MCL36 here: kzbin.info/www/bejne/oIGTgKNtqLJkb7c The internal component layout would also be more suited to the RB X2010 body. That is where I would start and work from there.

@@BlackSeaRC Thanks! I’ll let you know if I ever need any other advice

@@dhsaka7794 Okay, no problem. I shall be starting my Rastar upgrade project as soon as I decide upon a suitable donor chassis.

In the early days of RC vehicles, there was a lot of emphasis on scale realism. This particular product was a static model kit quality body with RC equipment integrated into the chassis. As the electrical components developed and performance levels increased, manufacturers looked at ways to make the bodies more robust. This meant that lightweight flexible polycarbonate bodies started to replace hard-moulded ABS bodies. Consequently, some amount of detail and realism was lost. Nowadays, I think there is also a culture of "bashing" where customers demand products that have high levels of durability and ultimate performance but don't care so much about looks. These are not my priorities so I look for vehicles with better scale realism instead. Often this means older kits but there are some brands that still care about realism if you know where to look.

It is a very nice body moulding with some great detailing. On the downside, the pick-up bed isn't very deep and there is no interior. Also, the cab and bed sections are screwed to the chassis, so battery access is awful. I also have a Tamiya Tundra High Lift and on that model, the rear bed hinges up to get access to the battery tray.

The metal upgrade parts are not cheap. The Front and Rear Metal Kit cost 140 GBP, the Shock Absorbers Set cost 45 GBP and the Evolution Under Panel Kit cost 44 GBP. So, 229 GBP in total. Bearing in mind that the complete kit only cost 199 GBP, it is quite an investment. Cost in USD is typically very similar to the cost in GBP due to shipping and taxes. Along with the radio equipment and paint, I have over 500 GBP invested in this model. The XR311 is the car that started Tamiya's off-road RC car journey so for me, it is one of the most important Tamiya products ever made. Without it, we may not have had the Special Racing Buggy series and all the other products that followed. I bought a set of steel bearings when I originally got the kit. It is only 8 pieces in the set as it is such a simple chassis. With the metal upgrades it does look superb though!

The pinion gear is 15T, high speed gear is 35T, medium speed is 45T and low speed is 63T. I believe that the three gear ratios are 9.3:1, 16:1 and 21:1. Perhaps with the right surface, you could exploit the top speed but I think this model is best suited to low speed driving due to the fragility of the body.

Hello there and thanks for watching. When you set up your steering, did you have the steering link rod at an angle to the servo or perpendicular to it? In my video, you will see that my range of steering movement is poor so I will probably need to adjust the servo position to give an angle on the link rod. Have you seen the crazy zebra paint scheme for the XR311 in the 1979 Tamiya RC Guide Book? I was actually looking for an XR311 body set with the aim of doing a custom paint job but I couldn't find one in stock, just very expensive vintage body sets. Since the XR311 kits are still available, I would have thought it ought to be possible to buy a spare new body? It is a pity that Tamiya never re-released the Lamborghini Cheetah version. I can only assume that there is an issue with licensing on the body as it would be easy to repeat the chassis. The upgrade parts are getting harder to obtain nowadays. I checked on the RC Channel website and a lot of the upgrades are out of stock. I believe that some items were originally made in small batches and it is not clear if they are going to be available again. For me, the parts are expensive but the finished chassis looks superb. With an RC car like this, it would be nice to have a runner and a display model.

What I always say to people is to try to find the product locally (at least in your own country) as otherwise, shipping costs might be crazy. Not sure where you are located but this is one possible place to buy: www.amazon.com/Rastar-Off-Road-Remote-Control-Car/dp/B089QJD3S1/

I appreciate your feedback. So please tell me, what sort of background music would you prefer? Maybe just calm mood or something cinematic or possibly just nothing at all? I totally understand the background music can affect your enjoyment of the video.

Thank you my friend. I bought this kit many years ago and have only just got round to building it. I really enjoyed the construction of the chassis because it went together very nicely. The body is a huge amount of work though. Lots of parts to paint and then glue in place in a specific sequence so it is not a quick job. I think it will look fantastic when its finished though.

@@BlackSeaRC😆🎶👍

I know what you mean about the body. I would love to assemble a lot of the detail parts prior to painting as it is sometimes difficult to hide the glue. However, with parts such as the mesh on the rear end, that isn't really possible without a lot of masking. I purchased a full metal bearing set when I bought the kit, but that was quite a few years ago now. This seems to be the current offering: www.modelsport.co.uk/product/yeah-racing-steel-bearing-set-8pcs-for-tamiya-xr311-1355924

@@BlackSeaRC Thank you!

When you look at this model, it is clear that Tamiya was very concerned to get the scale realism as accurate as possible. They actually looked closely at the technical characteristics of the real vehicle and replicated them where practical. The suspension layout is similar to the real car. Another thing to consider is that Tamiya started off building RC tanks. These used torsion bar suspension that had some similarities to this model. Also, because this was a very early RC car, the static model kit heritage is clear to see. They carried this attention to detail through to their RC cars. In fact, in the first catalogues they showed diorama ideas for the display of RC cars along with accessories such as work tools, garage equipment and mechanic figures.

They sound shit, many of us skip those videos as soon as it becomes obvious it's not a human voice.

That is a good suggestion. I wonder how easy it would be to get the spoken words to correspond with the text on the screen? I have already looked into this based on your comment and think I might see if I can implement it as a trial on one of my future shorter videos.

As you know, it is important for me that the RC vehicles in my collection have good scale realism. This one is particularly interesting because, firstly, it is a very rare and unique vehicle in real life and, secondly, it is nicely reproduced by Tamiya. I know it will not be the best driving vehicle ever but that isn't my number one priority in this case.

For me, this is one of my favourite Tamiya kits. It is not the best performer and it is not technologically advanced. However, it represents the very beginning of Tamiya RC cars and this metal chassis upgrade makes it even more special. The real vehicle on which this model is based also has a very interesting story. It is rather sad that FMC took the risk to develop this vehicle as a private venture, it was tested by the US Army and was highly regarded but at that moment in time they didn't buy any. FMC sold the rights to AM General and just a few years later the US Army actually ordered a very similar vehicle and AM General made a substantial amount of money over many decades.

Are you referring to the FY-03 brushed motor version or the upgraded FY-03H brushless motor variant? The upgraded version comes with metal body panels. I have noticed with this manufacturer that they tend to upgrade products and still refer to them with the same part numbers. This makes identifying the exact technical specification rather awkward. The FY-03H had various metal upgrades to cope with increased performance. I have never taken the main gearbox apart so I'm not sure what gears are used. I think the differential gears are metal though and a metal main gearset seems to be offered as a spare or upgrade. As for my buggy, it is still in regular use and I haven't needed to replace anything yet. It has had quite a few crashes on rough ground but nothing has broken so far. The only thing I've really noticed is that the front wheels do wobble a little bit so maybe the hub bearings are wearing. Also, I have to keep tightening the wheel nuts on the front as they come a little loose (even though they are Nyloc nuts). Overall, I am happy with the performance and durability, especially considering the price.

@@BlackSeaRC they brushless with plastic parts, but body itself came with stickers "Desert Rc" 2 colour option (red & green). and i just realize they shared same parts with wl12428.

Thank you for taking the time to leave your comment. Her next assignment will be to do some RC drifting. I am just waiting for her car and a new outfit to arrive!

That's a good price. For people living in Europe, USA, India, etc the prices in China look very attractive. Unfortunately, shipping costs and import taxes almost always turn the total cost into something much less attractive. With products of this type, I try to buy locally because the suppliers usually order in bulk and can get favourable shipping rates, but for more expensive hobby-grade RC cars, I try to order direct from China to get a better price.

is it possible to drift it

@@KhetheloMkhonza-eu1by Not really, no. The tyres are rubber and grip quite well, even on smooth surfaces such as laminate flooring. Usually, drift cars have special tyres to make them suitable for drifting. I shall hopefully be adding a specialist drift car to my RC collection shortly. I have been thinking about it for a while and decided I wanted to try.

@@BlackSeaRC sorry for asking a lot of questions how can i make it more faster

@@KhetheloMkhonza-eu1by That's a question that a lot of people want to know the answer to. Unfortunately, it is not a quick modification as it requires quite a few changes. Firstly, you would need a different motor. Then you should change the speed controller (electronic circuit board) and batteries. With these upgrades, you really need fully proportional control, so that requires an RC handset and receiver. I am about to undertake a Rastar upgrade project myself as so many people asked about it. I have bought all the components and I just have to select a model to modify. I purchased the most cost effective items as really it is not practical to spend a lot of money converting such an RC car. I have already reverse engineered a Rastar car to see what is under the body. See this link for details: kzbin.info/www/bejne/inKYhaaCd994mKc With my upgrade, I am hoping to increase the top speed from around 8-10kph to maybe 25-30kph. I am also planning to modify the steering at the same time to give a full performance upgrade.

Thanks for leaving your comment. I also have quite a few other RC cars from the Rastar brand. One of my personal favourites is the Maserati Levante. The new Porsche 911 GT2 Manthey is also a very nicely detailed model. If you are interested, have a scroll through this playlist and see if anything else catches your attention: kzbin.info/aero/PLNbtVgLA4Mp7gFdycaAlia4Xg4wvu0m9x

I think the whole model has aged gracefully. It was a great era for touring cars - Mercedes-Benz, BMW, Audi, Alfa Romeo, Ford, Opel, etc.

Cool! The same brand has some other interesting RC cars as well, but they can be quite hard to find. I tend to buy the Rastar models instead as I can get them locally. If you are interested, you can see some of the other RC cars in my collection here: www.youtube.com/@BlackSeaRC

Thanks for watching the video and welcome to BlackSeaRC. I always try to include a good range of information in my reviews and like to cover interesting scale-realistic RC vehicles of all types. I also made this video of the SG-1205 in action if you haven't seen it: kzbin.info/www/bejne/jpjSmXtnh5p3qcU This video used a different driver figure. She is also very realistic and the perfect size for this vehicle. You can see all the different action figures I have in this playlist: kzbin.info/aero/PLNbtVgLA4Mp7l_KsVsQrwB8l0crpNUUVW Because the SG-1205 is fully licensed, it is very accurately scaled. Unusually, the interior also has good space for a driver and passenger. Sometimes the footwell area is not reproduced in full depth on RC vehicles but this one is realistic. I typically buy my action figures from AliExpress as there is a good choice at competitive prices there. With regard to this type of vehicle, as you say there is very limited choice and that is one of the main reasons why I bought it. I guess it is semi hobby grade because although it uses reasonable electronics, there is only a limited selection of spares and upgrade parts currently available. It feels and drives better than a toy grade product but won't match the performance of something like the Losi RZR Rey (although, the Losi product obviously costs substantially more so that is not unexpected).

@@BlackSeaRC Wow! Thank you so much for your extensive response! 🙏 And thank you for your comprehensive content here on KZbin! I've seen your other video on the sg-1205. It made me want one even more! 😅 It's sadly pricier than it used to be. Can't find it cheaper than ~95€. Yes, the full, open interior totally demands and deserves a driver! What price range are we talking about on the Aliexpress action figures? 20usd? And what should I search for? (all I seem to find are toyish action figures for kids, bigger than 1/10th scale...) Yeah, the Losi is awesome but way over my budget, so this one is all I could get... 😅

@@just.jose.youtube I bought my SG-1205 when it was still on pre-order and I noticed that after I got it, the price jumped up quite a bit which is a pity. Usually, AliExpress gives the cheapest price for me. If I am selecting a seller on there, I won't use one with a rating less than 90%. Finding a decent action figure can be quite a challenge. It is quite amusing to see a plastic wrestler or superhero with visible joints in a 500 USD crawler. I prefer scale realism and real fabric clothes if possible. You are going to need something 1:12 scale which is okay as it is a common size (6 inch / 15 cm). The better it articulates, the more likely it will be to fit. You would be surprised how hard it is sometimes to fit a figure in the seat of scale vehicles. Are you looking for a male or female figure? Prices can vary quite a bit depending on the level of realism. I think you might need to spend more than 20 USD as even the big brand high volume figures can cost more than that. The figures I use tend to be directed towards serious collectors. They are produced in much smaller numbers and will therefore cost a bit more. Brands to look out for are Phicen/TBLeague, Verycool, JoyToy, LimToys, DamToys, etc. I don't usually search within AliExpress itself as their search facility is not very good. I use Google and add AliExpress in the search to give references that you can go straight to. Search for 1:12 or 1/12 against the brands above as a starter. But beware, there are still a lot of soldier/fantasy figure characters as that is what sells best. If you want an average man/woman figure, you will have to search a bit more!

@@BlackSeaRC thank you so, so much for your attention and explanations! 🙏🙏🙏👌 You also helped my future searches! Yeah, my budget is kinda limited, so I'll have do dig even deeper! 😅 I don't mind making some compromises. Thank you again! 🙏

@@just.jose.youtube No problem at all. You wouldn't believe how many hours I have spent searching for good scale-realistic action figures at 1:12 scale. I really do not like all the toy wrestlers or superheroes for RC vehicle applications. I must admit that I am not keen to spend a lot of money myself so if I find anything new that is interesting, I'll let you know.

An aftermarket chassis is an interesting modification. When I first got into RC cars, my local shop only really sold Tamiya and Kyosho. I was attracted to the scale realism aspect of RC vehicles but mostly ran off-road buggies as I had some fantastic places to drive. The TA01 was my first venture into on-road RC vehicles. Just recently I have been looking again at on-road vehicles and have been considering maybe getting a drift car.

Thank you my friend. Always glad to see you and find your comments.

@@BlackSeaRC 😄👍

Thank you for your kind appreciation!

I agree with you. Also, I would point out that the Tamiya servo-operated mechanical speed controller actually works very smoothly and effectively. The Acoms radio control equipment may not be advanced but it does everything it needs to do to drive the vehicle.

Which body set do you have on your TA01? There are some real classic rally and touring car bodies such as the Schnitzer BMW M3 and Axia Skyline GT-R. Amazingly, the TA01 was still being used as late as 2007 on the Humvee model, which proves how adaptable it was as that vehicle is completely different to an on-road racing car.

My bro had the 959 Dakar rothman porsche

@@ThaCatMan At the time of release, it was perhaps considered an overly complex model and rather fragile, but in recent times the 959 rally car has grown to become one of the most desirable vintage Tamiya RC models. If he still has it, then he is a lucky man!

Hello to you in Indonesia. Yes, my FY-03H is still working and it continues to exceed my expectations. For the price, it is a nice buggy and seems to be robust (it has survived many crashes and roll-overs). With regard to reliability, the only thing that has happened so far is that the screw came loose on the steering servo saver so I had to replace that. It was rather awkward to access and that is the main drawback of this vehicle. Getting to the electronics means removing quite a few screws. If you are interested, the FY-03H is going to be available from Banggood again soon. Check this link: www.banggood.com/Feiyue-FY03H-1-or-12-2_4G-4WD-Brushless-RC-Car-3000mAh-Metal-Body-Shell-Desert-Off-road-Truck-RTR-Toy-p-1804861.html?cur_warehouse=CN&ID=6287842

Who is better wltoys 12429 or fy03h? Thanks

@@riosugiartopratama3559 I haven't driven the WL Toys buggy but looking at the two vehicles, the FeiYue is more similar to the WL12427. The WL12429 has larger tyres and better ground clearance than the 12427 so I suspect it will be better over rough ground. The WL12429 has a brushed motor but the FY-03H has a brushless motor. I think the FY-03H and WL12427 are better for high speed driving on dirt tracks whereas the WL12429 would be better for lower speed driving in rough terrain. Really it comes down to the type of driving you want to do. Price wise, the WL seems slightly cheaper than the FeiYue but the specification of the FeiYue is slightly higher. The FY-03H has been around for quite a few years now and you don't hear so much from the brand anymore. Getting spares for either vehicle is going to mean relying on AliExpress or Banggood.

It might not have any fancy carbon parts or blue anodised aluminium like the latest TA08, but it is not a bad looking car for a 32 year old model is it?

@@BlackSeaRC yeah it hard to believe this thing is 32yr old. I first thought it just made like 10-12 years ago but it so old. It double of my age 🔥

I think this can be better with new transmitter and new receive . Like Dumborc RC is a cheap transmitter but very long range and 2.4ghz not 27mhz

@@Aloc209 The use of 27MHz nowadays is not very good due to signal interference. Also, a compact ESC would replace the MSC and throttle servo to save a bit of weight. A new receiver would also be much smaller and lighter. The TA01 could also obviously handle more power because a Tamiya Dynatech motor was one of the suggested upgrade parts.

You are right. But products like this are a balancing act. On the one side is good quality, scale realism, licensing and low cost and on the other side is better performance and higher grade electronics (e.g. proportional control). I think we are currently at the point where fully proportional 2.4GHz electronics are almost down the cost level where they could be integrated into toys like this. That would give a huge improvement in the driving experience without increasing the cost too much. I expect that will happen in the next few years.

The gearbox is certainly a weak link with many conversions, especially when people install very fast brushless motors. The problem is that the standard configuration of plastic gears used by Rastar is not easily upgradeable with dimensionally identical metal gears. Using a combination of plastic and metal gears is likely to cause wear issues over time, but it is also true that certain gears are weaker than others due to the size and number of teeth. If possible, replacing the weaker gears first will help, even if it is metal running with plastic. The teeth must have the same profile though. I have recently bought some components to try a conversion of my own. So many people were asking about it that I decided I should experiment myself. I chose a brushless motor but not a super fast one as I knew it would probably just strip the gears. My aim is to reach the scale top speed of the vehicle. So, if I use a model of a real car that has a maximum speed of 200-250mph, this will be a target of 14-18mph at 1:14 scale. The standard top speed is around 5-6mph so that would make the modified car about 3 times faster. My main aim is not to make the fastest ever Rastar RC car but to improve the driving experience by giving it fully proportional controls so that control of the vehicle is much enhanced.

@@BlackSeaRC Thank you for your interest and detailed comment. When upgrading, my preference is also for durability and driving pleasure. I'm looking forward to a detailed conversion video from you; that would be great.

@@osmansozen3963 The key thing about Rastar cars is that they always look fantastic and have great scale realism. I want to retain that and certainly don't want to have big high-speed crashes as the body won't survive unscathed. My emphasis will be on better control and drivability, hopefully without significantly affecting the reliability (although that is yet to be proven). I haven't decided upon what donor car to use for the project yet but will be making my selection soon.

On the other hand, you plug it in and it works, no fuss and no set-up required. All the electronics on my old RC cars still function perfectly but the modern ones are more troublesome. I have recently built a few older style kits and I really appreciated their simplicity. The design is much more basic than modern kits, yet they still do the job and were a pleasure to work on.

My RC collection is currently 42 different models, 20 different brands, off-road, on-road, hobby grade, toy grade, scales between 1:10 and 1:32, but rather awkwardly, not all in the same location. Every single RC car has its own unique transmitter and battery so as you can imagine, it takes up a lot of space!

@@BlackSeaRC that's why it would be interesting to see it, maybe you can create several parts

@@MegaTraxxas It is a good idea, I'll have to see if I can pull something together.

I have never owned a belt drive RC car but I always considered that a good old-fashioned shaft drive was more robust and reliable in the long run. It is crazy to think that the TA01 of 1991 has spawned so many different chassis derivatives over the years. The driveline on this one seems very smooth and as if everything fits together with tight tolerances. The wheels and driveline feel very balanced under power. I am really starting to appreciate the older Tamiya products whenever I look back at them.

I Here, the BBX is a robust car.I've seen someone without a slipper.Clutch put a seventy one hundred k v brushless motor in it and it ran if just fine.

@@bradkalman2353 I built my BBX without the slipper clutch upgrade. It is an expensive option and I'd already spent a lot of money on the electronics so I decided to try it as it is first. I am not usually so hard on my equipment anyway as I mostly drive on sand.

Looking at it now, it hardly seems like a 30+ year old design. Having built a few new kits recently, the older ones were a pleasure to build and went together without a hitch, but the more modern ones were sometimes overly complex and much harder to work on and maintain.

@@BlackSeaRC Are you gonna look into the hornet evo?

@@bradkalman2353 It certainly looks like an interesting development. I usually tend to select vehicles with a good level of scale realism. I have recently been building a Buggy Champ/Rough Rider and a BBX and I must say, I enjoyed the old-school style build much more. Considering that the Rough Rider design is 45 years older than the BBX, its design and simplicity really impressed me. The trouble is, I have so many RC vehicles on my shopping list already, I just don't know what to get next!

@@BlackSeaRC get the hornet evo it comes out in the fall.

@@bradkalman2353 I have a couple of sources for buying kits, usually in UK or Hong Kong. In UK, the price is around 200 GBP for the kit, so around 250 USD. Of course, that will be closer to 300 GBP by the time you get all the electronics. Do you know what the price is going to be for you locally?

Yes, unfortunately I was running a bit low on funds as I was saving up for a new RC truck. Then the KZbin analytics seemed to demonstrate that uploading lots of videos actually made my viewing figures worse. It annoyed me to spend a lot of effort making videos and getting bad results. After all, this should be a hobby to enjoy. Anyway, I put that behind me and made quite a few videos recently so I just have to edit everything now and hopefully you will like what is coming up. I have my old Kyosho Double Dare monster truck, a few Tamiya buggies and trucks, plus I'm going to upgrade a Rastar toy grade RC with hobby grade electronics just for fun.

Once I'd dusted it off, I began to appreciate why I bought it all those years ago. I think my view of it was clouded because I remember the stickers really annoying me! As someone who likes every detail to be correct, I have no idea how Tamiya expected all those lines on the livery to align around the curvature of the roof, wheel arches and bonnet. But somehow I must have managed it as it could have proved a disaster and in reality, it doesn't look too bad!

I recently ran mine on the beach. These products are designed for indoor or outdoor use. You'll get sand and dust all over it but when I'd finished, I dusted all the sand off with a small paintbrush and it was fine. I wouldn't recommend going through puddles but dry dirt will be okay. Just be aware that it will be tricky to clean in places due to the small scale and it will probably never look as good as new again.

I recently ran mine on the beach and everything is fine with the truck. See it in action here: kzbin.info/www/bejne/bYacmnV9hdSFZ6M