Thanks! Check out my other Rastar RC cars here: kzbin.info/aero/PLNbtVgLA4Mp7gFdycaAlia4Xg4wvu0m9x

Thanks, that's nice to hear. I spend quite a lot of time and effort producing videos and often the recognition is limited. This video in particular seemingly appears nowhere in the KZbin searches and this makes it hard to generate views. I do still post to the BlackSeaRC page on Facebook but unfortunately my access is limited to when I am in the UK. Therefore, I cannot check and respond to messages regularly. The best way to contact me at the moment is to leave comments under a video. I suggest to use this video where you can ask anything you want about RC and I will try to reply: kzbin.info/www/bejne/qIa7oayNpZiIeJY

The Hummer EV may not appeal to everyone because racing cars and hypercars are often the most popular, but for me this model is very interesting. In this price range, it has a lot of unusual features such as multi-mode 4-wheel steering and 4-wheel drive. Plus, with its opening doors and visible fully-detailed interior, it is one of the most impressive Rastar RC cars to date.

Thank you. You might also like the iconic Tamiya XR311 kit build with full metal chassis upgrade video on my channel.

I know what you mean about the slow speed, plus the turning circle is quite large. I recently bought some parts to try a Rastar upgrade project. I have a brushless motor to improve the speed and proportional electronics to make it easier to control. It might not improve the turning circle because the basic steering geometry is not easy to change but the steering will be easier to control as the push button handset is no longer used. I was planning to modify a different Rastar car but underneath, the components are usually very similar so the conversion will apply to almost any Rastar car of this size.

こんにちは！The Rough Rider promotional videos playing in the window of my local hobby shop in the early 1980's first got me interested in RC vehicles. I couldn't afford a Rough Rider but I got a previously owned Holiday Buggy instead. Over 4 decades later, I am still playing with RC cars and now my son is joining me as well!

@@BlackSeaRC that’s great 😃 Enjoy

There is not so much choice of RC cars in the F1 style in this price range so it is a nice model.

She is around 55 to 60g, so not enough to affect stability of the craft.

@@BlackSeaRC thanks, i was not thinking about stability, but weight on the front.

@@manfirebirdF350 At slow speed in fast flowing water, the front can dip a bit but as soon as power is applied the craft goes to the plane condition very quickly. I don't think the rider adversely affected the performance of this model. It seemed to behave as I would expect when turning and when travelling at speed. Plus, it looks incomplete without a rider.

@@BlackSeaRC mine goes really deep at full speed in hard turn without fig. should i paint it yellow as the submarine? LOL

@@manfirebirdF350 You can probably see in my video that mine also goes under the water in tight high-speed turns. I noticed quite a bit of water inside the hull (much more than a few drips) after running and I also found that the electronics were glitching afterwards. I found this a little concerning as everything should be fully waterproof but it was behaving as if the water had affected the ESC. How much water do you get inside your hull?

When I was first starting in this hobby in the early 1980's, the Rough Rider was a revolutionary buggy but it was too expensive to own one. I was very glad to be able to buy a re-release version 3 decades later. As for the BBX, it instantly won a lot of fans and has been a very popular product. It has all the right ingredients to make it a success and future iconic Tamiya buggy.

Are you a fan of the older style Tamiya buggies or do you prefer the newer ones?

@@BlackSeaRCI want the newly released Hornet EVO🐝👍

@@GARYU-S44 The Hornet Evo is getting quite a lot of attention. In the UK, the kit price is 195 GBP. To compare, I purchased my BBX kit from Hong Kong for exactly the same amount.

I'm looking forward to seeing the BBX running video😎🤝😁👍

@@GARYU-S44 I will be running it on the beach when the sand is a bit drier.

I had originally planned to fit the slipper clutch but my total spend was going up and up. In the end I thought I'd run it as it is as I have quite a mild power set-up and see how it goes. Generally, I run on sand so the driveline isn't too stressed anyway. I love the simplicity of the Rough Rider/Buggy Champ design but the BBX is the first Tamiya product to tempt me in quite a few years.

Haha, I spent a long time trying to work out how to get the gearbox apart and the wheels off. Some other videos showed a centre cap on the wheels but that only applied to some earlier models. I was convinced the wheels were just push fitted into place but didn't want to risk breaking them by pulling too hard. Then I found the wheel cover just unclips from the back and after hours of trying it is just a simple 30 second task. Everything is only easy when you know how! By the way, I shall be starting an upgrade project on a new Rastar model shortly. I have some new electronic components that I shall fit to demonstrate a budget-friendly conversion that improves driving characteristics.

What went wrong? It doesn't react at all to the handset? Try this - take all the batteries out of the car and RC handset. If you are sure the batteries are good, refit them to the car and handset. Note that you could easily drain the batteries in one day so it is best to troubleshoot with new batteries. Always switch on the handset first, then switch on the car. This way the handset "binds" to the car. If you switch on the car first, sometimes the handset will not bind to the car and you will get no control.

Unfortunately not on this model. It is rather random whether Rastar choose to provide opening doors or not.

This is a 2430 size motor which is the same casing as the one I chose (mine is 5400KV though). I haven't started my conversion yet but I'm pretty sure this is the commonly used size. You will still need to trim the gearbox casing slightly though. It will be quite a bit faster with that motor. I went for a mid-range motor because I don't want to strip the gears. It is a bit of trial and error though with a project like this!

@@BlackSeaRC thanks mate i literally got this car because of you you should mod the bmw m4 1/16

@@Martynas-s4o I have the red M4 CSL in my shopping basket. Just not 100% convinced, mainly because I know there are three new 1:14 scale models coming soon and I want to buy those.

That's why I made the review so you can see if it is the sort of product worth buying. At this price level, it has nice scale realism but limited performance. Maisto also has a 1:10 scale RC F1 car that is designed for similar applications.

@@BlackSeaRC thank you for the review. It does look like a damn good model but the performance is so so, but as you said it's cheap. If it was $1000 I'd expect it to be perfect.

@@The.Drunk-Koala The choice of decent RC Formula 1 cars is actually quite limited. Anything with reasonable performance is likely to cost over 100 USD.

What would you like to know my friend? This model is available in both scales, but the larger version has opening doors and a detailed interior.

That's a very good price. The price on Amazon for example is 80 USD. Link: www.amazon.com/Voltz-Toys-Authentic-Licensed-Collection/dp/B0C8L393JH

The metal tracks upgrade should help the E-1 drive better. If you are looking for something more adventurous, how about a custom module to replace the rear canopy? Search 'GAZ-34039' for some ideas.

I am planning to do a conversion soon. I have already bought a selection of parts such as a new transmitter, receiver, ESC, motor, steering servo and rechargeable battery. I will undertake a conversion on one of the latest Rastar models. My aim is to improve drivability and performance, whilst keeping modifications and costs to a minimum.

@@BlackSeaRC that would be nice to see 👍

I appreciate that this is only a toy-grade RC car but there is still a huge market for products like this. Not everyone is a dedicated RC enthusiast who wants to spend hundreds of Dollars on the ultimate performance machine. Some people just want to spend their pocket money on a car that looks great on the shelf and is a bit of fun in the carpark every once in a while. You don't need high speed to have fun. I am planning to modify a Rastar RC car in the near future. I bought a variety of low-cost upgrade parts and will see if I can improve the driving experience without spending too much.

This model is really packed with little details that all help to take the scale realism to another level. The accessories then add further to the realism. It is just a pity that there is no interior detailing, but maybe I will try to rectify this in the future.

The figure came with natural hands and gripping hands. With the gripping hands, she holds the hand grips quite securely. I also attached a short length of thread around the wrist on one side and tied it to the handlebars. This was more for security in case the craft overturned. In reality, the gripping hands were enough as she rode the craft perfectly without falling off. If you are using a different type of figure with more rigid limbs or one that can't grip the handlebars, you will probably need to tie around the wrists. I didn't want to fit the figure permanently so bonding the figure in position wasn't an option for me.

@@BlackSeaRC Surprised she didn't flip up off the seat but guess the legs gripped enough to hold her down. Thanks for the reply.

@@DENSUTUBE2008 The TBLeague figures have soft-touch skin and the legs actually grip the seat.

The snorkel turned out to be a real pest to fit. As soon as I saw the paper template that you need to tape to the cab for drilling, I knew it might be awkward. Getting the 4 tabs on the back of the moulding to line up properly with the drilled holes and then securing the snorkel is a big pain. Plus, as you say, the moulding isn't flexible enough and doesn't follow the profile of the cab properly. At the moment, this is one of several areas where I am not happy with the result. The side steps are another. They are supposed to attach to the pick-up bed section but this means they do not run parallel with the underside of the cab. At the front, a gap appears. I tried fitting various combinations of washers on the side mouldings where they attach to the chassis but no combination would give the result I wanted. So, this is still work in progress at the moment.

With regard to the colour, I was debating whether to go with the polished look or the weathered look. Obviously, this is a working style pick-up truck and would have suited the weathered look very nicely. However, it is quite a large body to paint and I have never weathered a body before. Therefore, I decided to run it like this for now. I'm sure it will get scratched up after a bit of use.

You will be able to see the lights and the running in the next video in this series. When I was filming, I actually had a bit of trouble with the set-up of the transmitter, ESC and lighting control board. There are so many wires to deal with and I must have done something wrong as first the steering was reversed and then the motor wouldn't react to throttle inputs. I was not helped by the rather vague instructions from both Cross-RC and Volantex.

@@BlackSeaRC OK cool can't wait!

@@WiKiTWoNKa I'll get to it as soon as I can. So many projects on the go at once!

Thank you very much for your suggestions. I usually try to get hold of the latest RC cars, but in most cases it depends upon the availability as I don't have so many shops locally that sell Rastar products. The Lamborghini Huracan STO was on my list of considerations, but I was thinking about the alternative colour scheme. I have also been waiting for some of the newest releases to arrive in stock. I plan to buy the Aston Martin Valkyrie, Ferrari 499P Le Mans car and Porsche 911 Dakar in the near future. I hope these choices will be interesting for you.

@@BlackSeaRC thanks for your reply my only interest though is the huracan. you don't like the blue color r/c sto? here in manila we only got to have the lime green one which imo yuck.. but the sto design is so beautifully made though by rastar..hehe

@@matsingsamarikina7780 It is interesting to read that you only got the green/yellow version in Philippines. Almost every review I have seen shows the blue version and I thought the alternative colour was much rarer. I see that Rastar also made a grey version but I have never seen this one at all for sale. Perhaps it is only for the Chinese market as I know that sometimes they have exclusive colour options. Rastar did a great job with the STO for sure. Locally, the STO is quite expensive but the new Countach LPI800-4 has just become available. Unfortunately, this model is 1:16 scale rather than 1:14 and doesn't have any opening doors or bonnet.

@@BlackSeaRC hey there from what country are u from sir? yeahp i think the lime green one is rare but in our country dozens of toys r us have that and nobody's buying it lol i want that grey color i never saw that one. by the way last week i just bought the blue sto but here in manila we only got the diecast 1/18 version and omg its so beautiful the only drawback for me it does not move because it isn't rc. by the way of all the rastar models which one for you is the most worth it? and last question which one do tend to last i mean from full battery to 0%? are the f1 cars more stable and longer battery life than the hypercars eg: Ferrari or lambo ones?? many thanks cheers mate.

@@matsingsamarikina7780 I'm from UK but I am currently based on the Black Sea coast close to Sochi. Here, availability of Rastar products is not great. There is one main store and I have to hope that they get new RC cars in stock. This can take quite a while after they are released in China. I have been waiting for new models for over 6 months now and hope they will arrive before the end of this year. I never really looked in detail at the diecast Rastar models because I only collect RC versions. As for my favourite Rastar RC model, I like the products with opening doors as these additions don't usually add to the cost. In my opinion, the older models feel better built. My Ferrari 599 GTO, for example, somehow feels more solid, but it uses old electronics. I think the Ferrari FXX-K Evo is a great model and is one of my favourites. It has a good combination of radical body design, interesting graphics, opening doors and interior detail. The G63 is another good model as it gives a lot for the price (if you like SUV's of course). I am waiting impatiently for the new Aston Martin Valkyrie and I have high hopes for this model if the price is reasonable. With regard to battery life, Rastar cars tend to use common components inside. The driveline and gearbox configuration usually follows a standardised design so performance and battery life are similar for 1:12, 1:14 and 1:16 scale cars. Therefore, an SUV provides the same level of performance as a hypercar. The F1 cars are no faster than the other models. They do run quite nicely due to the larger size and longer wheelbase but on the downside, they have no suspension so the surface you are driving on must be smooth. Most of my cars use 5x 'AA' type batteries in the car (6V) but note that some of the new 1:16 scale cars only use 4 batteries. Also, those models with a rechargeable battery pack only have a 4-cell pack as the connector takes up the space of 1 cell in the battery compartment. My Porsche 911 GT2 Manthey-Racing uses this arrangement and I was disappointed with the 4-cell 4.8V battery as it gives inferior performance and run-time. In future, I will still buy the AA battery version for this reason (plus it is cheaper). The only exception will be my upgrade project car where I plan to get a rechargeable battery version as it will hopefully minimise modifications in the battery compartment area. The run-time with AA type batteries is dependent on the brand and capacity rating. If you have a higher mAh rating, you can get quite a bit more driving time. However, with AA batteries, the performance drops away as soon as you start driving so you only get peak performance for the first 5-10 minutes or so. After this, the performance slowly declines. Maybe you will get 30 minutes of driving but for the last 15 minutes, the performance will be quite poor. My plan for the upgrade is to use a LiPo battery that will hold peak performance for much longer and then die quickly at the end.

Yes, it is a nice feature for a car in this price range. I usually use the mode where the front and rear wheels steer in opposite directions as this gives a very tight turning radius. If you are interested, I also have a hobby grade RC car with the same feature. Check out the HG-P417 here: kzbin.info/aero/PLNbtVgLA4Mp7Vt4o2gF3Pl5yShkemQNTj

Sochi National Park

There are some 3D printed sand paddle tyres that will fit this truck. It would be interesting to see what sort of difference they would make on soft sand.

I reckon if you had a nice outdoor course and a couple of friends with these, it would be great fun. On the other hand, it is almost as cheap to just drive a Tamiya 1:10 scale buggy!

These Orlandoo Hunter RC cars are pretty much unique in the RC world. Great fun to drive but very difficult to work on.

@@BlackSeaRC👍🎶😄

I should have tried some jumps really to test the suspension, but it is difficult to film a fast moving vehicle that is so small.

Ne yazık ki bu arabada değil, bu üzücü.

Yine de yeni Porsche 911 GT2 RS Clubsport 25'imde kapılar açılıyor. Bu güzel bir araba!

@@BlackSeaRC teşekkürler bilgilendirme için

That's interesting to know. I have recently bought some parts for a future Rastar upgrade project. I have a new fully-proportional RC handset, 2.4GHz receiver, ESC, brushless motor, micro steering servo and LiPo battery. I am just trying to decide which car I want to modify. Can't decide at the moment!

how much did the Red Bull one cost you?

@@BVB09_rose This is a guide to the price but it will depend where you are located: www.amazon.co.uk/KandyToys-Officially-Licensed-Remote-Control/dp/B0CVXPBWC3/ There is also a cheaper 1:18 scale version.

@@BlackSeaRC What voltage is on that LiPo battery?

@@R3troZone The LiPo that I shall be using for the upgrade project is 7.4V.

İlgileniyorsanız, diğer Rastar arabalarımı burada görün: kzbin.info/aero/PLNbtVgLA4Mp7gFdycaAlia4Xg4wvu0m9x

@@BlackSeaRC teşekkürler

Certainly the TBLeague construction method of soft body on a metal skeleton is not without its problems but they do look great if you treat them carefully. I haven't had any issues with my TBLeague figures so far.

That sounds like an interesting project. It would certainly be possible to re-use the existing electronics or you could look at upgrading them. The problem with the existing electronics is that they are not very adaptable unless you have a similar configuration. You would most likely need to use the same gearbox module and steering gearbox arrangement. The suspension is also an area where the standard design is very basic. I suppose it all depends upon how radically you want to change the donor car. As for upgrades, the main reason to do it is to get fully-proportional controls and better performance. I have recently purchased a set of components to enable me to do this. I tried to find components at a good price because most people are on a tight budget. It includes a new fully-proportional trigger and wheel style RC handset, new receiver, new electronic speed controller, new motor, new rechargeable battery and a steering servo. The parts will require chassis modifications but I will try to keep all changes to a minimum. It would be great to 3D print some parts because hand-modified plastics never give a neat finish.

@@BlackSeaRC the car I want to create is the rbx2010 how should I do this thanks for the advice

@@dhsaka7794 The Red Bull X2010 is quite a radical shape. To get the front suspension and steering layout, you would be better to start with a Rastar F1 chassis. Look at my video of the McLaren MCL36 here: kzbin.info/www/bejne/oIGTgKNtqLJkb7c The internal component layout would also be more suited to the RB X2010 body. That is where I would start and work from there.

@@BlackSeaRC Thanks! I’ll let you know if I ever need any other advice

@@dhsaka7794 Okay, no problem. I shall be starting my Rastar upgrade project as soon as I decide upon a suitable donor chassis.

In the early days of RC vehicles, there was a lot of emphasis on scale realism. This particular product was a static model kit quality body with RC equipment integrated into the chassis. As the electrical components developed and performance levels increased, manufacturers looked at ways to make the bodies more robust. This meant that lightweight flexible polycarbonate bodies started to replace hard-moulded ABS bodies. Consequently, some amount of detail and realism was lost. Nowadays, I think there is also a culture of "bashing" where customers demand products that have high levels of durability and ultimate performance but don't care so much about looks. These are not my priorities so I look for vehicles with better scale realism instead. Often this means older kits but there are some brands that still care about realism if you know where to look.

It is a very nice body moulding with some great detailing. On the downside, the pick-up bed isn't very deep and there is no interior. Also, the cab and bed sections are screwed to the chassis, so battery access is awful. I also have a Tamiya Tundra High Lift and on that model, the rear bed hinges up to get access to the battery tray.

The metal upgrade parts are not cheap. The Front and Rear Metal Kit cost 140 GBP, the Shock Absorbers Set cost 45 GBP and the Evolution Under Panel Kit cost 44 GBP. So, 229 GBP in total. Bearing in mind that the complete kit only cost 199 GBP, it is quite an investment. Cost in USD is typically very similar to the cost in GBP due to shipping and taxes. Along with the radio equipment and paint, I have over 500 GBP invested in this model. The XR311 is the car that started Tamiya's off-road RC car journey so for me, it is one of the most important Tamiya products ever made. Without it, we may not have had the Special Racing Buggy series and all the other products that followed. I bought a set of steel bearings when I originally got the kit. It is only 8 pieces in the set as it is such a simple chassis. With the metal upgrades it does look superb though!

The pinion gear is 15T, high speed gear is 35T, medium speed is 45T and low speed is 63T. I believe that the three gear ratios are 9.3:1, 16:1 and 21:1. Perhaps with the right surface, you could exploit the top speed but I think this model is best suited to low speed driving due to the fragility of the body.