7-8 degree taper on a squish band is alot but it wont ruin a saw. We have to remember that many factory cylinders have cast band with alot of taper and they run great 😊 my Jonsered 525/535 hybrid has bunch of taper on a stock cylinder and 1,5mm squish and runs just fine 😊

On the exhaust simply use two gaskets. Dyno Joe makes a cut squish by hand kit. It works very well. You cannot deck a cylinder accurately this way. The Saws with cylinder extensions will not work with this method. A cylinder base that is not cut square will wear out the cylinder piston and rings. Removing the base gasket will drop your cylinder .015-.020. Keep your squish above .020.

WTF

Climbing in shorts and sneakers…I’ve seen it all now!

Looks like a very good set up you guys have

Are there ANY big bore kits on the market that can be used without porting?

Nice job! Where can I donate a chain?

Good work! And a real man, leave the safety gear to the boys 😂

Good information.

super cool, but you need to go more into depth about the hole sizes. not percentages, but actual drill bit sizes so we can follow along. I don't plan on doing the porting or exhaust flange parts, i just want to do the muffler part. so what size hole and location would you suggest then? thanks in advance. also is a drill hole, or a slit made with a dremel better? Do you go through the 3 holes on the internal wall or just make the hole right in front of them?

W

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What size bit did you use to drill the muffler out with?

Great video keepe it up

the best video on the cs 2511 t !!!. how did you make that hole on the mufler ? thanks.

Hello! Thank you for this video! The header concept has been around for years...There is a museum in northern Van Isle with many old chainsaws in it, some of which have some wild muffler modifications, including spacers between the cylinders and mufflers. Is there a formula that can be derived for an optimum spacer? Similar to the volume calculation Iron Horse uses for his mufflers? I would be more than willing to fab up a few spacers, including ones that protrude into the muffler can itself. Just need an indication of where to start for length? Say on an 046/MS460?

Nice video, good tips. I was on the fence with max flow for similar reasons. Do you have a take on the k&n style, cold air intake velocity stack setups?

WHERE THE HELL IS YOUR HELMET

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NOTE-- That Zip-Tie?? RING-COMPRESSOR!! I've never understood how/why anyone bothers with hand-held ring compressors when you can use zip-ties, the fat type let you get 2 rings otherwise just use (2) zip-ties, the jug slides them downward off the piston (and you just snip them w/ wire-snips) This lets you seat you rings properly on the locator-pins and BE DONE with that, both hands free, to do your work (man I'm trying to imagine putting jugs on when 1 hand is holding a ring-compressor...no thanks....very surprised this zip tie trick isn't everyone's default!!)

Very cool 😎

You can use a Maxi setup but honestly they're just 2% more power and - of course - that's when brand new, the regular HD2 type in my setups, after hours' usage, is still WAY cleaner than an open Maxi type box, ergo it's flowing much higher than a Maxi by lunch... Foam is superior, but - especially w/ oiled foam filters - it blows my mind *anybody* would setup without ensuring nearly/completely sealed (screened/filtered) airboxes, I mean that form of media must just *attract* dust&dirt!

I should have mentioned in-video but if you don't have suitable rubber for easily crafting a new chip-flap to replace the OEM one, you can simply pull off the OEM flap, drill a new hole in it and mount it on the 1 lower hole, using the top hole as "a guide" for the tip-top of the flap, and now it's sticking out like 1.5" from the cover (so will need to cut/grind it down a bit, but this is a very easy flap upgrade if you don't have good rubber on-hand to cut-to-fit)

Awesome info

The 12oz Weaver bags are garbage compared to 14 and 16oz Notch bags, the latter is great when there's vines otherwise I use the 14oz, always with 1/8th Weaver polyprop line and a good bike pump to pressurize. Rear chamber is about 1.5' or 75% usual size, as - here in coastal FL - the trees aren't so tall so I don't need as much ooomph behind the shot, my smaller chamber pumped to a normal 80-100psi gets me *anywhere* I've ever wanted to go, with a grappling hook and air-cannon you can really get to some crazy places & do some crazy things!!

So awesome its done! Long live big- bores!

"Transfers are AT 110" = "transfer DURATION is 110deg", realize I misspoke it's not worth re-filming, transfers are opening at 125 giving 26deg of blowdown and having a duration of 110deg total-open-duration! Not a ton, for any cylinder, but not especially small either- and with this jug's exhaust & blowdown, that charge will rush from the transfers w/o impediment and the (lightened/ported) piston swings through BDC & begins suction for intake nice & smoothly before another BANG to begin again, powerstroke to a healthy 99deg opening, and 26deg later begins pumping that cylinder for another go >:)

As usual, any&all *constructive* criticism is sought, am still trying to seek who's making the hottest/strongest 2511t's to see how they're approaching things, obviously exhaust is the low-hanging-fruit but the entire induction stream up to the carb's bore seems ripe for modification, a close 2nd to the exhaust system IMO.

Love that one!

It certainly cuts fast now, and not as loud as your other one it seems

Update: Details are in Pt.1's Comments but the big bore porting was too much it's spewing some charge at TDC (high pressure spray, never seen it before), uncertain if it's too-wide exhaust port (my suspicion) or a touch of freeport but will address them both on the untouched cylinder, will still be taking this unit to a job on Thur to feel it out because it's still feels right enough despite a bit of oil on the muff that I'd rather not see, but the compression can be bumped so the Hyway pop-up is going in (with Stihl D-handle) and the new jug will be "tight" @TDC so will then have my "real build" done!

Update: Sadly it isn't "tight" at TDC, once it was broken-in a bit and I was doing gentle cutting it started to accumulate oil at the muffler that I didn't like, it definitely "had pressure" behind it that I've never seen, it's either from a lil freeport or a lil bit of non-sealing sides of exhaust-port, my suspicion is the latter, at any rate the compression was fine and aside from wasting some fuel (and surely stealing *some* charge from the engine function itself) it felt fine, will test it hard at a job on Thur but it needs the other big bore jug swapped-in, I've begun getting that ready and I have a 56mm Hyway pop-up piston (and Stihl D-handle) en route so on Fri or the weekend I'll swap in this other jug and the Hyway, bumping compression higher, eliminating the loss at TDC by both keeping exhaust port width to allow >10thou piston skirting coverage, and leaving at least ~10thou before freeporting, this latter is unlikely the bigger problem but I want both resolved (of course) and if my mapping & math are on point then this CAN be done in a way where I'm 10thou+ from freeport while still: - Having a fully flat squish band, - Having no more than 30-35thou squish clearance maximum (1 regular base gasket, no Moto, no decking just band flattening/polishing) and still fit the parameters (obviously it's still a lower-ring-only build, but that doesn't seem to be a problem in fact it may be desirable for performance despite being negative for longevity/reliabillity, kind of like how I use F.Tec rings during initial break-in and then swap in my Caber rings ;D Which reminds me I better do that before taking it w/ me on Thur >;D

Oh the purple on my Echo's here, that's RIT's "Dye More" product, sapphire blue color, it is colorfast here in FL it fades equally with the echo-orange, and works in ways paints never will....only caveat is you need to do it to fresh plastic, if there's scuffs/scratches the dye will amplify them :P Any visible gray is Motoseal, I use it as a 'paint' on the muff-cover's inside facing, and the clutch cover's muff-siding, holds up surprisingly well as a paint-on heat shielding (holds up better than their Red product)

Great video man! Really good information 🤙

Re fines and filter-sealing, I just noticed that it's easy-enough to put the air-box cover on "almost fully" and it still snaps shut at the lower latching, and even looks pretty perfectly sealed around the perimeter, but if you try swinging the lanyard ring fully upwards it doesn't snap-in 100.0% to the covering....if this happens your air filter will definitely NOT seat propely, it relies upon precise pressure from the outer cover, if you simply put positive pressure on the bottom portion of the filter-casing when snapping that bottom retention clip it seems to ensure full & proper sealing but still ensure the lanyard hook snaps upwards into the plastic fully & cleanly or that filter will not be sealed!

You make it look so easy!!!

ezvbcy #von.ong

One consideration/fear of swapping ONLY the piston, and not piston + cylinder, is that because this saw was custom built, with a cylinder whose base was machined to spec., the only way for me to "fit" a new piston is by altering squish via base-gasket height (thankfully it came with a large gasket, so there's some room to play, all the way down to a thin smear of Motoseal!), BUT this would effectively change the port-timing of all ports, changing it from "woods port" to "random-port" in a way! I'm sure "it'd work", but if it's smarter to just get piston & cylinder that are "known matching pair" then maybe that's smartest, though to lose this pro-ported cylinder would be a shame!!!