2511t Mod Tips (Timing Advance, Muffler, Limiters & More)

Not aiming to say what you should/should not do with your saw, and even with performance as the goal there's no, say, "optimal timing number" because 'it depends'!! But the act of altering timing, removing limiters, keeping your carb-intake perfectly clean, proper exhaust-system modification to get the cooler power you want without too-bad a loss to fuel economy, noise and a true power-gain unlike simple "high flow wide open" can mufflers, and a spark-plug-cover 'fix' that I'm surprised needs saying/doing but it does!

[@joescissorhands141]

Re fines and filter-sealing, I just noticed that it's easy-enough to put the air-box cover on "almost fully" and it still snaps shut at the lower latching, and even looks pretty perfectly sealed around the perimeter, but if you try swinging the lanyard ring fully upwards it doesn't snap-in 100.0% to the covering....if this happens your air filter will definitely NOT seat propely, it relies upon precise pressure from the outer cover, if you simply put positive pressure on the bottom portion of the filter-casing when snapping that bottom retention clip it seems to ensure full & proper sealing but still ensure the lanyard hook snaps upwards into the plastic fully & cleanly or that filter will not be sealed!

[@TerrellWillams]

Good information.

[@joescissorhands141]

Oh the purple on my Echo's here, that's RIT's "Dye More" product, sapphire blue color, it is colorfast here in FL it fades equally with the echo-orange, and works in ways paints never will....only caveat is you need to do it to fresh plastic, if there's scuffs/scratches the dye will amplify them :P Any visible gray is Motoseal, I use it as a 'paint' on the muff-cover's inside facing, and the clutch cover's muff-siding, holds up surprisingly well as a paint-on heat shielding (holds up better than their Red product)

[@martini761hotmail.comjense3]

Great video keepe it up

[@PoplarMechanic]

Great video man! Really good information 🤙

[@joescissorhands141]

Poplar Mechanic!! THIS ^ guy's videos were who I was referring to as "getting it right but going the whole way", I believe you ripped yours down fully & ported yourself and then got another jug ported by someone else as well right? I'd love to know any #'s of what they did, IF I could've easily gotten to the jug I'd only have removed the gasket, maybe added a degree or two on the exhaust roof (or square it out if it's the usual echo-oval, make it more of a stihl-square!), am so hesitant/afraid of porting on lil 25cc ports!! Thankfully this unit's exhaust system is so choked-up that the OEM 1.45HP jumps up quickly just by un-choking it, usually you'd need to port a 25cc to get it near 2hp I mean my 355t comes stock at 2hp! Thanks for replying Poplar, your channel is epic I learned so much climbing, then splicing, then chainsaws, from your channel, you're doing it right man!!!

[@PoplarMechanic]

@@joescissorhands141 haha thanks man, ya I got my buddy Ian to port my echo, he did a much better job than me, but im definitely learing, and there is definitely simple gains to be had for most chainsaws, I don't know the numbers but he would tell me for sure! My 327 i feel is gonna be a beast, he did that one for me to but the intake boot split so im just sorta copying his techniques, not as easy as it looks lol

[@romanescalera7752]

the best video on the cs 2511 t !!!. how did you make that hole on the mufler ? thanks.

[@msteright]

super cool, but you need to go more into depth about the hole sizes. not percentages, but actual drill bit sizes so we can follow along. I don't plan on doing the porting or exhaust flange parts, i just want to do the muffler part. so what size hole and location would you suggest then? thanks in advance. also is a drill hole, or a slit made with a dremel better? Do you go through the 3 holes on the internal wall or just make the hole right in front of them?