Glad to help.

You have to check all you’re end play clearances as well as individual clearances between drums.

Thank you. If all was good before parking it, then all I would do is basic fluid and filter change. That’s it. While performing fluid change, visually inspect a few things. Mostly the vacuum line, make sure it’s not rotted. But all should be well.

If it’s the hight, you should be fine. As long as it’s not the thickness of the bushing that’s too thin. You need to check your backspacing to be sure, but should be fine.

@@r1ddl324 Thank you very much. That puts my mind to rest. The thickness is the same, so that's good. I appreciate the quick reply.

@@JohnSmith-wj2wd no worries, any other questions please feel free to reach out to me.

​@@r1ddl324 I appreciate it. I was wondering a few other things, if you don't mind me asking; -When I took the bushings out of the sealed packaging, some of the bushings looked as if they were a tad oxidized, or in some way a bit dirty. I see some webshop pics look very similar. Is this a normal thing? I had expected them to be absolutely pristine. -In the revision kit, one of the frictions has its material offset a tiny bit to one side. About 0.75mm. The teeth are still clear. Could this cause any balancing issues, or is that sort of shift neglegable?

@@JohnSmith-wj2wd as for the friction plates, depending on the brand, you will find those inconsistencies. It is fine and will not hurt anything. Some cheaper kits have those little quirks with there frictions. Always check your clearance for each clutch assembly. As for the bushings. They usually are always like that. You can actually mold bushings to what you want. As long as there is no rust on anything. A quick wipe with some WD-40 should clean them up. And remember to use lube on the brass side of them.

There are many correct ways to assemble a transmission. It all depends on your equipment and experience. When I first started building transmissions, I always followed the official manual. After years of doing these, you find ways to make them better, stronger and last longer. Shops that assemble everything dry with no pre-soak usually have a transmission dyno that they will break in the trans with. This step soaks everything before spinning anything. For those who don’t have a dino, but still install clutch plates dry, I do not agree with. I have done these for years and have my ways of assembling them. The book for this transmission says to soak clutches, assemble, then measure. This is perfectly accurate and I would suggest to do so if this is something new to you. I set up this type of transmission (and most transmissions) dry and set my tolerance (normally tighter on clutch packs) then I pre soak and re assemble. This helps achieve quicker (and stronger holding) shifts. Again, if this is your first build, I would definitely follow the official manual step by step, until you have a good grasp on these. Hope this helps. If there are any other questions, please let me know.

@@r1ddl324 Thank you very much for the explanation! It's really good to know that there isn't a one and only way to assembling them, which clears up a lot of confusion I had. In that case I am going to stick to the manual indeed. I also found an old C6 training handbook to study which I'm sure will help.

@@JohnSmith-wj2wd Happy to help. Absolutely stick to the manual. Once you have done a few, you will see where you can make them stronger and perform better. I would really consider getting the updated race and sprag for the rear of the case. This will not change anything for you for rebuilding, and it helps your transmission greatly.

@@r1ddl324 Can I ask one more thing? Last week I went to the place where the car is stored to check some stuff. I saw that the front pump seal appears to have been much more worn out during the last trip since there now was a very large puddle of transmission fluid underneath it. When I check the dipstick with a cold engine however, it still shows a fluid level high above the markings like it always does when cold. Question is, do you know if that is any indication whatsoever that any reasonable amount of fluid is still inside to do a proper warm engine check, or could the dipstick simply be at a spot where the fluid couldn't run out? I'm hoping to check the level with a warm engine so that I can still top it off before driving the car to the workshop. But at the moment I worry that simply running the engine idle will ruin the transmission before I get a chance to check the level. btw, all the parts are underway along with the durability upgrades. Really looking forward to rebuilding it.

@@JohnSmith-wj2wd depends on the size of the puddle. Also, was there fluid added last time you drove it? Check to see if fluid is rushing out while engine is running. If not, you should be fine. Run through the gears (park to reverse, neutral, drive and back) with your foot on the break. Then check again for leaking while engine running. How far do you have to drive it?

You need to set up all your clutches dry at first. That way you get all of your spacing correct. After, I soak the clutches for 10 min or so (until the clutches stop bubbling). Then build everything out. If your a builder that has a transmission dyno, you don’t worry about soaking the clutches, that happens on the dyno without damaging any components. That’s my take on how to do it. There are several ways to build a trans and all will work as long as you know what your doing.

That truck is most likely set up for towing. I would imagine there is a low (numerically high number) gear ratio in the rear end. Do you know what the ratio is (ie, 4.56, 4.11, etc)?

@@r1ddl324 yes it has a 4:10 rear end and it's 2wd

@@robertomorgano8176 has it always run like that? And how long have you had it?

@@r1ddl324 it has always since I bought it, but with that I've only owned it about 3 months and have only driven around 100 miles. Not sure what it did with previous owner

@@robertomorgano8176 most dually setups run like that from that time era. They are meant for towing. You can put a numerically lower gear in the rear end and that will change your overall top speed and rpm. If your not towing heavy loads constantly, I would look into putting 3.55 gear in the rear end

Check the vacuum modulator and vacuum line to it, also check the shift linkage. If neither of those are the issue, it is most likely the forward drum piston seal. They go bad and fail, leading to no forward. You have 3 clutch packs in the C6, reverse - forward - low/reverse. A broken input planetary could also cause the problem but not likely from what you are telling me. The plunger on the side your referring to is the servo piston. This is important and you need to right one. There will be a letter code on the cover for it, that will let you know what servo you need to purchase.

@@r1ddl324 thanks...... i am thinking that i might try to put all new seals from the forward drum and see if that cures my problem....like i said it WAS STRONG....... and operated great ? plus a few other goodies added ....it that works and it operates.....well good ...if not i`ll do a complete. sure appreaciate the info !

@@r1ddl324 the more i think of it....the more i think its the forward drum,

@@larry-ev5sw that’s what it sounds like to me, usually the culprit when forward goes out all the sudden but still have reverse.

yep.....i have had some other people tell the same thing..... FORWARD CLUTCH .

This one was 1973 Yes they are the same

Email me [email protected]

@@r1ddl324 Yahoo won't send, claims on valid email ?

@@r1ddl324 I removed the period after Matt and sent it, ??? Let me know if that works 👍

Southern California

@@r1ddl324 I'll be in Arizona in November, if I can milk the car that long, I need a new Flex & torque conv. & valve body cleaning. Can you do that for me ?

⁠@@jackwild1111 just let me know

@@r1ddl324 hey do you have the same number

@@r1ddl324it’s dannica..

Try adjusting the vac modulator. There is a set screw inside where the vac hose attaches. All the way in is later shifts, opposite is shifts very soon at lower rpm. Also, check seals at modulator and replace if needed

@@r1ddl324 much appreciate super fast reply 🙌 did all of this I played with adjustment screw after replacing modulator still no shift to 3rd

@@r1ddl324 maybe I need to do bigger range screw adjustments to see if makes difference I think I did 2 turns in both directions which didn’t help

@@tomsky gotcha, I would try maxing it out each way and see. Also, you have checked the vacuum itself correct? If this does not work, then it could be a couple different things to chase down. Let me know how it goes.

@@tomsky and thank you, I’m here to help as much as I can

Cheaper than a car ... Oregon to texas

Southern California

Riverside County, Southern California Company name Precision Engine and Transmission

You are more than welcome to download them, I think you can do that from here. If not let me know and we can figure something out. Thank you, I love building them. I just don’t get to fill them that often. I also need to get better at filming the process, I tend to miss talking about certain things and also need to get better video angles. I am trying to record the next one, but I’ve been so busy. It takes a lot of time to record the process, then it puts me behind schedule.

The servo applies the band inside the transmission

Sorry to hear that, and yes I do It is [email protected]

Also looks like you stacked 2 clutches together on low reverse. Did you sand material off like you did with other clutches?

I would run the C6. Less potential problems and easy upgrades. But it all depends on what vehicle it is going in.

I agree completely. These vids were my first, planning on doing more but just extremely busy right now. I'm getting a few cameras set up for the next one.

@@r1ddl324 Nice. Look forward to it. Thank you again !

It's called Assembly Lube, made by Lube Gard. There are others like Dr. Trans, etc. The color is the tack or thickness. I use blue and green. Blue for seals and green for bushings (blue is lighter and green is heavier).

@@r1ddl324 Thank you Kindly. Keep up the great work ! Regards from Sydney, Australia.

It's really not that hard, just need a good teacher.

Thank you I would check all lines going to transmission, especially at the rear vacuum modulator. Also, sounds like there is a problem with the selector rod in the valve body. Was the transmission rebuilt recently? If so, possible that the valve body bolts are too tight, very easy to do. Also check the parking pawl action, might not be working properly, could also be a bad converter. There are multiple things that could cause those issues, but I would start with those. Most likely not just one thing but 2 or 3 things at once giving you the issues. Hope this helps

@@r1ddl324 Thanks very much for the reply. I will start by what I can see externally and then open her up and check out valve body. I've never done work on trannys before. I'm not sure if the tranny was ever replaced, I'm trying to do a revival on this car....sat for 20 years. I got the engine freed up and running, drove it 60 feet, then put a rebuilt carb on it and this tranny problem started. I was hoping it was something simple. Some people suggest seized forward clutch plates. Thanks again for your comments!

@@davidlinkletter6868did you go through it? Probably needs a good look and refresh

@@jamesmedina2062 needed a full rebuild. the forward cluthes were shot

@@davidlinkletter6868 Gotcha. You probably did did more than just that huh? Did you rollerize anything or just standard bushings?

I haven't been able to make a video on that yet, it's hard to set up a camera at the right angle to show it properly. Check out a channel called Automatic Transmission, I think he has a couple videos on it and he is really good as well.

1973 C6 for a Lincoln Continental, engine size 460ci