Tips and whatnot for the Ford C6 Transmission

[@0lddragracer426]

A valuable "Tips" video for the C-6. Thanks....

[@fmerkl]

that front 3 pinion aluminum lives with 3000 hp in my 6 sec 205mph Top sportsman car !

[@jamesmedina2062]

You are doing things right! There is a lot that goes into living at that level.

[@TheHilmar59]

Great video

[@sandi7943]

Good job 👍

[@lornequinn462]

Hi, my name is Lorne, I live in the province of Newfoundland and Labrador, Canada. I have several manuals, watched ever so many videos. I’m never quite satisfied with my first c6 build. I’m planning to take it a part and go over it. I found your presentation to be the best so far. Your attention to detail is very good. ? Do you have a video on the bushing install. Thanks

[@gorybonghit3211]

Smart dude for sure

[@jamesmedina2062]

Hey boss, you are the c-6 wizzz! I need to know if my C-6 was rebuilt and ran good from 2005-2008 and then parked in the desert garage for 15 years what should be done if anything before running it? It is not leaking fluid anywhere.

[@r1ddl324]

Thank you. If all was good before parking it, then all I would do is basic fluid and filter change. That’s it. While performing fluid change, visually inspect a few things. Mostly the vacuum line, make sure it’s not rotted. But all should be well.

[@JohnSmith-wj2wd]

1:16 Got a question about the larger drum bushing. I had ordered a rebuild kit on ebay that had this one in there damaged. A replacement bushing was sent to me which is about 3mm lower than the original one, which was 31.4mm tall. The replacement is 28.3mm tall. Is that height difference going to be an issue or would that fit just fine?

[@r1ddl324]

If it’s the hight, you should be fine. As long as it’s not the thickness of the bushing that’s too thin. You need to check your backspacing to be sure, but should be fine.

[@JohnSmith-wj2wd]

@@r1ddl324 Thank you very much. That puts my mind to rest. The thickness is the same, so that's good. I appreciate the quick reply.

[@r1ddl324]

@@JohnSmith-wj2wd no worries, any other questions please feel free to reach out to me.

[@JohnSmith-wj2wd]

​@@r1ddl324 I appreciate it. I was wondering a few other things, if you don't mind me asking; -When I took the bushings out of the sealed packaging, some of the bushings looked as if they were a tad oxidized, or in some way a bit dirty. I see some webshop pics look very similar. Is this a normal thing? I had expected them to be absolutely pristine. -In the revision kit, one of the frictions has its material offset a tiny bit to one side. About 0.75mm. The teeth are still clear. Could this cause any balancing issues, or is that sort of shift neglegable?

[@r1ddl324]

@@JohnSmith-wj2wd as for the friction plates, depending on the brand, you will find those inconsistencies. It is fine and will not hurt anything. Some cheaper kits have those little quirks with there frictions. Always check your clearance for each clutch assembly. As for the bushings. They usually are always like that. You can actually mold bushings to what you want. As long as there is no rust on anything. A quick wipe with some WD-40 should clean them up. And remember to use lube on the brass side of them.

[@MrFredsAdventures]

Five case configurations I believe.

[@jimmykrackorn8076]

Before my C6 shifts it tries to lock up and then releases when I let off the throttle. I cleaned valve body (truck been sitting for a while) but same result. New Vac mod, .... Kick down not hooked up... A real head scratcher for me. Any ideas sir,???

[@TheManusimpson31]

Hello @r1ddl3 and thank you for this awesome video. I own a 1971 Ford LTD with a C6 transmission. I noticed when it's cold it will shift in reverse perfectly but won't shift in Drive. I put the gear selector in D and the car simply doesn't move. Once the car is warm, it doesn't appear to have this problem! Also: when parked for a long time (around a week), there is a huge leak in transmission fluid. But when the car is hot, it shifts and runs perfectly. Very smooth and the liquid is cherry red. Do you recommend a full rebuild? OR simply the valve body and pump? Many thanks,

[@davidlinkletter6868]

great video. My c6 in my '69 Merc Monteray won't shift from Park to any other gear with engine running, but shifts through gears fine with engine off. If I start the engine in Neutral, and then shift to Drive, it works, but stays in Drive no matter what gear I put the selector in. Any ideas? FYI, external linkage appears fine. Thanks again for your videos

[@r1ddl324]

Thank you I would check all lines going to transmission, especially at the rear vacuum modulator. Also, sounds like there is a problem with the selector rod in the valve body. Was the transmission rebuilt recently? If so, possible that the valve body bolts are too tight, very easy to do. Also check the parking pawl action, might not be working properly, could also be a bad converter. There are multiple things that could cause those issues, but I would start with those. Most likely not just one thing but 2 or 3 things at once giving you the issues. Hope this helps

[@davidlinkletter6868]

@@r1ddl324 Thanks very much for the reply. I will start by what I can see externally and then open her up and check out valve body. I've never done work on trannys before. I'm not sure if the tranny was ever replaced, I'm trying to do a revival on this car....sat for 20 years. I got the engine freed up and running, drove it 60 feet, then put a rebuilt carb on it and this tranny problem started. I was hoping it was something simple. Some people suggest seized forward clutch plates. Thanks again for your comments!

[@jamesmedina2062]

@@davidlinkletter6868did you go through it? Probably needs a good look and refresh

[@davidlinkletter6868]

@@jamesmedina2062 needed a full rebuild. the forward cluthes were shot

[@jamesmedina2062]

@@davidlinkletter6868 Gotcha. You probably did did more than just that huh? Did you rollerize anything or just standard bushings?

[@tomsky]

Trying to find why my c6 doesn’t go to 3rd gear replaced modulator vacuum hoses ok still doesn’t shift

[@r1ddl324]

Try adjusting the vac modulator. There is a set screw inside where the vac hose attaches. All the way in is later shifts, opposite is shifts very soon at lower rpm. Also, check seals at modulator and replace if needed

[@tomsky]

@@r1ddl324 much appreciate super fast reply 🙌 did all of this I played with adjustment screw after replacing modulator still no shift to 3rd

[@tomsky]

@@r1ddl324 maybe I need to do bigger range screw adjustments to see if makes difference I think I did 2 turns in both directions which didn’t help

[@r1ddl324]

@@tomsky gotcha, I would try maxing it out each way and see. Also, you have checked the vacuum itself correct? If this does not work, then it could be a couple different things to chase down. Let me know how it goes.

[@r1ddl324]

@@tomsky and thank you, I’m here to help as much as I can

[@boblemay6539]

Hi How you doing? My name is Bob Lemay, I live in Ct.. I'm about to rebuild my c6, it's out of my '77 f150. I have 2 c6s, one that came out of the truck, one I bought with a spare engine. I have many questions, even though I've read a rebuild book, and have watched countless videos. I'll start with a general one, I think the three major critical clearance areas, are the two drums that hold the clutches and steels measured at the snap ring, then the overall end play after everything has been put back. Is this correct? I ordered a rebuild kit from performance automatic, their pro max kit, and a lower ratio forward planetary with Torrington bearings from CK trannys. Hope to hear from you, great videos that actually have detailed explanation as to what you're doing and why. Bob

[@r1ddl324]

Hi Bob, Yes those are correct. As for overall endplay, you want to check rear output shaft, there are shims you can get for the adjustments in certain areas (get the metal ones, not plastic). Depending on what you want to do with the truck will determine your clearances for your clutches. If you have any questions, don't hesitate to ask. The C6 is one of the easier transmissions to rebuild, your manual will be your best friend for most of the build.

[@boblemay6539]

@@r1ddl324 thx for the quick reply! the good thing is that I'm able to start by dismantling one of the c6s, using it as a practice run. I'll then rebuild the other one for real. no problem so far with the teardown, just document every step, and put all small pieces parts into corresponding plastic baggies, with the step number written on them. Also pictures of every step, as to how and directions of everything that came apart. Bob

[@lornequinn462]

Where would I find your video on bushing installation

[@r1ddl324]

I haven't been able to make a video on that yet, it's hard to set up a camera at the right angle to show it properly. Check out a channel called Automatic Transmission, I think he has a couple videos on it and he is really good as well.

[@0lddragracer426]

I thought I read where the race is hardened steel, and carbide has trouble getting through it, to cut it down for the torrington bearing. I'd like to rollerize my c6 as much as I can. Could you help me with some suggestions and point me in the right directions please? If I can go to the 6 pinion sprag, which lowers 1st gear ratio and get it for a decent price, I think I'd like to try it. Any thoughts on that?

[@r1ddl324]

Race and Torrington you can get from any good parts suppliers, also get the E40D roller sprag (it's a one piece sprag and you don't need the two snap rings to hold it in). As far as the input planetary, there are a few makers and they are all well built, any major brand will do

[@0lddragracer426]

@@r1ddl324 Is it the 6 gear forward planetary that lowers low and second gear?

[@r1ddl324]

@@0lddragracer426 there are many different front planetary setups you can use. There are 3 and I believe up to 6 pinion planetaries that were used and still retain stock gear ratios. There are some companies that sell the upgraded planetary setups that will allow a lower 1st and 2nd gear. Try ATI Performance, they might have something your looking for.

[@0lddragracer426]

@@r1ddl324 Thank you...

[@Louis-kk3to]

Don't go over bord w/ those bushings ,,, replace ONLY the ones that needs replacing OK , IT WILL SAVE YOU MONEY AND YOUR CUSTOMER $ JUST SAYING ,I'VE BEEN REBUILDING AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSIONS 45 YEARS TRUST ME ,,THANKS FOR YOUR VIDEO AND TIME TO SHOW THE GUTS OF THE FABULOUS C-6 👍 hint ,,,the purple stripe modular will do good with almost all c-6 units .

[@jackwild1111]

Where are you located ? I need the c6 in my 69 Lincoln Mark III worked on 🆘

[@r1ddl324]

Southern California

[@jackwild1111]

@@r1ddl324 I'll be in Arizona in November, if I can milk the car that long, I need a new Flex & torque conv. & valve body cleaning. Can you do that for me ?

[@r1ddl324]

⁠@@jackwild1111 just let me know

[@sandi7943]

@@r1ddl324 hey do you have the same number

[@sandi7943]

@@r1ddl324it’s dannica..

[@briansanford3715]

what should the clearance be between the pump gear and pump housing on the od of the gear?

[@r1ddl324]

No more than 0.003 Also, make sure you do not have any clearance issues with the pump gear teeth hitting the crescent divider in the pump body as well. There are multiple modifications you can do to the pump body, but most are for higher HP applications.

[@briansanford3715]

@@r1ddl324 Thank you sir

[@r1ddl324]

@@briansanford3715 any time

[@0lddragracer426]

@@r1ddl324 Can you explain the pump modifications for say high performance street? Thanks...

[@colewilliams3597]

Simpler terms used please?

[@TheProchargedmopar]

👍💪