I wish I did! I was there at about 6:30 am. NOTHING was open. I had to hit the road shortly after filming that video.

@@djentlemanjoe5198 Believe it or not my partners and II almost bought the place back in 2000. After 6pm that place gets slammed full. Mostly Feds partying after work.

@@djentlemanjoe5198 on the drive out there from the airport the dirt road seemed so long and for a few minutes I thought I was about to be whacked and dumped out there. 🤪

lol right I would have been plugged something back into the wrong thing I swear 😂😂😂😂

Thank you for the support! I appreciate it a lot. I’ve actually sort of rebranded and started a second channel JoesGunplaGarage I’ll have a new video going up today about the RG 2.0 and I’ll be filming a destroy Gundam ASMR build today ;) but that’s a secret. No one knows that’s coming.

yes it did! They where the fiberwerx TT bedsides and fenders.

No.

It’s easier to cut the box and do it

tell me about it, I can't build enough to get through it. Thank you for the view! and happy building :)

@@djentlemanjoe5198 the build for freedom mgsd is not complicated until the wings. I almost broke a few parts.

@@unboxingjer2138 Im not surprised, the Freedom wings have always been a little complex.

Thank you!

It's a very old lift kit from Fabtech and has long been discontinued unfortunately. There may be a few still floating around out there on ebay and such but last I checked the price of these kits went up to 9k.

Try removing the fan itself, this is fairly easy to do and could be an area where these critters made their nest. to get the HVAC "module" out you have to take the dash apart and disconnect the bolts from the firewall side, it's not an easy job. I have the LT trim so to get the dash out I had to remove seats and center console. Despite what some of the comments say on this video I don't see how else you can remove the HVAC module without a dash removal. Once the HVAC module is removed you can separate it and clean all the valleyways that air is supposed to move through. I would reccomend getting brand new blend door actuators, AC Evaporator and a heater core just because these trucks are so old there's a decent chance these will go soon and you don't really want to have to touch this again.

Did you get it out? Was there a nest in the system?

Hey there! Thank you for the view and support. I would rate this kit about a 6 for difficulty it's pretty easy and doesn't have any super difficult techniques required to build. The plastic scrap that holds the piece of the model onto the runner is called a gate. there's lots of undergating on this kit and some that require the use of an Xacto blade to flushly remove from the kit piece. The bare minimum of tools you would need for this kit are some nippers I'd reccomend the Tamiya straight blade nipper, some precision tweezers, an Xacto knife and either sanding sponges or the gunprimer eraser gate remover. Mecha warehouse has a tip video on the double cut method for gate removal so I would check that out. For me personally I like darker panel lines so I use the micron .003 marker for my lining. You can get this at hobby lobby or michaels and online. the tweezers would be used to apply the decals. Seeing as this is your first kit I was use this as a base and take your time, I used enamel paint to add a lot of details here but thats because I have a steady hand with a brush and I find that technique to be easy. The hardest part about this kit is simply the size of it, It's a small kit and has a lot of small parts but with patience it shouldn't be so bad. Feel free to ask any further questions and welcome to the large world of gunpla!

@@djentlemanjoe5198 thanks for putting your time into that, appreciated very much waking up seeing this reply, this'll be my first time to actually dedicating my time to building something so this'll be something and seems like it will test my patience with the smaller parts. How do you know when to use the .003 marker

@@djentlemanjoe5198 also just went to see the decals for this kit have all preorder slots full and bandai's release date it Mar 2023 😭 Do you know any good substitute decals for this one?

@@epistarter1136 I almost never use Bandai decals if I don't have to. Bandai decals typically require both Setter and Softener to stay on a kit and sometimes they still can curl up and flake off. Delpi decal and G-rework are my go to for decals. Mecha Warehouse put in a big order for RG god gundam decals through delpi so I'd watch their site and see when the stock hits.

That is the High Grade Future Century Master Gundam and Fuunsaiki.

No sir! It's very easy and intuitive. I think the RG Crossbone was harder than this.

Thank you for the view and the comment! I appreciate the support. I used black for this build. I typically always use a micron .003 pen for my panel lines as I find it to be the easiest. I use the Tamiya panel line wash for those super small details like the mouth vent.

Thank you so much!

My bezel didn't have a name on it. No BARB :( GOBBLESS