You explained this just fine. Thanks.

Waiting to see the final output

Absolutely terrifying. I love it

Um

I'm in love 💕

Looking forward to the technology you will be bringing to your techno bear. 🤗

Is that Freddy Fazbear

Hey everyone, I need some help! I’m trying to update the firmware for Marlin on my 3D printer, but it’s not working. I’ve downloaded the firmware, configured the files, compiled it, and copied the .bin file to a FAT32 formatted SD card. However, all that happens is the printer writes the EEPROM.DAT file, but it doesn’t actually update the firmware. Has anyone else experienced this? Any advice would be greatly appreciated! Thanks in advance! ==================================== Hola a todos, ¡necesito ayuda! Estoy intentando actualizar el firmware de Marlin en mi impresora 3D, pero no está funcionando. He descargado el firmware, configurado los archivos, lo he compilado y copiado el archivo .bin en una tarjeta SD formateada en FAT32. Sin embargo, lo único que ocurre es que la impresora escribe el archivo EEPROM.DAT, pero no actualiza el firmware. ¿Alguien más ha tenido este problema? Cualquier consejo sería muy apreciado. ¡Gracias de antemano!

this component has waisted over 40 hours from my life, it refuses to work. Even when referring to multiple sites & docs.

So I am bored and without much to do and I came across some small boards that I think I got at a yard sale or something…one of them is an ESP32-SOLO-1 “Espressif (maybe espressia)” I’m curious to know if there’s really anything I can do with it like? It looks like there’s an 8pin connector along the bottom of the bell shaped board…please reply any insight or suggestions.

How to contact you

Should see my RGB setup and projects . Respect for any female who knows how to solder🎉

2.1.2.4 has now changed a load of visual items detailed in this video!

How long do you need to hold down the boot

Seriously 😮

I'm sure the information in this video is great but the darn music was just too much for me to maintain focus. Keep music to intros and stuff.

The code presented by TechWithRita works well and is simple. I'm relatively new to Arduino programming -- but not that new and in the middle of a fairly complex build requiring 4 OLEDS. I've tested (and tested) multiple approaches from other recognized Arduino training experts, and this training Video is the best! Thank you TechWithRita.

Great video but you need to kill the annoying background music. It drowns you out and its just not needed.

No offence but you seem pretty hopeless at explaining tech stuff, but you look fantastic on camera. Do you have an onlyfans? If you do please send me a link, if you don't could you change that and again, send me the link. Ok coolies love you byeeeeee

I want it CCTV camera

Oh my god wanna hear you talk but the music is irritating.

C has to be interpreted as well. Python is just a higher-level language compared to C. Much like a scripting language. That is why it takes up more space, runs slower and has more to interpret before getting to machine language (which technically is binary) but there is a language that is used before that, which is Assembly. Thats what compiling does, it gets the "more-human-friendly" language, down to something the hardware can use, along with all the fun hardware specific stuff. Also, the resistor isn't always just to protect the LED, which in most cases you won't need one if you are just running the board off a USB port and a single LED on an output pin. The second use for the resistor is as a Pull-Up or Pull-Down resistor and you should ALWAYS be in the habit of using these. Otherwise, you can leave your output floating. It's very easy to use one, just connect a 10k resistor from the output (The output pin you set in Arduino) to a ground, and this will tie the line LOW when not in use. This will stop it from floating and its good practice because not all hardware has internal Pull-Up or Pull-Down resistors. PS. your video wasn't horrible, most of the female tech videos are, facts....

Thank for this been tearing my hair out over this programmed it once then could not reprogram it now I can thank you again.

You are so beautiful Rita

Is it working for EZT3D T1 printer? I am looking firmware for it. Windows 10 64-bit.

Just found your channel and I love your content, the videos are concise yet exhaustive enough for beginners to get started !

Hi Rita! I have a question. If I connect a single SSD1306 display, it shows clear and continuous text. But when I tested your program with two screens, the text is displayed as pixelated, as if the vertical lines on the screen were separated. Some ideas? Thanks in advance

Thanks Rita! With you, the technology is more nice🤗

I tied this and when I got to the build part it kept failing.

🤠🤠🤠

Thanks for the knowledge

Very well explained, as an old computer engineer I love to see new a new generation pick up the baton. One small gripe, the deliberate video hiccups give me a headache but I guess that’s me being an old fogey. Anyway, well done!

Thank you!!! This is one of the most direct and reliable vids in updating Marlin!

That is so cool. Have you ever did any projects with infrared circuits? By the way, hope you do more vids. Your voice is SO SOOTHING and your explanations are really straight forward and ez to follow along with. God bless

It's impossible to concentrate, either I see the project or I see her

was looking for the battery charge/control functions but good vid

11:59 she farted kekw jk but this was helpful, the firmware autobuild, clicking of that file, downloading, wiping all SDcard contents, and placing the sole .bin file on there was very helpful... can't tell you how many videos I tried to come across for this information

ATTENTION: The "cool down" feature DOES exist, I didn't see it at the bottom of the menu at the time (sorry!), and didn't think to scroll down. My apologies! Just know that it only pops up / reveals when the printer is in a "preheating" state. The "Cool Down" menu option will be in the same location as "Preheat PLA / Preheat ABS" but it won't show until after the printer is heating, and it will be at the very bottom of the menu.

What if my chips say 32f303 and not 103

Thank you so much! As a complete beginner with firmware, your simple but straightforward video was perfect and literally saved my mental sanity!!!

ur face is annoying please show the thing u work on no one wants to see ur face

Ok. You are very cute, but if the end result is a thermal runaway you shouldn’t be teaching how to update firmware, 200 C on the bed and nozzle can burn your house down.

Like a Hannah Barron but for tech instead of giant catfish

I’m so frustrated, I get all the way through this and it says “mega2560 failed”. I literally just want to throw out this printer.

I followed all your step but it look like Visual Studio Code and the Marlin ext changed because ABM is not there anymore, any advice?

between trying to code, smoking pot and watching an intermittent spotty video (Max headroom style), I found myself walking funny before I did a reset.

Thanks for the video. Honestly, I have not had the issue of not responding to temperature changes during printing or after preheating, and I can send the M104 to set the hot end and M140 for bed. Not sure why yours was giving issues. Hopefully you've solved it by now, being a year or so later.

Your explanation is very simple yet elegant that anyone can understand easily. Amazing Rita 😊

Do you know about image detection?