That's OK.

Well I tried it two ways. First I tried a diagonal cut going about half way through teh stem and then used a piece of spag moss to keep it open. This I wrapped in cling film filled with perlite which is my prefered stem cutting medium. However after several months no roots appeared. I then opened it all up and this time cut a section of the camden layer all the way around, maybe 1cm long. This time I wrapped it in film but used spag moss as you can see in the video. I can't remember how much longer it was before I noticed the roots but it was at least 3 maybe 4 months. I gave up looking after a bit but as you can see the roots are long to they must have been developing for a while. Basically bark the stem all around, wrap in moss, wrap in cling film, wrap in foil, then wait a long time. Just wanted to see if it would work to be honest.

Must be a break in one of the wires somewhere. They can be really difficult to find. Can sometimes find it with a DC non-contact probe but that will only work if you could pull enough cable out of the bulkhead on either end.

@@davideickhoff2954 no I've never used vermiculite in either adult carnivorous plant compost mix or in seedling or rooting mix. My only experience with vermiculite, which has coloured my view of it, was way back when I was a teanager at home with my parents and I found a bag of it in the shed which had been wet for a bit and just turned into this brown sludge. That's put me off it since it does degrade over time, where as perlite does not and so maintains it's ability to help lighten and aerate the compost keeping it open and free draining. That is good for sarracenia compost but more important for nepenthes given they like damp but not wet roots.

I'm sure when I bought mine, which was a while back now, the only choices where which crank set you were going to use and what bottom bracket type you had, nothing specific to the bike manufacturer. So as I wanted to upgrade to Shimano Hollowtech and my frame was a BB30/PF30 I went for this one 68-3001R. The different sizes between the BB30 (mine) and PF30 are accounted for by a sleeve included in the kit. I guess the only other difference maybe road or MTB, mine is road hence the 68 in the part number which is the 68mm frame width. Hope that helps.

Maybe, maybe not. If you get bored simply skip forward, that's what the timeline and chapter markers are for.

Sadly not. I thought I had found suitable replacements in the Wheel Manufacturer CN-R081 cones, however despite looking virtually identical and being very close to within a fraction of a mm they did not work and quickly failed, see this video kzbin.info/www/bejne/rpjJppWveNOHjsk In that video I also went over a few other things I tried to try and get a better fit by adjusting the ball bearing sizes, but again that did not work. My conclusion was that for the cones to work they had to be exactly as per the bearing was originally designed, differences in diameters or lengths to even a fraction of a mm would result in the cones either just not working or wearing out really quickly. This was why in the end I opted to buy myself a nice new set of Scribe carbon wheels with standard sized and easily available sealed cartridge bearings. Now it’s possible that Specialized used different hubs over the life of the Axis 1.0 wheels and so there may be alternatives, but I found no obvious evidence of that. Really disappointing.

@@davidb5255 ah right, I wonder if Axis wheels went bust? Specialized said they couldn't help as it's a third-party OEM. Looks like I will also be buying some nice new wheels!

@@Christubeopher well personally I can recommend the Scribe carbon wheels, I have another video of how the ones I bought compared to the Axis wheels I replaced. They also do some alloy ones as well. Excellent company and really nice wheels.

The beauty of KZbin is that you can skip past any part of a video if you are not interested in the specifics of maybe how the circlips fit in a Specialized Sirus frame or if you know how to preload a bearing, there is no obligation to watch it all start to finish, I rarely do for other videos. Personally I'd rather have a more detailed and longer video than a fancy scene fade from parts on the garage floor to fitted in the bike in 5 minutes without knowing the crucial step half way through. And 24 minutes was a lot quicker than it actually took in real life! Things are much quicker if you have done it before and know what you are doing, neither of which I had.

Sorry but I don't know which clone it is, I bought it from a really good seller on ebay who I have bought the majority of my Nepenthes from. He has some really good plants he takes cuttings from and also does his own crosses.

Wow good question, to be honest I don't know, I've not got anything I could use to measure it. The humidity mostly comes from the small (< 5mm) amount of water I keep in the trays most of the time, although I do let that dry out between waterings. On rare occasions I might mist the leaf tips of the odd plant to encourage the trap formation, but that is only if I remember which I don't tend to. So whatever the humidity is the plants seem happy enough with it that they grow well and trap pretty consistently.

@@davidb5255 Either way, that’s awesome. I have my nepenthes in my homemade greenhouse, a controlled environment, humidity constantly around 80 percent. From so many sources saying at least 60 percent. But they higher humidity the better. I saw a video of a guy growing lowland nepenthes OUTSIDE. I asked him how he’s done that and he replied he lives in the Philippines. Well that’s easy enough, that’s where they come from. Cool!

For humidity I think if you asked 10 different people you would get 10 different answers. Ultimately the real answer depends on the species or hybrid you are growing and where they would live naturally, i.e. lowland, intermediate or highland. I doubt I get more than 60% humidity but so far the ones I have seem to love it. It's possible there is one maybe two that don't pitcher as frequently as the others but that could just be variation in the vigor of the hybrid rather than too low humidity. When I first started growing carnivorous plants some 40 years ago I stuck to Sarracenia, Drosera and Pinguicula as back then the Nepenthes needed grow tents with 25+'C temperatures all the time and 80+% humidity, something I just don't have the space to accomodate. I think in recent years with Nepenthes popularity growing there are so many excellent hybrids which are tollerant to really wide ranges of temperatures and humidity that you can grow them quite successfully on just a windowsill, see #windowsillnepenthes as an example. Some of the ones I have, hamata as an example, I've heard varying comments on whether you can grow that on a windowsill with maybe not optimal conditions, but just look at mine, it's stunning, doing way better than I could have possibly hoped for. I think there is also an aspect of adaption, within reason, that Nepenthes are prepared to do and still thrive. Again this from what I have heard depends a lot on the hrybrid. BTW where do you live and what sorts of Nepenthes do you have growing in your greenhouse?

@@davidb5255 That’s awesome you’re growing a Hamata. It looks great. I’d love to have one someday. I kinda have limited space in my greenhouse, and I think they’re expensive. I’ll have to get a hybrid. I live in Illinois, I have three Gayas and one Veitchii x Mira x lowii. I was told they’re good intermediate, beginner plants. All of them under a simple shop light from Harbor and freight and they’re growing well.

@@DeadlyPlants2024 My Hamata was quite expensive, IIRC it was around £110 or approx 140USD, but well with it. Bought it with a load of others from Scottish Carnivorous Plants, that video is on my channel also if you are interested.

Thanks but no chance I'll swap, especially my hamata! What do you have BTW?

@@davidb5255 Manley the same as you, but my nep's are a hell of a lot smaller

The garden center I bought it from many many years ago lied to me 😮 Worst still I've been telling people it's alata all this time when it's not. Thanks for pointing out my mistake, you are right I looked up the difference, Windowsill Nepenthes had a good video, this is indeed not alata. I'll be out with my labelling pen later to correct this.

They are not impossible to kill, however even if they look dead it's always worth leaving them for a bit just incase they do regrow from the roots.

@@davidb5255 well I got mine in the mail a couple days ago and it had green leaves but the stem/stock was brown and then they just all fell off expect two and now they are brown as well so I’m just trying to hopefully see if they will grow back from the roots so let’s hope and pray!

@@LesleeHutchison That does not sound good. If you don't mind me asking where do you live? Is it likely the plant has experiemced too colder temperatures or too hot? The leaves that have browned, did they show signs of mould? If they did I would cut them right down to prevent it spreading into the roots. That is what I did for mine that git frosted, see the linked video in the description.

@@davidb5255 you are right I had emailed the company it was “hirt gardens” or something from Walmart but I had sent them photos and they emailed me back and said that they definitely didn’t ship it like that and that it must have gotten to hot over transit I’m pretty sure it came from Florida and I live in Tennessee and I’m pretty sure the whole shipping from there to me was like 3 days? But I had just got some long fiber sphagnum moss with perlite mix and took it out and removed most of the soil and rinsed in a bowl of distilled water and I was checked the roots and they all feel pretty firm except one that came off but I don’t really know if that means anything yet but I rinsed the mix in distilled water as well and put it back under my grow light (I live in a basement with high humidity but I used grow lights) so I’m hoping I’ve done everything I can to help it maybe I should put a dome over it too for more humidity or is to much humidity a thing? I really do appreciate your comment tho now is just the waiting game and I’m hoping to update this one day with good news!

And no mold

I tend to stand them in ~5mm of water all the time in a propagator with the vents partly closed to raise the humidity a bit. 5mm prevents the perlite drying out but is open enough that the stem is not sat in water, the pots are also fairly tall. That said I tried one rooting strategy in which you put the stems in just clean water, they did not rot but equally well they did not show any signs of growing roots either even after 3-4 months so I gave up on that method.

@@davidb5255 thanks for the reply. I’m currently trying the just water method & am having the same problem. I’ll definitely try perlite. Thanks again.

@@everfreebrumby8385 Even with perlite they do take several months to root. Don't be tempted to dig them out until the bud develops leaves at least 2-3 inches long if not longer. I've had one cutting on the go for 4-5 months and only now is the bud even thinking about shooting, forget any leaves!

@@davidb5255 thanks again.

Hi, to free the hub from the wheel you need an 11mm hex key, ~1m34s into the video. Cheers

​Hi​@@davidb5255,for mi Allez E5,I have used Allen 16 mm Thanks.

Thanks for identifying the yellow flowered plant. I've not had a utricularia for a very long time, probably 30+years. I'll have to pick them out into their own pots, will need to lookup how you look after them as I'm out of practice.

Yes very much. A friend has also bought one and is really pleased with it. If the UniqueDisplay one held the falcon better I would suggest that as an alternative as it's base cost, before shipping, is less.

I guess it depends a bit on where you live, UK vs abroad, and if UK where abouts. I live not that far away from Evesham in the UK, there is a garden supply company there called Vale Gardens that still do bales of peat at a reasonable price, 100l for £11. Not sure what the delivery would be. Alternatively a quick search for UK found a place called Forker which had it for £17.50 including delivery. The other alternative is coir, never used it personally so would not be able to suggest a brand or even where to get it, I think you do need to be a bit careful with that to make sure its properly washed. A final alternative is pre-mixed compost from commmercial carnivorous plant suppliers, however I suspect that will be very expensive for a big planter, fine if you only have one or two plants to pot up though.

Glad it was helpful. The LEDs are not terribly difficult albeit a bit time consuming given the number of LEDs you need to solder together. My advice is make it as neat and regular as possible as the finished cube will look a lot better if they all line up.

That will probably work as well. I don't have a ready supply of spaghnum but I have plenty of perlite for general potting mix. I buy it by the 100 litre bag I get through so much.

@@davidb5255 it's all inert so it shouldn't be a big matter. I was just saying if you mix sphag w perlite it's easier to untangle roots and stretched the spahg. You can dry out your sphagnum and keep it to reuse. To expesive to keep buying it imo

Thanks that's very interesting. I've only ever had this issue with Darlingtonia, never Sarracenia. If you cut out the dead/dying then they usually survive but I did lose an entire plant once. I do get white feathery fungus or similar on Drosera seedlings and the compost which does seem to overwhelm them. I found out a bit late on the last lot that spraying with distilled water seems to knock it back really well.

Sorry but I don't know as I only have Android devices. I suspect the app is not sealable for iOS as it was only supplied for Android as a non-app store side loaded app package. Apple are quite picky about what apps are allowed on their store and prevent side loading.

I have a laptop as well. Please advise what the app would be so I can try that. Thank you very much. This was a gift with no instructions. I am really glad I found your video. Ross

In the description there is a link to the software bundle off Banggood. Inside that there is a Windows application in "SKU835176\3 8X8X8 light cube PC\3D8S_Alpha" which is mostly for designing new animations across the 8x8x8 layers but IIRC can also be used to select existing animations to run. You will need the PL-2303 USB to serial adapter connected from the computer to the programming interface of the cube. In that same software bundle are the drivers for thar adapter if your OS does not have them. The Windows app is less useful for general control as it has to be physically wired to the cube.

You are correct, my initial mounting position was wrong as there were no guides or mounting instructions on your site to say otherwise. I picked that location after studying some rear views of the Falcon you had in the photo gallery, however these were not that clear due to the landing feet getting in the way so I picked what I though was the most supportive location. If you jump to around 26:18 you will see the update I made to this video following the replies I received from you to my email queries. Specifically if you look around 27:36 I describe where it should be mounted and then show it with the Falcon remounted in that location. This does indeed fix the mini figure plinth gap which I then show later on however in my opinion this new mounting location is not suitable as it puts the whole weight of the Falcon on what I would consider non-load bearing structures. In fact the structure at the rear of the Falcon you suggest it should rest on is floating at the one end and so is pushed out of line. The gap between the stand and the back of the Falcon also still exists causing the stand uprights below the support arms to press on the underside panels, again pushing them out of place with the weight of the Falcon.

With regards the rear brace, I turned this around but it did not fix the issue of the brace rising up out of the side panel slot. I think I also tried swapping the two side panels, I can't remember now. I suspect that issue is due to the slots in the base not being vertical and so they don't hold the side panels vertical and the whole thing becomes a sort of parallelogram. Don't get me wrong I really wanted to like your stand, the mini figure plinth is by far the best of any stand I have seen. I also delayed posting the video till after I had made contact to give you a chance to respond just in case I had done something wrong or the stand I received was a dud. I then added an update section to the end of the video correcting my mounting mistake. However I still believe you have a significant design issues around where and how the stand supports the Falcon.

That's what I did, I went for the Wicked Brick stand, much better IMHO. See that review here: kzbin.info/www/bejne/b3mlc2mupq-FhLM

Hey, just checked your video after mounting. I agree with all your points and would probably prefer to pay more for the wicked brick stand (wish I'd seen this before!). Do you know how long it took for Unique Display to reply and what was the best approach for contacting them? Hopefully I can receive a refund on my item as I don't think it's fit for purpose, it's also cheeky they advertise the technic cutout leg holder but don't ship the acrylic out with that cutout on the piece! Thanks for the info

@@mitchbannon8816it's such a shame they did their stand the way they did as it looked so promising. I think I found a contract email on their website, maybe from a contract us page. If you can't find it let me know and I'll dig it out if my emails. IIRC they got back to me within about a week, although initially they said leave it with them to investigate after I sent a bunch of photos showing the initial issue of it not being mounted in the correct place. Then after they sent some photos back showing where it should be mounted I replied still not happy and they finally refunded me quite quickly, maybe another week. I finally bought the Wicked Brick stand, much better, see my other video for a review of that.

@@davidb5255 Thanks David, I contacted them through their website so hopefully hear back from them soon!

This video is misleading as the Falcon set is placed in wrong place 🤣@@davidb5255

Out of interest what make is that stand?

The stand is made out of Acrylic but it doesnt have a brand name or anything. But it works just fine

It's going to be an epic build, I timelapsed it down to 1h 45m from 19h 30m real time. Good luck.

I don't personally have a concern with the thickness of the Perspex/acrylic as that suff is pretty strong. Yes you can snap a strip of if, say the support brace, if you were to bend it but that's because its in tension on the bowed out surface which it is weaker in. The support arms have good depth to them to spread the load to the stand and for them all the force is in compression downwards, its compressive strength is much higher. Even better is that the Falcon sits hard against the back support which will take some of the weight of the Falcon off the support arms. I did not even have much of a concern about the Perspex/acrylics thickness/strength in the Unique Display stand (see my other video) even though the Falcons weight was more towards the ends of the support arms because it did not fit flush against the stand back. My biggest concern with that stands was the likelyhood of the Falcon coming off the support arms due to the minimal depth into the superstructure and also where the arms were placed, and so it ending up on the floor.

Thanks, glad you like them. I just love sharing my passion and facination for them. When I sell them at markets I just love chatting to people about them, whether they buy any or not. The best is when you get young kids coming along all wide eyed and enthusiastic, and thinking back that that was me many years ago.

@@davidb5255 Indeed. I totally feel the same way. I've given plants away to kids from my church and theyre completely into them now. These are moments they will remember for life and grow up appreciating sarracenia on a higher level.

To be honest I have never had mildew in a Sarracenia, botrytis (furry grey mold) sometimes but never mildew, either black or white. Botrytis is not usually a problem on the pitchers as its easily removed, if it gets into the rhyzome its more of an issue. I suspect those spots are just discolouration as the pitcher dried out, maybe from the insects inside. As I said in the video I tend to only cut the brown tops off the old pitchers down to the green alive part as they are still photo synthesising for the plant. Interestingly I always thought I was the odd one out as so many people seem to cut all the pitchers off to ground level, dead or alive. But yesterday there was a video from California Carnivoirs where he advocated exactly what I do and left most of the tops on, kzbin.info/www/bejne/pJfdmomnrcycpKc I had not even considered the benefit of leaving the dead traps on as a means to help protect the plants from frost. I only trim the dead off mine because in the UK we tend to get damp and modestly cold winters, not the crisp dry cold you get in some parts of the US. It's that damp cold that quite often encourages botrytis. Removing the fully dead pitchers keeps the crown more open and give better air flow to reduce the risk. Some pitchers I leave on as I just like the look, expecially the really tall ones, 30+", or the deep red ones as they keep their colour to some extent. The tall ones I often save, cut a slot down the side, clear tape it up and then take it along to markets where I sell my spares for charity just so people can see how good they are at catching things. People are always amazed that the pitchers can often be quite literally full to the top, I've even had some so full flies have been ablt to get out due to so many dead bodies in there.

@@davidb5255 I appreciate your repsonse David. I am still learning and your pitchers look just like mine when I clipped them. I seen most dead pitchers die back and look the same color brown all the way down, so when I saw all the spots that look like mold spores, I panicked. I just didnt want the mold to go down to the rhizome. Seeing your pitchers having the same spots all over gives me a little more comfort for next winter to leave them on from the green and down. As always, appreciate you being so friendly and informative.

Thanks. Been checking out some of your videos, you have some really nice Sarracenias. I love the dark coloured ones, especially the red ones, with the heavy veining. Your Leucos are lovely. Would have really liked it if you have captioned the names of the species in say your latest August greenhouse tour so I could go looking for some of the ones you had.

@davidb5255 thanks man, I will consider titling all future videos. But if you give me time stamps I'd be happy to give you any details you want!!

Hi, glad you liked the video. Personally I like to take the young Darlingtonia plants of when they have a few good roots to ensure that when their umbilical cord to the parent is cut they can survive. As such I tend to do it earlier in the year when its not too hot and so the plants are not stressed too much if they only have a few roots. It's usually quite easy to see when there are young plants which can be taken as they appear around the edge of the parent plants pot. If you carefully knock the parent out you will quite often find that the stolons have gone around the pot several times and then appeared. If the young plant does not have any roots I try and pin it down in the parent pot with a piece of bent wire to encourage it to produce roots before detatching it. Sometimes they grow up and out of the pot so don't get the stimulus to generate roots as they are not touching the damp compost. If there is no room I have sometimes taken the stolon runner out of the parent and pinned it down into a pot next to it, you just have to be careful when moving them as they are connected. Personally I don't take the young plants off the parent if there arn't any established roots as although they will probably produce roots it is a risk and any trap growth may suffer until the roots establish as there will be no effective water uptake. I have however taken stolon runners without any young plants growing off them out of parent pots and pinned them down in a separate tray to encourage the young plants to grow. That is how I got so many little Darlingtonia plants in the seed tray in the video, it was one or two long stolons which had gone around the parent pot several times. That I find works really well as there is no top growth to support so the stolon can take its time sending down new roots and sending up new growth points. Then its just a case of waiting until each of the new growth points have enough roots before separating it from the rest.

@@davidb5255 many thanks for such a comprehensive reply , that has really given me the confidence to tackle the darlingtonia. In fact a separate video on your success with darlingtonia would go down very well with carnivorous plant growers ! , many thanks David

@@terryw1795 Thanks for the suggestion, next time I pot up my Darlingtonia I will definitely make a video.

I don't give them any extra humidity from misting or similar, I just stand them in a windowsill tray which I always keep a few mm of water in, not enough that the compost is wet but enough to provide some ambient humidity. This seems to suit the ones I have both summer and winter. Also makes sure they never dry out.

Do you heat the propagator? During the summer I put my cutting in perlite in pots in a propagator in indirect sun in the greenhouse. In winter sometimes I just have them in a tray on a windowsill, not even bagged for additional humidity. Our house is not the warmest so I have wondered whether bottom heating would help speed up rooting. They do still mostly root but it can take a while. I potted up only yesterday some cutting taken in June this year, some had masses of roots others not so many, all had good strong growths though.