I've had my two TILTS for 6 + years. Work very well, but I notice one never reads quite as low F.G. as the other. I just note when they stop dropping points for about 3 days, and then consider the fermentation is done. I know there is a procedure for calibrating ,but I've not had good luck with that. I recommend TILT for the home brewer.

Hi what spray bottle are using for your starsan solution?

Just noticed your math/chemistry error. Correct is: H2 + O = H2O

I have watched a few arguing both sides. I am just getting started with BIAB all grain, but I have been around longer than most of you. Here is what I think. It depends what bag you have, and degree of crushing of grains. If using a bag with large holes then the fines are already in the mash/wort by the time you remove the bag, regardless of squeezing or not. If you have a fine filter bag that has held the fines in the bag as you remove it, squeezing may well force them out into the wort. Now there are some mistakenly arguing that squeezing the bag squeezes out tannin's which makes little sense to me to argue either way, since the tannin's are actually created from the fines AFTERWORD during the boil. Tannin's are not being squeezed out. Then there are those who say there are no tannin's being created after squeezing, which again makes no sense to me, since if there are fines being boiled, there will be tannin's. Then there are others who believe the tannin's are a good thing so squeeze your bag all you want. Then there is me, who is planning to use a fine filter bag(cloth), or regular filter bag(polyester or muslin), and not squeeze so as to retain as much of the fines as possible, but also because there is absolutely no need to squeeze. I plan to lift up the bag, sit it on a rack to drain into my kettle for maybe 10 minutes, then pour sparge water over the bag to get the rest of the wort out. Should drain fairly clear if done well. No need to squeeze your bag. Reasonable??? OK, so.... further, I do not think squeezing will get as much of the sugars/flavors out, as doing a pour over sparging and draining will. I am certain, that if I squeezed with all my might, risking rupturing my bag, I would still have sugars and flavors left in those grains, which still can be removed by pouring sparging water over them...so again, no point to squeezing. I have done extracts unrelated to brewing, but the principles are basically the same...except no tannin's.

Should do a caramel apple bochet mead in the igulu came out great

When not in use, do you leave the igulu on, or do you turn it off?

Thanks for the video otherwise I would never of got the clamp off! Can one use mild dishwashing liquid to clean barrel if no brewery cleaning solution?

Did the change in the cooling system for F1 and S1 impact the fermentation process or any other aspect of beer brewing, considering that the cooling system in S1 operates much slower than in F1?

it was really good!

I can't belive I'm here for a fanfic

I'm looking forward to seeing seeing you brew something in the Pot-Au-Brew

I’m interested in this system… I’m pretty inexperienced, have done several batches this year, all grain, ranging from a gallon to three gallons (final volume). Is there no worry about DMS with this technique? Does the pressure fermenting mitigate that risk? Or I’m missing something…

Great Video. Very helpful info. Thank you.

Can I harvest c02 from my pressure fermentation and use it later to dispense my beer along with the c02 naturally present in the keg conditioned beer?

I notice a cigar! Nice.

I use the splash method with great success. Actual process is running the cooled worth through a fine strainer as it goes into the fermenter. Also helps with catching any gunk coming from the kettle. 🍻

Great video!

I am looking forward to both Pot-AU-Brew tutorials and more Igulu videos

Currently waiting for my pre-ordered BrewTaurus PF75L and gathering every helpful piece of information out there. My main motivation is to move away from plastic containers and have a solid stationary fermenter that can be cleaned in place. And of course I really want to eradicate oxidation from my process, now that I have a completely oxygen-free transfer pipeline from the kettle to the fermenter and into the kegs. The carbonisation and time-saver aspect is not really that important for me, but I think I'll try it nevertheless (usually, I am team ALE). I heard that you can get nice results even with ales when you wait until the yeast is done 75 to 80 percent and then let the pressure rise to the final (keg) pressure. Does anybody have experience with that?

I bought one in July and love it and just bought the TC version last month:-). I liked your video too.

Cool show Brian! I hope Adam and Hopsology blow past expectations with success. It sounds like a great business model. It's sad to see the fallout of home brew. I think it's an instant gratification problem more than anything, too many people have near zero patience. Store beer and Ingredients have increased cost immensely over the last couple years with inflation but it's still 1/5th the cost to brew at home. This factor depends on volume per batch. If you brew 6-10 gallons at a time with a single yeast pitch (with starter of course) and harvest yeast, it's extremely cost effective. If you brew 1 gallon at a time, the ROI is not there. Nice shoutout to BYOB - definitely the best home brew shop and I shop there frequently. Evan and Thor are fantastic! 🍻

Looking forward to trying this (picked up a used F1 for myself for the holidays). I used to brew a long time ago but my wife made me sell my equipment when we had kids. Kids are older now and I’m getting back into brewing but slowly and liked the option to quickly experiment with the F1. Thanks for sharing

Is this system the 10L? What is the max fermentation volume post boil ? I’m looking at this product to replace my current 1gallon batch 12L Pot BIAB > fermenter > ukeg method. I’m curious if I wanted to maximize serving volume on occasion, I could just do my mash and boil in a separate larger vessel and then do ferm in this. What would max fermentation volume post volume be with that method?

To each is own

I’m sold! I have to buy another one !

I love my Pot-au-brew so much I already bought a second one. I’m 8 years into brewing, have a top of the line big system, and love having this for small batches. What really makes it special is it really is the only all in one system. So I never have to clean the mash tun, boil kettle, chiller or fermenter. When the beer kicks I just have to wash the keg - the PaB! In my sink or in the dishwasher. Again no clean up!! So I get the fun of a quick brew day for a few hours and that’s it!

Brewing small batches of beer is useless. Even, when it comes to preasure fermentation. Just my two cents.

Better than the Igulu?

Hellon thanks for the review. How is it working with stout type beer ? Does it have a bit of body and foam ? Thanks a lot

What a interesting lid. It reminds me of the mushroom culture jars for liquid cultures. You drill a hole and pop in one of those filters. Also you can just tape over 2-3 layers of micropore tape. Im going to try this at this week and see how it goes. Thanks for te inspiration.

To dry hop could you have maybe used a second keg and added hops to it then purging with co2 before transferring and treat it like a second fermentation? Or would it be to much moving of the beer since it’s already under pressure? Still learning all this home brewing stuff lol and thinking about starting to pressure ferment

Google cannot even find this lid on the internet so it must not be very popular. No link in your description either.

Can you just use less dry malt extract so you don’t have to use the 3 gallons of water to dilute your wort ? Just cool the wort with a chiller and ferment ? I’ve been reading it’s usually 1:1 ratio, 1 lb to 1 gal

Another great video looking forward to trying it my self. thank you for your inspiration.

Having bought an Fi1, the unit is nice, but the app is horrible. Master mode is installed on the unit. But the app says it's not. Also, it goes off and online several times a day

Thanks for the very informative video. I'm going to do my very first brew day this weekend, now that it's cooled down a bit in my area. I've been collecting used equipment for a few months now. As a newbie I'm going with a recipe for a California IPA and going to pressure ferment in my Fermzilla at about 10 psi then pressure transfer to a corney keg. I'm going for something that is drinkable, not necessarily a perfect IPA. Wish me luck.

I would love to see the electricity consumption comparison.

I went through a couple of refractometers that would give me VERY inconsistent results like you. Especially worse for boil samples. I think it has to do with the fast evaporation that happens with a tiny sample. I switched to an easy dens and all my issues went away. Now my gravity readings actually all make sense.

All TRONG content is great content!!

Just brewed my first iGulu batch and the amber was very foamy. I had watched some of your other videos before, so I was happy to find this video. Want to film a follow-up video to the brew video we did 2 weeks ago, so this is VERY helpful.

What happened to the Igulu Mead?

The off flavors could be from the high pressurized fermentation (stressed yeast) or the DME. Spunding valves should be set to 2-4psi max! The pilsner looks hazy as well.

There should definitely be an over pressure release at no more than 16psi, there's absolutely no reason to take the pressure to 30-35 psi, even during fermentation (max of 2-4psi honestly). I'd recommend 4mm ID x 8mm beer line as it's more common and more durable. At the proper serving pressure you'd really only need about 5-6ft and you can likely close the top :)

Minibrew (exobrew) looks better imo. You can also only take the keg and make all grain and fill the keg.

Unfortunately, they are $84.00 in Ontario, now.

I brewed both of these two (I have two F1's) and interestingly my tasting notes were identical with yours. I was expecting the German Pilsner to be more dry, clean and hoppy. The sour and yeasty notes surprised me. I didn't like it enough to want to brew it again, but several guests for beer & pizza night were quite effusive about how much they liked it. To each his own! The English Porter on the other hand was light and clean, as you noted, so not particularly true to style, but actually appealed quite a bit to me. But I'm not a dark beer afficionado. Thanks for the video and keep 'em coming!

Great session, when did you pitch the yeast? Did you put the pot in the fridge to get to pitch temp? Thanks

can you just serve after fermenting in the same keg? Is that bad? I find the hops taste weird after dry hopping a little more than a few days.

THese numbers are bigger than on a 19L batch size homebrewing scale, because for example you putting in the o2 wand injects a steady stream of o2, but in this case to a much smaller volume. You wont get the same effects exactly on bigger batches. My point being is that one shouldnt be too confident about getting high enough o2 ppm levels by shaking etc. The wand is necessary to reach higher levels in a real world scenario. Good video, I dont really disagree with anything but wanted to make that point. It is a different thing that which beers need those higher levels. A 1.045 OG pale ale? Perhaps not. Lagers, 1.060+ OG beers, surely yes!

Helluva live setup man! And that system looks really interesting. Great stuff