No

Then the wife isn’t as cool as mine! 😂. There’s a surprising amount of exhaust options out there on the market, from wild to quiet and definitely something for everyone. This was perfect for us and the wife loves it!

I believe it was this one. www.dieselpowerproducts.com/edge-pillar-mount-10-18-cummins-30-ram?gad_source=1&gbraid=0AAAAAD8LZsE5-3AMuP1PppQvn3La8aPWL

I’ve ran 325/30R19’s on mine with a 19x11 wheel. A 345 will probably need a lot of negative camber to clear the fender.

This is the setup for the 19. 19x11 Backspacing 8 in Offset +50 mm

if the 345 isn't possible ill run what you got in this vid, i found a rear subframe its a tubular and puts the brakes inwards so by the differential which eliminates that problem@@CORNYOTE

It’s a 15x11 with a 8.5 BS. Requires AED’s billet knuckles and custom rear brakes to run.

Clutch was found on eBay, no idea what brand or model, just found something with the right shaft diameter that would hold. The transaxle is a Spicer H12 FNR. I found it on eBay as well used. New they’re pretty pricey.

The swap is specifically for cummins diesel trucks, so your best bet would be to start with a diesel truck.

Video has a 3.25 but it’s now on a 3.0 6-rib on pump E85 with a best of 9.1@155

Mine’s built from scratch, not from using an entire car frame and running gear.

That was actually a massive pain in the butt. I could not find a switch that latched that was the same size as the hurst. I have no idea why they used such an odd size. 12mm is pretty standard. I drilled out the hole in the side panel just slightly and retapped the threads for 12mm. The button is too long, so you have to leave the nut on it as you can see in the video. I also had to ditch the connectors on the wire and just soldier the wire ends directly and shrink wrap them to save space as that panel is very tight. I wish I would’ve made a tutorial on that now as several people have asked how I made it work.

@@CORNYOTE thanks for the reply, I ended up drilling mine as well and pretty much made is a pressure fit.

Absolutely.

@@CORNYOTE any issues at all with the ABS modules from turning them on and off frequently?

@@5oh_goon the only thing I’ve ever seen is sometimes it takes a minute for the module to re-engage and the lights to go out.

@@CORNYOTE gotcha! How long have you been running it?

@@5oh_goon over 3 years

Unfortunately none of it is a simple bolt on. Some of the parts will have to be modified. 2ea Wilwood Rotor 160-5841 (need to be safety wired to hat and must have the outer diameter machined down 1/16” on either a lathe or brake rotor machine) 2ea Wilwood Hat 170-7632 (must be drilled or machined for 14mm studs) 2ea Wilwood Caliper 120-9693-RD (RD signifies red caliper color) 1ea Wilwood Pads 150-9418K Brake line 220-13913 NB-AERO Polycarbon Hubcentric Center Ring 71.5mm to 76MM 3mm spacer 5x4.5 76MM bore (Caliper bolts will have to be sourced locally)

Thank you for the info. This was very simple to do. I recommend to everyone. No issues.

You running the stock manifold or a 2nd Gen setup? Mine lights pretty fast, but I have a BD Race manifold. If you give it more rpm before shifts though it’ll keep spool easier.

The front spindles and hubs I had laying around they’re off an LTZ400 atv. The rack and pinion and transaxle I found on eBay. The adapters for the transaxle were off Amazon and we’re just to adapt whatever you use for a transaxle to the 110mm bolt pattern for the specific atv wheels.

@@CORNYOTE what exacly is the rear axle off of? I am having trouble finding one and making it work.

@@WilliamBartlett-mi8rs the transaxle is a Dana H12 FNR. I think maybe they came in some gas powered golf carts or maybe farm UTV’s. Colleges sometimes use them for their buggy programs. I just searched Dana H12 on eBay and found one. Might have just been lucky.

@@CORNYOTE How well does it stop with just the front brakes?

@@WilliamBartlett-mi8rs pretty well. They make a hydraulic rear brake setup for the transaxle but never got around to converting it

If you’re starting from a dead stop at lower rpm’s it can be pretty bad stomping on it. If you shift at 3-3.5k it’s a glaze maybe. Short shifting will produce more until the turbo gets spooled fully.

@@CORNYOTE who wrote you "calibrations" if you don't mind me asking. I have the same set up with Exergry 60% overs 10mmCP3 and a FIS464/83/.90 Billet wheel and my turbo does not light until about 2500 RPMs. I see yours comes up much sooner on stock fuel. I have checked everything, everything and thats all shes got. 2010 G56.

Not interested in selling, it was just a fun one off thing for the family.

I don’t do any outside work, just my own, thanks.

@@CORNYOTE Totally,if you ever change your mind you can name your price for a small project. Essentially I want to make a go kart attached below a portable toilet for a youtube video. I appreciate your response and have a good day!

I built it a few years back. Yeah you’ll definitely have to order 6-9 months out these days

Thanks! It’s 3/12. We don’t get much snow to speak of where I am.

Very cool! Love to see some of your projects! Feel free.

@@CORNYOTE Go to my grandson's channel "KieransCoolClub" there's three of them there

@@garandsgadgets5372 very cool! Some of my favorites toys growing up were homemade by my dad. Nice to see that carried on through younger generations.

It’s in the trailer for the time being. Still have to get some junk put away to make space. 😂

Thanks man! Still a ways to go, but I got a ton done in a short amount of time.

This was built back before he built his 😂

Yep @cornyote

These are the parts you’ll need. 2ea Rotor 160-5841 2ea Hat 170-7632 (will have to be drilled for 14mm studs) 2ea Caliper 120-9693-RD (-rd is red) 1ea Pads 150-9418K Brake line 220-13913 NB-AERO Polycarbon Hubcentric Center Ring 71.5mm to 76MM 3mm spacer 5x4.5 76MM bore

They’ll last for awhile. Once you get up to that much power you have expect to replace them yearly if not more depending on how aggressive you get. The additional clutch packs will help with that to some extend though. I only run pump E85

@@CORNYOTE Once a year is not too bad. And good to know you can run that much boost with pump E85. Best I’ve seen here in Miami is E80-83 but that’s close enough I guess. To get that 8sec pass you’re gonna need to max out the 6 rib with a 2.75” griptec.

@@Mach_22 if I get the 60ft down it’ll go 8’s as it sits, but may drop to a 2.75 anyway for fun

That’s not what your girl said.

I definitely don’t feel like I have a dead spot anywhere. There’s slight lag, but it’s not a dead spot, just a spot of slightly slower acceleration in low rpm’s. Try shifting at a higher rpm and see if it still has that same issue. I’m on a southbend dual disk.

yeah id be going to a diffrent tuner if you havent already ....

@@beaustephenson4888 figured out the problem the day after i posted this reply. My mechanic didnt tighten a hose clamp on the intake. Was sucking air that wasnt accounted for via maf sensor. Tightened it down and all good now.

Head studs, stock injectors, stock lift pump. 155K miles now. 👍🏻

I think the people flexing the cases and shearing parts are pushing over 1000hp. Mine has been absolutely solid. Not one single issue. I’m even still on the Southbend clutch I did years ago. Everything probably has 110k-120k on it all and I tow a 28ft enclosed with a car in it fairly often.

@@CORNYOTE that’s what I was thinking. I’m around 450- 500ish and don’t drive it like I stole it so that does make me feel better about it

I wouldn’t worry. I beat mine like a red-headed step child and it’s been a champ.

Velocity Blue and the trailer is absolutely awesome.

Agreed. Covid really seems to have slowed down manufacturing and has really made demand skyrocket. It’s hard to find anything used without paying almost new prices. I feel like I really got lucky with right place right time when I saw this one for sale. I love it though! It’s somewhat comforting that when you buy a top of the line trailer though, resale value will always be much higher and you’ll really never lose out much.

I have not driven in pouring rain, just light sprinkles but it’s sat in pouring rain. I haven’t seen any moisture get in at all. The design has a lip, so I would think any water that could somehow get past the seal, would run down the lip to the bottom of the trailer. And the same goes for the removeable fender, I don’t think there’s any way water would be able to get in. The escape hatch does stick out a little. Maybe 5ft when opened. I was at the track yesterday and had plenty of room in designated spots to open it up and have the car next to it. Not sure how other tracks are for parking, but all the ones I’ve been to it wouldn’t be an issue. The first real shakedown of the trailer was yesterday at a track rental and it was everything I could’ve dreamed of with a trailer. It was absolutely perfect and I can tell it’s going to be one of my best purchases I’ve made. You’re right, they’re not cheap, just keep doing your research and find exactly what you want.

@@CORNYOTE thanks for info.