Hey Andy, the timer is set for seconds, I adjusted until it felt right. It may take further adjustment

Did you want to reinforce the tailstock or just have me make the tailstock spindle?? You can email me at ulmadoc@gmail

A 25 amp bridge rectifier was used in the upgrade. You can find them on Amazon or Ebay

It sure does!

I turned 1/2-20tpi threads for a drill chuck on one end of a M18x2.5 all-thread rod and turned down the other end to 10mm to accept a hand wheel

I made it from scratch. The flycutter is internally threaded M12x1.0 to a depth of 12mm

www.ebay.com/itm/166894198288?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=hBoHc0LeQvG&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=HtcFPSt6Qj2&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY Is the drill chuck For a fee, I could reproduce the threaded quill, with the 1/2-20tpi threaded nose for attachment of the drill chuck. You would need to decide if you would like to use the original hand wheel or use an aftermarket hand wheel (the quill is a different size on one end than my hand wheel than original)

You would need to make a second tailstock quill by taking a suitable length of M18x2.5 all thread and machining the MT1 taper into the all thread , or you could make an adapter that has M18-2.5 internal threads and a MT1 socket to thread onto a length of all thread. Both set ups would require a metal lathe to do the work as well as adding hand wheels

kzbin.info/www/bejne/iqm3iWNnga-Bhposi=hBOKyG8U4UZim730

I have not tried to make pens yet, so I’m not sure how blanks are held, but I imagine that either a 3 jaw or 4 jaw scroll chuck could be used. The spindle is M18x2.5 If you were to get an adapter, you could use a 3j or 4j scroll chuck from just about anywhere

I would think that it’s possible , for souvenir type bats from soft woods. I’m not sure if the available torque is sufficient for heavy duty work in hardwoods, but this is purely speculation on my part. Low depth of cut may suffice. Carbide tipped tools would be the best chance of producing the desired results. I should test some hardwood for giggles and see what happens. Thanks for watching!!!

@@mikewalton5469 please do! Would love to see how it holds up to ash and maple

Yes, I think you’re correct. The speed is variable, so thin metal is certainly possible!

a.co/d/1nQ5kMu

You will need a M18-2.5 x 1”-8tpi adapter

Call it whatever you like.

I call it what it is. Wish you the best. @@mikewalton5469

your motor may be very different than mine, therefore the diagram could be different as well.

Update Video is coming soon!!! Thanks for watching!

www.ebay.com/itm/393036878286?var=661950621520

@mikewalton5469 Thanks, Mike. I found a similar ad and ordered one. It should be in within the next 10 days. Regards

Mike, I must thank you again. I had to use the link you provided to get the proper adapter.

I bought this lathe in hopes to make pens but have not found a mandrel that would fit it. Have you had any lucks finding maybe an adapter or a mandrel that fits? Thanks!

There doesn’t seem to be any sure fire way of making the headstock align exactly with the tailstock. A little trial and error or possibly a dial indicator can help. Most of the time, it really shouldn’t matter as we are using hand fed tools- you are free to remove material just about anywhere on the work to the desired dimensions

These lathes are badged with many different names, but they are all the same machines

www.ebay.com/itm/393036878286?var=661950621520

M18x2.5

@@mikewalton5469Thanks! I had reached out to Vevor support to ask what size so I could get one, and also telling them it was shown in the user manual but not included, and they sent me one for free! 🙂

you can test the output of the alternator by putting the leads of a volt meter across the positive and negative terminals of the battery while the engine is running you should see greater than 6.5 volts@ 1100 rpm, but less than 8 volts. if you get more than 8 volts you risk boiling the battery if lights are not used to reduce some of the excess alternator output

yeah, but at some disadvantage. it's not a bad place to get started though.

Alright I just ordered it. Let’s see if I can turn this broomstick sized stick into a little wand for my niece.

Yes it certainly will. I would consider a SSR capable of switching 165 amps , for the initial inrush protection .

So I just started looking for one that big and the largest I found was 100 amp. Could you recommend a place what I could find one? And as for wiring everything up, I’d remove the board, connect wires to each other where they would have been in the board, and the relay would go on the start cap wires?

1-5/8"-8tpi

Where are you trying to install the contactactor? Are you thinking of using the contactor to control incoming power to the phase a matic?

@@mikewalton5469 sir!! Thank you so much for responding!!! Yes, I bought one through Amazon, it’s the ;Big Horn 18825 1-Phase, 220-240-Volt, 5-HP, 22-34-Amp Magnetic Switch - with push button on/off button. I was going to run off the main panel into a 2 pole 220v 30 amp breaker . Then into that magnet switch to give power to the idler motor, then run those three same wires coming out of the idler motor into a three phase 30 amp disconnect box, into my machine. When I purchased the used fiveHP idler motor, it came with a separate smaller box that looks to be a static converter, but it has three places to wire into labeled A,B in C. It says on it.; heavy duty Phase-A-Matic Phase converter. When I opened it up, it seem to have a few capacitors in it, but the same company makes a static phase converter that almost looks identical to it, I’m not sure if the guy I bought the motor from know exactly what it was, just had the same name of a company on it, and assume they went together? Or they really do go together, and I’m just not sure how to wire it in.

yes, with some caveats- its not the most rigid lathe out of the box- but you can make cool stuff as is

The oil filter is a pain to change. You need to lay the bike on its side to get it in. Other than that, get a decent exhaust to unlock some ponies. Congratulations

I didn’t measure the resistance. That’s a good question. FWIW, its the OEM replacement part

Amazon

thanks for watching!

Thanks for watching! i built this one on the fly and didn't do a good job of explaining any process. if you have a look here kzbin.info/www/bejne/eofdl2RplruAaZY it goes into a little explanation. cheers!

the centrifugal switch should be normally closed. that means it is always trying to use the capacitor until the motor is up to about 2/3 of rated speed. at that point, the centrifugal switch is opened by the flyweights centrifugal force, or spring force, and the capacitor recharges. the capacitor is ready for the next start cycle or heavy load. if the motor encounters a load of 1/3 of the rated speed, the centrifugal switch is enacted again due to the loss of centrifugal force by the flyweights, or the effect of spring force, dumping the capacitor charge into the start circuit to bring the motor back up to speed. if you motor buzzes, the start circuit or the run circuit may be open. the start switch should have 3 contacts, the normally closed contact discharge the capacitor, the normally open contact recharges the capacitor. if your normally open contact tip is missing, the capacitor is not likely charging up. this will make the motor buzz , as there is no current going through half of the windings. your motor needs 2 poles to run, and an extra for starting

@@mikewalton5469 it is one of the rubber like pads that was riveted to one of the arms. That's what's missing. Looks like the plunger is holding the contactor open and when the weights are supposed to open , the plunger on the clutch disengages , which would allow the contacts to close. Doesn't make sense to me. Is their something I can get to replace that pad?

Hi Dan! Good to hear from you! i hope all is well. i got the 12-24's from McMaster-Carr- they seem to have everything!!!

i' ll add a video of how it was made

stock everything! it has a bog at low end but comes around after a slight pause

If you’re interested, I can print and send copies to you

generally, the reverse function is done at the vfd. the vfd would control motor function most effectively

$55 for a set + shipping (usually less than $5) i don't have much else for sale other than 3d printed indicator holders

nope, the whole lathe moved as i was turning the feed knob, the lathe is not bolted down