I have read that wpc is compatible with other coatings but I can't confirm how that would work with ceramic. They were quick and responsive when I spoke with them so I would recommend reaching out directly!

@@AustinRohr ok, nice information...thk u for reply sir

Personally, I would like to use it on crank, cam, pins, springs, valves. But if you have a (Forged piston), I think you would be better Served, with a different coating on the crown for heat, and line to line coating on the skirts. Check out line to line before you decide what you want to do✌️

​​@@kevinwest3689ok, thats so enlighment..thks for insight bro... sorry for late respon , start busy start my project with my m60b30 😁

Great question... no idea. Hopefully someone else out there can answer this!

I have a 2014 450, will this mod work with it ??

Hard to say, I only put 25 hours on the machine before selling it. However, for the cost, I think I'd definitely do it again and possibly have other parts done as well.

It's been awhile so forgive me if I'm not remembering correctly, but I believe it doesn't really make a difference. As long as it lines up with the bolt holes and the center hole you're in business.

@@AustinRohr appreciate the reply. Thank you.

Yes if you have the OEM computer it will cause a cel. However, with a vortex ecu it has software that cancels the AIS system.

Thank you! I ran those settings for 27 hours. After that, I bumped the compression up, had head work done, and made a few other changes. Doing that required the settings to be changed and we did all of that on the dyno. That said, the motor was in great shape at 27 hours when we opened it up and I wouldn't have any concerns running those settings on a relatively stock Yamaha. If anything it's a touch on the rich side but not enough to be a problem. For cleaning it up I use SC1 underneath the fenders and on the hard parts, but for the plastics themselves I prefer to use Yamacoat. It's quite a bit different, you have to actually treat it more like a polish and wipe it down with a microfiber. It gives it a "new" look but doesn't make the bike feel greasy. And it comes off with a little contact cleaner if you need to apply graphics/stickers later on whereas SC1 can make that a real challenge once you've used it a few times.

I'm not sure honestly. I quit after '21 and won't go back to race or spectate any time soon.

@@AustinRohr oh shit somthing bad happen?

@@desertratgaming9865 Yeah unfortunately. More of a personal issue. Just not for me anymore!

Typically I've used Rocky Mountain ATV/MC for most of that sort of stuff. You'll have to search for it through the OEM parts finder, which can be tricky if you've never done it before, but it helps a lot to get familiar with it!

Thank you for your reply! I just came from my dealership and they only gave me one oil filter, two of those small donut gaskets, and one large oring. Now I know I’m short on parts due to your video. I asked him, is that all we need? He said yes. Missing two drain plug gaskets and one small donut gasket. Glad I saw your video before working on my new/used bike!

I forgot to ask, what year is your bike?

@@mchevownr ahh man, that's a bummer! They should definitely have them, too. Most of those crush washers are pretty standard across many models so it's hard to believe they wouldn't have any on hand. If you look for them, I believe they're listed under "crankcase." My quad here is a 2020, but the parts and process remains unchanged from 2009-current.

Tell me you didn't watch the video without telling me you didn't watch the video 😂

It works pretty well!

Thank you! The property is a total of five acres but I'd say the track only uses roughly half of that. It could be done in an even smaller space if it was so tightly wooded.

@@AustinRohr thanks man, there's only a few tracks left in Maine. I don't have any interest in racing but would have a little spot to rip around on. Thank you for the info.

Yeah, I was. I really enjoyed it but it's certainly not for everyone.

@@AustinRohr yeah I’m using it now too. Thinking of switching to the Hinson just to try it out. No issues with the Rekluse tho. Runs pretty good.

I think the most important thing is to build up your confidence. Just keep showing up to the track and getting comfortable. The techniques you use on smaller jumps will apply to the bigger ones as well. In some ways they're almost easier because they require the right amount of speed and commitment on your end, where smaller ones might require more finesse to stick the landing just right. It helps if you can practice larger tabletops that have gradual landings so you can get a better feel for without too much consequence. Beyond that... Follow someone! I always try to fall in behind faster riders and learn from them. If you know the guy in front of you is clearing the obstacles you want to hit then mimicking their speed and using their line right behind them can help you figure it out. And once you do, you'll be that much more confident to try other things!

@@AustinRohr damn thanks bro! Thats was a really good explanation, i will definitely keep that in mind! Sad to see that you quit racing your YFZ but you do whats best for you bro! Good luck with evrything💪🏻

I felt pretty similar. I'm not sure why exactly that is. Could be the weight or how the power is delivered or something else. I had been told they're better as well and have seen dyno numbers to back that up, but my YFZ felt much more responsive and I was able to clear obstacles much easier with it. The LTR didn't feel like it had any bottom end at all. It really goes to show that the numbers on paper don't always translate to how something feels when you actually ride it.

@@AustinRohr I agree, the ltr lacks bottom end power, both being equal in modifications. It was interesting to see how much better the yamaha was in comparison. Thanks for the reply.

I think it really depends on who does the work. I believe the intent behind leaving it rough was to help with fuel atomization. I'm definitely not the expert, though. Jeff tests things until he gets the result he wants so I left it in his hands! haha

PRECISION stabilizers are the best, really no comparison.

It just adds range to it.

At the time I ran stock gearing. I eventually bumped up to a 15 tooth front, but I didn't necessarily love it. Great for open layouts but I honestly preferred the 14 on tighter tracks.

We did all stock valves! And he was still tweaking the head stuff a bit at the time so we didn't have a clearcut before and after. The difference was pretty dramatic, though!

@@AustinRohr OCP has got a few things figured out...It wasn't that many years ago other guys were still figuring out the R heads and not able to get to 55hp without spending a lot more $$... At the end of the day you have a great running quad that's also reliable. I wonder what the RP Race throttle body would do to your build..

No problem. It wont alter the surface, you can use WPC over any existing coating.

Correct. They're not cheap. They're not even perfect for that matter. But a piggyback tuner won't solve the stock ECU issues and sending the ECU off to be reprogrammed is great so long as you don't decide to change anything with the machine.

I thought they were 799

@@Fox250R it's possible the prices have gone up since I bought mine.

Haha I was getting excited lol I’m about to buy one for my 21 SE