There are several options but if you are using a large head like the LH-55 I’d opt for a tripod with 36 or 40mm top leg sections. So with Ranger the LS-364c or the Summit LM-404c. In South Africa you could also consider the Agulhas (LP-364cex).

I didn't realise that Andy Mumford used one. I was smitten with the X-T2 when I first played with it. Borrowing this one has had me scouring the classifieds for a good example. The 6D definitely still has it's place (and is one of the Canon's I have long recommeded for landscape photographers - I personally still use a Nikon D850) but I suspect the joy of using such a light camera system with the Fuji may delegate the DSLR to the cupboard for most of the time.

@@emilvonmaltitz Yes, you may well be right Emil... Andy and Andrea Livieri, the Padua-based landscape photographer, (also on YT) , and Dan Bailey based in Alaska all value the considerable size and weight savings that the XT system provides, and see no issues with image quality as compared to full frame. As an amateur, I love the retro style and analogue dials on the body: it's a really fun, intuitive camera to use, and image quality is excellent. C1 is particularly good at demosaicing the X-Trans sensor files...thanks for your excellent tutorials on C1, by the way.

That’s a great tip for using “Open With” - At some point I might do a video on that, but I haven't actually updated yet to V7 (still on 6). I also use the Open with feature when I need to use a RAW file or as you suggest continue using the layers within Photoshop...I guess I'll need to do a followup :D

I use Affinity with C-1 and it's seamless. Haven't used Adobe since CS-6.

Yes!! Thanks.

Good point...and as far as I know yes, it should work the same.... a good idea for a video. I bit the bullet and bought the Affinity trio of apps at the end of last year, but have yet to actually load them and use them. Time to take the plunge I guess.

Thanks Barry

That would be great! Always appreciate your videos. Give affinity a go. It’s a lot richer than most realize.

I'm not Emil but Edit With will give you the option to take your C-1 edits with you to the plugin because you are essentially exporting that file as a TIFF JPEG etc.(whatever you choose) to the plugin. When the file comes back to C-1 the original C-1 edits will be baked into the returning file though (because you exported it). You will still have the original RAW in C-1 with your original edits prior to opening it in a plugin available to you. Open With will take the RAW (or whatever the original file is that you are opening with) minus any C-1 edits you may or may not have made. Also, you don't have the option to change the file type (because you are not exporting it you are opening it). It goes to the plugin as the original file format. RAW will go as a RAW, TIFF will go as a TIFF etc. A case you would use Edit With is Nik. With Nik you will have to click Edit With if your original is a RAW because Nik can't open RAW's. Edit With will give the option to export to Nik in a format that it accepts and when it comes back to C-1 it will come back in that same format. Nik would be something you would run after doing edits in C-1 as finishing touches so you would want to take those C-1 edits to Nik with you and then have the finished file come back to C-1. You would also use Edit With if you were taking a file to Photoshop or Affinity for further pixel based editing. (If you clicked Open With and it was a RAW file you were opening then it would open in ACR or the Affinity Develop Persona). . A case that you would use Open With would be if you wanted to run a RAW through something like Pure Raw for noise reduction. In that case you would right click the file and choose Open With because Pure Raw only accepts RAW files. It would open that RAW file in Pure Raw and then you can do your noise and lens corrections to the original file. It will then come back to C-1 as a DNG or TIFF (whatever you choose) and then you can further work on that file in C-1. You will still have the original RAW in C-1 though. Caution: If you run a file through Pure Raw and you have applied noise reduction or lens corrections to the file then you want to make sure that you disable those corrections in C-1 when doing further work on that file.

@@barryj1956 great explanation. Thank you for answering.

Thanks Barry, your explanation is spot on!

Thanks Alan!

Thanks Gerry!

Hi Ed. I haven't had an opportunity to use the LO series. They look very interesting, but the higher selling price here has meant that the distributor here is thinking of not even bringing them in anymore.

Thanks Christian! These videos tend to get lost in the YT algorithms, but it's the kind of topic I enjoy thinking about. When I get asked to talk at clubs and conventions these topics get more attention than the usual youtube fare as well.

Hi Jay. As I mentioned in the video, for a large amount of panos that shoot, apart from the leveling head, there is no special equipment necessary. The rail literally just makes the complicated panos easier to stitch and more accurate. The software really has gotten amazingly good!

It’s good to know I’m not monologuing to empty space 😁 Thanks for watching them Stephen. I plan to keep them coming.

That’s interesting about the overheating. Thanks Jo. Possibly the Sony has a higher MBPS output which causes the overheating. Regardless the 100mbps of the X-t2 is excellent. I absolutely agree with you on the AF-C setting. I think that only really improved with the X-T3 onwards.

@ i used 60 mbps when using my frd's a7m4. Frankly every machine may encounter similar issue but if it happen to sony's machine it will be a total lost, while my XT-2 is still able to write the video. However i am considering to get a Sony to replace Fuji solely for video recording as it has a much better AF and ecosystem with numerous choices of lenses and accessories. AF-C of Fuji drive me crazy💩

😂 ah, the cost of photography!

IBIS would be good for video absolutely...but I guess that's one of the reasons why the larger XH-1 exists. I have had a couple of workshop particpants now who have upgraded to the XT-5 and that is a very impressive camera!

As mentioned in the video pricing depends on where you are and the availability in the market. Here, it goes for 400 Euro and less, so probably prices are inflated in Holland. I mention the x-m5 in the video. The XM series it not the same as the XT series so although it has a better sensor and video output, it lacks the magnesium alloy body (almost wholly plastic and composite body), viewfinder and double card slots. I realise a lot people have gotten used to not using a viewfinder, but equally there are a lot of photographers who want a viewfinder.

Thanks Will. Thanks for watching.

Spec wise...and in comparison to it's peers, yes, I think it is. Certainly where I reside it is.

Thanks Stephen!

It's a pity that there isn't a replaceable focus screen like with the older DSLRs (and even older SLRs). I personally didn't find it that difficult and enjoyed using manual focus lenses. Possibly the inclusion of a digital split view (like the Fujifilms use) would make this easier.

Actually X-T3 is the last model that was built in Japan

@ Hi, I had an X-T3 clearly marked made in China.. but it seems they manufactured also some in Japan.. according to google research :) so, thanks!

@@tomleo4670 Sorry, my mistake.

Thank Tom. I didn't realise that the XT-2 was the last model built in Japan. Might be anecdotal but the camera certainly feels more firm and well-built (less plasticky for want of better words) than the following models.

@ I agree- to me the X-T2 feels also built sturdier than the later models

Comparisons...look at the specs and what the equivalent is. Students starting out now gravitate towards the Canon R50 which is one of the cheapest new interchangeable lens cameras...and having used both the R50 and the XT-2, I would go for the latter in a heartbeat. Yes, the X-M5 exists, but it doesn't have double card slots, viewfinder or magnesium alloy body. I taught at a college for several years and the inclusion of a PC-sync socket on the X-T2 is a big deal for student work. So by those criteria, yes, it is cheap in comparison.

You're absolutely right about the value of the X-T2!

Thanks for the subscribe Gerry!

Thanks, glad it was helpful!

Possibly because I had the X-T1 from new the menu system didn't bother me (very different to the Oly menus which are a hot mess). Similarly I've been using C1 for so long that the conversion thing was never an issue (I also dabbled with Iridient when I first started with the X-T1, and that really is for the pixel-peepers, but very complex compared to the more mainstream converters - something for you play with on your channel). I hear what you say about the hype. The Fuji users are a community unto their own. Be very wary of saying anything negative about one of the cameras for fear that a rabid horde of angry Fujiphiles will tear you limb from limb ;) I have yet to use a M4/3 camera. Support for them in SA is abysmal and my early experience with the Panasonic G2 did not fill me with confidence. But you are right, if 'cheap' is the defining criteria for a student, you'd be hard pressed to get better value for money than with a secondhand Panny M4/3.

@@emilvonmaltitz Indeed familiarity makes life easier with the menu system (I still think Nikon wins there). Tried Irridient too, not bad but not great. I didn't realise Panasonic or M4/3 in general is so badly supported in SA - what a shame!

Awesome to hear that others are also still using the camera. I actually didn’t know about the latest firmware update last year, and I like your idea about the histogram overlay. Will give that a try.

Thanks, and greetings back!

You’re very welcome! I hope your students enjoy it…particularly if they watch it for buying a plastic fantastic entry level camera 😆

Thanks Prakash! And thank you for the loan of the camera…it’s going to be hard letting it go

Myllo!! Thanks man. Still get jealous every time I see you working with your Fujis!

I had to do a physical sensor clean once with a sensor swipe and liquid. The rest of the time I did occasional blows with a bulb-blower from Nisi. For the most part I wasn't all that worried about dust (and Madagascar is dusty) but it is something you have to be aware of when changing lenses. A sensor shield would be nice.

@@AlainCh2. brilliant! That’s a nice and portable setup. Thanlks for sharing.

Hi David. Would love to. I just didn't have access to one and as I don't own my Zf (yet) it doesn't make sense to buy one. If I buy my own copy of a Zf, the Z mount Voigtländer will be on my shopping list in likelihood.

Thanks!

It's a pleasure, thanks for watching

It’s a good filter. To be honest I’m not sure whether Nisi updated the CPL glass in the filter to their new ‘Neutral’ CPL. I have the the older version (which I think has the ‘Pro’ CPL glass) and as such has a slightly warm caste to it. If you want to use circular filters rather than a system like the JetMag or V7, then the combo is excellent for water shoots and really convenient (I hate stacking circular filters and I often a CPL and ND together)

@@emilvonmaltitz if I only get one filter which one will make more sense 10 stop with CPL combination as on unit or 6 stop with CPL combination as one piece?

@@papabear7875 what do you shoot the most? If seascapes and you are wanting the super smooth water, then a 10stop with CPL. If rivers and waterfalls I’d go with the 6stop combo (although a 3stop also works really well). If you are wanting convenience and ease of use with a single filter you could also think about using a variable ND (which is also polarised incidentally - it’s just a lot harder to control how it polarises).

Yes, absolutely. I almost always end up using a very subtle vignette on portraits. You can also add a little bit of reverse clarity/defocus to your vignette with portraits

Thanks Martin. I must do a video on the distortion features in C1 at some stage. You’re right, there is some perspective distortion in the image. LR’s database is bigger, but that hasn’t really bothered me as I often end up using the guides if I need to straighten. If there’s an issue it’s with lenses that have ‘moustache’ distortion (my 16-35 exhibits this subtly at 16mm) and C1 just doesn’t seem to correct for that.

It's not possible to do that with C1. You'd have to use PS or a similar bitmap editor to do so. It's not something I've ever needed to do for a client or for personal work. If I ever do, I'll think about putting a video together on it. Thanks for the suggestion.

Good point. I have no idea 🤷‍♂️ that would be a cool feature.

Rajesh, I would absolutely love to own a Zf. It’s one of the best cameras I’ve shot with. Thing is my D850 does everything I need it to and the three kids, mortgage and school fees kind of have me looking wistfully at the Zf, but not actually taking the plunge. Doesn’t mean I won’t eventually.

Personally I’d say it depends on whether you want small and light or versatile. The Sigma is very versatile and well priced, but heavier and larger than the 1.8 versions of the 20 and 24 prines. The 24 and 20mm are probably optically better and also are 1.8 so faster. If you’re wanting to do astro I’d lean towards the 20mm… general travel and landscape the 24mm.

@@emilvonmaltitz thank u very much for quick respond.

It's a pleasure. Thanks fro watching!

Glad it was helpful!

Hi John. My understanding is that there is very little pressure control that you can achieve with C1 and a tablet. It's never really bothered me as I'm probably not that skilled with a tablet and stylus. There is a pressure control for brush size which can be useful for dodging and burning. Flow and opacity is more useful there though...there's probably a video in that I suspect. Thanks for the suggestion!

@@emilvonmaltitz Thank, Emil. It's something I've never seen anyone else talk about for C1. Using my XP-Pen and pad in Ps, I can obtain a really subtle build up of dodge, burn or contrast. Can't get the same effect using C1. I just use the basic G640 model that only costs about £30. Had a Wacom but didn't like it.

Cool, that you got something out of the video. Thanks for watching and thanks for the comment.

Thanks! Oh no, maybe I should add it here 😂 it’s got the vibes! Thanks for watching and commenting!

Nice point. Yup, I agree. A good vignette is one that the viewer doesn’t even realise is there.

Thanks Vidya! Glad you found it useful.

Absolute pleasure. Thanks for watching