I never sacrrifice good nos tubes in this kind of electronics .

My dad has a hafler ph500 and some JBL L150 speakers. Wondering what preamp should be used if any with the hafler amp?

Why not do a video on vintage mosfit amps ,they have a slight tube sound. Like the soundcraftsmen & B&k amps.

The globe on the lamp to the right is crooked. That is all.

I have one for sale.

Another great review! I use this preamp and switched the second pair (right side) of supplied JJ tubes with a matched set of vintage Sylvanias. I’m not sure if it sounded better or I imagined a difference. Considering the little cost, I happier with the new sound even if it’s a placebo effect. Keep up the good work. Happy new year.

I think he went on EBAY and was looking at DH200's. Good luck finding a DH500 for UNDER $200 in running condition on EBAY. As with ALL old gear, they do need to have Caps replaced, or a transistor or two replaced. Expect to be in them for $500 IF you are lucky. With that being said, they are put in the TOP TEN BEST ALL TIME Amplifiers ever! Worth the $500. There are replacement parts. I now have two and would consider one more.

Sorry man but what two buckets of junk. No wonder Carver stuff never gained any value. Gimmicks is what they are.

Hi I have a Carver C-11 with sonic holograph and when I first set it up using the c-11 manual it was truly amazing the sound stage was so wide it was coming from outside the room, I am a big Bob Carver fan and have C 11 and two 350 W mono blocks. If you read online, he would never buy his products with all the negative rhetoric lately however, when you listen to the sound, it’s truly amazing. Thanks for your thoughtful review Take care Bill

For me this was one of the best low power amplifier. I listened it along many years to drive number of various speakers from JBL to Dali, Magnat to Tannoy.....best in its power category⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐

Can I send you mine ? For refurbishing ?

Great review. I haven’t seen one of these but I will definitely keep an eye and ear out for one. Thanks!

Does it connect like an EQ would?

Thanks for the review! A customer where I work just gave me a TX-2500 mk ll that had been in his attic for decades. It had brown paint on a metal cover, which I thought looked cheap, so I didn't think much of it at first, except it was very heavy. But when I opened it I saw the huge transformer and 2 Nichicon capacitors, and the pcb boards had Onkyo stamped on them. After cleaning the glass front I really liked how it looked, so I tried it out and it works great so far! The display lights work, but not the smaller indicator ones. It's amazing how much it feels and sounds like a new piece of equipment though it's about 45 years old. I've put away my Quad 33/405 for now. There's no Dolby stuff, it only plays 2 sets of speakers and no pre/main switch which I guess makes it a lower model.

I have a TX-4500 MK2 version of this receiver and it's a beast but needs some lights replaced. Otherwise it works well!

The sourds of your voice in the vidéo is tiring. You should compress the dynamic range

The 405 had a speaker protection board attached to the rear of the speaker sockets. The 405-2 had the speaker protection built in to the main boards. Therefore if fitting 405 boards into a 405-2 the amp will not have the speaker protection circuity.

You should never plug a tube amp in with no load. It’s a sure way to kill the transformers.

Thanks, enjoyed the video. I have a CR 2020 thats in need of an output pair of transistors. Any suggestions on where to find good replacements these days?

All the TX series Onkyo receivers were pretty decent stuff in my opinion. I have a TX-8511 which is not really a classic but it's still a solid performer. Audio snobs wouldn't like it probably but it's really a better sounding amp than it has any right to be. Decent size power supply, extremely dependable two channel stereo and all at a price point that was very affordable. What's not to like?

Again, another nice job and fun to watch!!! These must take you a while to do. I do like the ergonomics of it with the volume and selector being large, which are probably the ones you go to most (at least back when this piece came out). Pretty piece! Looks like could be a great "under the radar" value versus Marantz or Pioneer. I betcha you love that Loudness button (ha, ha). I didn't get to look at this one till later in the day so I'm enjoying a cold one rather than a hot one. And that's such a cool Vette!

I have one of these. It was my father's. He bought it in 1970. It still worked as of 8 years ago. I recapped the power supply and replace the two electrolytic that drive the speakers. To do it justice, the one I have should have all the electrolytic replaced. But as you said, it would take considerable effort. Maybe someday if I am not busy with anything else. The watt ratting was 120 watts (total) "IHF" power ratting. Kind of typical for the day, which the industry cooked up to make amplifiers appear more powerful than they actually were. If one read to the bottom of the specification in the 1970 Radio Shack catalog, it stated 70 watts RMS. It was built by Hitachi in Japan for Radio Shack, and for being a 1969-1970 product it was a nice receiver.

Hi. Thank you for the review. I have a pair of these and love them! I am looking to upgrade to a surround system, and was considering a pair of Realistic 40-219A peakers. There are a pair of them for sale online, still in the box! Any chance of a review? As far as I can see, there isn't a review anywhere. Thanks

I’m sorry, this test is invalid. First of all, we know the difference between them is going to be small, so you will be looking for extremely small differences. First off, take everything out of the signal path including your a/b box and your “12 gauge cable” and only measure the cables. Secondly, use the correct test for the job, measure resistance, impedance, capacitance and inductance, noise and reflections. That’s all there is to measure about wire carrying signals.

The U joint extensions were for the selector switches, not turning the tuning capacitor. That was done via a standard flywheel/dial cord system. The xx20 receivers were really a disappointment to me when it came to build quality. The large boards were more prone to issues and those on the board switches caused problems as well. And for a high end receiver to not even have a tuned RF stage for AM was pretty cheesy. The variable loudness function was explained in the owner's manual, and was designed to provide compensation better suited to the customer's actual usage and the sensitivity of the connected speaker. Yamaha was not the first to use it, as variable loudness was found on the McIntosh C20 preamp from the late 1950s. I was service manager for one of the first Yamaha audio dealers in the country, and was impressed by the build quality of the first generation of products they introduced. But compare this CR 10120 to the original CR1000, and you see how far their quality slipped in a short period of time. And if you look at the next series (CR1040, etc) just one year later, then you get into those really horrible output amp IC's

Another fantastic in depth video that I really enjoyed.

My phase linear 4000 II preamp does that same thing when you turn it on, it only lasts about 20 seconds then goes away. It’s pretty loud it can startle you 😂. Flame Linear am I right?!

I would agree that Yamaha should have called it an "anti-loudness" control. But if you read any Yamaha owner's manual, they explain how it works and how you are supposed to use it pretty clearly. This is the gist of it: First, you set the loudness knob to Flat, then you turn up the Volume to the highest setting that you would normally listen at. Then, if you want a lower sound level (late at night, for example), you adjust the Loudness knob away from Flat, which mainly reduces the mid-range frequencies to lower the overall sound level to what you need while still sounding natural or "good" at that lower sound level. You leave the Volume knob alone when you do this. The intent was to follow the Fletcher-Munson sound curve. Unfortunately, most people have never read the owner's manual, so they don't know how it is supposed to work. The CR-1020 was closer to the top of the 1977 Yamaha receiver line. These were the 1977 models: CR-2020 CR-1020 CR-820 CR-620 CR-420 In 1978, Yamaha added the CR-3020 at the top and the CR-220 at the bottom.

Thanks for this review and test data actually using the unit as a switcher. Another reviewer only tested it in parallel with the speaker outputs. I bought one a couple months ago and so far and so good. I'm using it two switch two amps to one set of speakers.

Had one for a while. Nice performer, but spent too much time on the weak point... the input selector! Instead of a round wafer with contacts, they had a long shaft drive a cam that drove a linear slide switch! Very difficult to clean, compared to a round wafer. Kept failing.

Somewhere back in time a small group huddled around a desk in Yamaha's back office and cooked up a devious plan for the loundess control. _"Oh man, this is really going to mess with Scott when he finally reviews it"_ 🤨

I owned the CR 2020. The FM tuner had the best sound quality I ever listened to from any brand. The design features of the late 70's are still mostly unaltered in todays Yamaha HiFi equipment.

I don't know where your math comes from as far as inflation figures go, but if that receiver was new today, it would go for at least $6,500...if not $8,000.

Thanks for this enjoyable review! I used to see advertisements for these back in the day. I later owned a 1985 1020A model with the Auto Class A feature that I rarely used. I didn't use or like the variable loudness feature either. But I did like the sound of that Yamaha integrated amplifier. I ended up selling that amp a while back and getting a Parasound amplifier, which I like a lot. Thanks again.

Nice job and a very nice looking receiver (and nice looking Vette, I assume that's a good sign for the receiver). My AR SP-3 pre-amp has a similar "loudness" control. I actually really like it. I first turn the pre-amp on with the volume control about as high as I would ever want it. Then use what AR calls the "Contour" control as the volume control. I'm assuming the lower volume I go with it the higher the bass and treble bumps are. So why the volume goes down as I turn it clockwise. Not sure, but I'm guessing the Fletcher-Munson curves show more boost is needed at lower volume levels?

I have the 4.0t in the closet. Used it for decades until I got my Audio Research.

excellent presentation.Very helpful and inspiring analysis of a lovely vintage masterpiece..Thank you so much

Still have mine since 1987! Bought it from original owner who barely used it for a year and needed money.

I had a pair long ago ...1st set of speakers... It wasn't cheap back then

Hand down best review I have come across of an item on KZbin yet, I hope you stick around and thank you

@vintageaudioreview Thank you for the measurements and review of these vintage JBLs! I would love to have a pair of these in my listening room. :) Unfortunately, the age-related deterioration issues with these types of vintage speakers will most likely require a substantial investment in time and money to refurbish and bring them up to spec in order to ensure their performance and future longevity. Ultimately, it would depend on how much money you would need to spend to acquire a pair of these in at least decent cosmetic condition. At a low enough price they would be well worth it. But vintage JBLs in good condition usually command premium prices. As a DIY alternative that could be built in a similar form factor and exterior finish, and would also definitely outperform these JBLs, I would use the following drivers in a 3-way configuration: - Ciare 10" HW251N @ $190 Each/$380 Pair. - Xcelsus Xcelsia Series 4" XXM425 spiderless midrange @ $400 Pair. - SB Acoustics SB29RDNC-C000-4 Fabric Ring-Dome Tweeters @ $145 Pair, or... - (OPTIONAL) SEAS Prestige Titan 27TAC/GB Tweeters @ $195 Pair - High Quality Crossovers, Wiring, & Terminals @ ~$325 Pair or less depending on component selection. - 3/4" MDF cabinets with significant internal bracing, ResoNix CLD+CCF resonance control damping sheets, lambs' wool batting, and oil or wax rubbed walnut/ash/cherry/zebrawood/oak/maple veneer @ $450-$600 Pair. So, for roughly $1700-$2000 you can own and enjoy a similar form factor pair of speakers that performs significantly better and still looks fantastic in your room as well. IMO, I would argue that these would be an "End Game" pair of full-range loudspeakers for most people, except perhaps in the very lowest octave, where it would be quick easy to add a relatively inexpensive but decent subwoofer. So the question is, how much would you personally spend to acquire and then refurbish these vintage JBL speakers?

If it was Class A at 100W per channel it would run more than a little warm! Probably runs deep into Class AB2 with the first few Watts in A. Surprised at the quoted price! I thought these were on the more economic end. Also at the distortion specs compared to other old amps like the Tigersarus.

I use two PowerPac 60 mono amps with Klipsch Heresy 3 and I can't imagine a system sounding better . I recall asking James Tanner at Bryston about bridging two 2B-LPs and he said why not just buy PowerPac 120s or 300s . I love the no-nonsense industrial design of the 2B though . These amps are hard to find in good condition , but Bryston will now refurbish some tatty ones , albeit at some considerable cost . If anyone has a pair of clean 2b-LPs or Pros , I'd be interested . They discontinued all the 60w amps , which is a shame , because they were the easiest way into Bryston ownership . I suppose big power has become fashionable now . I have no plans to "upgrade" .

I sold mine because it sounded a bit lifeless........smooth but lacking some musicality and joy to listen too , but it was never agressive...the Electrocopaniet 25 watt class A i bought later was in another leage.......and a real pleasure to listen too.

my hifi nerd buddy hooked me up with this amp,he recapped,he said its good for another 20 years,i only paid $200 only flaw is no knobs on the left/right levalers...but mine is a pm-1.5 total watts is 1,200,its pushing 600 watts right now into homemade 6 ohm speakers

I love your channel, brother! 👍🎶💜🎵😊 I’d much rather look at older gear that was made with some integrity. I’ve repaired, recapped, upgraded, and modified many older amplifiers. I fully refurbished my Marantz 2220B, which is in my system now with a Tavish tube ***phono pre, then into a pair of either Tekton Pendragons or Klipsch Forte speakers, which are both about 95dB sensitivity. I swapped the old parts in the X-over for nice caps, resistor, internal wiring, etc. in the Fortes. I also run my Elekit 300B amp a lot. 8 wpc is plenty to drive either of the speakers. Mixing new with old can yield amazing results. ***Ive got some really nice turntables, but I always go back to my (in beautiful condition) Technics SL1200 M3D with upgrades and modifications from Kevin at KAB. If you use a 1200, you need to check him out. I’ve even got a 2nd turntable only for mono records, while my Technics is set for stereo, unless I pressed the mono button on the Marantz, but my method sounds better, IMO

Thanks for this! I currently have a DH -120 (the baby version of this amp). I replaced some resistors that are known for overheating, the power supply caps, and the awful aluminum input sockets. I am using a streamer that allows me to crossover to a subwoofer, so the 60W per channel isnt an issue. It sounds pretty nice to me--but I do envy the DH-220! (I do have an Adcom 545mkII that another commenter asked about--if I pay for shipping, would you consider putting it on the bench for a review?)

I've got a XL600 which sounds great. As I understand it, the DH series predated the XL.

Great speakers. The mids and treble might lack the transparency and refinement of modern speakers but in terms of scale and dynamics, they keep up with very costly modern speakers. You would have to pay a lot of money to get bass performance like the 250TI in this day. Once the woofer is repaired you really should get them back for a proper demo.

Looks like some newer caps on the boards. Has this amp been re-capped or modified in any way? I have 3 of these DH-220's that I bought cheap on ebay and repaired. I also just got a QuantAsylum QA403 for myself so I'll be learning how to use it by testing one of my DH-220's soon.