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@rahulpatelgujratahmedabad3497 21 күн бұрын
🅰️🅱️🕉️🕉️GOOD TEACHING FOR YOUR CHANNEL🚦THANK YOU SO MUCH VERY VERY GOOD 👌👍👌👍💃💃💃😁😀😂😝😝
@gpa4016 23 күн бұрын
nice noodling around the keyboard
@DigitalArtDeco 23 күн бұрын
Thank you very much!
@mackie32x4 24 күн бұрын
I would love to once more experience my JD-800 but sadly the keys are stuck and no one qualified in Jersey to restore. TY Roland for chosing red.
@Magnus_Loov 24 күн бұрын
The Roland Cloud JD-800 is a perfect replica of it since it is a 100% digital and Roland themselves made it. You could try to map the sliders and buttons on your "keystuck" JD-800 to that and you have the same thing with an added bonus that you can save every sound together with the song in your daw. And (almost) unlimited instances of different sounds at the same time. That is, if the stuck keys isn't in blocking the sending of the control messages from the sliders on the JD-800.
@mackie32x4 24 күн бұрын
@@Magnus_Loov Damn!! I did not even think of that. And probably cheaper than refurbing. TY!! And I had 2 and sold one as the keybed was a stuck mess!!!
@vjrei 22 күн бұрын
You can do it yourself just fine. Don't be lazy, is the easiest keyboard to fix.
@Questy33 Ай бұрын
Can you tell me where small spring lug bar went? It looked the last thing you replaced, before sealing the unit up.
@DigitalArtDeco 27 күн бұрын
Thank you for watching my video and leaving a comment! I noticed that you mentioned a small spring lug bar and asked where it went. I'd like to make sure I understand your question fully, so I can provide the best response. Could you please clarify which specific part you're referring to? If possible, it would be helpful if you could provide the timestamp in the video where you saw this part. This way, I can review that section and give you a detailed answer. Thanks again for your interest, and I look forward to your reply!
@Questy33 27 күн бұрын
@@DigitalArtDeco It’s around the time stamp of 16:18 , you are holding the little spring lug in your hand? I was just wondering where it popped out from & where it needs to go back please?
@DigitalArtDeco 26 күн бұрын
@@Questy33 This is the metal pin that holds the strap. The metal pin is inserted into a slot under the handle before the case is screwed shut. Best seen at time stamp 18:44 .
@Questy33 26 күн бұрын
@@DigitalArtDeco Cheers, thanks very much for the info & excellent video, and taking the time to reply, very much appreciated.
@based_will Ай бұрын
Thanks for making this video, it shows me that I definitely won’t be doing this mod. The amount you need to cut out of the shell is absurd! I’d probably make the same mistake as you. I’m going to go for the non laminated screen.
@frediemarkhayes9137 Ай бұрын
Excellent video, great skills there
@andyvan5692 3 ай бұрын
one tip, as you are screwing into plastic, after you have lostened the screws, do them back up with a jewellers screwdriver so you only use finger tip tension, not your whole hand, which over torques the thread stripping it. the same thing is done by people servicing computers, I phones, etc. as they are micro mechanics, dealing with small and delicate parts.
@BavarianM 3 ай бұрын
Borders look better
@paulohenriquecarvalhomoura1503 5 ай бұрын
Como saber se o Diodo P6KE18CA, está bom? Ou aberto?
@autoy 5 ай бұрын
Great video. Mine is also a BA662 version. In these early units there’s an issue where the LFO will leak into the audio output when the filter mod amount is set high and LFO speed is audio rate. Have you noticed this in your unit? Cheers.
@daz4627 5 ай бұрын
Really excellent work ... I've recapped many of my synths but I've stayed away from CMOS chips (ANY chips for that matter)... maybe I'll get brave and try and do a complete service one day ... great job 🙂
@DigitalArtDeco 5 ай бұрын
Thanks!
@labouch 5 ай бұрын
Watching closely as mine needs work.. thanks for uploading this
@WinrichNaujoks 6 ай бұрын
Hello, I'd like to make some of these myself and I'm trying to find the parts. It seems the inductor XAL5050-562MEB is not available any more. Is there a replacement? Also, what is the part called you used for the contact pins?
@Retrato_lo_Retro 6 ай бұрын
nice like 36
@daz4627 6 ай бұрын
Good luck with the JP-4 restoration... it's an oldie bit a goodie. These type of repair videos are a great reference source if we're ever in the same situation ... I replaced the dull green LEDs on my old Yamaha An1X on the weekend with much brighter orange LEDs and everything I needed to know was posted on YT.
@samuellbronkowicz 6 ай бұрын
looking forward to this! i have a jp4 where the only sound im getting out is the LFO, no voices can be heard. would like to diagnose the problem of this beast!
@SweetBlu 6 ай бұрын
I made a template on my 3d printer so I could get a perfect sizing for this.
@raihanahmed683 7 ай бұрын
Fatiha for Sultan mehmed Rahimullah
@michaelbush358 7 ай бұрын
I am restoring my old vic and would love to have one of these. Do you still have any of them?
@2kBofFun 8 ай бұрын
One more question: how did you open it?
@2kBofFun 8 ай бұрын
With all the "epoxy" talk it sounded hard to fix, but this actually looks pretty easy. Seeing this I envision an even easier fix: remove the PCB completely and put this piece inside: IRM-10-5 Meanwell PCB all-in-one switching PSU.
@DigitalArtDeco 8 ай бұрын
Hello, with some PSUs it is easier, with others it is not. Mine here was very easy to open, but I have also had some that were very difficult to open. Sometimes too much epoxy has been filled in, which makes reworking even more difficult. The idea with the IRM-10-5 Meanwell is a good one. However, this model has a ripple of 200 mVpp, which is very high. Computer chips from the early 80s are sensitive and should not be exposed to high ripple for too long. In another video, however, I followed a similar idea and installed a voltage regulator that had a ripple of about 20mVpp.
@archglencoe8557 8 ай бұрын
hi any chance u could tell me where the long silver Pin at 16 minutes 12 seconds places inside the meter, please, many thanx M
@DigitalArtDeco 8 ай бұрын
It is the silver PIN for the collar. You can see how to attach it from minute 18:40.
@Blehstor 8 ай бұрын
man, cutting the plastic is horrible.. did it like 4 or 5 times.. im still waiting for factory-made plastic shells for these laminated screens..
@jogrev 9 ай бұрын
Thank you for the video. Today I received from a cinematographer friend, a Minolta Spotmeter F and a Minolta Autometer IV F. Neither of them are working. The display goes blank. So I will use your video as a reference to review the power button cables, their cables and connections. Thank you!
@wcgems 9 ай бұрын
What would be cool is a sided by side comparison of the old one and this upgrade.
@W3FIQ 9 ай бұрын
We hear your mic on but you can’t talk?
@gabrielvalencia7647 10 ай бұрын
How's the battery draw on this mod? How many watts?
@DustinWatts 10 ай бұрын
Great job on the design and PCB's. Unfortunately, the next part of this video is missing. I was really looking forward on seeing how you got along!
@edsinclair4047 Жыл бұрын
Does anyone know what The Component is? Tiny nuclear reactor?
@DigitalArtDeco Жыл бұрын
It's a coil. 😄
@cherylhess6068 Жыл бұрын
Hi, I was so happy to find your video. I recently bought one of these on Marketplace and it worked when I tested but when I went to use it on a shoot a month or so later the measuring button does not work. All the other functions seem to be fine. I can change settings as needed but when I press the measuring button it always reads "0". I can see the switch assembly clearly at 5:00 in your video. Any tips on how I might repair it? What I should look for. I had a similar problem with an old Minolta incident meter where the unit worked but the on/off button did not function (I could power up by popping the battery in and out). I successfully repaired that by disassembling and cleaning the trace with contact cleaner. Maybe this one functions in a similar way? THanks.
@DigitalArtDeco Жыл бұрын
Hello and thank you for your question. The problem with the pushbutton could be quite banal. It is possible that a cable on the pushbutton has come loose. These devices are over 30 years old and it can happen that the solder joints break. Maybe you should just open the unit and see if any of the cables are hanging freely. My guess would be the cables on the pushbutton. One of them could be loose. Then just solder it back to the right place.
@cherylhess6068 Жыл бұрын
Thanks for the quick reply! I will give it a go and report back. :)@@DigitalArtDeco
@randallstewart1224 Жыл бұрын
Now I know how to get in there if my Spot-F ever goes down. I would also take a swab with some alcohol on the tip to clean off the inside ends of those contact switches or buttons, just in case one of them was touched and picked up some hand-oil while working in the insides.
@maxvortex3494 Жыл бұрын
Hello. I've just received mine, but my viewfinder is different...Some Minolta F spotmeters have flat viewfinders, some of them have protruding one. Why it's like that ? Also, I don't know how to turn eyepiece to make a dot a bit sharper inside a viewfinder, do you know anything about it maybe ?
@DigitalArtDeco Жыл бұрын
The viewfinder should be rotatable to focus the spot. If it is not, please check if it is modified. Possibly there is also a previous unsuccessful repair?
@maxvortex3494 Жыл бұрын
@@DigitalArtDeco Thanks for the answer. I don't think there is a way to check if it's been modified. I thought that maybe there are a few versions of this lightmeter, and mine hasn't got this option to turn viewfinder.. It's rigid. Also, I'm not sure if it's taking correct measurements. If I got it right, the quickest way to measure the scene is to point it, shoot it, and reading shoud be on display, am I right ? First you need to set up shutter speed, let's say 1/60s, and later you can find desired combination of aperture and shutter speed by pressing arrows ? But if the reading of Aperture shows 5.6 and 1 (little decimal 1) - whats the Aperture value actually ? I compared the values it's giving me with my inside -a-camera lightmeter, and they are different..............
@thesweets1744 Жыл бұрын
No audio, waste of time!
@stevenclynes4617 Жыл бұрын
I’d like to know where you got the screen and the item/part number.
@DigitalArtDeco Жыл бұрын
Just search for "Game gear lcd" on e.g. Aliexpress. You will find what you are looking for.👍
@GameInterest Жыл бұрын
Brilliant. Instant sub.
@datboitmic Жыл бұрын
Great video! I bought a game gear micro and the screen broke. I tried to fix it with a screen from a smart watch, and the lcd light came on but no image. Maybe one day you can do a screen mod on that since there are no replacement parts available? I’d love to see it. Thank you.
@Blehstor 8 ай бұрын
the screen broke itself..?
@brandonstokes392 Жыл бұрын
Awesome job!! 🎮
@renguney Жыл бұрын
I have one and it has the same defect. Nobody could fix it sadly.
@christopherleubner6633 Жыл бұрын
Use a fuse before a TVS diode and a common mode choke followed by a capacitor after that. Mild spikes get clipped, but major ones cause crowbar effect. You can also use a FET follower that cuts the power when the TVS cuts in and trigger a crowbar circuit with a super fast transit time. I used circuits like that for protection of RF amplifiers.
@RIsKmusic_1 Жыл бұрын
Do you sell the pcbs?
@DigitalArtDeco Жыл бұрын
No, but I will put the complete project on github soon as open Hardware.😉
@BaruJanu Жыл бұрын
Great stuff! Are you planning on selling it? Cheers
@DigitalArtDeco Жыл бұрын
Thanks! But I am not selling it, sorry. 😉
@francishenderson7867 Жыл бұрын
ｐｒｏｍｏｓｍ 🤪
@adris5129 2 жыл бұрын
Hello. Really great tracing, congratulations. Would you sell pcbs? Thanks. Adrien
@DigitalArtDeco 2 жыл бұрын
Hello and thank you for your comment. Please contact me with a PM.
@haidernaqvi92110 2 жыл бұрын
Masha Allah Aye muslimo ka Garv se sir uuncha karne wale, Rasul(saw) ki Peshangoi Ko PURA karne wale Mera Salam ho Ap par India
@DF13939 2 жыл бұрын
What is the amp on that fuse???
@dairyfarmingofficial7413 2 жыл бұрын
nicc work
@GadgetUK164 3 жыл бұрын
Excellent video! Great job swapping these out! People still continue to fit ceramics in place of electrolytics and it really annoys me.
@DigitalArtDeco 3 жыл бұрын
Thanks for your comment. I'm very happy that you like the video.
@BriansModelTrains 3 жыл бұрын
Great idea. Maybe turn the old badge into a fridge magnet.
@BriansModelTrains 3 жыл бұрын
Hello - thanks for your video. I am replacing the voltage regulator on my old Vic 20 and then I saw you replacing both on the 1541 disk drive. I bought a PSU5 from EZSBC for the Vic 20 and was thinking about replacing one on the 1541 but I cannot find a similar replacement for the 12 volt. Would you sell me a set? I like repairing the 1541 drives as I also repair Commodore 64's as a hobby.
@DigitalArtDeco 3 жыл бұрын
Hello and thank you for your message. You are right, unfortunately there are no 12V regulators in TO-3 form. Therefore I have planned and assembled the regulators myself. They work very efficiently and safely. No heat is generated! I have also sold these regulators to a few interested people at cost price. Unfortunately I have only a small stock of the microchips needed to make this regulator work. But for two pieces it should be enough for you. :-) Where are you from? Please write me a private mail!
@BriansModelTrains 3 жыл бұрын
@@DigitalArtDeco Thanks - I sent you an email. Initially I could not get your contact info on KZbin as Fedora Linux on my laptop did not like the captcha API. :(
@alizohanpathan3290 3 жыл бұрын
Verily You shall conquer Constantinople what a wonderful leader will her leader be and what a wonderful army will that army be