What everyone needs to realize is that the average 6.2 & 6.5 diesel is 30+ years old. Sometimes, it's older than the person who owns it. Rarely does an engine last that long in an everyday driver.

I wanna see what a Suretrac AP looks like 🤩 there are plenty on ebay, but I’ve never seen one up-close.

Hi, I'm trying to run mine off of my RV converter. It reads 12.5 volts DC output, but the heater is reading it at 18+ volts. Any thoughts? Thank you Ken

Can you swap from a lsd to a open diff .just by swapping the insides or do you need to swap the entire housing

I see starter fluid will not work if injection pump is not good

19:25 You read 118mm when it is 108mm. You made a similar misreading at the rear.

Very cool. Thank you! Think I will do the same. Now I just have to make sure as soon as we lose power I have some way to power it to atleast let it cool down so it doesn't melt everything.

Do you have anything on Subaru Forester SF rear camber adjustment?

Geat information. Very detailed. Thank you!

what do you do if you have a electric injection pump and you put the manual injection pump. Do you have to do any upgrades to the 4160e transmission to work?

nice job of explaining how an injection pump works, thank you very helpful.

Mine is a 6.2 but it looks pretty much like yours. Mine sounds just like yours after bleeding the system. but it might just need a injection pump, but it rans good for 1000s of miles then does the air in the system again, I bleed it then it goes for another 1000 or so miles.

Who FARTED LOL?

Do you know if the axels for the female R160 and the "R150 Oddball" have the same number of splines on the wheel hub side? I've got a 2005 Legacy with the oddball diff that had some sort of spectacular failure that cracked the casing in two places and I'm having a real hard time finding a replacement. There seem to be tons of the smooth cover version available and I may have to do a swap of out necessity. I'm just curious if I'm going to have to swap the wheel hubs as well.

Great video, thank you!

Did you adjust your airflow / fuel rate? I imagine you'd have to reduce the fuel rate and increase the air-rate significantly to run successfully on WMO?

If you blur your vision, the marks on the table in the bottom left look like a dog

Super found a video telling me I can install a sway bar in my Impreza, thanks 😁

Hello. Great video. I had a mechanic replace timing kit on 1995 Impreza ej18, 165,000 miles. Then, 6 months, 2,000 miles later, i have 76psi compression in cylinders 2 and 4 (drivers side head). It starts fine and will drive but is a slug. No overheating or oil/coolant leaking. Good spark plugs/coil. Just half the compression it should have on that one head. Could bad timing cause both of those cylinders (2/4) not to have compression? How could I do a cursory check on the timing marks, in my driveway? Thanks!

Could I plug this power supply into my solar generator?

Great video! My pump is leaking from the o-ring between the head and the body, and this video let me know what needs to come out before I can separate the head from the body. Thanks!

Wat is z bung hole?

It's not the injector pumps that suck on these GM diesel trucks. They're actually fine from what I've heard. It's the weak lift pumps they furnished these trucks with that cause the injector pumps to fail. Detroit Diesel designed a really good power plant to begin with and then GM cheaped out and furnished them with under-dimensioned components all around until they were basically transformed into something quite unreliable. For one thing, the lift pumps on these don't move enough fuel to supply the injector pumps with enough to run properly. So the IPs break down way ahead of time due to that. Getting a proper LP rated for these types of engines is one of the first and most important upgrades people tend to perform on their 6.2/6.5s. I compiled a sort of upgrade list that might be useful. I'm not an expert or anything but I've been researching the 6.5 turbo diesel a lot lately. Maybe this could help you or someone, I hope! What I've learned so far is that these seem to be the most critical components that need replacement/upgrading to make these engines really reliable: 1. Pump Mounted Driver (PMD) relocation (on 94 and newer, with electronic engine control) 2. Lift pump (People say the marine pumps are the way to go?) 3. Harmonic balancer (Fluidampr) 4. Main belt pulley (Leroy Diesel) 5. Fuel filter (I think you did that one already. Otherwise FASS makes good stuff. I think they also do a kit with a proper LP included) 6. Cooling. Duramax radiator fan, stronger water pump, etc 7. Some people say to get rid of the vacuum pump altogether because they apparently suck and will fail and cause issues along the drive belt. 8. Oil cooling hoses, because factory ones apparently break down easily. Other things to do that might not be as critical but makes them run better/more reliable would be things like this: 1. Intake/Exhaust upgrades 2. Headbolts ---> head studs (Quadstar Tuning ARP) 3. Injection pre-cup upgrade 4. Forged crankshaft, like Detroit intended (instead of the much weaker cast metal shafts that GM put in them) At Leroy Diesel's home page they say something similar to what I've compiled here. They're the experts, not me, but I thought I'd share what I've gathered from a bunch of people here on YT. leroydiesel.com/

are these good splitters

правый- 150-ый

I thought this was supposed to be done at TDC for #1 piston

The 99 Subaru 2.2 IS INTERFERENCE.

Wonder what hapens when power is cut and heater is not properly cool down does it melt the plastic housing?

The new 2020 diffs are r167 compared to the older r160. Are those compatible to use on the older wrx chasis? I was unable to find any info as if they are backwards compatible.

I have a 220 to 12 V converter for wall outlet. The heater I intend to buy needs 15 A, wouldn't this do if the converter provides this?

I wired a heavy duty 12v accessory plug to a jump pack but just bought one of these. I’m going it wire a female accessory plug to it so anything I need a 12 volt supply to I can use.

great video, thanks for sharing. been thinking about doing the same thing just for my own personal knowledge..

I have a 1990 Honda Accord Sedan that has a seat belt just like this. The passenger side almost always stays stuck forward. Every once in awhile, it will move back. What I did was unplug the fuse that says passive motor and that kept it in its back position. I’m not sure what’s really wrong with it. I haven’t looked at it yet.

I need to install one for my AFR gauge but my intake manifold has already an O2 sensor for the ECM. Shall I replace it with the one for the AFR ? Or shall I drill an extra hole ?? Thanks

I thought it should be mounted at a specific angle (10 degree) ?

Getting ready to change the pump on my 93 great video.

What step did you stop on with the step bit? Like how wide does the bung hole need to be?

I need this in my french alps !

I have a regulated power supply similar to one you have think same one, but will hook to a backup power source or UPS setup to ensure unit cools down if power fails while running. Location unit will be hooked up has frequent power outages in the cold months. Want to ensure it has proper cool down in case of power outage, I will run unit in my wood shop only when I am present so can be around to shut unit down. Perhaps, I can figure way with Arduino setup to auto power unit down in power outage with some type of line power sensor tied into an Arduino unit. Maybe some type of gated backup power battery supplied, will figure out when I get unit installed in coming week or two. Read somewhere about making simple UPS with NAND ICs and a some relays, think I could easily add in a built in timer via simple Arduino type setup to this unit if I make it myself.

Why not just keep a trickle charger on your battery? The way you have , It if the power goes out your diesel heater will melt its electronics when the fan stops. Could possibly even catch on fire..🔥🔥🔥

Nice video. I am going to do the same job on my Subaru Impreza wrx sti but with the engine in the vehicle. Also I won't be using any kind of lubrication as I have had better success getting the shaving blown out and not sticking to the internals. If it wasn't aluminium then it would be better to use grease. Thanks for your video

There's simply too much stuff in waste oil that won't burn. I don't see mixes as fixing that.

Could you also have a backup battery hooked up in-case a power outage

How did you connect that 12v cigarette plug coz it did not come with the heater??

Amazing video on how to change a flange. Could someone tell me what Propshaft I would need that would fit a legacy spec B gearbox and a R160 diff on a GC8 my99 turbo 2.0?

What about the oil that leaks out when you open the flange or cover? How does this get topped up?

The engineers that put those Allen bolts in there 😳

this is exactly what i needed to see and its amazingly well produced. thank you

Thanks for sharing,im wondering if is working with mix 50/50 with hydraulic food oil(food industry) and i think is vegetable. It is used but dont look black like engine burned oil ,lokks like new engine oil. I dont know what to do...

I have this same log splitter I picked up and the pump was apart. do you have any info on how the pump goes together I cant find any info on it