it's a RIDETECH bolt in 4-link kit with their Coilovers so you're looking at coilovers now not shocks. Hope that answers the Q. the car runs stock tubs and 255's and is 1000x better with the links and coils

@@sfraserusa thanks!! I love the look!!

How do you like the ride quality of the Ridetech 4-link? I'm undecided on which way to go, I want a good riding car that handling but I will never take it to a track, I've ridden in a friends 69 with full DSE, great handling car but the ride is harsh. I'm reading your build thread now, thanks for the information! @@sfraserusa

@@Enjoytheinbetween : The ride quality on my car is awesome so YES. My z28 is more touring vs track - so it's really nice., The ride tech 4-link can be easily adjusted either way since their coil springs come in so many load ratings (each spring is rated on so many #'s) you can change them out quickly (vs a leaf spring) even if you want to add stiffer springs for a weekend, some good tires, and go to the track - their coils cost $90 each.....so worth it. I run their coil overs on my full proTour 67SS with a TCI chassis. For the Z28 build I spoke to their tech's at length describing my car and they selected the coil rates/weight. I don't even know what they are, but they're butter. The car hooks, goes around corners and rides 100% better than the very good leaf springs that were in there before. The only thing I would do different on my car is not use their R-joint (it's an upgraded Heim joint) and run bushings on the ends instead. I do get some noise transfer and feel small vibrations from those hard links. You want them on a track car, but for me on a touring car I would go with Poly bushings. The kit was great, easy install, non invasive and it was ALL there with great instructions. You will need to weld tabs on the axle, or get their Axle housing with pre welded tabs (worth the money if you don['t want to weld under the car measure, setup etc...). I like the DSE as well, but the ride tech comes right out if the car even has to go back to springs and be a museum piece. All this is documented in detail on the car's build thread mentioned in description. Hope this helps!!

@@Enjoytheinbetween Yes get the Ridetech!! I wrote a reply long but it's gone.. I'm not the most savvy user here.....

As the saying goes; If you have to ask....

Car is on eBay

Yet another arm chair jockey troll with NO CARs of his own on the internet for others to critique......

I guess now days if you spend $100K and 800 hours to fully restore a car, some people think it's "destroying it" vs not keeping it alive and on the road for another 25+ years? I don't see your cars on this site so I can't add my opinions to them. If you take an extra couple of minutes to read the story on this car - you may better understand the direction of this build. I bought this car as a "roller" without an engine. If it had even a non matching but date correct DZ-302 it would be in this car. Those engines are more expensive than an LS swap, so I went the less expensive route. If you can find me the DZ302 that matches this car I'll give you market $$ for it and pull this LS out. As it sits, this car is more valuable and nicer to drive than a numbers matching DZ car. Keeping this old Pony car on the road and not hidden in some hoard seems to me and other enthusiasts a win, not a loss, for this Z28. I still welcome the comment either way, so thank you.

Not bragging, but I have a 1969 Z/28 with 8600 miles bought when I was 19, and took it off the road, because I knew 'we' were not gonna survive .Pickled the engine and stored it 50 years in a garage. Original DZ and M22. Back on the road and updating tires, gas tank, brakes, wires, etc. Now that I read your story, it makes sense. Good on ya 👍

@@WELLRESPECTEDAPE Glad you're getting your Z back on the road!! I have not tasted pickled DZ302 but I can only imagine it tastes like victory!

Pickled 302's are tastier than a roasted 302 🤪👍

😂. You would get to work, just faster.

Wow good eye!!! They're shorty rally wheel derby caps. Either Classic industries or summit....I forget

@sfraserusa A friend made a set of "cones" of billet aluminum and they looked SICK. Never seen another set like them.

Thank you Kevin for the kind words

Thank you Carlos!!

Much Thanks sixty8!!

Thank You !!!

Thanks Cliff!! I saw your '69 it's looking menacing!

Short answer: Yes. This body is bone stock, no custom fab. That being said I had professionals replace/cut and weld in the floor, quarters, then do full body and paint. The rest is basically bolt in with a ton of complex, modern electronics. There's a few small things here and there that will require you to have a small Mig (little custom brackets etc. ) so for the most part it's just hours and hours. The full build is documented in description below the video

@@sfraserusa Awesome. Thanks for the info!

Thanks ✌️

Me myself and I. Jethro 😄

Hi Shannon, thanks! It was stock'ish - 2200 or 2300 in a BowtieTransmission's 700R4 stage3. Cam (i dont remember specs) was not that big/revvy more low hit on torque, so it worked well. Bigger cam, prob get smaller one..

@@sfraserusa Thanks for the reply....mine is in a Chevelle so about the same weight actually maybe 100-200 lbs difference....I also have a 383...cam is high .500's lift on intake and exhaust. Never had it dynoed but its most likely around same HP as yours est. 450-500. I have a built turbo 400 which is a good trans but I want OD and I want the kickdown/detent like yours as its just a street car. Love the way yours runs, barks second and has OD. Awesome car.

Yes, FFR kit headers and exhaust. It's horrible loud. I was going to fab up some corvette or Boig"quiet" single pipes that have more sound supression. The dual pipes look great but are super loud and exit just under your head. I never had time to track the car, and if I was to race it I'd still do something to route the noise elsewhere.

Adrian when I sold it it was stock. if you go to trifive forum I made a post on swapping in an Explorer 8.8 super cheap and can 4 link/coilovers too (also cheap) if you want. You just need .25" wheel spacers if running ralley wheels, otherwise can fit a good size custom or backspaced wheel it there with stock tubs as the 8.8 is .5" narrower than the stock trifive rear end. Hope that helps, I would have linked an 8.8 if I kept the car. The LS1 will eventually kill the stock rear end for sure.

Jethro Thirteen thanks for the info

Yes Shawn, I will have the '67 Camaro on PT sometime hopefully soon. I keep getting distracted by other builds. Just finished '72 Bronco RestoMod, (will have a video on that but not posting it on the forums) then i'll be back to the '67 ZL1/LSA Camaro build. It will be on PT as soon as I have some free time at nights, after work, after working on cars and time for computer stuff :)

Don't forget earplugs......in the car too.

Dat Right D Truck! This engine was rated at 450ft lbs/450hp, felt like + 485ft lbs. in a 3,300lb car.

I wish. Sold it couple years ago to a collector. He drove it one, spun it out and parked it :)

You are correct DD!

+mrpancholocoable No short answer and the rules change daily. you will need to do your own research, go to a smog referee, and then find a donar car/parts that are all OEM smog. Cheaper and easier to buy pre'75 in CA

+Akilleon Sampson Maybe Mid 90's? It was a pick n pull, and I don't really know those cars, I just looked for one that was small and had the arm attached. I think they are pretty similar late 80's to late 90's - You just need a small compact wiper motor - I haven't looked at honda's etc. but they may work too. If you can fit it under the cowl, and the arm is not too long, you can make it work in your camaro no matter the donor. Whatever you use you'll have to custom fab the mounting, and graft the original camaro arm onto the donor arm so it will connect to the camaro wiper transmission. It will take several tries, but good payoff. I like it more than the late model camaro/Detroit speed DSE setup since you don't see the motor at all, and it will cost you $20 and a couple hours of Fab.

+Branon Fontaine It's mostly your labor. You can buy a totaled 1999 or 1998 Ford Exploder and use the drivetarin, fuel system etc. actually better than the Mustang since the accessories are high up, and you can use the power steering pump with the bronco box. I bought one for my next build for $1000. The rest will be my labor - plan on 600-1000 hours not counting paint and $10K to $50K depending on how crazy you want to go with parts. You can always do a little at a time if you're on a budget., good planning will get you there do not think you need a fat bank account to get it done. It helps for sure, but you can do every single mod, rebuild, etc. yourself if you take the time.

+Courtlandt Spear Sorry for the YEAR long delay on responding to this.... It's a 302/carburated SBF with pretty big cam, 10:5 compression and almost open exhaust. Car was REALLY loud - I had to wear earplugs inside my helmet when I drove it!

Good question... I need to go back and see since I can't get the wiring right without knowing which year. I plan to pull another as well for my '69 camaro build, and maybe a third for my buddy's '68 know that I have the bracket templated, and will double check the necessary arm length on the '69 car. If all goes well, I'll fab up 10 brackets on throw them on eBay with some instructions for DIY hot rodders. The turnkey "Raingear" under cowl Camaro kit is amazing, but $460 is past my budget :-( I've probably spent more hours trying to figure wiring vs just buying the Raingear kit at this point.