What is the common muffler mod?

"Anyone can do this in their driveway... So the first thing we did was pull it into the shop and get it on the lift" That line made me bust out laughing! If I had a lift, I wouldn't be doing it in the driveway! LOL! Love the content!

Cannot wait to hear the brakes on this go EEEEEE again

Favorite automotive, machine shop, fire alarm expert channel on KZbin!

0-160 in 21 seconds 🔥

632 swap

This car will do 0 to 60 in first gear

I have the cut out set up on my C6. I really don't use it so is there a simple way to lock it in the quiet mode? Can I ask one more question? Is it possible that the exhaust cut out could be causing a parasitic drain on my battery? ( I pulled the fuse on it, and it went to the loud mode.)

this is amazing. Good work!

Awesome! Thanks!

As a fire alarm collector, the keys are for as you said, to tell if it’s pulled or not. But it’s also a security and safety function. Your pull station has a toggle button. When pressed, it’s normal, when the button is pressed out, it’s activated. If the pull stations didn’t have a key, you can kinda foreshadow the outcome. Great video!

no video .

Insane what 505 hp in a lightweight car can do

That's such a cool halloween idea, those kids will remember that!

My c5 03 6 speed is the same speed

This just happened to me 😢😢 I'm literally upset that gm can't take responsibility

It is, so whoever pulled it cannot just reset it

Explosion-proof devices are generallly not waterproof, they simply have a very long physical path for any vapors or gasses to follow to reach a possible source of ignition. Probably not the best idea to use a pull station as a toy.

Not only is this designed so that any spark from the switch will not see off an explosive environment around it, there is a second layer to the design. The box is so sturdy that if the seals fail and the flammable/explosive vapor leaks into the box and gets set off, the box is sturdy enough to contain the explosion and prevent it from setting off the whole environment. That's the intrinsically safe part, even a single failure wont blow up your whole plant.

Pull stations are rated for 24 volts not 120 volt applications. Great video and nice station

These C6 Z06s are so badass.

could be for factories where explosions are possible

Great. Now I want a fire alarm pull station light switch.

SO I'm a Mechanical engineer and i work in failure analysis, and reliability. My guess without getting the all measurements I'm gonna guess a fatigue failure of the valve. Fatigue life is very fickle, but essentially the fatigue life is dependent on the number of cycles, and the amplitude of the cycles. Titanium unlike steel does not have an infinite fatigue life when the amplitude is kept within the elastic range of the material. I'm and guessing that you had a valve that had slightly OOS runout and that fatigue built up and finally let go on you. This failure mode will not be picked up by oil analysis. As for build suggestion I'm a fan of High RPM builds, area under the curve is a great trade off for peak HP. Especially when you consider that you can shift less often. You could be a full on MAD LAD and do a hybrid Renasis Rotary build with water meth induction and turbo. Lighten the rotors and balance the eccentric shaft for an 11-11.5K RPM motor that pulls 450hp, its gonna scream and be an absolute Blast to drive!

i just picked up an 06 and am new to the corvette world. ..... when changing modes, is there any difference in ride quality, exhaust note or steering input?

Not one comment about doing a 160mph pull in a vette listening to Olivia Rodrigo lol

The reason you need the key to reset pull stations is first of all not every control panel is addressable or kept up to date when the buildings are changed meaning not being able to reset the pull station without the key makes it easier to figure out which pull station was activated just by looking at it also it can help if your troubleshooting a nuisance or false alarm because you can easily see if it was someone pulling the pull station vs a fault in the wiring

Explosion proof means in electrical terms not that it will survive a blast but that if it's located in an area where you might have flammable/explosive vapors or dusts activating it will not create a spark that ignites the atmosphere, think things like chemical processing areas, fuel stations, refineries, explosive storage magazines at a quarry, grain silos etc

Would be amazing... But that hood is sooooo long. Spoiled by my MR2, fr-s, RX8 etc...

"Intrinsically safe" is the main keyword here. Anywhere you have a situation where there could be stuff in the air that's combustible (e g. Oil refinery, chemical plant, grain processing), the fire, building, HVAC, and electrical codes go bananas trying to prevent ANY chance of a spark causing an explosion. It's amazingly onerous to comply with as you've discovered with this relatively straightforward pull station (and for good reason given the risks to life and capital investment). Theres all sorts of intristincally safe devices and containers if you look around. Every company that works with industrial plants and automation a lot will have special models.

I would just ask a steel shop to cut the big muffle off, save the rips and add a pipe so the stock loock stay but the mufflers are no longer there

the main reason pull stations use a special tool or key is so people don't tamper with them. if pull stations didnt need anything to be reset, fall alarms would be much harder to track down because people would pull it and reset it quickly.

Did this guy really think it was something besides a sealed container to stop a spark from setting off an explosion?

There is a reason they have explosion proof, pool stations it’s because normal ones make a little ark, but if there was gas in the room that would start explosion, but the explosion proof ones don’t make a ark.

I think for the "keeping explosion in" part, Intrinsically safe pull stations are kinda for that in a sense. They prevent a spark that occurs when pulled, like how you can see a small spark when flipping a light switch, and that spark can.....ignite the gas in the building which is BAD. Fire alarm dude on YT has vid on Intrinsically safe vids

"In my case I'm gonna run it off 28VDC..." Then what would you run it *ON* (besides the 120VAC)?

Why would it be run _off_ 28V to run on "wall power" if the 28V _IS_ one version of wall power when you have a system like that wired through the building? And if it's running _off_ the 28V or some other kind of wall power, then what would it be running ON?

Man, the base box of that pull station looks like a special battery (although of course it's not one)!

My understanding is that these ruggedized pull stations are designed primarily to be electrically isolated in case there is a volatile airborne substance like fuel vapor or flour dust (yes, that is highly dangerous apparently). I believe it is supposed to be capable of withstanding a significant blunt force strike (and I suppose an explosion to some degree) without compromising the airtight seal. The fear is that sparks may ignite volatile airborne substances, especially while the pull station is operated because the contacts moving can cause a spark to occur. Also you are correct about the pull station normally being the size of the front part - on this design, the front part's normal electrical button is foregone and the button is built into the backbox instead. Normally this is attached through that big hole on the metal plate. The rugged assembly on the back is essentially a retrofit onto one of the existing conventional designs that happens to be rugged enough for such a use case.

If this is neat to you, check out explosion proof telephones as well.

Places like grain elevators or other places where flammable vapors exist. It keeps the guts separated in case of arcing in the switch.

They are used in the same environment that you need everything else explosionproof or atex

I love when I find a KZbin video that answers a question I never knew I had

Fire code requires fire alarm pull stations to require a tool to reset as they are meant to be latching devices. Which could either be a hex key, screwdriver, or a key.

Just, pull station

I have collected fire alarms for 6 years 7 if you count smoke alarms and I’ve never seen a pull station like that one

The pull station is not huge it just has a back box I have not watch teh whole video yet sorry if u corrected it

It so if it is pulled in a room made for a explosion ie chemical storage it won’t blow up outside the room

3:03 Its so no one can tamper with it

Fire alarm systems are 24-27 volts dc and the only thing in fire alarm that takes 120 ac is the fire alarm control panel FACP and that is only to power the panel and the 120 is kept separate from the fire alarm wiring