Thanks @charlesparks440. I made that fence. Its just a couple of pieces of oak fastened at either end with a gap the thickness of the square and holes for carriage bolts and wing nuts.

They usually stop laughing when they find out that particular teacher has a parent on transplant meds at home, or a kid with leukemia, or whatever. You never know what's going on in other people's lives unless they tell you .. and tbh it's not your business anyway.

Carpentry by Voygt

Thanks for the feedback. This video was made to supplement in-school training for apprentices who have been in the field 2-3 years.🙂

@@scottfleming I thought that might be the case and that it was not originally intended for public consumption. If it is part of a training series, I might suggest that each video start off with a context statement like: "This is the 5th video of an 8 video series on concrete forming. It is suggested that you watch the previous videos as a prerequisite to this video." On another subject, I saw a guy building his house who couldn't get a form work crew for his porch build so he did it himself using PVC pipe and threaded rods instead of snap-ties. This causes PVC tunnels throughout the wall. He then uses a rotary hammer drill to push out the PVC tubes. He didn't need the wall to be waterproof, so he just left the holes open. What would be the best affordable way to fill those holes, assuming a waterproofing membrane would be used? I'd want to fill the whole tunnel, not just plug the openings. It seems like closed cell expanding foam would be sufficient, cheap, and easy to apply. As you can tell, I know just enough to be dangerous!🤣

@@markstipulkoski1389 , you could use closed cell foam as you mentioned. Epoxy can be used but is expensive. Parging mix is most common. Pvc tubing is common in system forms. The tubing is cut short and spreader cones are placed on the ends. When stripped, the cones are removed, tubing stays and the are parged. This video shows it pretty nicely, I think... kzbin.info/www/bejne/nmiVl4yQa6aahZosi=Foh3kR62qBYWW-QX

The equation works for hollow cylinders of any kind - as long as they are hollow and not tapered. So yes piles, if they are hollow.

@@scottfleming what would the equation change to if it weren’t hallow ?

@@rondelaspooner9719 V=πr^2h for clarification - radius is squared

@@scottfleming thank you

I'm not sure where the 15 comes from. 13 is the Unit run of a hip on an octagonal roof. Maybe it was just a number that was picked to lay out the plumb cuts on an unequal hip/val with your framing square. It's all just proportional to the total run and total rise. So, what you use as the unit run for an unequal hip/val doesn't matter as long as it maintains a constant ratio with the total rise and run.

Thanks for the kind words!

Peterborough, ON

I appreciate the comment. It's tough to see in the video but the drawing clearly shows the hip offset from the corner. You can tell in the video that it does not run at 45 degrees. And yes, of course you need to pay attention to your height above plates (the heel). Often the difference is too great to simply adjust the birds mouth and the wall has to be built up on the steeper side. So I understand what you are saying but the drawing is fine. If your projection is equal then the fascia and corner of the building have to line up (2' out and 2' over for example), just the hip runs offset from 45.

Thanks for the comment. This layout meets current code in Ontario Canada. I can see it changing in the future though. The IRC has a minimum inside run of 6"

It appears this is a training facility for apprentices. It’s good for apprentices to develop building and tool skills doing it the old school way. Also there are so many types of formwork systems they can’t teach them all. To move from the more skilful old school to easy systems is easy. Not so easy the other way. But the most important part is to have apprentices to learn skills and get a good understanding of the structural requirements in building. Once this is really understood, problem solving on site becomes much easier. A good carpenter or builder needs these skills.

We use perry and Docka? Systems for high rise buildings on the east coast smaller jobs with limited cranes that plywood system worked fine

@@scottschwenk9570 PERI or Doka and many other system formwork manufacturers also have systems for formwork without a crane. Anyone who educates no longer needs plywood/wooden systems, whether wall or ceiling. Today 99% of formwork work can be done with systems. The old formwork, as is currently done for walls in the USA, takes a lot of time, costs resources and is not good for the environment and climate. There are now also systems in which the frame and formwork are made entirely of plastic; it is light, stable and can be used often. This means less wood/plywood is needed, but unfortunately there is still little interest in this in the USA. During my training I also learned how formwork is only made from wood or plywood, but we no longer use it. We say “time is money” and we do most of the formwork for basements or underground car parks. A cellar measuring approximately 12m*12m made entirely of reinforced concrete (floor slab, walls and ceiling) is built in one week with 4-5 workers and a tower crane.

@@scottschwenk9570 PERI or Doka and many other system formwork manufacturers also offer systems for formwork without a crane. Those who form no longer need plywood / timber systems, whether for walls or slabs. Today, 99% of formwork work can be done with systems. The old formwork, as it is done for walls in the USA, takes a lot of time, costs resources and is not good for the environment and climate. There are now also systems where the frame and the formlining are completely made of plastic, it is light, stable and can be used often. This means that less wood / plywood is needed, but unfortunately there is still little interest in this in the USA. During my training, I also learned how formwork is made only from wood or plywood, but it is no longer used here. We say “time is money” and we make most of the formwork for basements or underground garages. A cellar of approx. 12m*12m made entirely of reinforced concrete (floor slab, walls and ceiling) is built in a week with 4-5 workers and a tower crane.

@@scottschwenk9570 P E R I or D o k a and many other system formwork manufacturers also offer systems for formwork without a crane. Those who form no longer need plywood / timber systems, whether for walls or slabs. Today, 99% of formwork work can be done with systems. The old formwork, as it is done for walls in the USA, takes a lot of time, costs resources and is not good for the environment and climate. There are now also systems where the frame and the formlining are completely made of plastic, it is light, stable and can be used often. This means that less wood / plywood is needed, but unfortunately there is still little interest in this in the USA. During my training, I also learned how formwork is made only from wood or plywood, but it is no longer used here. We say “time is money” and we make most of the formwork for basements or underground garages. A cellar of approx. 12m*12m made entirely of reinforced concrete (floor slab, walls and ceiling) is built in a week with 4-5 workers and a tower crane.

Short ends are great for low walls where lateral pressure on the formwork is minimal. Or maybe if space is limited, like a monolithic curb and stair form. Once you start getting taller forms, the pressure compounds and walers and stongbacks make it easier to maintain consistent wall thickness and straight, plumb forms.

ICF's are my favorite method for forming residential foundations. The cost is comparable and there is no stripping. I'm not sure where you are but in Ontario we need a continuous thermal break on the outside of the building envelope. This system gives us that plus its super light!

@@scottfleming thank you for your response. Im in NCal so we are in a climate zone of 9 snow is very rare. I have seen the ICFs & they look real nice to work with - I wonder how they fare in earthquake zone codes. The only foam wk Ove done is rigid foam placed b4 a radiant slab (down the sides of footings & about 30 % inward under the slab. I was surprised that the entire slab wasnt 1st insulated. Apparently not necessary - just the perimeter. Love doing formwork especially when it gets more involved its actually interesting to me. Been a carpenter 23 yrs so any deviation from the usual peaks my interest. Thx.

@@koogle612 I don't know how they perform in earthquake zones. I am guessing they would be fine as long as you had appropriate reinforcement. A radiant slab certainly needs rigid under the entire slab here. I love formwork too. Also kinda fascinated by all of the innovative things coming out of California (ex. California framing hammer, and most of the homes in Fine HomeBuilding seem to be from Cali). Seems like the world is a few steps behind California - we see these warning labels on so many products, "Known to the State of California to Cause...". Guess its fine for us to use elsewhere?🙃

What about for commercial for panels with return walls

I'm thinking the front might have a 2/12 pitch or so

@@stillhere2025 I think I understand the situation. Don't forget that you have to consider the bird's mouth. With your total rise above plates 14.5" if you have a stand (Height Above Plates - or material left in the bird' mouth at the building line) of only 2 3/16" you will have a slope on the main (front) commons of 2/12. That would make the total rise from top of fascia to top of ridge 14 5/16" and a slope on the end commons of 3 3/16 / 12. The slope of the unequal hips are 1 11/16 / 12. You can change the stand of the main commons but that would change the slope from the 2/12 of the main commons. With a projection of 12" you'd be fine with a 2 3/16" stand. To the outside of fascia the length of your rafters are: Main commons 87 3/16" End commons 55 7/8" Hips 102 9/16" length of the jacks depends on your OC spacing and actual lengths of all need to be shortened proportional to the size of your fascia stock. I hope that helps...

@@scottfleming that helps so much, thanks for replying, would it help if I cut down the ridge down a bit on each side, since it's a front porch, looking for a wider front look, thanks again

@@stillhere2025 happy to help! I think that's a great idea. I don't know how much you were thinking but if your ridge was 128" then you could have equal slope on all sides and your hips would run at 45 degrees making the layout and assembly easier. Plus it looks better from underneath if your rafters are exposed. I'm not sure you were thinking of taking that much off though... 32" from each end is a fair bit. Either way the slope is not too steep and a shorter ridge will give you more of a sweeping look.

@@scottfleming I will do that, comes out to 10' 8"

You set the bevel to your circular, saw to a 45. However, before circular saws were used, rafters were hand cut. So you would have to lay out that angle. The angle in plan view, looking down on the rafter is not a true 45 because it's a compound angle.

Hi Dillon. Yes, the hips and valleys have the same overall length. This is because they are both laid out from the fascia to the ridge and run at the same angle (parallel to each other) relative to the main ridge. They do hit the plate at different spots. The run of the hip from fascia to building line is longer than that of the valley. This extra bit of run makes up the extra rise. Hope that makes sense!

Hi Dillon. Yes the height above plate is the same as the commons on the steep side. You'll have to "drop the hip" a little and because of the angle it runs at (not 45 degrees). So its not the same as equal slope. Remember that the theoretical measurements are to the centre and that your birdsmouth will be deeper because (typically) your hips are one lumber size up from your commons and jacks. JLC has a really good article on this topic here: www.jlconline.com/how-to/roofing/joining-unequally-pitched-roofs_o

Yeah, the level of safety is the biggest change!

I would go 1 foot up to start then 2' O.C.

I made this video at the height of the pandemic at a community college.

Or really I guess a better question would be is what is the pitch of the hips?

@@chiller19100 The slope (pitch) of the hips is proportional to the total rise and run. Use ratio to find numbers that will fit on your framing square. In this example the total rise is 40" and run is 113.208". For the plumb cut, you could set your square at 8" for the rise and 22 5/8" for the run (just divide each number by 5). This is the equivalent to 4.24/12 slope. Plumb cuts for the jacks is the same as the commons for the side they are on (5/12 and 8/12). Side cuts are a different story!

@@scottfleming that was very helpful and thanks for responding! Just one more question, would you have to raise the 8/12 plate height?

Hi @@chiller19100 . Yes you do. The amount depends on the difference in slope and the projection to the fascia. In this example the projection is 1'. So the amount of rise on the 5/12 side at the plates is 5". The amount of rise on the 8/12 side is 8" so the plate needs to be built up by the difference of 3". If you make your the stand (amount of material left in the rafter at the birds mouth) equal for both slopes then just build up the plate by 3". If it was an 18" projection I would use ratio again to figure out the build up. 3" build up per foot (12") so 18 divided by 12 x 3 = how much we need to build up (4.5")

@@scottfleming you have been extremely helpful! Thank you very much