We are loving it 😀

SOLVED - I used old tube, wrapped it around the sealhead multiple times, put the loose ends between two wooden blocks which then served as a lever.

Hi @justking.4050 thanks for your message and support of our channel. Unfortunately Cannondale only offers full support for the current Ocho, even the lefty 2 parts are becoming hard to get.

@@RBC_tech I just got a fat caad 1 with lefty Olaf. What do you suggest I do to maintain longevity? Thank you for your expertise

Hi @justking.4050, wow awesome bike, you must be stoked.. Ok my advise is to have the fork serviced according to the manufacturers recommendations or every 6 months whichever comes first. Seal kits are still available but hard parts like damper shafts and stanctions are not readily available so prevention is better than cure.

@@RBC_tech I’m very excited my friend. Thank you. I plan to get it serviced immediately. Owner said the bike only has about 5 hours on it

Hi @timminehan3836 thanks for your message and support of our channel. The lefty 2 leg will also come out of the upper as the Ocho although there are some other procedures but its essentially the same. You would need the lefty 2 castle tool to remove the cartridge otherwise the lower cannot be removed. Also a special tool is needed to refit the circle clip into the fork when the lower is refitted. I don't recommend this if you don't have the tools or experience.

Hi @killabootsproduction thanks for your message and support of our channel. The cartridge you are referring to should have a recessed 3mm Allen key head which will allow you to hold the cartridge while undoing the top nut.

Hi @dannyharris7221 thanks for your message and support of our channel. Ok so the damper has come apart at the upper thread and not the thread on the air piston head. You will need to clamp the shaft protruding from the air piston with the 17,5mm soft jaw and unthread this off. You will then need to thread this onto the cartridge to allow the shaft to go through the upper air seal.

Hi @rogge3923 thanks for your message and support of the channel. You need to order this glide ring separately and it needs to be pressed in under the air can seal. The DT Swiss code is CXDXXXXZ08344S

Hi ​@@RBC_tech, thanks a lot for the partnumber!

Hi @martinmbae2688 thanks for your message and support of our channel. The DT Swiss for is a masterpiece in engineering and has a very unique set of features not present in any forks in the market currently and the fork is super compliant and supple. However if you are a hard shredder this model is not the fork for you. The newer version (2024) is way stiffer and more suited to e-bikes or hard riding

Hi @johndevine2469 thanks for your message and support of our channel. Please let me know if you have solved this problem? if not please send me an email to [email protected] and I will assist you from there.

Hi @Paulo-o6r thanks for your message and support of our channel. Please contact ND tuned in Figueira da Foz +351 233 425 265

Hi Chory1827, thanks for your message and support of our channel. Your question is really good and not many understand this reason. Fox has the same requirements for their forks with a Grip damper. The reason is oil ingestion into the damper as follows. On the air cartridge side the scraper wiper prevents most oil from being ingested into the air chamber and a little of the CGLP68 wont make a huge difference. However on the damper side the oil in the damper is the 01309-01 and any CGLP68 oil that becomes ingested into the damper will affect the damping qualities of the fork because the CGLP68 is very thick and sticky compared to the 01309-01. For the RXF38 ,m2 i recommend using the correct fluid for the damper and air sides as per the owners manual. However if you are not able to get the 01309-01 fluid you can substitute this for a 5wt oil from FUSCH or r.s.p. Keep in mind that just doing lower leg services is not good for the fork as if you are not servicing the air cartridge or the damper cartridge then you are not elimination contaminated fluid from the lower legs that has been ingested into these cartridges.

Hi Mustafae5442, thanks for your message and support of our channel. Apologies for the late reply, I was working at the Andorra Epic so just back in the office this week. Please send me a picture showing all the shims as well as the shim stack and how you have put these together and I will try to assist you remotely. please use [email protected]

@@RBC_tech ok, thanks..i will sent you today

@@RBC_tech Thank you for your help, I sent you an email.

Hi Marcins8810, thanks for your message and support of our channel. The lefty, if serviced correctly, should always have oil on the seal because the fork is upside down. However in my experience once the fork is washed and the oil is removed from the scraper seal (this is the seal lip you can see outside the seal) and the stanction then you have some stiction when the fork is used again. To understand this visualize the seal cut in half, there is a scraper seal lip that you can see then under that is another set of lips facing inwards that hold the oil inside the fork. When the fork has been washed the oil on the stanction is removed and its not easy to re-lube the scraper seal. from the internal seals. If you have ever used the windscreen wipers in you car when there is no rain, the rubber pulls on the glass and you can see its gripping the glass. this is what happens to the scraper seal after washing. So yes I highly recommend using r.s.p hyper wiper to recondition the stanction and lip seal after washing. I am not a fan of spray lube so close to the disk brake pads so be careful if you use any oil under pressure. Compress the fork a few times after lubing the stanction by the seal and then wipe off the excess oil. check the linkkzbin.info/www/bejne/mGLdq3p7dq6nhqs

Thanks Linds, I hope you have relocated well and are enjoying the summer. my email address is [email protected]

@@RBC_tech thanks! It's amazing and I got a bike now too! The trails here are insane!! 🚲🚵

Hi Robert, thanks for your message and support of our channel. Just to confirm, is the damper leaking? if not then I would not recommend opening the damper to replace the skirt seal. All that's needed is a flush out the old oil and fresh oil added to keep the damper smooth and in good working order. Also if you have the 2.1 RC2 damper then you should not need the lockout spring so if you buy the kit, the spring will not be needed. Thanks Robbie

@@RBC_tech Thanks for getting back to me; sorry yes dont need the spring. the issue is when the fork rebounds it makes a loud sucking sound. sram told me I need to replace the damper...

sorry and yes its leaking from the top on top of the adjuster knobs; if the skirt seal is the same size for the 2.1 rc2 then yes thats what i need !

Hi Robert, ok no problem, where are you based? Our minimum shipping cost for international orders is $38 so its costly just to ship the skirt seal. If there is a ND Tuned dealer close to you it would make sense for you to get from them. If not I am happy to assist you no problem.

@@RBC_tech ya that is a lot; is there a part number for the seal?

Hi Zane, thanks for your message and support of our channel. Yes you can just remove the damper without removing the lowers. Be aware that the lower nut on the damper has very thin threads and fits into the lowers with a taper so it can be difficult to remove without the specific tool. Don't forget to top up the lower leg oil with the R/S Maxima heavy lower leg oil.

@@RBC_tech Thank you!

Right?!?

Hi s.kolodzie6007, thanks for your message and support of our channel. Yes actually we were also very surprised at how much dirt and water can collect under the remote. To answer your questions, 1. since this is not a "serviceable part" we don't find any connection between the fork service and the dirt under this section other than riding in wet or dusty conditions. 2. Stick to the service recommendation from Rock Shock for your ZEB and make sure its done by a certified technician. 3. It seems that the XC charger damper with remote interface is most affected by the dirt getting in, not so much on the manual and so for never on the Charger for the ZEB so don't worry about this on your fork. Just ensure its cleaned with water with a mild bike wash using a soft cloth.

@@RBC_tech all right, thank you very much for your quick and detailed reply!

Hi yasstuto8483, thanks for your message and support of our channel. I am not sure I fully understand your question! do you mean that the lockout no longer works on the fork or that you and lost the interface for the damper?

Hi Spsoon, thanks for your message and support of our channel. Its possible to tune these shim stacks for sure but its very delicate so easy to destroy.

Hi cristianramirezargel8290 thanks for your message and support of out channel. So when you removed the damper there was a silver tube section roughly 8cm long that was still attached to the main air seal head, correct? if so this silver tube section belongs on the damper body and not connected to the main air seal head. This should be removed and refitted to the damper for it to pass through the 2 X ring seals at the top of the stanction. The damper needs this piece attached as its tapered at the bottom allowing it to pass through these seals. Trying to fit the damper without this part fitted will result in the X ring seals being cut.

@@RBC_tech Thank you very much for your reply. I will look for a way to separate the main air seal from the silver tube, I thought it was a single piece since I couldn't separate it by hand. Unfortunately I think I have already damaged the x seal of the air chamber, is it possible to replace that seal?