Hi, if you convert to B&W before sending the file to EPL there will be no colour cast. I have never seen anything in my prints, regardless which paper I used for B&W printing. Anyway, if something else works for you, that's fine, but I think my workflow is the simplest and is always free of colour cast.

I don't know what you mean. I love the fact that it is so quiet.

Yes, stepper motors can sound like that... BTW, the young ones don't even know what's a "dial-up"... 🤣🤣🤣 My slowest was a 1200bps, but I worked with 300bps as well.

Sadly, all of the PBD 40 has this issue, which could have been solved easily and fairly cheap if Bosch wanted to solve it during all these years.

@@AdaptingCamera found a solution for it ?

It's not that simple. Nothing wrong with the machine, only the blade, which Biltema replaced free of charge. People who use lubricants on this machine are illiterate, and they are many... The manual warns against doing that, this machine is NOT supposed to be lubricated. Chose the right blade speed and will not need lubrication. If you use lubrication, the oil will end up on the rubber wheels and that will make cutting worse, not better, because the blade will slide. By the way, cutting oil is for drilling, taping and milling, not for cutting with a saw... 😂😂😂

@@AdaptingCamera 💗All right thank you i understand Biltema recumbent in their app this i use balsam "terpentin" on my blades for lubrication 👍

If it's worth it for you or not is up to you. I used my machine a lot and for me it was perfectly fine to buy a quality chuck, even if the chuck was expensive. I intended to use my machine for a long time, so that was also another reason why I regarded it to be a worthwhile investment. In the end, I sold my machine and replaced with this: kzbin.info/www/bejne/a5CrhZ2LhLqmnJo but I kept the chuck, so it is used also today.

Yes, that's why I made this video: kzbin.info/www/bejne/aXrWg3x6mdVja9E and replaced it with this machine: kzbin.info/www/bejne/a5CrhZ2LhLqmnJo The big problem of the PBD 40 is the head attachment, which is very difficult to fix. Nevertheless, changing the chuck improves the quality of the machine a lot, so if anyone is intending to use the machine as long as I used it, I'd warmly recommend the change.

Sorry that you have troubles removing it. As I also said in my video, mine was also very tight and difficult to remove. I hesitated for several years also because I didn't want to risk braking it, but in the end I did manage to remove it as shown in the video. I think that unless you start hammering the allenkey or tighten it wrongly in the chuck you can remove yours just like I removed mine. Anyway, whatever you do, don't hammer the allenkey like in many KZbin video, and also don't try to heat it up. I believe that the reason why it is stuck is that you have used the machine over a long period and that causes the screw attachment to tighten more and more, and in the end it becomes very hard to unscrew it. I don't think it is glued as I said in my video. I think I was wrong about that, the screw simply self tightens because of usage. Good luck, I hope you'll manage it without damaging the axle.

@@AdaptingCamera It is a new machine which I don't like the chuck that came with it as it isn't easy to take the drill out afterwards as the unlock feature doesn't work well. My problem is that when I followed your video and tightened the Allen key in the chuck any tried to unscrew the chuck the allen key kept coming loose and when it didn't the chuck kept turning around even though I had a spanner holding the shaft spindle

Thank you for your kind words. Personally, I have no regrets, if my printer would need a replacement I'd buy a new one of the same model. I still like the printer very much and have not found any cons I didn't know about, so no surprises for me. However, I'd suggest you to read the manual before you decide in buying it. It may not meet your requirements, but personally, I am fully satisfied even today.

@AdaptingCamera thank you for answering! Yes, it seems this printer is perfect for me. Almost to good to be true, reading about all the specs. I was afraid there is some catch, regarding the build quality maybe. But as i see your answer, it seems to hold up quite well. Do you also happen to know if the print head or the ink waste box are easly replaceable? Thank you!

Hi and thanks for the comments. Yes, I believe it works with the latest version, but I have not installed the latest UCCNC, I am still running version 1.2111 because it works and I don't see the need for a newer version. Anyway, if you are a beginner, I'd recommend to use the built in probe screen, because that is supported by CNC Drive, so you better spend time learning how to use that than learning how to use my Probe screen. When I created these macros there UCCNC had nothing useful. But of course, if you prefer using my macros you are welcome. Note that I have never tested with anything newer than version 1.2111 and I can't guarantee that it works with any other version and can definitely not promise any update. God Jul från Skåne.

I don't know how you arrived to the 500 USD, would you use golden bearings???? Anyway, I don't think you can get a professional drill machine for 500 USD, but even if you do, this machine has many benefits, which the low price range pro machines do NOT have. I also disagree with the "it makes no sense" simplified judgement. Of course it makes no sense if you don't care, or if you don't need to improve the machine, but after using mine almost every day for many years, the chuck changing really made sense and made a huge difference. But sure, I also concluded that changing the bearings makes no sense for me, because it was too big of a job, but even high quality replacement bearings are cheap, so the costs for that is actually peanuts. I bought all the bearings but never changed them because I didn't think the bearings caused any real issues and I considered it was too much work. However, in the end, I sold this machine a few months ago for other reasons. The reasons are explained here: kzbin.info/www/bejne/aXrWg3x6mdVja9E and the new machine is this one: kzbin.info/www/bejne/a5CrhZ2LhLqmnJo which cost me about 500 USD, but it is definitely not something I'd call a professional machine, but it is in many ways better, though it needed some additional mods also.

@@AdaptingCamera "I don't know how you arrived to the 500 USD, would you use golden bearings?" " I also concluded that changing the bearings makes no sense for me, because it was too big of a job" "and the new machine is this one: which cost me about 500 USD" It is not the cost of the bearings. It is the cost of the replacement. It takes two hours or so, which is an extra cost. Ultimately, you came to the same conclusion: you bought the 500 USD machine. You answered your own question with your actions.

Maybe if your ink never dries then you are printing on the wrong side of the paper??? That's the only time it happened to me. Anyway, I am sure it used pigment black when I print on that paper in B&W because during a period of time I did not print any documents, but a lot of B&W images and my pigment black ink tank went down to about half. So I am 100% sure that the printer uses the pigment ink when printing black and white images. I believe that's the case also for printing on Epson Premium Glossy paper, at least for B&W, because during that period I also printed on that paper.

(Maybe the "Bosch Constant Electronic" does not work..? )

If that happens you need to buy new drill bits, they are dull or are of the wrong quality for the material, or just overall pure crap. The only time I experienced such issues when I used hole saws which I pushed too hard, or with the dull drill bits.

@@magnusstromwall4374 The constant current electronic circuit is working perfectly well. It is well designed and does what it is made for. It is the last thing I'd complain about, that's for sure, but it is of course possible that there is something wrong with your machine. Anyway, the constant current circuit and the DC motor are two things I really liked in the PBD 40. the combination makes the machine an excellent choice for 90% of the amateurs. It's a perfect small and light machine, but the chuck is crap and the machine head wobble could have been fixed easily by Bosch if they wanted to develop and improve this machine, but thy did no improvements between now and when it hit the market. The only "improvement" they made was that they added that stupid and useless chip guard to the later models. Mine did not have it, but I would have removed it if I had it.

Mine never overheated during all the years I intensively used it. Overheat is a result of overload, so use the recommended RPM and don't push too hard. Every drill machine can be overloaded using the wrong speed and too har pushing into the material. I think that the moving you are feeling is the drill head wobble, which in the end resulted in my decision to change the machine to a much heavier one. This is the video about the end of PBD 40: kzbin.info/www/bejne/aXrWg3x6mdVja9E and this is my new machine: kzbin.info/www/bejne/a5CrhZ2LhLqmnJo

The test connection in this video is really simple. I just connected the power to a power supply and the pul+ / pul- to a pulse generator. The servo has a built in driver which has optical isolators on all inputs also, so it is really simple to connect to any devide which sends pulses. As I show it at 4:28 marker the pul+ is connected to my pulse generator + output and the pul- is connected to the pulse generator GND. It's really very straight forward, but the servo comes with a printed manual, which contains all the explanation needed for the connection. It is also available online if you want to download it.

I agree with you regarding the metal band saw in general. I also regret that I didn't buy something similar many years ago. OK, sorry. I always thought it was a Norwegian company, I don't know why.

Thank you very much.

Thank you very much. It works great, easy to make and very useful if you need to engrave fine lines.

It's a totally different machine, not just the colour, I mean TOTALLY DIFFERENT machine. But both are bench drill machines. The resemblance ends there. 😏 BTW, everything is Made in China today... both the good quality and the bad quality.

@@AdaptingCamera Yes, you are correct and my fault, I copied the wrong part number, it should have been DP16-910B-VS. I've been browsing too many pillar drills, looking to buy one. Holtzmann also has the same, SB162VN.

Hi, I have never tried, but I can't see why not. I mean, I am printing on 300gsm paper, but not on water colour paper, so the weight isn't an issue. You need to profile, unless you can find one of the available ICC profiles useful. Must be tested out in that case.

The media type is always used and must be set correctly, even if you use ABW, just like you would set it for a colour picture. Setting the wrong media type will result in using too much or too little ink for the paper. For example if you are printing on ordinary paper and set a glossy photo paper the printer will spray a lot more ink than the ordinary office paper can handle and it will be totally soaked. I have Ilford in my media type because I have a ICC profile for that paper and I am printing on that paper. If I'd print on a different paper, for example the Epson Premium Glossy which I also use, I'd set the media type to that paper.

The Ilford Pearl paper is profiled by a shop, so the ICC profile is been created specifically for that paper. It uses both pigment and dye inks. If you select the standard papers you must probably select a matte paper so that the printer knows it must also use the pigment black ink.

The printer has only one pigment ink (black). Printing B&W involves using even the pigment black, but since the printer also uses the grey, so it uses a mixture of pigment and dye inks. As you can see in the video, I am using Ilford Galerie Smooth Pearl as media type, but it is a custom made ICC profile. Unfortunately, Ilford doesn't provide ICC profile for this printer. The only matte paper experience I have is occasional printing on canvas. Though, the Ilford Pearl is semi matte, and I have printed a lot on that.

Thank you for your comment and glad you managed. I really love music but hate this sort of videos with background music, which is why I don't have it. Music is very personal and I don't understand why a huge number of people believe that THEIR taste of music should be shared in this sort of video as background sound. In my opinion, it is just terror and disturbing. Even more disturbing the free crap music available on KZbin as background. So I agree with you. Regarding background history, some times it is necessary, some times not, but sure, when the first five minutes of a 10-20 minutes long video is background history, that is really pointless and far too long. My opinion is that if you can't summarise the background history in one minute then you don't know what you actually want to show or talk about. I normally skip all the junk and jump into the actual video when I stumble over those types.

No offence, but you don't know what you are talking about. Yes, the PBD 40 has some advantages, but the drill head wobbling is a real problem, which easily could have been avoided if Bosch would have used better rack and pinion parts plus added two screws and a gib to make it user adjustable. In fact, I have a fairly cheap hand drill machine stand, made by Wolfcraft www.wolfcraft.com/products/wolfcraft/en/EUR/Products/Attachments-for-Machines/Drill-Stands/Drill-Stand/p/P_5027 which has those set screws m.media-amazon.com/images/I/71-HwiPdgmL._AC_SL1500_.jpg for that specific reason, and it works well and it costs only about 120 € where I am living, even cheaper on Amazon.de, there you can get it for 100 €. So it is something Bosch should have addressed, because while this may not be a problem for you, it is a problem for me and many others and is easily fixable. Also, every half decent bench drill machine is infinitely better regarding this issue, starting around 150 €. I mean, sure, they might have other issues, but not this, and for 250 € you can definitely get better machines in Europe. Just look at Scheppach DP 19 Vario, you can get it for 200 € on Amazon, and while it is not what I bought, it would definitely beat the Bosch PBD 40 and it is easy to find even other machines at or below the price of the PBD 40, which is more like 300 € where I am living.

For the application where I am using this servo a higher accuracy is not needed. Anyway, people get fooled by the numbers. Setting to the highest steps per rev will give you higher accuracy but will also cost you torque and also demands very high pulsing frequency, which can be demanding if you have more axis to drive as well, so it's a compromise. In my case, this motor is a spindle motor spinning a chuck and I simply don't need higher accuracy, will have no benefit from it. I need the highest possible torque with good accuracy for angle positioning, and with 400 steps per rev I get the optimal results.

@ okay, thanks for the information. However, now I’m curious when the drop off in torque occurs. I was thinking of setting my PPR to 1600 since that would still give me a theoretical travel accuracy of 3.125 micron with a 2-1 belt reduction and a 10mm lead on my XY axis. Will I be losing torque here?

@@grandmastersreaction1267 That is impossible for me to answer, but generally the higher number of microsteps, the more is the torque loss. Anyway, another issue with too high microsteps is that it also means higher number of pulses per revolution. That is no problem if you have a system which is capable of generating synchronized pulses for all your motors, but if it results in maximum speed loss then it becomes a problem. Anyway, you must try, if it works it works, if not then you can just decrease the microstepping. Just a note on your aimed accuracy, in my opinion that's pointless and unrealistic. Do you even have any device to measure that? I mean, maybe you do, but then you must ask yourself if you really need that accuracy, and for what. All your other components, the belt and the ball screw / ball nut will have several magnitude worse accuracy, so you won't benefit anything other than maybe noise from having such high (imagined) accuracy.

Thank you. In fact, I am very happy with this machine. It is definitely my most versatile saw.

@@AdaptingCamera it is very annoying when a new device break's.

@@jamesavery3559 Yes, definitely. Though I felt that something was actually wrong with the blade, I could hear a "clonk" at every revolution, but I could not really feel it with my fingers or see anything strange, so I took a chance. Anyway, the new blade (the one I bought) is an expensive, high quality type and it feels totally different, no "clonk", so I hope it will last longer. If that snaps also then I have to use the one I got from the shop when I complained, so I guess (hope) that I am good for a few months.

@@AdaptingCameraok but if the new high quality blade break's in less then a year then maybe it is the machine and not the blade?

@@jamesavery3559 Not necessarily. It can still be the blade, it can also be me pushing too hard or using the wrong speed, which could make the blade too hot and soften it, of course, it can also be the machine... Anyway, if this one holds for almost a year then I think it was a good buy and the next blade I'd buy would be the same. Also, the new blade sounds different, better and more even, than the original blade, so I am convinced that something was wrong with that blade.

Hi John and thanks for your comment. The problem you are mentioning regarding the jaws being too far from the blade is something I mentioned in my video as well, but I suppose you got tired of the video before that part. Anyway, that's on my list of "to do", because it is annoying that I have to come up with a special solution each time to ba able to cut short pieces. It's in fact a problem I am facing at this moment, I just took a coffee break. Anyway, I will solve that more permanently within a few days, plans are in my head already done. To you question about rotating the blade the other way, the answer is no, that's neither possible nor would be useful, since it would mean that the blade must be turned inwards, making the machine useless. I was thinking about reversing the vise, but I don't think that's practical. Anyway, while I suspected this to be a problem also, after a few weeks of pretty intensive use, I don't find it a problem. Remember that if the blade must be forced then you probably using the machine the wrong way, have a blund blade, or the wrong type of blade. Regarding the 10 minutes, yes, I read the manual. I think that's just a "I will cover my ass" type of advise, but in any case, 10 minutes of cutting is a very long time, if you need that long than perhaps you need an industrial machine. All the cuts I am making are done after a minute or two, but definitely never 10 minutes. I don't know which material thickness would need that, maybe a 100 x 100 mm chunk of steel. So I am not worried about that. Also, all of the other "problems" you mentioned are the same in all similar band saws, even the industrial ones. Regarding the mass of the base, I think that's enough. Adding more mass would not improve the cuts according to me, I have no problems with vibrations. So my verdict so far is that I can recommend this machine for anyone who is not using it professionally. My experience is too short to say anything about how long the machine will last, but I get back here if it brakes down. The first thing I expect to fail is the blade, if that happens I'll buy a Bahco blade. Expensive, but good quality. I also think that it is important NOT to use any coolant, the blade should stay dry. That's also in the manual, but many people don't read it or don't care about that note. I think that's more important than the time restriction. Hälsningar från Lund, Skåne.

Hi again. Thank You for your answer on my initial comments. No I did not get tired I was vith you all to the end of the video. I am infact thinking of buying the saw my self for my workshop. I am thinking that the vice is located far away from the sawblade in order to make it possible to cut in angles. What do You think of replacing the vice with a proper vice for a drillpress mashine or for a milling mashine. Is it possible to make the vise reversed and moved closer to the sawblade and make it rotate to cut in angles. With a reversed vice the sawblade will push the material aginst the fixed jaw and make a moore solid fastening of the material that is to be cut. What type of motor is it. Is it reversible at all. It would be very nice to see Your modificacations in a video. From John Eriksson in Bollnäs Hälsingland.

By the way, just last week I made the modification of the jaws, using some scrap metal I had at home, and that is documented here: kzbin.info/www/bejne/j6W4doCPf6ajr9Usi=V7g5UjQCcu-jfPaM

Thank you for your comment. My take on the PBD 40 is that it is in fact a very good machine, with many advantages, but if you are going to work a lot on steel then it's not the most optimal. I sold mine after about ten years of happy use, as you can see in this video: kzbin.info/www/bejne/aXrWg3x6mdVja9Esi=I2gSMZhPFjpBytK2 However, if I wanted a similar machine I'd definitely get the PBD 40, definitely not any of the clones. Regarding the Güde GTB 16/500 Vario, it is a good machine and on several counts better than the Scheppach equivalent. And I mean, on MANY points. I think that the problems I had with it are fixable, I certainly managed to fix them, so for now I am happy with it, but when you buy a machine like this, there should be nothing needed to be fixed in my opinion. The support should mainly be given by the dealer, and my dealer has definitely no idea about what customer support means.

Thank you. Sorry, but no, this is no longer available.

You must remember that this machine is an old design, long before brushless motors were acceptably priced, like today. Nevertheless, while brushless motors have advantages, there is actually nothing wrong with the motor and the controller of the PBD 40. It has a constant speed controller which actually works very well, so if you load the machine, the motor will not slow down, which is actually great. So without that feature, a brushless motor would be worse. Brushed motors have a disadvantage in noise, but because this machine has a mechanical gear box, it is very noisy already, so having a motor with less noise would make no difference. I agree about the chuck, it's horrible and Bosch should have chosen a better one.

@@AdaptingCamera good point, BTW did you have to change brushes in 10 years period?

Beware that the machine head is wobbling also, so make sure that it is acceptable for what you are doing. Also, you may consider changing the bearings as well, if not now, maybe one day, because they are not great.

@@AdaptingCameragreat vid. You don't have one on replacing the bearings too do you? I'm ok with wood but I'm no engineer.

Thank you for the comment. Yes, now after almost two weeks of use, it is definitely my favourite saw, not only for metal, but also for wood. It is so convenient to use it that I prefer this one and not the circular saw, which I also have a few different type, from the largest you can see in this video to the tiniest one, which is a very small Proxxon table saw.

Thank you for the comment, I appreciate it. I hope you will look at my other videos also and find them interesting. There will be no more PBD 40 video from me, but will definitely post videos about my other machines.

Thank you.

Well, both yes and no. Yes, it's an old machine so... what should I expect...? BUT... the wobble was there all the time, from day one, and as I said in my video, now that I considered to buy a new one because this is 10 years old, I wanted the same again, so I went around and checked out in a few shops to see if there was any improvement made during the 10 years, but no, nothing. The only change is that the models sold today have a chip guard, which seemed to be useless and cheap. The slop is not a half millimeter, it's half mm in one direction and another 0.2 - 0.5 in the other direction, so in total that's about one millimeter. That's only the machine head. Add to that the spindle wobble, and you have almost two mm wobble, which is far too much. While I liked this machine for a long time, these problems have always been there. The spindle wobble is fixable, but the head wobble is not. None of the issues are caused by heavy use, I mostly used on wood, plastics and aluminium, rarely drilling in steel. But now I am changing direction and will be working more with heavier material, so buying a new PBD 40 would be pretty dumb. But sure, it is a nice machine, and if I would not need more precision or would only use it on wood, this would be almost perfect.

do you have a link ?

Sorry, no I don't have a link. It is a long time ago I changed the chuck and in fact, I no longer have the PBD 40. This is my new machine: kzbin.info/www/bejne/a5CrhZ2LhLqmnJo

To be honest, I don't know. The only way I can think of is by using a transparent sticky vinyl layer. I have such vinyl, it came with the labels I used in this test print. There are also CDs with printable surface, I don't know how glossy they are. Maybe there are glossy labels available also, after all, this label is actually sticky photo paper in the shape of a CD, so maybe glossy type exists also.

I would recommend a glossy printer paper or printable vinyl cut out in the shape of the cd place it on be for printing

Sorry, I don't know. Read the manual. It's available for download free of charge. Maybe it's stated on Epson webpage regarding the specifications. Check it out.