I like the swage block solution you built to keep her steady! Great video on the process!

Hallo! Sehr geehrter Herr, dieses Video ist wirklich Interessant! Sowas heutzutage die Jugend würde nicht mehr machen genau so wie viele andere Handarbeit! Was ich ihnen gerne fragen würde! Immer wenn örgend wann sie mir antworten könnten! Das Prozess eines Revolver Lauf, wurde im Western Zeitalter auch so hergestellt??? Ich bedanke mich im voraus für eine eventuelle Antwort! Grüße und einen schönen Tag wünsche ich Ihnen! Kevin aus Rottweil Deutschland 😊👍

Never ever use gloves when operating a grinder!!!

so how is a seal made between the 2 ends of the bit once they meet? is it welded shut or is hammering them together when they're red hot enough to fuse it together?

ما شالله حجي شغلي غير شكله 🎉

It'd be simpler to buy a pipe at a hardware store. They make excellent, pre-made barrels.

If you have a custom gun made you will get a forged barrel 8 out of 10 times the other 2 times it's tooled steel then case hardend

Wow that’s so cool to watch! I can’t wait till I can start learning how to forge! :)

Thank you for sharing

Given the relative softness of wrought iron, I'd imagine the barrel would have been more likely to bulge instead of exploding into shrapnel if the gun was overcharged with powder.

Bought the plans yesterday-

where is the rest of the steps where the barrel is finished

..That is an incredible piece of equipment, Well done sir...!

Right up my alley, great content! Is the book going to be available on artisan ideas?

Excellent! Thanks Dave and Bruce. Nick

Hi Dave, Excellent video! Timely, too. I've been asked to make some cattails using copper for the cattail tops. I got some 3/4" thin wall copper water pipe and went at it with my Kuhn power hammer. I was hitting too hard. You know, I am a blacksmith and hitting it harder must be better! Bruce's techniques will make a difference on my next attempt. But, I also see that I can color iron forgings with the crayons without using actual copper. Thank you very much!

Let's hear him speak, just leave the music out.

Could you please provide some specific info on the steel pipe that he used? Do you have ordering info we could use to get some? What was the dia. of the pipe used in the video? 2"? I'll be looking forward to your whole series. Love the child's crayons part!

..That tapered/twisted spindle is incredible...

Thank you for sharing

..Extremely interesting techniques with outstanding results...

😃😃😃😃

Thanks so much, I'll try this tonight. It'll probably be a nightmare on the first attempt but we'll get there.

Stumbled across this on the net, i love the idea of this hammer. Could you give a rough estimate for cost of materials before i purchase the plans?

Did you ever end up finishing this? I'd like to see the extra steps to get to finished barrel.

David: That is a versatile hammer nicely executed. i apologise about he follwoing as it is mostly about my experiences but the discussion may be usefull to othrs ponder the choices for a purchase. I think the complaint about being slow is purely a function of the weight of the ram and striking force, so a smith should size their choice based upon whether or not they will regularly be breaking down or shaping larger diameter stock. The added cost of a larger hammer will soon be overcome by the savings in time. Second, it is usually so that when moving to a larger pneumatic hammer, there is little loss of forging capabilites at the lower end of striking force, so except for the purchase price difference there it is just a matter of initial investment and off course the added electrical cost. I find that many smiths who are pressed for money select a smaller hammer that will end up being inadequate for their needs and then being replaced with a hammer that they should have bought out of the gate. I did that with the Anyang and should have gone up to the 88# model, but at the time I thought, wrongly that my electric service limited me to 5Hp. At the time 2009, the cost difference might have been $2,000, or less than $150/ year so far, which puts the added cost in better perspective. In use however, the two hammers mechanical 100# and a 55# Anyang were a good match in strengths, so it didn't cost me much in utility. I have owned a 55# Anyang for 14 years now and bought to replace a Beaudry Utility 25# that I used for 35 years starting about 1973. I also have had a Beaudry 100# since 1977 which is a good partner with the Anyang as the Beaudry will do the breakdowns and larger forge welds on up to 2.5" ms sq. The Anyang's role is to do more precise forging and to use hacks, spring swages, fullers, taper drop over dies. Mistriking as with a hack on the 100# has consequences for the hand and wrist. The much larger die area of the 100# is also an advantage for shouldering and finishing full width of about 4.5" whereas the Anyang width is limited to about 2" in die width and 4.5" length. A lot of my work used wrought iron in 1" round and above which had to be broken down at welding heats to a size closer to the finished product as there is little WI between band stock and 5/8". An issue that I see with the bulldog is the eight inch cylinder and shorter stroke which may limit the height of tooling above the work. With the anyang I can use many top punches and other tooling made for over the anvil striking, though as I built up my top tooling, for punching with bolsters, fullering I used Lilico as a guide to how to make shorter top tools, so perhaps that is the way to go with the Bulldog and not necessarily a disadvantage. After running a selfcontained air hammer, ie. with matched reciprocating compression cylinder and ram, I would never consider substituting a hammer that required a separate compressor. Two separate machines, line loss, noise, two things to keep up. more complicated. the selfcontained are more massive and simpler and likely to last longer than the well built but lightly built Bulldog. The Bulldog has a different philosophy and a builder should understand all the advantages and disadvantages to the types, and choice before making a decision. Great job Dave.Thanks!

Great hammer! Very well thought out and versatile for sure. I really like the single hit feature. Nicely done.

What powder is used to join the iron

Its good quality Metal

Ingenuity, skill, and infinite patence. What a wonderful demonstration of these invaluable qualities. Great video. Thanks.

I thought you’re supposed to weld a barrel from the middle towards the ends. There’s a great video called “Gunsmith of Williamsburg” that goes over every step of making an 18 century flintlock long rifle.

boooorrrrring

..Very interesting technique and well demonstrated sir...!

Thanks for the demonstration Dave.

Great video but very low volume. Not a tire but a metal rim-iron & or steel attached to the felloe. Tires are rubber. Hope there's a video on the rest of this project.

There are more sticky mouth sounds in this video than words. You need to drink more water dude - especially before speaking into a mic. I have a feeling a good portion of the downvotes are partially due to how hard this is to listen to with gross noises throughout.

That’s Spring Steel 😊

Fbi keep off my ass im just curious alright im just really interested in how the done it

its a god damn shame the algorithm never suggests you stuff like this on its own. Great to see history in action. Thanks for documenting it!

Thank you

This is awesome.

Bloody awesome work 👍👍🇺🇸🇭🇲

Lol,, sorry. I jumped in a bit early 👍🇺🇸🇭🇲

Make a brace to hold ur curving block in place, that slots into the holes in top of your anvil ?

Saludó desde la República Dominicana excelente vídeo

Thanks Again For Your Hard Work

Smiths are amazing... They helped shape the modern world.

I know this is an 8 yr old video I'm starting to learn forging I'm just wondering if a leaf spring from a school bus would work well for barrel making thank you

thank you sir

How does a twist steel barrel vary from this?