Oh, no worries, I have a whole lot of videos on these controllers on this channel, so you won't be completely on your own. Alternatively, the method described in this video works with any microcontroller that has TRISTATE IOs (= pins that can be either an input or an output). Let me know if that helps :)

@@FriendlyWire i mean i more into atmel (arduino guy) also i developed a kond of hate/fear at pic back in the days pre arduino when programers where expensives and code dificult. thanks for you answer

@@oskimac The same technique works on AVRs :)

Thank you, glad you like it :)

Thank you so much! I moved internationally so I had a bit of an adjustment period getting the lab back together, but I am already working on the next video :)

Did you see the companion article at www.friendlywire.com/tutorials/touch/ ? This has all the files and details :)

Thank you, I am glad you found it useful! :)

Thank you so much, I am glad you found it useful!

@@FriendlyWire I will be building a few circuit once I have a few parts. Thanks again for a very informative video I enjoyed your web page and other video, have a good weekend

@@alanturner1184 Thank you so much! Send me a picture of what you are building, my email is at the bottom of www.friendlywire.com, I'd love to see it :) And don't hesitate to reach out if anything doesn't work, we will figure it out :) And a great weekend to you too!

I used the PIC16F1455 because it has the option for 48MHz which is really fast for a mid-range PIC. Others will need an external one, but I am not sure if they can run so fast. As I understand it you are thinking of using, say, a PIC16F84 and connect it to a 32MHz crystal? If yes, we need to check the specs of that chip. Which one do you have in mind?

@@FriendlyWire Hi, i dont have any PIC in mind, right now i am using a 18LF6410 from an existing project that runs at 32mhz. it would be nice if i could drive WS leds with it. As i understand there is no periphral that could handle this pwm type modulation, not at thoses speed imho. 16f913/916, 18f6410, 18f4431,...any of thoses would do it for me. thanks a lot !

fwiw ive been able to make it work at 32mhz but it was trickey since all instructions takes a lot of time, its done is assembly coding (.asm) and could be used in any low cost/low entry pic as long as it runs at 32mhz.

Thank you, Oliver, I am glad you found it useful! :)

Thank you, I am glad you found the video helpful! To answer your question: it depends, unfortunately, one what is connected to the controller. If you have a PCB, check if there is a "programming interface" connector or something like that. A lot of production PCBs are designed such that the PIC can be flashed after being soldered, for convenience. If such a pinheader exists, it should be OK to flash it. Hope it helps!

It's true, this circuit can work a bit wonky if there is lots of interference (like fluorescent light bulbs, or noisy power supplies). But I am not sure what your reference to 2:53 means, could you explain more?

@@FriendlyWire This is when you introduced the input pin and said it's high-impedance

In general it's a good idea not to touch them. But in practice I find it makes no damage if you ground yourself first. I have touched microcontroller pins when inserting them into the breadboard for 10+ years, and none have broken yet.

Thank you for the compliment! But rest assured I am not giving up :) I moved internationally and I only now have all my electronics stuff in one place again. I am working on the next tutorial on LCDs :)

Thanks for the suggestion! I am not sure if shorts are the way to go, to be honest, because I like to explain things properly, and shorts may bring in people with a different expectation :)

Thanks so much! :)

Thanks so much, I am so glad you like it! Best wishes from Germany! :)

Glad you like it! Best wishes from Germany!

@@FriendlyWire I admire your country very much !

​@@anhthodung92 Thank you! I have always wanted to visit Southeast Asia more, I love the food so much :D

I am glad you like it, and thank you for your kind words!

Glad you like it, and have a great day! :)

Thank you for your kind words, I am so glad you liked it! :)

I guess the answer is YES, since this channel exists ;-) I like to use them for the type of projects and applications I share on this channel, but there are of course other alternatives. I like to program them in C, since you learn a lot about how registers work, and how the hardware is configured. But you have to choose what you like best, of course :)

@@FriendlyWire i have just tested some PICs with this PICKIT3, and I must say it's a very hard time finding a working version of IDE/IPE to actually let you connect the device. I eventually had to use MPLAB X IDE 6.20 + Standalone PICKIT3 Programmer 3.10 to completely control over this. I think PIC / PICKIT3 are very obsolete technology nowadays that Microchip doesn't even bother to maintain correctly.

It can be dust inside the rotary encoder. Get some compressed air and try to get rid of it. I had a similar case a few years back, and after the compressed air it worked fine again. Good luck, and let us know what you find :)

@@FriendlyWire ​ The rotary encoder in my keyboard has clips located underneath, so I couldn't open it without desoldering. I went ahead and desoldered it from the module, then carefully cleaned the inside with a Q-tip. After reassembly, it's now working perfectly. I'm not entirely sure what caused the issue, as I didn’t find any visible dust or debris. It’s possible something very small got lodged in the contacts. There was a decent amount of lube inside as well, which seemed fine. I soldered the encoder back in place, but since I don’t have proper desoldering tools, I only used a minimal amount of solder just enough to hold it in. This way, if the problem returns, it’ll be easier to remove again. It’s been a week now, and everything’s still functioning well. Thanks for the vid I have a good guide what is in the inside and how it works.

@@jervx829 Wow, that sounds like quite the operation! Congratulations, and yes, it's quite possible that there was a small piece of debris that affected the inside contacts. Thanks for sharing, and congratulations again, nicely done! :)

Thank you for the question! This all depends on the inputs of your ESP32. I am not an expert on these chips, but in general it does not hurt to add pullup resistors. If the circuit works between 3-5V, then 4.7 kilo Ohm resistors are a good choice. I am not really sure, however, what you mean by the module board. Do you have a link? These module boards are not usually needed if you program the microcontroller yourself, like in this video, because we do all the decoding ourselves in software :)

To quote your username: lol :D But in all seriousness, I am glad you found the video helpful!

Thanks for the question! ADC's are typically not used to amplify signals, for that you would need an operational amplifier or a good old transistor circuit, all in the realm of "analog electronics." Once you have an amplified signal that is in the range of 0-5V DC, you can use the PIC's ADC to convert it into a number between 0..1023. But before the signal is amplified, this conversion does not really help since you would lose a lot of resolution of the ADC. Let me know if this helps :)

@@FriendlyWire so i should focus on amplifying the signal first? I also have a few arduini boarda, so could i use the arduino as an adc?

Hahaha I am glad you like the video, thanks! :)

Thank you for your question! Is it possible that the touch button you use bounces? This could explain why the counter sometimes jumps. Is your reset pin connected to anything? Don't worry, these kind of things are normal and can happen (and happened to me a lot of times, too), but we will find the mistake :)

You can try 100 Ohms, it should work OK.

@@FriendlyWire thankyou

@@ben10er6 Happy to help! If anything doesn't work, let me know, we will figure it out together :)

Multiplexing does not work with this schematic, unfortunately, so you will need a single microcontroller input for each one of these. But if you need that many pins then maybe it's a good idea to search for a dedicated chip that does this sort of thing. What is your application?

I have never done this, so I am not 100% sure. It depends also on the length of the PCB traces. The overall stray capacitance is a few picofarad, so if you aim for, say, 22pF, it would be a good starting point. But since I have not built this on a PCB I am not an expert on this unfortunately, it may require some experimenting.

Interesting! Yes, it's easy to switch RX/TX either by mistake or by thinking about it wrongly, since one device's RX can be the other device's TX (or RX) depending on how everything is configured :) Did you manage to figure it out?

That is strange---although PICkit3 is no longer officially supported, I am using it every day with the newest release of MPLAB IPE. Can you share a screenshot? You can reach me on social media (links in description) or via email (at the bottom of www.friendlywire.com) so we can get this sorted out :)

@@FriendlyWire Thank you for your reply. Meanwhile, the problem is resolved, thanks to this video: kzbin.info/www/bejne/rJfQfahsjd91qtk. In brief - pickit3 had to be switched to MPLAB mode, either through the standalone application or by holding pressed the button, while usb plug-in.

@@ecotronic6622 That is so interesting---I never had to do anything to my PICkit3 to make it work with the IPE. Thanks for sharing, this is good to know!

If it reads back 0x0 it most likely means that the PIC is not connected to power. Can you check the VDD and VSS pins for 5V?

​@@FriendlyWire i got the cyan brick thing that connects all the pins already , and it did tell me that the pic is not powered but i fixed that error already using the ipe power section, but i still get the id error

​@@cubirk Can you send me a picture of the setup? You can find my email at the bottom of www.friendlywire.com . It's quite common to get these errors, we will figure it out :)

@@FriendlyWire oks thank you

@@cubirk Thank you, I got your email! I will look at it today so we can figure it out. It's quite common to have these problems when setting things up, so I am confident we can solve it. :)

Thank you for the suggestion, but for the foreseeable future I plan to stick to the 8-bit PIC microcontrollers. Have a great start into your week! :)

What kind of a system do you have in mind? You can find my email at the bottom of www.friendlywire.com, but I should mention that I do not have time to take commission. Nevertheless I am always interested in chatting and trying to point people in the right direction :)

Happy to help! :)

I use Eagle by Autodesk, but I honestly only use it to visualize the circuits since I like the aesthetics and know how to create new components in that software. Since I do not make PCBs it is mostly a matter of taste for me, for that reason :)

Ok thank you for help

@@hyperek8046 Happy to help, and thank you for stopping by. Have a great day!

It's a very interesting topic, but I don't cover high voltage topics on this channel :) These are very interesting circuits, but they are also quite tricky and potentially unsafe for beginners. This is why everything here uses 12V max. Sorry, but thank you for your interest! :)

True, the source code is first compiled into something the PIC understands, and then that .hex-file is transferred to the PIC. I chose this simpler title to make the video more understandable to beginners, but I don't think it will confuse anyone, because if you watch the video you see that I explain it exactly like this :)

Ohh, interesting, do you have a link to one of these potentiometers? I am always interested in new topics to cover in upcoming tutorials, so I would really appreciate it! Thank you!

Hello, thank you for your question. Unfortunately, if the source code is protected it is not possible to extract it with the PICkit.

Glad you liked the video, happy to help!

Hello, thanks for your comment! I check Instagram sporadically, but it is easier to send me an email, which you can find at the bottom of www.friendlywire.com :)

Thank you so much, Tariq, much appreciated! I just moved and for this reason everything is getting a bit delayed, but my studio is all set up again, and I will start working on a new video very soon :)

Thank you so much, glad you enjoyed the video!

Thanks for your question! For a beginner it's a bit of a project to get this on a PCB, because there are several details I did not cover in this video relevant for the PCB creation. Why don't you get started with a simple project, like the LED blink project (kzbin.info/www/bejne/m2W0Y5ePi8qXhrs) and if that all works, you can try out the touch sensor on a breadboard presented in this video. Together with the companion article on my website (see link in description) it should give you a pretty good starting point :)

This tutorial is for the PICkit3 programmer. Do you want to use a different programmer? If so, do you have a link so I can check it out?

How so? :) All notches (circled in green) point to the left of the breadboard :)

@@FriendlyWire not the notches, the positive and negative voltage pins. i had to watch it 3 times because i thought i was missing something.

@@502deth I cannot see what you mean, I am sorry. Can you explain more what is misleading? :)

@@FriendlyWire then maybe im still confused? lol. because i used the mixed up left and right excuse to make thing work in my head. at 13:00 you say "connect the ic's to vdd on their top right pins" and show them getting connected to the top left pins, followed by "and to ground on their bottom left pins" then show the wires getting placed on the bottom right pins. the data sheet shows v+ at pin 18 and gnd at pin 8, so the visual makes sense to me, but confused as the narration doesnt seem to match. so concluding that the narration is mistaken makes it make sense to me. what am i missing?

Thank you for your kind words! :)