Thanks! Yeah... stick with impulse, I'm confident it's better.

@@CoreHawk3D Ordered, Looking forward to having adjustable detents!

@@secretagb Thanks! I'm excited for you!

We're working on it, I promise!

I'll check with my US supplier for stock, if you're in the asia / pacific side of the world, I could easily send you one!

@ yep i’m in asia

@@kurkurstuff2522 sweeeet! Hit me up on Etsy with a DM and I'll make it happen! I expect shipping will be very cheap and fast since I'm out here in Okinawa right now.

@ neat dude

correct!

OOF!! Thank you for the heads up and I applaud your soldering skills! I've never seen or heard of that happening until now! Anyone reading this, take heed. If you want to take the arm off, use a pinching motion to remove the arm, pushing down on the actual pivot/potentiometer with your fingernails! (sometimes leaving the arm on can be just as risky if holding the base steady while removing the slider and rails is a struggle.

not a bad thought! Are they said to work with anodized aluminum? That's what the rails are made of. Otherwise, the rails are 8mm diameter and the bearings I use are LM8UU: L=24, OD=15, ID=8. Dimensions in mm.

Thanks for the feedback, I'll admit, the WEP magnet is only felt with minimal friction. I may redesign that feature using a different approach in the near future. As for the noise: does it sound like magnets clicking around in their slots as they get pulled or pushed by the bigger magnet in the slider as it moves past them? Or is it plastic on plastic dragging? If it's the latter, I'd recommend remounting the hockey stick, pressing hard into the hot glue for mounting it. If it's the former, there is a certain amount of space I design into the magnet slots to retain them but allow multiple installs/removals without going past the elastic range of deformation of the material, that way it keeps it's firmness of retention while also allowing a little play. Let me know which it is or if it's something else entirely!

@CoreHawk3D The repel magnet seems to be working now, had to reapply it a few more times as the magnets kept tearing the stick off after only an hour. As for the noise I'm certain the stick is as flat as can be, but is still generating some degree of noise. Though to be fair I think that may have also been the case before I switched out the parts. My thrustmaster is preowned so that might also be a factor. Going up and down almost sounds like I'm sawing through wood. It's still usable though and I hardly notice during gaming.

@@CamperCarl is the swingarm mount screw rubbing the bottom panel of the throttle case?

thank you so much!

Thank you so much for the feedback!!

Greetings. It is possible but I'd recommend only a thin film for the bushings. Avoid use with the metal linear bearings, it slows the rolling motion of the individual balls and it creates a very pronounced gritty/grinding feel - not good.

@@CoreHawk3D Thanks man appreciate the answer. Might buy as well buy one whenever I get my bearings straight

@@JPazer Sure thing, what do you mean by getting your bearings straight?

@@CoreHawk3D It's a saying. And in this case also a sh*tty pun (now you laugh). sorry :)

@@JPazer Oh haha very relevant pun! I've never seen the Bering Strait myself.

Great question! A few things to check: is the screw for the main swing arm dragging on the underside of the throttle case? Did you wipe the rails clean of lubricant? (if using bushings which are self-lubricating, you should, just a faint thin film is ok to have on there). Is your friction adjuster over tightened? Did you rotate the bushings and rails to find that frictionless sweet spot? These steps should cover all of the ways I'd expect to cause anything less than stellar performance.

@@CoreHawk3D I've tried everything you suggested, not much of a difference. But when I took the metal shafts out I noticed that on each side one of the bushings were much more sticky than the other. Is this normal

@@cigee9499 Hmmm, one other method I forgot to mention: run each bushing individually on each of your rails (fully removed) to identify if it's one, some, or all of the bushings / rails that are creating the issue. Regardless of what you find, rub the problem bushing(s) along a rail applying strong force perpendicular to the rail (normal force) and also a rotating moment on it (twist perpendicular to the rail) so that any binding or interfering tolerances or surfaces in the bushing get quickly worn down until it's sliding freely. After this it should be smoov like butta.

no worries and I'm not suggesting that you should buy it again. It's not unheard of for these PLA prints to warp if left in the sun. I suspect the slider itself was warped and not holding the bushings as designed. We run strict quality tests before we send them out so barring any errors there, I suspect heat (and at no fault of your own). I specifically switched from black bubble mailers in the past for this reason specifically. Now I send in insulated boxes inside white bubble mailers.

@@CoreHawk3D No it was in it's box for a long time as I was too scared to attempt the mod.

@@Jellybeantiger All good and even if it was, I wouldn't expect sun exposure to cause it d/t the aforementioned changes to shipping materials. Any number of other heat sources could have influenced this thing long before it got to you. We'll get you up and running, just need to talk the how/when.

I'm so sorry to hear this! I've had my share of projects that go sideways while everything is taken apart so I sympathize deeply! I think you just messaged me on Etsy and I've replied there. if that's not you, let me know, but I've got all the remedy you/we will need to get you up and running! Just a little longer and you'll be up and running.

@@CoreHawk3D My throttle is in pieces in the bin,it will be gone in the morning.

@@Jellybeantiger ah, RIP throttle. I'm very sorry to hear this. Let's keep talking about ways to get you back up and running.

@@CoreHawk3D I was going to buy again but sold out. My anxiety got the better of me when I threw my brand new throttle in the bin after failing to install.

@@Jellybeantiger Thank you! Please reach out/let me know as soon as you've got questions or issues!

No, and it's because I didn't design it to work that way. I want to keep the magnets opposite the PC board to mitigate and kind of EM interference. Are you trying to make a detent have a stronger feel to it?

@@CoreHawk3D Yes. I play star citizen. And The 50% is critical. I have some other feedback about the slider I would like to keep private. May I email you?

@@adrianbishop995 by all means! [email protected].

did you buy it? it seems like they're on vacation now

@@kurkurstuff2522 nah I barely use my Joystick and if I do I'll just use a Joystick/keyboard combo

Good question, it's up to you for what you'd prefer. In my experience, detents are used to let you know when you're going over a key or important throttle position (afterburner, reverse thrust, fuel cutoff). Using every detent will not tell your hand much I don't think and it may prevent you from setting the throttle at any position as the magnets pull it toward them. Also, the closeness of the magnets to each other will lower/blend the pull/push effect, almost smearing the tactile feedback together. I'd recommend a WEP position and a fuel cutoff position, depending on the plane although I don't remember there being any planes that would shut off at 0%. Also, what a legendary game. Have you found a reliable way to activate the water=4 setting?? I can't get mine to let me use the "perfect" setting for scenery :/

@@CoreHawk3D I thought it was in the ini file?

Hello! So the first part: can you FEEL the clicking in the handle of the throttle as it moves past the clicky points? If not, then no need to worry. The hockey stick is toleranced to retain the magnets mainly laterally while allowing enough room for repeated install/uninstalls. A fine line to walk! As far as the rebound for the WEP magnet, it does lose it's effectiveness at higher friction settings. The magnets are small and the space is somewhat limited in there so it won't push back super hard.

Thanks for the feedback and questions! As far as I know, the friction adjust has been there since 2018 when I bought my first TWCS. Still the same on a model bought a year ago. Weird to think I began designing this thing over 5 years ago already! The noise, I wouldn't give it too much thought. As long as the hockey stick itself isn't rubbing the slider and it's just the magnet rattling a little in it's slot on the hockey stick, you should be good. Nothing a little grease, rubber cement, or hot glue couldn't fix. cheers!

thanks for the feedback! Another happy pilot! yay!!

they sure are! You can find them on amazon by searching Igus LM8UU linear bushing.

I am trying to figure out same thing

I just watched this and read your comment, I think the only way to realistically change detents without having to open the whole thing up would be a new bottom plate. At that point, a bottom plate with removable plate inserts with magnet holes could be the answer

How did you know that?

Hello! sorry for the response delay. Day job has me slammed. I personally enjoy the polymer ones more. The smoothness and modulation of friction you can have through the downward pressure on the handle as well as the underside adjustment plays very well. Only con worth mentioning is that they are lighter than the metal ones. The added weight for the metal bearings feels nice. For the metal bearings, it works very well too but they roll so well that no downward force will ever increase friction it's own (think of when you might be in close proximity to something and white-knuckling the controller). You are limited to the friction adjustment underneath which still works well but don't have that extra modulation / silky smooth feel from the polys. You can feel the rolling of the bearing balls too, so it's not quite as glassy smooth... still a night and day difference from stock though!

uh-oh! Cool story at least?

@@CoreHawk3D nah not really. Was cutting some wood at home and the circular saw I was using came back at my arm. A little bit more and my hand would be a goner.

@@CoreHawk3D mine is in warranty still, since day one I've been thinking about the linear bearing thing. I'm not sure if I should Open it just yet.

@@capivaraofwar as far as injury stories go thats pretty decent! Wishing you a speedy recovery!

I got the set with both types. Both were absolutely super smooth, with zero sticking. Either one is a huge improvement to the original, and I didn't find that much difference between them. In the end I went with the bearings because I felt that I got a wider range of resistance in conjunction with the unit's screw-adjustable setting using the leaf springs. So I can adjust it based on what I was playing/flying. At the low end, the bearings can be almost friction-less, but then every time you barely bump your desk/table or even yank your joystick it can be enough for the throttle to shift. The way I have it set up now is I can just push it forward using a 4-inch wire twist-tie without it bending. I didn't use the magnets because I didn't want anything but a nice smooth slide from min to max.

Hmmm I may have to look into it...

fair and understandable! thanks for the comment. I'm still getting my US based counterpart up and running, should be soon.

Thank you! I've attempted it multiple times at this point. I am getting a supplier set up in the states to start handling my orders so I can focus back on R&D, keeping up with orders is all I've been able to do recently. The main PCB/rudder sensor is at a pretty odd angle, getting the dynamics right to accommodate a comfortable orientation for the rudder paddles has proven more difficult than I thought.

Hello! thanks for asking. I'd recommend wiping all but a thin film of the old lube off, it'll lower dirt and dust accumulation. Plus for either, the metal bearings come pre-lubed and the bushings self lubricate so you're double-covered either way!

Thank you! Correct, no need to install the hockey stick. You can also remove the magnet in the slider as another option.

Hey! Yeah... took me a while to make the video, appreciably late after the release of the Mk3 slider on Etsy. I'm glad to hear you were still able to install correctly! Yeah, I agree. something special about the feel of a throttle, I prefer it! Enjoy!!

thank you very much for the feedback!

Do you currently have one? they come with light machine oil, pre-lubricated. Perhaps a light film of general purpose grease will work. Avoid large quantities of high-viscosity stuff since it will slow the individual bearing balls and make it seem "grindy."

@@CoreHawk3D hi, I got myself few linear bearings and a 3d print. Works great except the "grindy" feeling you mentioned. Might look into lube options, thanks :)