Thanks for your feedback! I'm going to be doing some pattern & sewing project tutorials soon 😊

Amazing! 🤩 I'm sure it will be beautiful

Thank you! 🙏 Your comment means so much. Yes, you can use my Oversized Shirt Block (link below) to make a man's shirt - I've made one for my husband using it. There are no darts, and the shoulder is quite dropped, so it looks good on wider shoulders too. www.cliqdpatternkits.com/products/oversized-shirt-pattern-kit All the pattern changes in the Oversized Shirt Guide are unisex too. The Guide covers topics like changing the length, front button placket style, collar, yoke, shoulder seam and sleeve style. Plus it will show you how to add volume and design features like pockets, belts & roll-up sleeve tabs...so it covers a lot.

Good idea! I'll put that on my to-do-list 😊

You're welcome!

Thanks so much for your comment! ❤️ My Oversized Shirt Block (link below) can be used for men and women. I've made a shirt for my husband using it. There are no darts, and the shoulder is quite dropped, so it looks good on wider shoulders too. www.cliqdpatternkits.com/products/oversized-shirt-pattern-kit All the pattern changes in the Oversized Shirt Guide are unisex too. The Guide covers topics like changing the length, front button placket style, collar, yoke, shoulder seam and sleeve style. Plus it will show you how to add volume and design features like pockets, belts & roll-up sleeve tabs...so it covers a lot.

I'd love to see a photo 😊 You can send it to my CLIQD email [email protected] And then I can tell you what they've done.

You're welcome! Glad you enjoyed it 😊

Thank you! 😊

Glad you enjoyed it! 😊

You're welcome! And good timing - I'm actually finishing a 'How to Copy Your Clothes' video right now. It should be ready and on KZbin by the end of next week. It will show you how to trace sleeves and capture the ease in them too. 😊

@@PatternMakingWithLeigh So looking forward to your ‘How to Copy Your Clothes’ Video…Thank You Leigh, I am waiting on pins and needles 😂🥰

Good question! 😊 My ruler doesn't have a brand. But it is a B-95 45cm & 18" Metric and inch Grading Ruler. I don't have any brand preferences. But I had a look on Amazon and the Dihan one (link below) looks very close to mine. www.amazon.com.au/Dihan-B95-Grading-Handicraft-Patchwork/dp/B0BRK3Y2S8

Thanks for your comment - and good question! 😊 My ruler doesn't have a brand. But it is a B-95 45cm & 18" Metric and inch Grading Ruler. I don't have any brand preferences. But I had a look on Amazon and the Dihan one (link below) looks very close to mine. www.amazon.com.au/Dihan-B95-Grading-Handicraft-Patchwork/dp/B0BRK3Y2S8

You're welcome! 😊

Fair point. It's really hard to find good blocks that are customised to your measurements. If you're having trouble with fitting patterns, I've just done a couple of videos on it. Part 1 | Understanding Ease & How to Custom Grade Your Pattern - kzbin.info/www/bejne/gpXcY4ifrst_o8U Part 2 | How to Fit Your Toile - kzbin.info/www/bejne/npTMmIR3mdWaeM0 Also, I've almost finished editing a vide on on 'How to Clone Your Favourite Clothes' so that will teach you how to make your own blocks from clothes you actually like the fit of - hope this helps 😊

That's so great to hear! Thank you 😊

Hi Nemo, how are you? With the armhole ease, I usually make the front approx. 2 mm bigger - but they're pretty much the same. So move the shoulder notch, so it's near the centre of the ease (this is assuming your shoulder seam is on the shoulder). So, if there are stress lines on the sleeve, that means you'll need to add more fabric to the sleeve head. You shouldn't need to adjust the armhole at all. In general, excess or gaping means you need to take some out. And stress lines mean you need to add some more fabric (stress lines will usually point to where you need to add the fabric too, which is helpful). Don't know if you've seen it yet, but I just realised a 2 part series of fitting dress that you might find helpful (links below). Towards the end of part 2 I talk about sleeves. If you like at 43:00 the sketch on the right is essentially what you need to do to your sleeve head if there are stress lines at the top. In this video, the adjustment is being made because the armhole changed, but you'd do the same thing if you're sleeve head was tight at the top. Part 1 | How to Custom Grade Your Pattern - kzbin.info/www/bejne/gpXcY4ifrst_o8U Part 2 | How to Fit Your Toile - kzbin.info/www/bejne/npTMmIR3mdWaeM0 Let me know if you've any more questions. Really value your feedback 😊

@PatternMakingWithLeigh Hi Leigh, I am ok thanks. Hope you're well. Thank you so much for the comprehensive explanation. You're truly a professional. Thank you.

I'm so glad you liked the tracing tip! It makes things so much quicker and more accurate. When you say transfer the pattern onto material, do you mean to create a sample or toile? I usually just cut around the pattern piece (as I always use paper not card). However, I will mark any drills holes with a purple vanishing marker (and then sew it soon after so the marks don't disappear). I remember when I studied pattern making at FIT in NYC (ages ago) someone suggested using those dyed papers and drawing over it with a tracing wheel to transfer the lines - is that the technique you are referring to? I found it a fit fiddly, and the lines didn't always show up on darker fabrics. And yes, definitely need to get onto trouser. Will do it soon! 😊

Glad you liked the video! I actually just realised a video on Fitting Dress Patterns & Blocks. It's over 2 separate videos and I've included the link to part 2 below as it has a whole section on fitting the armhole (it's at 33:05). The video is for fitted dresses, but it might help you with your shirt armholes. kzbin.info/www/bejne/npTMmIR3mdWaeM0 I'll let you know when I make a pant fitting video 😊

@@PatternMakingWithLeigh thank you!

Glad you enjoyed it!

Yes, thanks for the tip! I was recording on my camera and was looking at myself instead of the camera - definitely something to work on 😂 Also, thanks for flagging that I didn't explain what blocks were. I've covered it in a couple of my other videos, but should have mentioned it here. Blocks are basic, simple patterns which pattern cutters use as a base to create patterns for designs. A fashion studio will usually have a range of dress, shirt & trouser blocks. Blocks are simple, so they only have the seams and darts needed to get the desired fit. Let me know if you've any more questions.

Hi, great question! And I wish I had a solution for you. I've never used the top extension idea professionally. Usually we just add the pocket bag, and if there is a waist seam or style line we extend the pocket bag to it to get more support. Let me have a think, and I'll let you know if I come up with anything 😊

@@PatternMakingWithLeigh Thanks! Pockets are so important. I saw a really clever inseam pocket in a slim 60s shift dress recently on a TV show. It had a concealed zip and was rectangular - maybe 2” deep x 5-6” long. Just big enough for money, key and lippy without ruining the slim line. Brilliant. Made me think about pockets differently.

@@IndigoSew Love that idea! Will have to check it out. Would be great to see a video on different pocket solutions 😊

You're welcome 😊

Thanks for your comment! I don't have a measurement chart for the sleeve values. I learnt about them at Saint Martins in London (so I'm not sure if everyone in the industry is aware of them, or what percentage use them). When I was studying they just gave us the numbers and what 'style' they create (e.g. loose blouse, t-shirt). What details would you like on the measurement chart?

You're welcome! Let me know if you have any issues you want a video on 😊

Thanks for your feedback! I actually did a pattern making short course at FIT over a decade ago when I was living in New York - it was really great. I've just posted part 2 of this series (kzbin.info/www/bejne/npTMmIR3mdWaeM0) No pressure to watch it, but I would love to get feedback from someone who has been sewing and making their own clothes for awhile. I tried to cover everything, but I'm sure I've forgotten things or could explain things more. 😊

You can get the kit on my website www.cliqdpatternkits.com/products/one-dart-fitted-dress-pattern-kit I have PDF and printed versions available - although I'd recommend the PDF as you can print it again and again to create lots of patterns 😊

Thanks for your comment! 😊 You don't need to include ANY of the seam allowances in your measurement. Just measure along the seam where the sleeve will be sewn to the armhole. Let me know if you have any other questions.

You're welcome!

Thank you! The bay Islands look so beautiful 😍

I did went to school for making pattern 20years ago! I forgot almost all When I did found your video I was so happy I wish you could be my teacher, you have a way to explain is so understandable My dream is to make beautiful summer 👗 dresses, Thank you!

@@sl442 You can do it!! You can definitely make a beautiful summer dress! I'm releasing part 2 of this video later today, so you'll be able to fit it too 😊 Let me know if there is anything in particular you want to know to make your dress.

Great idea! I can do a video on that. Do you want to know how I approach making a pattern too? Like how I analyse a design, and how I decide whether to drape it or use a block? That kind of thing?

Didn't notice this till you pointed it out, so thanks for the feedback! I've just started this channel, so always looking for ways to make my videos better. I film with my phone, but I guess I'm looking at the wrong part of the screen....

I saw it was a new channel, so that's why I commented. @@PatternMakingWithLeigh

@@dianepark9188 I've been looking at all my videos and they're all slightly off 😂 Thanks for the tip!

​@dianepark9188 DO YOU REALIZE ALL VIDEOS ON KZbin ARE FREE??? You are so ungrateful and most annoying for all viewers as well as for this kind lady. WHAT THE HELL DO YOU CARE IF SHE DOESN'T LOOK AT YOU, IF THAT IS WHAT YOU ARE FINDING FAULT WITH??? RESPECT OTHERS

Or perhaps you should look inwards and be more understanding of people who may find eye contact difficult

Just checked out Chris Sartorial - thanks for the recommendation. His videos look great! 😊 And completely agree re draping blocks vs flat pattern making them. Draping is the way to go!

Where to find a good mannequin!?

@@velvetstitching3631 Yes, I've had a couple of requests for a video on this. Was also thinking of doing one on measuring your body and then padding out a mannequin to your measurements - would that be helpful?

Good question! I studied pattern making at Saint Martins, so I probably got my first fitted sleeve measurements from them. They also taught me about the style values for cap heights (although they didn't call them styles values). Since then, I kept refining my fitted sleeve measurements over my career, and settled on these ones a couple of years ago. For the oversized styles, I actually never wrote them down before I did this video. I was teaching sleeves to my students, and told them my fitted numbers and was like, you know you can do the rest when you have experience. And I kind of walked away thinking that wasn't very helpful. So, I went through all my pattern blocks and had a look at the numbers I used.

Thanks for your feedback! I tried to create the video I wish I'd had when I was starting out, so glad to hear you found it useful 😊

Thank you! 🥰

That's a great idea! Thank you so much for your comment - I'll add it to my to-do-list 😊

Thanks for your comment! I actually have a whole video on drafting the perfect shirt collar if you're interested 😊 kzbin.info/www/bejne/iXSonJSAa8RooJY

Thanks so much for flagging this! It's a really good point. Annoyingly I can't go back and edit the video, but I'm going to do a full video on best practise for truing seams, so I'll include this content again with lots of colours so it's clear 😊

@@PatternMakingWithLeigh You are such a gem . Thank you. Looking forward to it.

Glad you enjoyed the video! 🥰

Thank you for taking the time to comment - means so much! I tried to create the video I wish I'd had when I was studying fashion. Hope it helps you create some beautiful sleeve patterns! 🥰

@@PatternMakingWithLeigh I am sure it will! I can’t wait to try it. 😀

So great to hear you found the video useful! Sleeves can be tricky, so let me know if you have any questions 😊

Thank you Leigh. I am 75 and have been sewing most of my life but my shape is changing and there is too much pattern modification to make, easier to draft from scratch, hence attempting to teach myself some skills.

@@skywatcher8045 Yes, completely agree! Especially if you haven't made the pattern yourself. I always find it's best to do something from scratch. 😊

@@skywatcher8045 I'm also releasing part 1 of my video on how to fit dress sewing patterns and blocks tomorrow - this should help you too!

Yeah I only saw it when I started working in the industry. They don't really teach this dart in books or universities - maybe because you need to drape it, rather than use flat pattern making? It's so good though! It's the most efficient way to sculpt the front, and you can really sculpt the under bust too. Also, don't know if you've ever used the slash and spread technique to combine two darts on a 'standard' block? But when you put them together the dart gets really big, so there is always a risk you'll get a sharp point over the bust when you sew it. But this type of dart is really small, so it looks great over the bust.

Thanks so much for flagging this! I should have made it more clear in the video. The shoulder notch doesn't move. I've just moved the 'line' I used to draft the head, so it is in the centre. Does that make sense?

Thanks for taking the time to leave a comment! Great to hear you loved the level of detail - I worry that I get a bit carried away sometimes 😂

Thank you! 🥰 Let me know if there is anything you want to see.

Great questions! Thanks so much for commenting. Do you mean drag lines on the lower half of the sleeve? So, when the arm is (naturally) bent there are some lines? I've never done this before (professionally), but I don't see why you couldn't slightly tilt the sleeve below the elbow, and ease the excess in (rather than having a dart). Let me explain... For a fitted style, the elbow dart is usually 2.5cm (1"), which is way too big to ease in without seeing any gathers. But, if you halved the amount (or maybe slightly more than half - depending on your fabric), I don't see why you couldn't ease it in, rather than creating a dart. The amount would be small enough so you wouldn't see any gathers, but you'd still be able to accommodate the bend of the arm. Does that make sense? Now that I'm writing this, I think this is actually a really great idea. I might have to do a V2 Sleeve video on it. 😊

Also, would you mind clarifying what you mean by 'flat pile'? I'm in the process of creating a Dress Sewing Pattern & Block Fitting video (and I'll be fitting a sleeve), so I can include this in that video 🥰

@@PatternMakingWithLeigh Thank you, good idea, I shall try.

@@PatternMakingWithLeigh flat toile, i.e. the cut trial fabric.

@@avdm196 Great! Let me know how you go 😊