Conquer Your Fear: How to Draft ANY Basic Sleeve Pattern (Not Just Fitted)

[@romangladiator1106]

As a beginner, I want to understand the craft of making clothes, and these types of videos are really helpful. Thank you.

[@PatternMakingWithLeigh]

Thank you! I really appreciate your feedback 🥰

[@ChairVi1012]

It’s by far the best sleeves tutorial I’ve ever seen. I’ve studying fashion for 4 years and sleeves always give me a headache, thank you so much!!!

[@PatternMakingWithLeigh]

You're welcome!

[@caraid9263]

Amazing tutorial, everything seems so clear to me now, you really took the fear and mystery away from sleeves!!

[@PatternMakingWithLeigh]

That's so great to hear! Thank you 😊

[@hildadavids217]

Thank you, for a detailed tutorial, much appreciated.

[@PatternMakingWithLeigh]

Thanks for taking the time to leave a comment! Great to hear you loved the level of detail - I worry that I get a bit carried away sometimes 😂

[@zoolena]

Thank you so much!! This is the best tutorial on sleeves. No one has explained it so well. Definitely would love more videos ❤❤❤

[@PatternMakingWithLeigh]

You're welcome! Let me know if you have any issues you want a video on 😊

[@sewmytroublesaway]

This is absolutely amazing. Thank you! And keep em coming 😉😍 please 🙏

[@PatternMakingWithLeigh]

Thank you! 🥰 Let me know if there is anything you want to see.

[@melissagraham4569]

This is so great! Thank you! I have watched several sleeve-drafting videos and yours is so much clearer. Thank you, I feel I understand for the first time ❤

[@PatternMakingWithLeigh]

Thank you for taking the time to comment - means so much! I tried to create the video I wish I'd had when I was studying fashion. Hope it helps you create some beautiful sleeve patterns! 🥰

[@melissagraham4569]

@@PatternMakingWithLeigh I am sure it will! I can’t wait to try it. 😀

[@portiamafrika225]

Thank you very much for this detailed tutorial. I appreciate you❤

[@PatternMakingWithLeigh]

Thank you! 🥰 So great to hear you liked the tutorial

[@irenespanner6500]

This sleeve drafting video was the best I’ve seen and I’ll definitely be trying it out. Thank you

[@PatternMakingWithLeigh]

You're welcome! 😊

[@skywatcher8045]

Thank you for all this detail, you have answered a raft of questions for me. I am new to drafting and this is time I have fully understood a number of points, including the curving of the sleeve length.

[@PatternMakingWithLeigh]

So great to hear you found the video useful! Sleeves can be tricky, so let me know if you have any questions 😊

[@skywatcher8045]

Thank you Leigh. I am 75 and have been sewing most of my life but my shape is changing and there is too much pattern modification to make, easier to draft from scratch, hence attempting to teach myself some skills.

[@PatternMakingWithLeigh]

@@skywatcher8045 Yes, completely agree! Especially if you haven't made the pattern yourself. I always find it's best to do something from scratch. 😊

[@PatternMakingWithLeigh]

@@skywatcher8045 I'm also releasing part 1 of my video on how to fit dress sewing patterns and blocks tomorrow - this should help you too!

[@RoyalPineapple-dk2vg]

Leigh, You are just AWESOME!! I am going to try, I have a fave dress, the way the skirt portion drapes and fits, but to not take apart the dress, I will lay it flat as can and with pins with paper and a cardboard backing, 'trace' the dress -- I did wonder how I was going to do the sleeves -- THANK YOU SO MUCH!!!

[@PatternMakingWithLeigh]

You're welcome! And good timing - I'm actually finishing a 'How to Copy Your Clothes' video right now. It should be ready and on KZbin by the end of next week. It will show you how to trace sleeves and capture the ease in them too. 😊

[@RoyalPineapple-dk2vg]

@@PatternMakingWithLeigh So looking forward to your ‘How to Copy Your Clothes’ Video…Thank You Leigh, I am waiting on pins and needles 😂🥰

[@esperansaloughran693]

Very real life thinking here, worked for me, after watch so many videos. Makes total sense, then learning the techniques for fitting is also invaluable.

[@PatternMakingWithLeigh]

Thanks for your feedback! I tried to create the video I wish I'd had when I was starting out, so glad to hear you found it useful 😊

[@aidavillegas8052]

Thank you for passing on all your experience and tips. I really appreciate it ❤

[@PatternMakingWithLeigh]

You're welcome 😊

[@jpnewman075]

What an excellent tutorial. I studied briefly at London College of fashion and been a hobbiest for years reading and buying countless books. According to Winifred & Alfred plus many other books, one is instructed to measure the outer armhole, but they never mention whether to include the seam allowance at the shoulder point or the seam allowance at the yoke (if using 1cm SA this would add 4cm). Would love to know how you measure the armhole. Thank you again. Have just subscribed to your channel and can’t wait to scroll through all your content.

[@PatternMakingWithLeigh]

Thanks for your comment! 😊 You don't need to include ANY of the seam allowances in your measurement. Just measure along the seam where the sleeve will be sewn to the armhole. Let me know if you have any other questions.

[@nusaibahibraheem8183]

Thank you so much for this video. But I have a question. I sometimes see special occasion dresses that have sleeves that allow a lot of mobility, the fitted bodice if these dresses doesn't move or barely moves when the arms are moving, I wish I can send you a picture.

[@PatternMakingWithLeigh]

I'd love to see a photo 😊 You can send it to my CLIQD email [e-mail] And then I can tell you what they've done.

[@annazann7236]

The more details the better, if you ask me :). A question though: when centering a grain line you moved top point of the sleeve to the back slightly. How do you still have 1cm and 0.8cm ease (f en b), when curves have now different length than when originally drawn? Is this this new top point suppose to still end at the shoulder seam?

[@PatternMakingWithLeigh]

Thanks so much for flagging this! I should have made it more clear in the video. The shoulder notch doesn't move. I've just moved the 'line' I used to draft the head, so it is in the centre. Does that make sense?

[@regalrose3365]

Love this, thank you. It's good to understand why/how to do things.

[@PatternMakingWithLeigh]

Glad you enjoyed the video! 🥰

[@avdm196]

Very good and detailed lesson. I like the on-depth approach with the why and how as well as how to correct it if something has gone wrong. Since not everybody has a (fitted) dressform, is it possible to show the corrections on the flat tpile as well? Is there a way to reduce the draglines in a fitted sleeve without creating an elbow dart?

[@PatternMakingWithLeigh]

Great questions! Thanks so much for commenting. Do you mean drag lines on the lower half of the sleeve? So, when the arm is (naturally) bent there are some lines? I've never done this before (professionally), but I don't see why you couldn't slightly tilt the sleeve below the elbow, and ease the excess in (rather than having a dart). Let me explain... For a fitted style, the elbow dart is usually 2.5cm (1"), which is way too big to ease in without seeing any gathers. But, if you halved the amount (or maybe slightly more than half - depending on your fabric), I don't see why you couldn't ease it in, rather than creating a dart. The amount would be small enough so you wouldn't see any gathers, but you'd still be able to accommodate the bend of the arm. Does that make sense? Now that I'm writing this, I think this is actually a really great idea. I might have to do a V2 Sleeve video on it. 😊

[@PatternMakingWithLeigh]

Also, would you mind clarifying what you mean by 'flat pile'? I'm in the process of creating a Dress Sewing Pattern & Block Fitting video (and I'll be fitting a sleeve), so I can include this in that video 🥰

[@avdm196]

@@PatternMakingWithLeigh Thank you, good idea, I shall try.

[@avdm196]

@@PatternMakingWithLeigh flat toile, i.e. the cut trial fabric.

[@PatternMakingWithLeigh]

@@avdm196 Great! Let me know how you go 😊

[@NemoNAzad]

Hi Leigh. Wonderful video. There's nothing like that anywhere. Thank you. I would like to ask if the back armhole ease and front armhole ease can be different (as in your video)? Or I should move the top notch (shoulder seam notch) forward or backward to equalise the ease? Another question: When you want to release the stress, do you reduce the curve from the sleeve pattern, or do you add more fabric to the armhole on the bodice? Thank you so much.

[@PatternMakingWithLeigh]

Hi Nemo, how are you? With the armhole ease, I usually make the front approx. 2 mm bigger - but they're pretty much the same. So move the shoulder notch, so it's near the centre of the ease (this is assuming your shoulder seam is on the shoulder). So, if there are stress lines on the sleeve, that means you'll need to add more fabric to the sleeve head. You shouldn't need to adjust the armhole at all. In general, excess or gaping means you need to take some out. And stress lines mean you need to add some more fabric (stress lines will usually point to where you need to add the fabric too, which is helpful). Don't know if you've seen it yet, but I just realised a 2 part series of fitting dress that you might find helpful (links below). Towards the end of part 2 I talk about sleeves. If you like at 43:00 the sketch on the right is essentially what you need to do to your sleeve head if there are stress lines at the top. In this video, the adjustment is being made because the armhole changed, but you'd do the same thing if you're sleeve head was tight at the top. Part 1 | How to Custom Grade Your Pattern - kzbin.info/www/bejne/gpXcY4ifrst_o8U Part 2 | How to Fit Your Toile - kzbin.info/www/bejne/npTMmIR3mdWaeM0 Let me know if you've any more questions. Really value your feedback 😊

[@NemoNAzad]

@PatternMakingWithLeigh Hi Leigh, I am ok thanks. Hope you're well. Thank you so much for the comprehensive explanation. You're truly a professional. Thank you.

[@PhyllisGordon-ui4sg]

Do you have a measurement chart for the sleeve value? Essentially, what percentage does the industry use to determine the sleeve value? Thank you.

[@PatternMakingWithLeigh]

Thanks for your comment! I don't have a measurement chart for the sleeve values. I learnt about them at Saint Martins in London (so I'm not sure if everyone in the industry is aware of them, or what percentage use them). When I was studying they just gave us the numbers and what 'style' they create (e.g. loose blouse, t-shirt). What details would you like on the measurement chart?

[@MaggieWaffles]

Amazing video! I have one question: where do you obtain the numbers you put as guides to draw the curves? Or its experience? Ty for this incredible learning resource!

[@PatternMakingWithLeigh]

Good question! I studied pattern making at Saint Martins, so I probably got my first fitted sleeve measurements from them. They also taught me about the style values for cap heights (although they didn't call them styles values). Since then, I kept refining my fitted sleeve measurements over my career, and settled on these ones a couple of years ago. For the oversized styles, I actually never wrote them down before I did this video. I was teaching sleeves to my students, and told them my fitted numbers and was like, you know you can do the rest when you have experience. And I kind of walked away thinking that wasn't very helpful. So, I went through all my pattern blocks and had a look at the numbers I used.