Conquer Your Fear: How to Draft ANY Basic Sleeve Pattern (Not Just Fitted)

[@ChairVi1012]

It’s by far the best sleeves tutorial I’ve ever seen. I’ve studying fashion for 4 years and sleeves always give me a headache, thank you so much!!!

[@PatternMakingWithLeigh]

You're welcome!

[@Southafrica-g5u]

I am so happy, wver so happy, having found your video. Moat clearest i have wver watched and inhave watched many. Rhanky you very much.

[@PatternMakingWithLeigh]

You're welcome! I'm so glad you found it helpful. 😊

[@aidavillegas8052]

Thank you for passing on all your experience and tips. I really appreciate it ❤

[@PatternMakingWithLeigh]

You're welcome 😊

[@skywatcher8045]

Thank you for all this detail, you have answered a raft of questions for me. I am new to drafting and this is time I have fully understood a number of points, including the curving of the sleeve length.

[@PatternMakingWithLeigh]

So great to hear you found the video useful! Sleeves can be tricky, so let me know if you have any questions 😊

[@skywatcher8045]

Thank you Leigh. I am 75 and have been sewing most of my life but my shape is changing and there is too much pattern modification to make, easier to draft from scratch, hence attempting to teach myself some skills.

[@PatternMakingWithLeigh]

@@skywatcher8045 Yes, completely agree! Especially if you haven't made the pattern yourself. I always find it's best to do something from scratch. 😊

[@PatternMakingWithLeigh]

@@skywatcher8045 I'm also releasing part 1 of my video on how to fit dress sewing patterns and blocks tomorrow - this should help you too!

[@romangladiator1106]

As a beginner, I want to understand the craft of making clothes, and these types of videos are really helpful. Thank you.

[@PatternMakingWithLeigh]

Thank you! I really appreciate your feedback 🥰

[@harshiwijayawickrama3403]

This gave me answers to lot of doubts I had. Thank you!

[@PatternMakingWithLeigh]

@@harshiwijayawickrama3403 No worries! Glad you found it useful 😊

[@melissagraham4569]

This is so great! Thank you! I have watched several sleeve-drafting videos and yours is so much clearer. Thank you, I feel I understand for the first time ❤

[@PatternMakingWithLeigh]

Thank you for taking the time to comment - means so much! I tried to create the video I wish I'd had when I was studying fashion. Hope it helps you create some beautiful sleeve patterns! 🥰

[@melissagraham4569]

@@PatternMakingWithLeigh I am sure it will! I can’t wait to try it. 😀

[@esperansaloughran693]

Very real life thinking here, worked for me, after watch so many videos. Makes total sense, then learning the techniques for fitting is also invaluable.

[@PatternMakingWithLeigh]

Thanks for your feedback! I tried to create the video I wish I'd had when I was starting out, so glad to hear you found it useful 😊

[@nutella9446]

Can you please make a video on two piece sleeves ( tailored sleeves ) they are the most challenging for me and you’re the only creator who goes in depth and gives us what actually works

[@PatternMakingWithLeigh]

Great idea! I'll put it on my list 😊

[@julmachuca]

yes!!! that would be great!!

[@Fluffydog794]

Thanks Leigh. This is such a comprehensive tutorial, I absolutely love all the details and the reasoning behind it all. Keep up the great work!

[@irenespanner6500]

This sleeve drafting video was the best I’ve seen and I’ll definitely be trying it out. Thank you

[@PatternMakingWithLeigh]

You're welcome! 😊

[@zoolena]

Thank you so much!! This is the best tutorial on sleeves. No one has explained it so well. Definitely would love more videos ❤❤❤

[@PatternMakingWithLeigh]

You're welcome! Let me know if you have any issues you want a video on 😊

[@RoyalPineapple-dk2vg]

Leigh, You are just AWESOME!! I am going to try, I have a fave dress, the way the skirt portion drapes and fits, but to not take apart the dress, I will lay it flat as can and with pins with paper and a cardboard backing, 'trace' the dress -- I did wonder how I was going to do the sleeves -- THANK YOU SO MUCH!!!

[@PatternMakingWithLeigh]

You're welcome! And good timing - I'm actually finishing a 'How to Copy Your Clothes' video right now. It should be ready and on KZbin by the end of next week. It will show you how to trace sleeves and capture the ease in them too. 😊

[@RoyalPineapple-dk2vg]

@@PatternMakingWithLeigh So looking forward to your ‘How to Copy Your Clothes’ Video…Thank You Leigh, I am waiting on pins and needles 😂🥰

[@PatternMakingWithLeigh]

Hi, I haven't finished editing my whole Copy Your Clothes video yet, but I've just posted the Sleeve section. Hope it helps! 😊 kzbin.info/www/bejne/rGWxYoWcd9eel8k

[@sewmytroublesaway]

This is absolutely amazing. Thank you! And keep em coming 😉😍 please 🙏

[@PatternMakingWithLeigh]

Thank you! 🥰 Let me know if there is anything you want to see.

[@caraid9263]

Amazing tutorial, everything seems so clear to me now, you really took the fear and mystery away from sleeves!!

[@PatternMakingWithLeigh]

That's so great to hear! Thank you 😊

[@hildadavids217]

Thank you, for a detailed tutorial, much appreciated.

[@PatternMakingWithLeigh]

Thanks for taking the time to leave a comment! Great to hear you loved the level of detail - I worry that I get a bit carried away sometimes 😂

[@portiamafrika225]

Thank you very much for this detailed tutorial. I appreciate you❤

[@PatternMakingWithLeigh]

Thank you! 🥰 So great to hear you liked the tutorial

[@mateusmestre1785]

I am new to pattern drafting and sleeves have been a complete head ache until now, its the first time someone explains how a sleeve works rather than just saying do this blindly

[@PatternMakingWithLeigh]

Glad I could help! 😊

[@hurrysunkurfowdar4589]

Thank you for making it easy😊

[@PatternMakingWithLeigh]

Happy to help! 😊

[@jpnewman075]

What an excellent tutorial. I studied briefly at London College of fashion and been a hobbiest for years reading and buying countless books. According to Winifred & Alfred plus many other books, one is instructed to measure the outer armhole, but they never mention whether to include the seam allowance at the shoulder point or the seam allowance at the yoke (if using 1cm SA this would add 4cm). Would love to know how you measure the armhole. Thank you again. Have just subscribed to your channel and can’t wait to scroll through all your content.

[@PatternMakingWithLeigh]

Thanks for your comment! 😊 You don't need to include ANY of the seam allowances in your measurement. Just measure along the seam where the sleeve will be sewn to the armhole. Let me know if you have any other questions.

[@are_you_a_noahide_yet]

Thank you. I THINK that I did this correctly now. It looks proper. Sewing it all together next.

[@are_you_a_noahide_yet]

I see I made mistakes...long before I began the draft. I had enlarged the back and didn't use the new measurements. But nice smooth first draft! Do Over!

[@PatternMakingWithLeigh]

Good luck! 🍀 Let me know if you have any questions.

[@trineweknes232]

Thank you so much! Great tutorial!!!

[@PatternMakingWithLeigh]

You're welcome! 😊

[@PilatesByLisa]

You are AMAZING! I am following the Helen Joseph Armstrong method and every time I followed her chart I was getting crazy amounts of ease in the cap and a too tight bicep. I followed your value method and it just works every. time. I have made the perfect sleeve for both me and my 4 year old daughter...thank YOU for demistifying the fit of sleeves for me, you are offering so much value here for people like me who want to know the "why" behind each measurement! Ps. what do you think of HJA? is there a system you prefer? x

[@PatternMakingWithLeigh]

Thank you so much for your comment!!! I'm so glad my process has worked for you 😊 I got the HJA book when I started pattern making (like most people). I tried making blocks using it when I was starting out, but they didn't really work. However, I think it explains general theory well, so I still show my students diagrams from it so they can understand things conceptually (e.g. how to add pleats to trousers and create raglan sleeve). I don't use her measurements though. I like my students to think for themselves and use their own wardrobe for inspiration.

[@PilatesByLisa]

@ ok thanks for that! How do you teach your students to develop blocks? Do you use a method or have you devised your own? If so do you teach it online? I’m in Australia but with two kids at home I am an online learner! X

[@PatternMakingWithLeigh]

@@PilatesByLisa I'll be launching my own pattern making course next year (I'm pregnant with my 2nd right now, so need to focus on that atm) and it will be online. 😊 But in general, I would encourage you to get a mannequin and drape your own dress block, or buy a block (I sell mine on my website www.cliqdpatternkits.com/) and adapt it to your own size. I've done videos on draping and fitting dress blocks (see links below). As you probably know from trying the HJA method, it's really hard to get a good block using flat pattern making alone - the measurements just aren't enough to capture all the curves of your body. Fitting video - kzbin.info/www/bejne/gpXcY4ifrst_o8U Drape dress block - kzbin.info/www/bejne/gZe9m2x6gb2ed9E Once you have a fitted dress block, you can then start adapting it to other styles like loose dresses, shirts and jackets. And I'll be doing a video on that before the end of the year too. With trousers, TBH I usually start with a block because they are hard to get right. But, I'll be including the best method to use in my online course next year. Let me know if you have any more questions 🥰

[@jenavasexton1645]

On another video someone who had taken a class with a fitter who had worked for Chanel (like, the woman) mentioned something called "hanging" a sleeve. There isnt much info online but best I can find, its sort of like fitting the sleeve onto the garment while its on the person, rather than flat on the table. Of course the sleeve has to be drafted first!

[@PatternMakingWithLeigh]

Great question! 'Hanging' a sleeve is part of fitting sleeves. Essentially, when you check how a sleeve 'hangs' you are looking to see whether the centre of the sleeve is aligned with your side seam. So you need to toile your front, back and sleeve patterns, and put it on yourself / sample model. Ideally, the centre of the sleeve will be aligned with the side seam (or max 2 cm towards the front). If it isn't aligned, you need to unpin/unpick the sleeve and rotate it. Once it's rotated to the correct position, you need to adjust the armhole (on front & back patterns) at the side seam and shoulder seam, so it matches the underarm seam and shoulder notch of the sleeve. I didn't include this in the video because the video was already getting quite long and it's a bit confusing 🫤 Perhaps a good idea for a future video!

[@jenavasexton1645]

@PatternMakingWithLeigh I'd love to see it done in more detail!

[@lisaallen799]

Thankyou so much. I love the way you explain from principles rather than just 'step by step'. I'm interested in extending this knowledge to designing for plus sizes and/or very large busts (e.g. E - J cup). When designing the sleeve head, what are the principles for altering the standard distances from sleeve head diagonal for various style values? I imagine the standard numbers may not work in these circumstances? I'm finding it very difficult to find advice for drafting blocks/slopers etc when the 'standard' ratios / measurements don't work, and would LOVE to learn the underlying principles of how these 'standard' numbers might be altered in certain circumstances.

[@PatternMakingWithLeigh]

You're welcome! Glad you enjoyed the video. Are you referring to the numbers I gave to draw the sleeve head? So, the distances coming out from the diagonal straight lines? If so, these numbers give the shape of the sleeve to go around the armhole, so larger bust sizes wouldn't effect them. For larger busts, you'd make the adjustments to the darts and armhole on the front. Often, what may look like a sleeve issue, can actually be an armhole issue. Especially if the underarm is gaping or dipping down too low because the bust is pulling it as it doesn't have enough room. I feel like this is a bit of a vague answer, so if you have any photos of specific issue you want to share, feel free to email me at [e-mail] and we can discuss it further 😊

[@nusaibahibraheem8183]

Thank you so much for this video. But I have a question. I sometimes see special occasion dresses that have sleeves that allow a lot of mobility, the fitted bodice if these dresses doesn't move or barely moves when the arms are moving, I wish I can send you a picture.

[@PatternMakingWithLeigh]

I'd love to see a photo 😊 You can send it to my CLIQD email [e-mail] And then I can tell you what they've done.

[@NemoNAzad]

Hi Leigh. Wonderful video. There's nothing like that anywhere. Thank you. I would like to ask if the back armhole ease and front armhole ease can be different (as in your video)? Or I should move the top notch (shoulder seam notch) forward or backward to equalise the ease? Another question: When you want to release the stress, do you reduce the curve from the sleeve pattern, or do you add more fabric to the armhole on the bodice? Thank you so much.

[@PatternMakingWithLeigh]

Hi Nemo, how are you? With the armhole ease, I usually make the front approx. 2 mm bigger - but they're pretty much the same. So move the shoulder notch, so it's near the centre of the ease (this is assuming your shoulder seam is on the shoulder). So, if there are stress lines on the sleeve, that means you'll need to add more fabric to the sleeve head. You shouldn't need to adjust the armhole at all. In general, excess or gaping means you need to take some out. And stress lines mean you need to add some more fabric (stress lines will usually point to where you need to add the fabric too, which is helpful). Don't know if you've seen it yet, but I just realised a 2 part series of fitting dress that you might find helpful (links below). Towards the end of part 2 I talk about sleeves. If you like at 43:00 the sketch on the right is essentially what you need to do to your sleeve head if there are stress lines at the top. In this video, the adjustment is being made because the armhole changed, but you'd do the same thing if you're sleeve head was tight at the top. Part 1 | How to Custom Grade Your Pattern - kzbin.info/www/bejne/gpXcY4ifrst_o8U Part 2 | How to Fit Your Toile - kzbin.info/www/bejne/npTMmIR3mdWaeM0 Let me know if you've any more questions. Really value your feedback 😊

[@NemoNAzad]

@PatternMakingWithLeigh Hi Leigh, I am ok thanks. Hope you're well. Thank you so much for the comprehensive explanation. You're truly a professional. Thank you.

[@annazann7236]

The more details the better, if you ask me :). A question though: when centering a grain line you moved top point of the sleeve to the back slightly. How do you still have 1cm and 0.8cm ease (f en b), when curves have now different length than when originally drawn? Is this this new top point suppose to still end at the shoulder seam?

[@PatternMakingWithLeigh]

Thanks so much for flagging this! I should have made it more clear in the video. The shoulder notch doesn't move. I've just moved the 'line' I used to draft the head, so it is in the centre. Does that make sense?

[@regalrose3365]

Love this, thank you. It's good to understand why/how to do things.

[@PatternMakingWithLeigh]

Glad you enjoyed the video! 🥰

[@avdm196]

Very good and detailed lesson. I like the on-depth approach with the why and how as well as how to correct it if something has gone wrong. Since not everybody has a (fitted) dressform, is it possible to show the corrections on the flat tpile as well? Is there a way to reduce the draglines in a fitted sleeve without creating an elbow dart?

[@PatternMakingWithLeigh]

Great questions! Thanks so much for commenting. Do you mean drag lines on the lower half of the sleeve? So, when the arm is (naturally) bent there are some lines? I've never done this before (professionally), but I don't see why you couldn't slightly tilt the sleeve below the elbow, and ease the excess in (rather than having a dart). Let me explain... For a fitted style, the elbow dart is usually 2.5cm (1"), which is way too big to ease in without seeing any gathers. But, if you halved the amount (or maybe slightly more than half - depending on your fabric), I don't see why you couldn't ease it in, rather than creating a dart. The amount would be small enough so you wouldn't see any gathers, but you'd still be able to accommodate the bend of the arm. Does that make sense? Now that I'm writing this, I think this is actually a really great idea. I might have to do a V2 Sleeve video on it. 😊

[@PatternMakingWithLeigh]

Also, would you mind clarifying what you mean by 'flat pile'? I'm in the process of creating a Dress Sewing Pattern & Block Fitting video (and I'll be fitting a sleeve), so I can include this in that video 🥰

[@avdm196]

@@PatternMakingWithLeigh Thank you, good idea, I shall try.

[@avdm196]

@@PatternMakingWithLeigh flat toile, i.e. the cut trial fabric.

[@PatternMakingWithLeigh]

@@avdm196 Great! Let me know how you go 😊

[@MaggieWaffles]

Amazing video! I have one question: where do you obtain the numbers you put as guides to draw the curves? Or its experience? Ty for this incredible learning resource!

[@PatternMakingWithLeigh]

Good question! I studied pattern making at Saint Martins, so I probably got my first fitted sleeve measurements from them. They also taught me about the style values for cap heights (although they didn't call them styles values). Since then, I kept refining my fitted sleeve measurements over my career, and settled on these ones a couple of years ago. For the oversized styles, I actually never wrote them down before I did this video. I was teaching sleeves to my students, and told them my fitted numbers and was like, you know you can do the rest when you have experience. And I kind of walked away thinking that wasn't very helpful. So, I went through all my pattern blocks and had a look at the numbers I used.

[@PhyllisGordon-ui4sg]

Do you have a measurement chart for the sleeve value? Essentially, what percentage does the industry use to determine the sleeve value? Thank you.

[@PatternMakingWithLeigh]

Thanks for your comment! I don't have a measurement chart for the sleeve values. I learnt about them at Saint Martins in London (so I'm not sure if everyone in the industry is aware of them, or what percentage use them). When I was studying they just gave us the numbers and what 'style' they create (e.g. loose blouse, t-shirt). What details would you like on the measurement chart?

[@pablopessendacrichlow5533]

Hi great video! One question I have is I have used this method to create a loose sleeve pattern for a denim jacket. The curves and armhole match up perfectly but once I add seam allowance to both the armhole and sleeve cap the sleeve cap becomes longer. How do I fix this ?

[@PatternMakingWithLeigh]

Hi, thanks for your comment! Yes, adding seam allowances does make the pattern bigger, but you'll be sewing along the seam, so as long as the armhole and sleeve match along the seam it should be okay. Depending on how loose you made the sleeve, you may have a bit of ease at the top of the sleeve cap (so it would be slightly bigger). Does that answer your question?

[@missmoon.]

Hi! Great tutorial I learned a lot

[@PatternMakingWithLeigh]

Thank you! Glad you enjoyed the video. 😊 I'm planning on doing a whole series on blocks and how to adapt them from fitted to oversized. It's a big topic, but I'll share some pointers below to get you started: To make something more oversized: 1. Get your fitted dress block 2. Lower the armhole and bring it out by the desired amount. If you bring the armhole out a lot, it will drop on the person when they wear it, so just keep that in mind (so you don't lower the armhole too much as well). 3. If you want to drop the shoulder seam, just extend the shoulder seam. For a fitted dress, I do a 12 cm shoulder (from the neck). For loose shirts, I do 15 cm. I find anything in between 12-15cm looks like a poorly fitting/designed pattern. If you want a more oversized look, just keep extending the armhole. Also, whatever you do to the front (i.e. how much you drop the armhole or extend the shoulder seam) do the exact same thing on the back, and visa versa. And once I've finished the front and back, I would then create a completely new sleeve using the steps I shared in this video. 😊 Hope this helps!

[@missmoon.]

@@PatternMakingWithLeigh Omg didn't expect such a time consuming answer, that helped a lot, I planned to do 15cm so just a small drop. You're a gift and my favourite sewing teacher on youtube from the moment I saw the video, can't wait for the whole video on that topic! 🥰

[@PatternMakingWithLeigh]

@@missmoon. No worries! Let me know if you have any more questions while you go. Happy help 😊

[@maureenpaulette2051]

This is a great video! I only want comfy sleeves (and a limited comfy wardrobe) but all the books start with fitted sleeves and I never understood how to go about redesigning the sleeve. I have taken patterns of sleeves off of clothing, but never understood why I like the sleeve or how the designer achieved it. Thank you so much for this information! Looking forward to putting this information into action! ❤️

[@PatternMakingWithLeigh]

@@maureenpaulette2051 You're welcome! Glad you found it useful 😊

[@Mum-g3e]

Hi Leigh, Thank you so much for this video and for demystifying the process. I have the book Pattern Making for Fashion 1, which is brilliant but so complex to read. I also have some awesome moulages from a Gina Renee Course and want to make sleeves to go with slopers from that moulage. I was wondering, do you have Garment Ease, Shoulder Drop and Underarm Drop Values that correspond to your Sleeve Style Values? So I have 4cm body ease, an Armhole Drop 2cm higher than the bustline and a shoulder drop (ease) of .6cm on my first moulage to sloper and followed your fitted instructions for that one but if I wanted to make a Loose, TShirt or Sweatshirt do you have any of those points I could reference? Sorry if this is a too complex question for here.

[@PatternMakingWithLeigh]

Great question! And I'm really glad you asked it now because I'm currently writing a script for a video that will answer this question perfectly. Essentially, it will be about how to make fitted blocks loose and oversized 😊 In the meantime, I can answer the garment ease part (see response below) but I'll have to get back to you on the shoulder drop and underarm drop recommendations once I've finished the video - there are just way too many variables and I'd definitely need a diagram or two to explain it 😂 Garment ease - The sleeve should match the armhole measurement, so if you've already added garment ease you don't need to do anything else to the sleeve, EXCEPT check the bicep measurement is okay (i.e. has enough ease so the wearer is comfortable). I covered this a bit in the video, but let me know if you've any questions.

[@Mum-g3e]

@@PatternMakingWithLeigh Many thanks. I definitely look forward to your new video. ❤

[@Fluffydog794]

Thanks Leigh. This is such a comprehensive tutorial, I absolutely love all the details and the reasoning behind it all. Keep up the great work!

[@PatternMakingWithLeigh]

Thank you! So glad you found it useful 😊

[@deidrabenson361]

Thanks so very much for sharing this video and information!❤️

[@PatternMakingWithLeigh]

You're welcome! 🥰