@@mbb4302 www.premierindustrialcorp.com/product-p/d40006.htm

@@mbb4302 they also come with most no caulk drains

@@MoonkaiYT nah, I just always hand tighten them.

@@smaktalker use a Wingtite shower drain

@@seldon_yuan the gasket should go slightly below the top of the pipe with the beveled side up so that the nut can compress it.

@@michiganebayflipper9497 yes likely a blockage or possibly a bad pump.

@@elkskiutah8204 most if not all silicone manufacturers have a cure time on their label. With that said, I have always run water immediately after and have never had a leak.

@@andy_plumbs good to hear... Customer wanted to use his shower 4 hours after I finished, its jsut the very edge of the silicone that's exposed and the rest can cure slowly for the full 7 day cure as specified for Dow 735

@@jeffmartinez7724 thanks! I use 100% silicone on my drains and always test almost immediately after. I’ve never had any issues doing it this way. Also, I prefer the solvent weld drains to these style as there is typically less parts to fail.

@@thomasryan5681 Nope. I’ve always tested right away and never had any issues.

@@andy_plumbs Thanks. The underside gasket must be key.

Yes, this repair can be made from above by using a Wingtite shower drain. If you Google it you will find videos son how to install them.

The buffer?

@@andy_plumbs Some departments have on their test sheets "buffer PSI" as it's main purpose is to see how much of pressure fluxuation there is, usually it has to be more than 3.0 psi from what I understand. Do you check the buffer on your tests? I have to in mystate/county.

@@Invictusxiv nope, never heard of it.

Are you saying the way I tested it was incorrect? I agree that the RP should be dumping to a drain but I didn’t plumb the building.

@@andy_plumbs To measure the differential pressure across the first check valve, connect the high-pressure hose to TC#2 and the low-pressure hose to TC#3, bleed out the air and take the reading. To backpressure the second check valve with the hoses still connected to TC#2 and TC#3, bleed the air out of the vent hose by opening the low control valve and connecting the vent hose to TC#4. Open the high control valve one complete turn and observe the relief valve. If there is no discharge, the second check valve is drip-tight with backpressure. To validate that backpressure was introduced behind the second check valve and not going downstream, close TC#2 and observe the gauge. If holding steady, the backpressure of the second check valve is confirmed, and the backflow preventer test was conducted when in a static state. To trigger the relief valve, open the low control valve one-quarter turn and observe the first drip. To test the DP across the second check valve, close TCs and remove hoses. Next, connect the high-pressure hose to TC#3 and the low-pressure hose to TC#4. Bleed and take the reading. It should be one psid or greater. I refer you to videos on KZbin at jimmybakcflow.com. Also, the AWWA M14 manual has several test procedures, including the one I described. Testing is easy, but not done correctly causes concerns.

@@JimmyBackflow the procedure you’re describing is similar to how DC’s are tested, but I’ve never disconnected my hoses and jumped test cocks on a RP. I’ve always used the ASSE field test procedure book and it doesn’t mention anything of jumping test cocks either.

@@andy_plumbs To measure the DP across the RP second check valve, you must measure the pressure at TC#3 and TC#4. You will not see the steps described for measuring the DP across the second check valve because most test procedures and authorities do not require them. The problem occurs when testers fill out the form and put the DP of the first check valve in the second check valve box. This is a big problem in the industry because trainers do not explain how to measure the DP across the second check valve. If you want to measure the DP across the RP second check valve, do it correctly. If not, leave it blank. If you watch my videos, you will have a good understanding on how to test backflow preventers. The procedure is used through the NE States, NY, PA, and NJ and is outlined in the AWWA M14 Cross-connection Control Manual. Also, NEWWA provides a certification program for testing backflow preventers; a written copy of the test procedure is available.

Yep, I have no idea what original installer was thinking. All I can do is make the best of it. And thank you, I have learned over the years that having patience is one of the most important traits to have in this trade.

We were a little less but not far off.

Yeah, I get that request pretty often. I’m going to try to do a truck tour video soon!

It is hard to say without seeing it. If it looks anything like the one in this video it should just pry up.

@@andy_plumbs Thank you so much! It does look like the one in your video. God bless you Sir! 👍

I would not recommend lowering the well tank. I understand the concern for heating the well house but it is going to be a logistical nightmare for you and future contractors that have to work on it. I would look into either having the well house professionally insulated or relocating the tank to inside the house or in the crawlspace. If the crawlspace is short I would look into a horizontal tank. As far as the abandoned well in the field, I would have a well drilling contractor check it out. There are legalities and liabilities involved with abandoning wells and they need to be backfilled and closed off properly.

@@andy_plumbs Thank you! I already dug 6' under the foundation, where the water pipe enters the house. So putting vertical pressure tank should not be a problem. A) the water coming from the well goes up and then down. Even if I put pressure tank under the house, I still need to heat well house in the winter. OR NOT? B) What filtration system should I put? And how about water goes to the hydrants. We have 5 of them. C) We have 20 gallon pressure tank. Is bigger the better? What brand would you recommend?

@@genevelis6075 if you have a submersible well pump in a casing then you can eliminate the well house by relocating the pressure tank. If you have a shallow well pump it’s a different story. I would have the water tested and treated accordingly. Most well systems require a softener at the very least, sometimes more filtration for iron or manganese. The hose spigots should not be filtered. Having a bigger tank isn’t necessarily always a good thing. It depends on your usage. Too small of a tank and your well pump will run more frequently. Too big of a tank and your drawn down cycle will last forever and it’ll seem like your pressure is weak at the lower end of the cycle. For more well related information I would check out H2o Mechanic’s channel. He has a lot of great videos on wells and everything that goes with them!

@@andy_plumbs Thank you so much! My well is about 150' deep if I remember correctly. The pump push water to the top and then back poly pipe goes down to the ground, branches out to hydrants and house. I already texted to H2O channel 3 times, this guy did not respond.

@@genevelis6075 that’s a bummer. Unfortunately my well knowledge is pretty limited. I would talk with your local well contractor and get their opinion. They should be able to provide an estimate also. I hope this helps.

Everbuilt. You can get them at Home Depot.

It depends on what you’re looking at. I wouldn’t suggest anything that’s “salt free” if you’re looking to soften the water. Also I’d only recommend units with Clack control valves.

Normally nowadays that’s how it’s done on a new build or remodel however on this job they didn’t install one originally. The customer didn’t want open the wall so this is what they got.

Thanks! I get where you’re coming from with the trap but that’s all anyone uses around here. If it’s concealed I’ll use a glue trap all day.

@@andy_plumbs nice work, really enjoy the quality and variety of techniques used. keep up the good work