Part number plugs? Which plugs? Spark Plugs?

There are no crush washers on this style filter. Most Camrys do have washers on top banjo bolt fitting.

Hi Sophia. Scroll down to view other comments as it's been discussed before.

You'll need to send the Cylinder head away to a rebuild specialist. It won't be cheap. For this reason alone I'd replace the water pump with a quality GMB pump. The cost is minuscule compared to the rest of the job. The oil leak will likely be the Crankshaft seal. Change that too. The Camshaft seals will come in the head gasket kit.

The Camry shown here is a 2001 but 2002 is exactly the same unless it has an Intank fuel filter.

Can you translate to English using Google translator?

1:13 Do you know if that straw comes with the Nissan Altima 2008?My Nissan Altima is a 2008 3.5 se, It's just that my band is breaking, the mechanic says it's because the breaket is missing, is that it?

@@JoseGonzalez-ed3mz if the front bracket is missing off the power steering pump then yes the drive belt will get damaged. This reply is assuming I'm understanding the translation properly. It hasn't translated it very well.

🤣 thanks but I'm using Google translate I don't speak English very well, but if it seems that the one on the front is missing, do you know how I can buy it if it has a name in the store?

@@JoseGonzalez-ed3mz in Australia I'd need to go to a Nissan Franchise Dealer to get that bracket or an Auto Wrecker/Recycler for a secondhand one. You're speaking Spanish, so what country are you from?

You have me dying.

Thanks for your input Dave. This has been discussed before.

Perhaps you could do your own video with the information you have. When I did this job there was no information available so I worked out a method that works and shared it with others to help them. You can do that too and build on what I started.

Surely there is something out there.

Yeah fairly straight forward except for the ring that secures the assembly into the tank. They can be exceptionally tight to undo. Either buy the special tool from Ryco or cut it off and replace it. Toyota do stock them as it's a common issue.

Hopefully yours is an early enough model that it is secured with 6 mm bolts (8 mm bolt heads).

@@jamesdolautomotivediagnost9592 thanks for that info,much appreciated 👍

@@jamesdolautomotivediagnost9592 the build date is 02/06/2005.

@@jamesdolautomotivediagnost9592 i will be having a look at it tomorrow morning.

I don't specialise in these trucks so I can't answer that question. That said, manufacturers don't usually make drastic changes from model to model unless the previous design cost them a fortune in warranty claims. They conform to; if it's not broken, don't try to fix it. So, it's probably very similar.

No I haven't, sorry.

No. Just clean it out. Ideally I flush a couple of litres of Power Steering Fluid through the system before removal but only it the fluid is really black.

Hi Doug. Yes take the front bracket off to get it out. You can fit the front bracket to the pump before installing as there is more room once the adjustable slide in the Engine Block is pushed back. Pushing this right back can be finished off once the pump is out. Go through the video again. I talk about this slide or sleeve as the main cause of difficulty in removing the pump. Hope this helps.

@@jamesdolautomotivediagnost9592 Hey James, thanks for the incredibly fast reply, especially more than 3 years after you made this video!! So I never removed the bolt in the top back bracket, so the back bracket is still in place. So is the front bracket. I simply bent the sheet metal cable holder below the pump out of the way and the pump slid out. I can get the pump back up in place and the back two screws in as I mentioned, but the fronts are next to impossible without losing a pint of blood. So with the back bracket still in place, if I remove the front bracket, install it on to the pump, then slide the pump back in to place, install the back two screws loosely, then I would install the two top front bracket screws. Is that what you would suggest? Can you get a tool in and access those two top front screws even with the pulley installed? Thanks again.

@@dougjohnson504 yeah that's what I'm suggesting Doug as that's what I did. No special tools needed, it's just fiddly and slow. It's one of those 'patience and perseverance' projects. You come out the other side a changed person, no word of exaggeration here. All the best with it.

@@jamesdolautomotivediagnost9592 James you saved the day!! I am no doubt a changed person, but I'm a changed person with an installed PS pump! A couple of observations: 1) if you keep the back bracket on (i.e. you leave the top bolt in place like I did), make sure you put the back bracket bolts in last. The reason is that bracket is only being held by the one bolt and can rotate (which mine did). When I tried installing with the back bolts installed first, the front bolts didn't line up. I simply took a long extension and hammer and tapped the bracket until it lined up with the back threaded holes; 2) those two bolts on the top that hold the bracket are tough to access, but not impossible. I couldn't get a torque wrench in there but a ratcheting end wrench does the trick, albeit very slowly; 3) install the belt tensioner before you install the pump if you are replacing it too. I did not and the upper bolt is nearly inaccessible thru the PS pulley; and 4) taking of the torsion strut off does make access to the top right front bracket bolt much easier. Use a 1/4" ratchet and you can turn it in. You have to remove a lot of other hardware to get it out but it did help. I'm off to install the rack and pinion, etc... but wanted to say thanks, I really appreciate the help.

@@dougjohnson504 You're most welcome Doug. Glad I could help. Thanks for your feedback as it will help others. Have a great day. God bless.

Yes. Knocking noise on cold start is usually timing chain before the tensioner takes up the slack. How's the oil level?

Thank you. I remove by cracking of the input fuel pipe while everything is bolted up from underneath. Then do it up finger tight to stop fuel dribbling out. Then the output hose unclipped and finally the chassis mounting bolts. Once loose off the chassis the input pipe is easy to undo. Assemble in reverse order. this helps.

You can remove the top output pipe without the tool. Push the pipe in and squeeze the clip together, then slide the pipe out.

100,000 change intervals using a full kit including a water pump.