This could be an option if the anchor is fitted with the Injection Resin kit, for instance, as that usually has plenty of spare resin. It would probably not be easy to get a neat finish, and it might be arguable one of the main reasons to try filling the recesses would be to make it look neater so it might be tricky to achieve a really nice result in practice. Something a bit more runny, such as fibreglass resin, could be easier to dribble in to get to the right level if you want a flush surface. Interesting idea, though. Thanks for the suggestion.

The bolt heads are deliberately recessed to make it difficult for a thief to attack the bolts. The ball bearings are 1/4" diameter hardened steel, being hammered into a 6mm (actually 6.1mm) AF hex socket, so they are a very tight fit. You have to hit them hard to get them in! Once they're in, they are nigh-on impossible to get out. You could do it by drilling multiple holes into each head, next to and very close to the ball, and that's not easy. Even if you manage to release the ball it is still very difficult to drill-out the bolt heads (I've tried it - it took me about 10 minutes per bolt), and you've got 4 bolts to defeat, so no easy way in :-)

PragmasisSecurity. Thanks for the well explained answer! That sounds like too much time, effort and noise for the average mug to even consider. Good product you have there! ✌🙃

Glad you approve, and thanks for bothering to say so!

Hi, The 4mm thick cover is heavily reinforced by the 'outer bridge' that is welded to it being 8mm thick plus that bridge being the shape that it is. That bridge provides plenty of strength to resist all credible attacks on the edges of the cover, particularly bearing in mind that a thief would have to expose all 4 fixings sufficiently to defeat the anchor. To be honest, we tend to over-engineer a lot of our stuff and we could probably "get away" with that outer bridge being thinner in this case, but we don't want to "get away" with things - We want to make it completely obvious to a prospective thief that he is wasting his time even starting an attack. As we say, if the thief just walks away then we have done our job. Yes, the fact that it needs a chain locked through it at all times will not suit all situations. Many business locations would not need the 'removable' aspect and would just go for a simpler, permanent fit, anchor. Free samples are very rare because, as you mentioned, we are using quality materials and they are not cheap! Glad you like it :-)

Thanks. Noose chains are more expensive (for the same length of chain), but you do get more options and potentially a benefit in terms of reducing the length of chain required. We're finding they're getting more and more popular, so we're making bigger batches. The Protector 16mm noose is our newest, and that is certainly getting more popular. We're the only manufacturer, as far as I know, of a noose in such a heavy gauge of chain. We avoided doing it for years as we thought it might be too awkward to handle, but if you need the extra security and are willing to put up with it, or if it saves chain length and thus becomes easier to handle than a l-o-n-g conventional chain, then fair enough. We are happy to try things and see what people find helpful. This is a case in point. Cheers, Steve.

Glad you approve. We would love to have a distributor in Australia! We do ship direct, but the shipping costs are very high. People buy our stuff in Oz even so. It would doubtless help everyone (except the thieves) if we could get a local distributor, also for NZ. If you have any suggestions or if you might be a candidate, please e-mail us and we'll discuss. Thanks in advance.

Hi Simon, We have some ideas about the 22mm chain. Nothing much that we can share so far, I'm afraid, but we would like to use this lock in more situations, yes.

The RoundLock is made from a case-hardened Cr-Mo-Ni alloy steel. It has a 9-disc anti-pick cylinder, protected with a rotating anti-drill hardened alloy steel plate. I guess if you leave enough space for a thief to get a ridiculously big lever into the 'D', and if the lock is fixed to something sufficiently solid, then it might be possible to defeat it with some kind of levering or prying attack. If it is used properly, all this and also a bottle jack should become impossible for a thief to use. We have done tests in a big hydraulic rig and the force required to break the lock is way in excess of the capacity of the compact bottle jacks we've seen on the market. Realistically, an angle grinder is probably the only way to defeat it, and that won't be a quiet attack. I hope that helps, Steve.

PragmasisSecurity. Thank you Steve for the great response. All the info I was after! 👍The chains and locks appear to be one of the best in the market for an out of the box solution that is ready to go. There are pro's and cons to any chain and lock combo with regards for material type, strength, brittleness, ductility, price and weight. Everyone has different thoughts on what is best and different environment will demand slightly different specifications but from my research so far for varying situations, this product gets a thumbs up!👍I will be definitely purchasing one for my new custom trailer...unless you wish to send me a freebie :) Thnx again Steve for the concise reply, cheers

Hi Steve, Glad you're pleased. You were the first to work out that way of locking the chain in position through the rear axle on that bike - well done, and thanks for sharing the idea! Cheers, Steve.

The Pin is also hardened steel and even-more-impossible to cut with normal bolt croppers than a chain. Bolt croppers are still the favourite tool for motorbike thieves. Regarding grinder attacks, the cross-sectional area of the Pin is greater than a double cut on a 16mm chain, but not as great as a double cut on a 19mm chain. However, the Pin is thicker and therefore needs a deeper cut, or intersecting cuts from both sides, which is not easy for a thief to do with a cordless grinder. Then again, if you have a Pin that is a bit longer than ideal, that could attract a thief if they are willing and able to use a grinder. Our advice is that if you don't need to use the Pin, then don't. If you can put a 16mm+ chain through the frame then that is better. But, if that's not possible (or not practical) and if the alternative is to put the chain through the wheel, then a thief can simply remove the wheel and leave that behind when pinching the rest of the bike. The Pin is a much better deterrent than just putting the chain through the wheel, in our opinion. Undoing a wheel is quiet, whereas using a grinder is anything but. You can always have a loop of the chain through the wheel as well, if you wish. Our new 'DIB' D-Locks provide another option, e.g. to put one of them through the bracing on a swingarm and tether a chain to that. They should not normally be used with anything thicker than a 16mm chain as the D-Lock would likely become the weak point. They are more portable than a Pin and don't need another (expensive) lock but, like the Pin, they don't work on all bikes. These things are all like tools in a toolbox: You choose the best tool, or tools, for the job of securing your bike(s). It is not always a clear-cut decision as usability comes into it as well as how they all suit the specific bike(s) you've got. Sorry that's rather a long answer. I hope it helps. Steve.

Thank you Steve, I've got a 2017 BMW R1200GS Adventure needing security. It has spoked wheels. I've ordered your 19mm Protector Chain for home security (1.5 meters) guessing I can use less links when connecting a Pinch Pin to ground anchor close by. I've ordered the large washer also. I've also ordered a 2 meter 13mm noose chain for off-site security with the Pinch Pin arrangement. Anything else I should consider?

You're welcome. Those single-sider BMWs are brilliant with the Pin, honestly, and yes, you can interlock the Pin through whichever links you like (either cut a slit through the sleeve on the chain or cut the cable tie so you can drag the sleeve back from the end of the chain). If that helps you to keep the chain off the ground then that makes it much harder for a thief to attack, by whichever means. Beware that the 13mm chain will not fit the Pin directly. We also offer short offcuts of 16mm chain and a 2-link piece can be used as an adaptor for the 13mm. The routine is that a 13mm link goes over one of the 2-link offcut links and that (16mm) link then goes over the Pin. The D-Lock idea can help when out and about and using a 13mm chain as it is less to carry around than a Pin, 2-link adaptor plus big Squire lock. As it happens, we've just got back from a bike club meeting where we were taking photos of several bikes with the D-Lock looped through different places. We need to go through those to sort out which combinations worked so feel free to e-mail us and we can check for you, if you're interested?

Thanks Steve, yes I ordered the two links, go great advice from securityforbikes.com speaking with David. Ordered the Torc Ground Anchor (2 of them). They didn't have the pinch pin in stock, so I'm going to ride over there end of month to figure out which size I need (I live local). Yes I would be very interested in the D-Lock

Hi, The only difference between these is the cylinder inside the lock - the R1 cylinder is a high security option that can be keyed-alike with several other Squire locks, whereas the NW4 cylinder is another level up in terms of security, as it is a sophisticated design with active elements (moving parts) inside the key itself and several other anti-pick measures. The NW4 option is more expensive and we can't practically offer it keyed-alike, unfortunately. It is the ultimate specification lock from Squire. I hope that helps, Steve.

Dear Steve, thank you for your detailed explanation. Order has been placed. Look forward to receiving item and supporting British manufacture. Kind regards, Ali

Hi Adrian, You're (all) welcome. Our local scrap metal dealer was quite pleased. As steel for recycling it wasn't worth much so we were happy to give it to him for free. It was much better for us to get rid of it and to move on with another batch. That batch went through heat treatment correctly so we are happy. Thanks, Steve.

No, I'm afraid the only way to get a worthwhile fixing of a ground anchor on any kind of brick floor or on block paving or on paving slabs is to lift several of those bricks/blocks/slab(s), dig down into the soil below and then fit the ground anchor as you fill the hole with fresh concrete. Bricks/blocks/slabs are not suitable as they are, themselves, not fixed to anything. They are pretty much just sitting on the soil etc below so anything fitted to them can be compromised by lifting them away. A paving slab may be large and fairly heavy, but it is easy for a thief to use a sledgehammer to crack it in half and thus free any kind of anchor that is fitted to it. Any anchor needs to be fitted to a good solid substrate, and if there isn't one, then pouring fresh concrete allows you to make one. (Apologies for such a slow reply.)

Yes, anti-drill and anti-undo. It is actually remarkably difficult to drill-out the heads of these bolts even without the ball bearings in position. I've done it and it can take e.g. 10 minutes, per bolt, with a mains-powered drill and sharp drill bits. However, we don't want a thief to be tempted to have a go so we use the ball bearings as they basically stop you getting anywhere with drilling-out the bolt heads. It would be very difficult to undo the bolts when the anchor has been fitted with resin, as they are bonded in position and we put a chamfer on the tip of each bolt to key it into the resin further. But, we don't want a thief to be tempted so the ball bearings stop you getting an Allen key in there at all. (The anti-undo aspect _is_ very important when the anchor is fitted with shield anchors (i.e. expanding bolts) as they don't have the advantage of the bolts being bonded in position. Again, stopping a thief before he even starts is the best policy.)

The Torc anchor uses M10 socket countersunk fixing bolts. The hex socket (i.e. Allen key) size on these is 6mm AF, and the ball bearings we use are 1/4", so 6.35mm diameter. Hence, they need a good clout or two with e.g. a 4lb club hammer to get them in, permanently.

The ball bearings are hammered-in and are extremely tight. They are not intended to come out. Indeed, it is virtually imposible to get them out, so much so that it is often quicker to grind through the base plate of the anchor, across all 4 corners, to separate it from the bolts. That is also very time-consuming and it destroys the anchor in the process. If you want to remove the anchor and get back to a flat floor surface, you can do that by making repeated cuts with a grinder, e.g. after cutting the majority of the base plate away from the corners where the bolts are, with the disc angled at 45 degrees from vertical. You can gradually work your way in to a cut that goes through the shank of each of the bolts to release more of the metalwork. Then, you can finish off by grinding the short peg of the bolt that still protrudes above the floor. As you may guess, this is not a quick process! (We can supply a replacement base plate on its own, if you want to move the anchor somewhere else. We can supply fitting kits separately, too, so you could move from a concrete floor position to a brick wall, for instance.)

The dimensions of all our chains are on our web site: securityforbikes.com/security-chains.php#linkdimensions I hope that helps.

The resin fixings don't really pull the anchor down onto the floor. It should be close, for sure, as you wouldn't want a thief being able to get a lever under the base plate in an attempt to prise it up out of the floor, but it won't be massively tight. Providing it is close to the floor, without a significant gap, that is fine.

We've had a few people that have got a bit involved in the fitting process and forgotten to put the 'D' shackle in place before using the resin to fix the base plate to the floor. This is unfortunate, especially if you don't notice until the resin has set! A base plate fitted to the floor, without the 'D' shackle underneath it, isn't much use, I'm afraid. The separate 'D' shackle might make a nice door knocker ;-) Seriously, if anyone is in this situation and you notice quick enough, before the resin has set, try to lever the base plate away from the floor, quickly! We can supply replacement fixings so you can try again but if the base plate is already permanently fixed to the floor, we can't do much to help you use it. We can, however, supply another base plate separately, with more fixings, so you can re-use the 'D' shackle you've got 'spare' from the first attempt.

Glad you like it :-)

It's designed to be a permanent-fit ground anchor. You can preserve the anchor if you cut out a volume of concrete below, such as with a 'Kango' or similar impact drill, and then try to break the concrete away from the anchor. That makes a big hole in the floor and it is not easy to get the concrete off the bottom of the anchor, even when you've excavated the whole thing out of the floor.

We recommend different locks for different chains as a key priority is for the lock to be a close fit onto the chain as otherwise the lock will indeed be an obvious weakness and thus a likely target for a thief. The Package Deals we offer on our web site summarise many combinations that we recommend.

Kind of ;-) You can go up a level, or even more than one level, in situations where you've had a previous theft, or where items will be more exposed. ...We also now do a 22mm "Titan" chain - the biggest security chain in the world! That is particularly for situations where angle grinders might be involved. Nothing will completely stop an angle grinder, but we can try to make the battery go flat, as well as try to make it take so long that a thief gets disturbed or, even better, caught!

PragmasisSecurity Yes going up a level where possible, for sure. Have you got a video on this new chain, and does it include that new squire monster padlock that is also anti grinder to some degree?

We will be updating several of our videos in the near future, plus publishing several more as a lot has been happening. If you subscribe to our channel, you should hear about each new video as it gets published. Thanks for your interest.

Some Proper tests would be nice to see. And if done right will bring more views. I would advice on the following tests. Hacksaw/Bolt croppers/Portable grinder. Be honest and show what it takes to defeat the chains and locks you intend to supply via brute force.

That is a very tricky issue, and not because we've got anything to hide. Far from it, in fact, but because we don't want to teach thieves how to become better thieves. It's easy to get publicity via KZbin by doing that, and yes, many thieves know a lot, but most thieves can probably learn something and 'beginner' thieves can learn a lot from the sort of video we could do. E.g. if we do a video about attacks with grinders and a mediocre thief, that thinks he's really good with a grinder, finds out that actually he is not as fast as us, we motivate him to get better or to use a different technique. It might get us more views, but it could also result in a lot of people having stuff stolen. We think that is cheap publicity and that it is irresponsible. Even if we were only to teach one thief one thing then we would have done something bad that could result in many people having things stolen. For the same reason, we avoid pointing out bad technique on other people's videos, whether using a grinder, bolt croppers or hammers etc etc. We put our ethics above our profit and we use independent tests every year to give a comparison between our products and those from other manufacturers. We will publish comparative timings on angle grinder tests - actually some of the research we did when working on our 22mm 'Titan' chain - so people can see how different chains and different situations affect the time required. I.e. a percentage comparison across lots of tests. We will not publish any of the actual time figures, though.

We have a distributor in the States: Please visit www.Lockitt.com They hold stock and can ship much more cheaply than us sending something over the Pond :-)

The holes for resin fixings should normally be drilled to 95mm depth (not deeper). The concrete should ideally be something like 150mm (6") thick. Anything around 100mm thick, and certainly anything less, is likely to have the drill break through the bottom of the concrete and then you have a problem with the resin having a chance to ooze (technical term!) away into any voids below. The nominal "Brick Wall/Mediocre Concrete" fitting kit is potentially an alternative option, then, as the holes don't need to go so deep and that uses shield anchors (aka expanding bolts) to fit the anchor instead, and they don't need the bottom of the holes to be sealed. Another option can be to drill a larger diameter hole (16mm, compared with the normal 12mm diameter) and to fit resin sleeves, which we can supply separately. The sleeves are like plastic mesh cylinders. You then use injection resin from a cartridge and squirt the resin into the middle of the sleeve. The sleeve constrains the resin around where it is needed. I.e. the sleeve goes into a 16mm diameter hole and the resin goes into the sleeve, and the bolt goes down the middle. The other options are to cut out a section of the floor, dig down, and to fit the anchor as you lay fresh concrete, filling up the hole, or simply to find another position to fit the anchor. Any anchor can only be as good as the substrate where it is fitted, so it is usually a mistake to fit it to something that is thin or weak. (And apologies for such a slow reply.)