Hi. Yes it’s possible to use water injection as a substitute for an intercooler. Though bear in mind if you tune the car to depend on the extra knock suppression the water gives and for some reason the system fails, it could cause big issues. I would install the nozzle before the carb, directly after the compressor on the turbo, this will allow some time for atomisation. Which fitting the nozzle in the manifold would limit. You could also look at fitting the nozzle pre turbo, though there’s possible negatives to this, so it’s worth some consideration and research before going that route. Phil.

Thanks for the great comment & good luck with your cylinder head work.

You’re welcome. Thanks for watching and good luck with your project.

@@TurboMinicom Thanks mate 👍🏻

No problem!

Thank you!

I had planned to do one, just never found the time yet unfortunately. Thanks for watching this one though!

@@TurboMinicom do you have a flowbench one for any of your heads?

@@GPZ_Biker yes, there’s some flow bench testing of a 12G295 head in this video. kzbin.info/www/bejne/o3KWmnx9ZsmXibssi=Nw4gf6c6Y5o7F-8G

Brilliant. Thanks bud. I'll get a look. BTW. I love your interaction and replying. Best way to build a wee community

@@GPZ_Biker no problem. Thanks for your comments.

Great! Thanks for the subscription & glad you found the video useful.

Thanks for watching. They need to be sealed in to both the head and block. I personally use Loctite Multi gasket.

Sound advice.

There is an additional seal in the carb body under the dashpot on the turbo carbs. You could machine the required groove, which would allow you to use the additional seal, or seal the dashpot using some multi gasket or similar. Ensuring the face of the dashpot is machined perfectly flat would help here to.

@minmog thanks. 🤣

It sounds like the needle valve is the float chamber isn't seating properly causing it to overflow. Check there isn't dirt on the seat or the assembly isn't worn.

I’ve had it a long time. They sometimes come up for sale on eBay. Search for Van Norman, Wolf or Black & Decker valve grinding/refacing machine.

I don't use one. You'd also need a longer jet to take advantage of the extra fuel capacity.

Make sure the dashpot face is completely flat and use some Hylomar or similar to seal it. Though this becomes a bit of a pain if your having to remove the needle repeatedly to profile it. Alternatively machine the groove in the carb body if have access to a mill.

@@TurboMinicom thx for the advice. i will try it like thins then.

Thanks, I appreciate it.

It’s not something that’s necessary on a standard engine. Providing the cooling system is in good order it’ll be more than adequate.

Hi. Yes the head's are essentially the same, including valve sizes. Though the 850 heads had a slightly smaller chamber volume than the 998 castings.

Unfortunately not yet. I've done some more work on the install, but there's a lot of other work in progress on the car before it can get back on the road again.

Hi. You can retain the crank case breather. You’ll have adapt the take off/engine mount if you want to use the front bolt to retain it.

I've found carbs with and without them, but they're are useful as it stops the seals being pushed out under boost and rubbing against the springs. Probably not really an issue, but I've fitted thin metal washers in place before if the plastic ones weren't present.

Thank you very much. 😁

Thank you!

It’s not uncommon for bits to be missing. I’ve had quite a few over the years that have been incomplete unfortunately.

Yes & some lubrication of the guide bores in the head helps to.

Thank you for your kind comment. I’m really glad you like the channel and found the video useful it’s much appreciated. Regards. Phil.

Hi Paul. Remove the minimal amount of material required to just give the floor a good clean up, that’s all that’s required.

@@TurboMinicomwhat are your thoughts on filling up with epoxy the areas where there’s flow? Like the floor

@@andredesousa96 it can produce good results as it allows you to form a better short side radius & improve velocity in the main body of the port.

I would fill it with epoxy for sure in fact will be doing a 1275 head this year for my pick up. My approach will be fill the floor with epoxy and get it raised early in the port, nice tidy blend at the bowls good seat job and a really rough surface finish.

@@Johns51 yes, it works nicely!

Hi. Thanks for watching. Like engine dynos , flowbench figures can vary from one machine to another. What’s important is that the bench is repeatable and can provide useful comparative data for all my testing not necessarily comparing it to someone else’s figures. If that makes sense? Cheers. Phil.

Thanks Phil. Sounds like you’ve been involved in some interesting things in the past.

Thanks for your positive comment, much appreciated. Hope you’re finding the videos useful & good luck with your head work.

As a teaser, this was great. The 'opito?' tube was a real school day moment. Thanks. A full video or series on this would be great

@@GPZ_Biker yes the pitot tube is a very useful tool.

@@TurboMinicom got to love a Schoolday

Maybe on certain heads. But that’s not what I’ve found on A-series heads & I’ve done plenty of testing.

Everything else ive seen says the opposite. Thay it helps at low lift, especially just off the seat.

@@Piazzapower it does on certain heads and certain valve seat angles with certain short side shapes. We've seen on different heads what certain combos like with 30 degree backcuts and what certain combos don't like them. Its not a one cut fits all.

I've no idea what that means, but thanks for the comment anyway.

I bullet nose all my guides. The exhaust guide requires less taper than the inlet as there is more material left in the guide boss so less of the guide protrudes into the port.

Is that a HD motorbike?

Hi Phil. Have you watched this ? kzbin.info/www/bejne/b33TXmSIl8dnj9E It may answer your questions. If not, let me know. Cheers. Phil.

Thanks Mr H.

Far easier to grind it right out than work around it. There’s no real negatives to removing it completely and it’s quicker and easier when time is money.

Only that by shortening them you are reducing the sideways support to the valve stem as it is struck by the rocker so it will wear out quicker letting the valve rock more. Also on the exhaust side heat sink for the valve will be less of course.

@@philtucker1224 I don’t shorten the guide, they’re always left full length. It’s just the boss in the head that is ground down.

@@TurboMinicomif you grind down the boss, you are reducing the valve guide length

@@andredesousa96 as I mentioned above, I don’t shorten the guide. It’s the boss in the head casting that is ground away then new full length guides are installed.