how you got the digital cluster instead of the factory? I didn't find anyone to explain how to install it.

340000km on the same 4AFE engine 👍

Hey that happened to me so I stuck a rope down each sparkplug holes an rotation by hand an sprayed shit lols of wd40 on the top of the valves it worked still going today at 34000km👍

4afe called a"none interference" Even if timing belt failed valves aint gonna touch piston.. Today i drove my Toyota Corolla 1998, Suddenly loss of power and each time i push gas pedal the is a hard nocking I did check gaps ans stuff as you did here.. But nothing, everything is tite and fit. It mey be valve seats that must be gone.. Seems no any damage to connecting rods or pistons... Also that sound is in the speed of camshft.... Will see tomorrow....

Great engines

Your videos are good and really informative but please keep a steady camera

What’s the part number on that?

Any advice on reinstalling it?

how does the hook on the tensioner unhook itself when its in the engine?

Spun rod bearings for sure

How many miles did it have on it?

You could remove the exhaust manefault to get an impression of the exhaust valves?

Interesting to see Toyota still ground up the fuelpump eccentric (on the inlet cam end) though no hole in head for 4A-F version carb pump. tooSavvy @UK

I always recommend to replace rather than repairing. WHY: I removed my Timing Belt Tensioner form 1ZZFE, although there was no leak, and I noticed that the piston suddenly jumped out of the cylinder. What would have happened if it would have jumped out inside? Imagine and decide whether to repair or replace.

I had this exact engine. The oil consumption was unreal. A quart about every 500 miles. Funny that it did not smoke and never a drop of oil in the driveway. .I decided to rebuild the engine. It was an incredibly easy engine to work on. In fact it was a pleasure... The machine shop I used said he had worked with a lot of these engines. He said that Toyota used bad oil rings in these engines. They wouldn't admit it. But the problem started after around 40,000 miles. After the rebuild I put almost 110,000 miles on that engine without any issues. It did not consume any oil in between oil changes.

I had this problem with a 1978 Ford LTD 351w.. it had set up for 5 years, I bought the car rebuilt the carb, I put some gas and a battery in it.. after getting it running it wouldn't run after warming up, pushrods were getting bent, the old gas was varnishing the valves causing them to stick the pushrods would slipout from under the rocker arms and get bent in the process.. I was young at the time and didn't understand the concept of old gasoline, after this experience, I always drop the tank on vehicle that has been sitting and dump the old fuel and clean the tank, this LTD for instance needed a new tank.. it was rusted pretty bad inside.. and just about every vehicle with electric fuel pump in the tank, the fuel pump will be gummed up from the old gas, sometimes even the injectors. Anyways sitting up for years out in the elements is worse on a car than driving it and wearing it out.

Crank

Audio issue. Next time get a Rode direction mic or dead cat to muffle the wind noise. Still good interesting video pity i could not hear your commentary. Thanks.👍🏻

i think these valves stuck due to Rust moisture !! and you have 2 ways to fix this by only use the wd-40 spray only after disassemble the intake manifold and clean the bushes (INTAKE VALVE GUIDE) until its work again manually or the second way by rebuild the engine head

Alright I want to add my own personal story to this. It's chaos. I went in to my 7afe (96 corolla DX 1.8l) to replace an intake manifold gasket. It ran the day prior, I took it over 100 miles for work actually. So it took me a day, due to the wrong tools, but I tore the entire intake and fuel rail off. Putting it back together, injector #1 had a pinched o ring installed into the rail... I learned my lesson not using vasoline. So... idk if it contributes, but upon initial startup after putting it back together, injector 1 was a water fountain of fuel. Doubt much got into the combustion chamber. Anyways. Startup was awesome, 10 seconds later... a nauseating fuel smell and a loud knock at idle. Immediate shutoff and I inspect Loud af pop after shutting off. So tear it apart again. Replace the injector o ring. No more leaking fuel. That's weird. Sounds like no compression and won't start up. Like 10 minutes ago it did. Towed it to my dad's shop. He told me this exact same thing happened as the guy describing in this video. An absolute freakshow of an issue my dad said, never seen it before. My fix? We put the battery on the battery charger, and seriously cranked the motor for 15-20 minutes to build oil pressure in the lifters. It worked! I'm terrified it'll happen again. A rule of thumb, do oil changes often, and never mess with the viscosity of your oil. Too thick or too thin can replicate these problems on a car that never did it (sounds like a 4afe and 7afe issue lol.) And finally... factors I am trying to consider. I broke my PCV valve and tried to start it without a replacement on hand. I also have a bad EGR (p0401), of course that fuel leak, I just switched to synthetic oil (motor at 195k), and am hitting 6k on it. I never once took the valve cover off, I didn't touch anything beyond the intake, and stayed clear of where the manifold bolts up to the head. Maybe one day we will find the solution to a weird problem!

old gas, tarnished , Causes intake valves to stick open. Confirm this by smelling the gas in the tank. If it smells rank, problem confirmed.

Good video. Just wondering will timing chain jump gear or fell of spoke, after removing chain tensioner?

I really cant get it to compress

Hey brother did you ever figure out what the cause was? I'm have the same issue with a 1996 1.6 liter Toyota. Thanks for any help you can provide.

Dang sounds so loud it resembles a diesel

Very good

My my car has that same engine and one of the cylinder is not firing I already replaced the sparkplug and high tension wire and still won't fire

Thanks for the reassurance Mike. I'm gonna see if I can send some folks your way like Eric the Car Guy did for me on a Subaru video I did.

Que marca de aceite estas usando en toyota corolla 1992? ???? Me gusta!!! mantiene el motor limpio!!!

Someone forgot to add a quart of oil a week like those cars need

hey Mike I got a auto 2zz ge engine and I'm trying to figure out something about the fly wheel..there are two 4" plates that looks the same except that one has a lips and the next one is a bit thicker..which one connects to the crankshaft?

Very wrong on it being a non interferance valve engine.

The problem ended up being gummed up intake valve stems that were sticking in the valve guides. No amount of pre-teardown cleaning worked and this car ended up being a nightmare repair due to neglect. In hindsight, I don't know why I thought it dropped the valves, because the springs would have kept the lifters up. I should have thought/said it broke the springs. I did a head gasket and cleaned everything up and it works great at last check: www.toyotanation.com/forum/130-7th-generation-1993-1997/1261113-1991-corolla-4afe-no-compression-loose-intake-valve-lifters-advice-needed.html

that happen to my 96 corolla 7afe im replacing the whole head cuz it had stuck open valves mostlikely bent valves

how to set camshaft on Toyota conquest 1991 sport.

Did you ever find out what was causing the problem?

she got oil pressure?

Racket and Clank

can I replace the timing chain tensioner with out desambling the chain?

SO BOTH ENGINES USE THE SAME TENSIONER?

Also works for 2ZR-FE - please add to description

What happen when it wear off???

I am about to attempt the replacement of this o-ring and im curious, once the tensioner is reinserted into the motor does the clip that holds the tensioner in release? Is there any adjustments needed once this is put back into the motor? Thanks

I think I will just go head and just change the tensioner on my camry. don't want to spend 500+ on parts and labor to replace the kit. thanks for the tip on the forum.

How do you get it out of the block? My belt tensioner bracket is blocking it.

Thanks you very much.