1991 Corolla 4AFE No Compression Loose Int. Valves

This car was running fine and had a dead battery. After charging the battery and cranking, the engine made a pop and wouldn't start. After inspecting it, I immediately could tell it had no compression. After removing the valve cover, I observed the intake valve lifters to be completely loose in their bores.
Looking for advice on what it needs.

[@hardtopte72]

The problem ended up being gummed up intake valve stems that were sticking in the valve guides. No amount of pre-teardown cleaning worked and this car ended up being a nightmare repair due to neglect. In hindsight, I don't know why I thought it dropped the valves, because the springs would have kept the lifters up. I should have thought/said it broke the springs. I did a head gasket and cleaned everything up and it works great at last check: www.toyotanation.com/forum/130-7th-generation-1993-1997/1261113-1991-corolla-4afe-no-compression-loose-intake-valve-lifters-advice-needed.html

[@michaelrepman9909]

Alright I want to add my own personal story to this. It's chaos. I went in to my 7afe (96 corolla DX 1.8l) to replace an intake manifold gasket. It ran the day prior, I took it over 100 miles for work actually. So it took me a day, due to the wrong tools, but I tore the entire intake and fuel rail off. Putting it back together, injector #1 had a pinched o ring installed into the rail... I learned my lesson not using vasoline. So... idk if it contributes, but upon initial startup after putting it back together, injector 1 was a water fountain of fuel. Doubt much got into the combustion chamber. Anyways. Startup was awesome, 10 seconds later... a nauseating fuel smell and a loud knock at idle. Immediate shutoff and I inspect Loud af pop after shutting off. So tear it apart again. Replace the injector o ring. No more leaking fuel. That's weird. Sounds like no compression and won't start up. Like 10 minutes ago it did. Towed it to my dad's shop. He told me this exact same thing happened as the guy describing in this video. An absolute freakshow of an issue my dad said, never seen it before. My fix? We put the battery on the battery charger, and seriously cranked the motor for 15-20 minutes to build oil pressure in the lifters. It worked! I'm terrified it'll happen again. A rule of thumb, do oil changes often, and never mess with the viscosity of your oil. Too thick or too thin can replicate these problems on a car that never did it (sounds like a 4afe and 7afe issue lol.) And finally... factors I am trying to consider. I broke my PCV valve and tried to start it without a replacement on hand. I also have a bad EGR (p0401), of course that fuel leak, I just switched to synthetic oil (motor at 195k), and am hitting 6k on it. I never once took the valve cover off, I didn't touch anything beyond the intake, and stayed clear of where the manifold bolts up to the head. Maybe one day we will find the solution to a weird problem!

[@dunewell2173]

hey dude thanks for sharing as I have learned something new but my question is was the valve issue solved by seriously cranking the engine several times?

[@dawaneropateni3887]

340000km on the same 4AFE engine 👍

[@NIP28]

Your videos are good and really informative but please keep a steady camera

[@voiceofistanbul720]

Very good

[@johnfloyd2551]

I had this problem with a 1978 Ford LTD 351w.. it had set up for 5 years, I bought the car rebuilt the carb, I put some gas and a battery in it.. after getting it running it wouldn't run after warming up, pushrods were getting bent, the old gas was varnishing the valves causing them to stick the pushrods would slipout from under the rocker arms and get bent in the process.. I was young at the time and didn't understand the concept of old gasoline, after this experience, I always drop the tank on vehicle that has been sitting and dump the old fuel and clean the tank, this LTD for instance needed a new tank.. it was rusted pretty bad inside.. and just about every vehicle with electric fuel pump in the tank, the fuel pump will be gummed up from the old gas, sometimes even the injectors. Anyways sitting up for years out in the elements is worse on a car than driving it and wearing it out.

[@dawaneropateni3887]

Hey that happened to me so I stuck a rope down each sparkplug holes an rotation by hand an sprayed shit lols of wd40 on the top of the valves it worked still going today at 34000km👍

[@toosavvy3504]

Interesting to see Toyota still ground up the fuelpump eccentric (on the inlet cam end) though no hole in head for 4A-F version carb pump. tooSavvy @UK

[@ericalbertoperez]

that happen to my 96 corolla 7afe im replacing the whole head cuz it had stuck open valves mostlikely bent valves

[@kelvinfigueroa1984]

Que marca de aceite estas usando en toyota corolla 1992? ???? Me gusta!!! mantiene el motor limpio!!!

[@donalbershardt9290]

Marca de Aceite es no muy Importante.. PERO NO Uso la Mas BARATO 👌

[@thabombiza2331]

how to set camshaft on Toyota conquest 1991 sport.

[@asafgl4281]

4afe called a"none interference" Even if timing belt failed valves aint gonna touch piston.. Today i drove my Toyota Corolla 1998, Suddenly loss of power and each time i push gas pedal the is a hard nocking I did check gaps ans stuff as you did here.. But nothing, everything is tite and fit. It mey be valve seats that must be gone.. Seems no any damage to connecting rods or pistons... Also that sound is in the speed of camshft.... Will see tomorrow....

[@jimmyzelski7742]

Did you ever find out what was causing the problem?

[@therealspixycat]

You could remove the exhaust manefault to get an impression of the exhaust valves?

[@hardtopte72]

The problem was in the intake valves, not exhaust.

[@theothistledon6935]

Audio issue. Next time get a Rode direction mic or dead cat to muffle the wind noise. Still good interesting video pity i could not hear your commentary. Thanks.👍🏻

[@mulliedog1]

Hey brother did you ever figure out what the cause was? I'm have the same issue with a 1996 1.6 liter Toyota. Thanks for any help you can provide.

[@hardtopte72]

mulliedog1 The problem ended up being gummed up intake valve stems that were sticking in the valve guides. No amount of pre-teardown cleaning worked and this car ended up being a nightmare repair due to neglect. In hindsight, I don't know why I thought it dropped the valves, because the springs would have kept the lifters up. I should have thought/said it broke the springs. I did a head gasket and cleaned everything up and it works great at last check: www.toyotanation.com/forum/130-7th-generation-1993-1997/1261113-1991-corolla-4afe-no-compression-loose-intake-valve-lifters-advice-needed.html

[@mulliedog1]

Thank you for a quick response back to me! I'm going to try the pre-teardown cleaning routine and see if it works. The good thing is this one hasn't been neglected. Thanks again! I really appreciate it!

[@hardtopte72]

Glad to help!

[@tibbsontour1946]

she got oil pressure?

[@ahmeddhiaa3046]

i think these valves stuck due to Rust moisture !! and you have 2 ways to fix this by only use the wd-40 spray only after disassemble the intake manifold and clean the bushes (INTAKE VALVE GUIDE) until its work again manually or the second way by rebuild the engine head

[@stoicspawn3936]

How many miles did it have on it?

[@hardtopte72]

It was a ton. Over 150K with it sitting for years as a spare vehicle.

[@aceofhearts6637]

old gas, tarnished , Causes intake valves to stick open. Confirm this by smelling the gas in the tank. If it smells rank, problem confirmed.

[@toyotaprius2177]

My my car has that same engine and one of the cylinder is not firing I already replaced the sparkplug and high tension wire and still won't fire

[@buckrogers6616]

I have the same problem 1990 Toyota Celica 1.6L ST

[@specialtyneed]

Very wrong on it being a non interferance valve engine.

[@hardtopte72]

Shaun Collins That's not true. The 4AFE is 100% non interference. These valves were stuck completely open and no contact with the positions occurred, even After several attempts to crank the engine.

[@specialtyneed]

Interference valve timing is an engineering defined number of degrees of valve overlap. No wether or not your engine problem managed to crash valves into pistons.

[@hardtopte72]

Shaun Collins I disagree with your definition. An interference engine is defined as, "...a type of 4-stroke internal combustion piston engine in which one or more valves in the fully open position extends into any area that the piston may travel into. By contrast, in a non-interference engine the piston does not travel into any area into which the valves open." Some of the valves on this engine were fully extended into open position and no contact with the pistons occurred even after repeated cranking. By definition, this engine is non interference. In contrast, my father in law had a timing belt tensioner break on his Honda Pilot, which caused the belt to loosen completely and stopped camshaft rotation. After repeated cranking, severe damage to the valves and pistons in the cylinders with extended valves resulted. By definition, that Honda Pilot engine is interference.