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@Batlahalliprashanthreddy 2 ай бұрын
What is this pollen substitute?
@aaronparis4714 2 ай бұрын
When I pull my honey I start OA right after I do it every 5 days until December faithfully and I have very low mites I’m in Canada
@bogtv2477 3 ай бұрын
It’s my first year and Im about to treat with oav. i know it is pre set to 400. seems like I should drop it to 380 and go from there. bob binnie says he does 4g per brood box. I might just do what you do and go for 3 instead.
@daviddillow2113 3 ай бұрын
What are you saying the outside ambient temperature must be for the vaporization process to be done correctly?
@daviddillow2113 3 ай бұрын
There are vaporizers on the market that have a max heating pad temp of 230 degrees. Where does that fall in your research since you mention that the correct temp for actual vaporization versus aerosolizing is 324 to 375? What is happening at 220 to 230?
@richardwalcott8332 4 ай бұрын
I appreciate you sharing your video. Let us know how it goes in 2024 please. I'm in Florida always 92 degrees here.😁
@Ooo-vz3jd 7 ай бұрын
I can't understand what you say in the beginning. You kill the queen and remove her or do you leave the dead queen near the new queen that's in the cage?
@thenewbeejournal 7 ай бұрын
You smear the old queen against the cage of the new queen, brutal technique, the idea is that the old queens hormones fade while the new queens hormones take hold, first and last time I did it.
@Ooo-vz3jd 7 ай бұрын
@@thenewbeejournal it seems to be an effective technique for queen replacement.
@Chuckolicious 8 ай бұрын
Apologies, but I'm a bit confused by this. Are you saying that for it to be effective, it needs to be fully gasified so the mites breathe it in? If so, that seems to go totally against what I thought was the established science/protocol. How would oxalic strips and dribble be effective then?
@Stoneynz 9 ай бұрын
Mate, Your plan does not sound very good to me at all. All it will take to completely fail is for a hive somewhere within range of your hives to be badly infested with varroa and weak and/or dieing out and your bees will transfer the varroa back to your hives . You would be better to do regular treatments and closely monitor your hives. I have alot of hive sites away from all other hives and what you are doing would work, But I also have some hive sites in areas that other beekeeping outfits have hives , and those hives of mine are constantly year after year getting reinfested with varroa and it is unavoidable. My advice is only try your plan if no other beekeepers have hives within range of your hives. Good luck,,,,Clint from New Zealand
@thenewbeejournal 9 ай бұрын
Hello Clint, thanks for writing, what you’re describing is the natural situation in most places, your scenario will definitely affect a couple of hives, keep in mind that it is not likely that not only one hive will rob a weakening colony or dead out, the infestation would most definitely be spread and not focused.on one hive. The treatment, any treatment for that matter, would never be 100% effective in removing the mites, nor would it prevent any mite from coming in the future after the treatment is done. The treatment, its delivery and timing is focused on doing it properly and in the proper time, to kill as many mites while they are still phoretic and bring the population down before exponentially multiplying in the season already identified that they do. Mites are here to stay, no way around it, it is a matter of developing a treatment regiment that gives the best chance to the bees and hinders varroa’s proliferation as much as possible, this with the help of selecting for more tolerant and resistant genetics. We do keep bees in several different locations, but this must be able to work wherever you are.
@greenmanjph 9 ай бұрын
I thought this feeder would be a good alternative to my bucket feeder, but I was wrong. In all 4 corners and middle I found drowned bees (I have all the clear pieces installed correctly). It wasn't a lot of dead bees, maybe around 8 - 10 in each spot, but when you keep finding more dead ones every few days, the numbers add up. After a few feedings and drowned bee removal, I had enough, and removed the top feeder and put my old bucket feeder back on. I will never use it again. I complained to the manufacturer directly through their website, but never received a reply.
@thenewbeejournal 9 ай бұрын
The little pieces of sponge do help, but we do not recommend this feeder. There is a much better top feeder with zero dead bees, and we two chambers to facilitate smaller amounts of feeding.
@theunlikelybeek 9 ай бұрын
Great information. Nice to see a beek take the responsibility & steps to do right by the bees
@gallowaylights 10 ай бұрын
Mutts are free! 😂
@thenewbeejournal 10 ай бұрын
Yes they are, here in the south they can come with a hot surprise!
@gallowaylights 10 ай бұрын
@@thenewbeejournal o my!😬
@MinnesotaBeekeeper 10 ай бұрын
Plus it looks like you are in a dearth. I had a lying sack of shit sell me 8 nucs claiming they were Carnis. Nope, Italians and they ate that years profits. Big ouch! For that same reason we don't see them over winter here with much sucess.
@tywilson64 10 ай бұрын
Im using just saskatraz and carniolan
@thenewbeejournal 10 ай бұрын
I tried 2 Saskatraz queens last year. They didn't survive the varroa load I placed on them to check them out. I'll try again from another breeder. Carnies and Russians are my favorites. Although I have some awesome Caucasians.
@tywilson64 10 ай бұрын
Wow!!😮
@dinobernardi170 10 ай бұрын
Interesting, very good job well explained. Thank you...good luck!!
@damainkerek810 10 ай бұрын
Great video!
@MikeChamplin 10 ай бұрын
Why are you waiting 2 years before treating again? Seems like you'd have success treating each July/August during the local dearth period?
@thenewbeejournal 10 ай бұрын
I’m selecting for tolerance on my breeding program. If indeed I am, then my bees should withstand the virus loads transmitted by varroa without the colony collapsing. It was a harsh test, but allowed me to select the colonies that even with high number of varroa, kept growing and adding boxes. I’m not treatment free nor I aspire to be it, I don’t want to keep colonies with high levels of virulence ( which is the test) and affect beekeepers and feral colonies alike; but instead, I want genetics that can take advantage of one proper treatment to get a boost and keep doing what their doing, and continue develop tolerance naturally.
@catherinmus9364 11 ай бұрын
Hoe can you tell that's the queen bee they all look the same to me and what you mean then there all your aren't you afraid of being stung by that bee ill be terrified
@Swarmstead 11 ай бұрын
Swarms all over the place. 😁
@nataliegist2014 11 ай бұрын
Love bees
@brendawydeven2934 11 ай бұрын
I also have lorrobees vaporizer. Did you change the temperature on it. If so, to what?
@thenewbeejournal 11 ай бұрын
I set it up at 380F
@brendawydeven2934 11 ай бұрын
@@thenewbeejournal wow. Mine us set to way lower. Thanks.
@thenewbeejournal 11 ай бұрын
@@brendawydeven2934 sublimation happens between 324F and 375F. If it is setup lower than 375F it will take more time.
@brendawydeven2934 11 ай бұрын
@@thenewbeejournal thank you
@jamieeiv 10 ай бұрын
I just got my vaporizer from them and it was set at 450? Seems like I should lower it?
@heavymechanic2 11 ай бұрын
My schedule starts in August after a honey pull when there are some cool mornings to drop the growing mite populations. I try to treat once a month going forward, and 2-3 treatments around Thanksgiving after the brood is gone. I'm in a colder area and overwintering has been a success using good practices.. Backyard bees are more of a threat because they don't treat, the reason for a prophylactic treatment through late summer.
@thenewbeejournal 11 ай бұрын
Thanks for sharing. What do you use for trearment?
@heavymechanic2 11 ай бұрын
@@thenewbeejournalI use OAV and just purchased a Pro-Vap because the wand was inconsistent with the temp.
@bjggogoman4095 11 ай бұрын
Great video that’s loaded with worthwhile information. I’m going to give it a try.
@Fatschwab 11 ай бұрын
Really interesting information- good luck with your 2024 test. I think you’re on to something. Let us know how you make out.
@SouthFlaBeekeepingAndMangoes 11 ай бұрын
Fantastic Vid! Which vaporizer are you using? Assuming you get the timing and temperature correct, how many treatments will you give? I understand why you applied every four days but I'm not clear about what you mean by 7 repetitions. Did you apply seven times on each of the four days? If yes, How long between each application? In the future are you only applying once with no repetitions and not every four days? Sorry for all the questions. I will re watch the vid. Thanks again for posting.
@thenewbeejournal 11 ай бұрын
I use the Lorobbees vaporizer, great unit, and even better customer service. For the treatment, once you start and give the first treatment, come back for the next treatment 4 days later, stop once the colony has received 7 treatments. This way, every bee in the colony has received the treatment at least once.
@SouthFlaBeekeepingAndMangoes 11 ай бұрын
@@thenewbeejournal got it. Thanks.
@Imkerei2024 11 ай бұрын
What temp are you using on pro vap ?
@thenewbeejournal 11 ай бұрын
We set our vaporizers at 380F
@Swarmstead 11 ай бұрын
Even though I never treat, it's interesting to see you guys try to figure this stuff out.
@aaronparis4714 2 ай бұрын
You must lose a shit load of bees
@Swarmstead 2 ай бұрын
@aaronparis4714 😆 your goofball ass is trolling me here too?
@aaronparis4714 2 ай бұрын
@@Swarmstead yes any dummy that is not treating should not be able to have bees.any dummy that would even comment on a this video like why are you even watching this you must be having mite issues why would a none treater watch videos on treating mites when they don’t treat this should not even be a topic you comment on your not a beekeeper your a mite keeper that’s not trolling that’s facts
@aaronparis4714 2 ай бұрын
@ raise them mites 😂
@Swarmstead 2 ай бұрын
@@aaronparis4714 typical treater.
@NKYHoneyBees 11 ай бұрын
Great stuff. It always takes some time to master videos haha Always too long when I do it. I don't understand what the preferred temperature is? 324 to 375? What is ideal?
@thenewbeejournal 11 ай бұрын
😅 Tell me about it, trying to keep them short is difficult. Temperature is the key to the whole thing. Oxalic acid sublimation begins at 324F and it ends at 375F, if there is anything left when temp increases,it will be burned. Environmental and hive temperature will determined how soon the oxalic gas becomes solid again.
@NKYHoneyBees 11 ай бұрын
@@thenewbeejournal Thank you. I have a vaporizer and it's set to 444, but the idea is when OA hits the metal it cools to the right temp. Hard to determine these things.
@thenewbeejournal 11 ай бұрын
@@NKYHoneyBeesIf you have noticed, when OA touches the metal, it drops about 80-100 degrees, then a few seconds later it reaches 324F and begins sublimating. The oxalic that physically touch the metal at 444F it’s immediately burned, and whatever is left sublimates. After a couple of treatments you will notice residual of oxalic acid burned in the metal cup, that is burned material that never sublimated because of excess heat, you shake it and continue.
@NKYHoneyBees 11 ай бұрын
@@thenewbeejournal es, this makes total sense. Thank you for the details. I am trying to understand the best way to treat these mites. Looking forward to your experiments. Thank you
@MrJim5280 11 ай бұрын
Nice presentation! What part of the state are you in? I’m near Victoria TX.
@thenewbeejournal 11 ай бұрын
We have yards on different towns west of Houston.
@DNADirekt 11 ай бұрын
Timing and temperature! Ok, I will watch that. Thanks for that excelent hint mate!! What I have worked out is to do it when it is dark. Then all bees are at home and I get them all.
@BUTTEWORKS Жыл бұрын
I made the mistake to install feeders on 5 gal buckets in the open field and that brought a ton of robbers to my apiary. Lost three hives.
@BUTTEWORKS Жыл бұрын
Thank a lot for the video and sharing your experience. Very interesting and educational. Also very well explained.
@MinnesotaBeekeeper Жыл бұрын
Nice research. Where did you see the mites breathing in the OA? The foot pad absorption is still the common though. Interesting. Did you happen to see the Fred Dunn interview with Janos Fenyosy?
@thenewbeejournal Жыл бұрын
I wish I have a microscope that powerful, It would be fascinating to see it in action, I would ask some researchers to see if they have it or can make it happen. I haven't seen the interview, it is now in my warch list. Thank you for recommending it. I'm hesitant to use AOE, I've read that it can be hard for the bees unlike OAV. My reason may be personal in that matter. I had cancer three times and I had to swallow radioactive medicine, it messed me up for life, and have to live with the effects, so giving the girls that to eat knowing that may affect them, prevents me from doing it.
@MinnesotaBeekeeper Жыл бұрын
@@thenewbeejournal oh man sorry to hear about the cancer! We were discussing with Brad, that be man at Faith apiaries, about how the mites heart slows down after exposure to OA. Typically if a critter has lung damage they start breathing more rapidly. If you find anything to the contrary please let us know!
@thenewbeejournal Жыл бұрын
@@MinnesotaBeekeeper I will inquire about all that for sure, it is very interesting. Do we know the source of the study about the mite’s heart? Very deep into the physiology of the mite, I have to read it.
@MinnesotaBeekeeper Жыл бұрын
@@thenewbeejournal Sorry. Mr. Brad Hoog was the President of the Manitoba Beekeepers asso. We talk to him about every Friday on Sawmill Charlie's live bee chat. Often Ian Steppler stops in.
@LynneBrazosRiverHoney Жыл бұрын
So many devices made for sublimating oxalic acid have no temperature control. There's no way to know what temperature the device is operating at. And don't even get me started on the folks using propane insect foggers!
@thenewbeejournal Жыл бұрын
Even the ones with temperature control. I asked them why did they set the temperature at 400F and they couldn't answer other than it was the standard. As per the DIY, it is a futile discussion, most believe that the visible cloud is the treatment, which is completely wrong.
@DNADirekt 11 ай бұрын
@@thenewbeejournal They say that the Varrox Eddy has an automatic temperature control. That is what they say! But you just can put 1 gr. into the EDDY.
@thenewbeejournal 11 ай бұрын
@DNADirekt thanks dor the comment. I would have to read more about it, Mannlake's video doesn't mention the specifics about temperature. Like I said, some manufacturers don't even know the range, just set at 400F. It seems like a nice product compared to wands, it will still kill some bees, and you still need to be careful with the "wax ladders" bees build to climb the frames, as wax and honey are flammable. I'm not a fun of proprietary technology, meaning the battery is specific, and the product is already $500. It certainly is a convenient option for someone with less than 10 hives. Still recommend the use of a reapirator.
@MinnesotaBeekeeper Жыл бұрын
Morning brother, I'm excited to watch this have to run out the door.
@thenewbeejournal Жыл бұрын
It has been a minute. It is good to see you here, I hope you like it and try it.
@inharmonywithearth9982 Жыл бұрын
Can you tell us more on your observations of your caucasian bees?
@norbertniggemann5949 Жыл бұрын
What state are you in and how do you make the soft patty
@martinlahaise5554 Жыл бұрын
The Center feeding entrance is above the level of the sides. Putting only the top cover on will cause a space on one of the sides where bees can enter, and they will. An inner cover must be placed on top of the feeder before the top cover is put on.
@Ooo-vz3jd Жыл бұрын
Thanks for your replies. I wish you lived near me or someone competent that would visit and help me setup my hives for winter. I have 9, in Rochester Hills, Michigan. I would pay someone for gas and time.
@Ooo-vz3jd Жыл бұрын
This hive is only 1 deep?
@thenewbeejournal Жыл бұрын
Yes, only one box. But the population is strong, and the redundant top insulation will help them to keep the heat without eating too much resources. I only had to feed them twice that winter. Two sugar bricks from December-February. Also helps that they are Carniolans so they shut /slow down brood during winter, unlike Italians or Italian mutts
@Ooo-vz3jd Жыл бұрын
How do you make the soft sugar bricks and ingredients?
@thenewbeejournal Жыл бұрын
Sugae, water that was infused with chamomile and apple cider vinegar and a small cup of pollen. I place it in the oven for a couple of hours to dehydrate the brick. I don’t bake it to a solid brick, I don’t want HMFs forming on it.
@ГулзарКарыбекова-ь1м Жыл бұрын
🇰🇬🇰🇬🇰🇬🇰🇬🇰🇬👍👍👍👍👍👍
@MinnesotaBeekeeper Жыл бұрын
Longer days and warmer weather, rumors of spring coming, somewhere lol.
@thenewbeejournal Жыл бұрын
It is on Mike. We'll be grafting this week, and have mated queen ready in less than a month.
@ВалентинМарев-э6ю Жыл бұрын
is it mainly used against fermentation or also against Varroa
@thenewbeejournal Жыл бұрын
This dosage and prepararion is to prevent fermentation on the syrup. Nothing to do with varroa, although Thymol is know as one of the medicating plants to honeybees. Apiguard is a Thymol based miticide against varroa, completely different.
@ВалентинМарев-э6ю Жыл бұрын
How many ml of sugar syrup with thymol is given to a family, at what time of development and interferes with the honey collection
@thenewbeejournal Жыл бұрын
Remember, Thymol is an additive to prevent early fermentation, without sweet smells during dearth periods to avoid robbing. The recommended dosage is 2ml, but I found it a bit too strong so I use 1ml per gallon. It will start fermenting after a week on warm weather so feed whatever amount of syrup they eat in 3-5 days Important: if you are promoting growth or wax building 1:1 with NO thymol is better as they will eat it fast, only sugar and apple cider vinager to correct the PH. I do not recommend feeding sugar syrup while there is nectar in the environment.
@MinnesotaBeekeeper Жыл бұрын
Good post. Great book gift!
@MinnesotaBeekeeper Жыл бұрын
Nice to see.
@Marlahanna 2 жыл бұрын
What is the insulation board that you put on top of the cover? I think you called it a moisture board. Your bees love you!
@thenewbeejournal 2 жыл бұрын
I do spoil my girls. I treat them with love and respect, I love to feel them and hate wearing gloves. I'm using two things, the moisture board and on top a "2 insulation board, the moisture board is a Homasote board, used in construction as a sound barrier, twice the insulating rating of wood and made of cellulose to absorb moisture. There is the original which I prefer: www.homasote.com/wheretobuy and Lowes also has it but theirs has something like a tar layer to make it weather proof meaning they only use it for sound proofing and it about half the price, if I buy the one from Lowes I removed the tar film on top so it can absorb the moisture, they seem to tolarate the tar smell better than me. www.lowes.com/pd/Common-0-5-in-x-4-ft-x-8-ft-Actual-0-5-in-x-4-ft-x-8-ft-1-R-1-5-Faced-Fiberboard-Foam-Board-Insulation-with-Sound-Barrier/1000318607 Homasote for sure will be the best option. I can make 15 boards for $50 + $20 on any woodshop for cutting ($4.66 each total) the price on a bee store ia around $12 each.
@texasfriendlybeekeepers8210 2 жыл бұрын
Condensation occurs when the dew point is reached. The air inside the hive is heated and when it comes in contact with a cooler surface, the moisture contained in the air changes from vapor to liquid - moisture droplets. While this can be bad accumulating in a have bottom where it cannot drain out, it’s also beneficial moisture bees can use in their never ending work. The concerns for venting are similar to wax moths. If you have a wax moth problem, they are the result not the cause. A hive set up to drain will not have a moisture problem, a healthy colony will manage the thermal dynamics inside the hive to include moisture - even in cluster, no different that a swarm in transition on a day when it rains. Water rolls off that swarm like water off a duck. A hive angled to drain or equipped with base drainage will be fine if they are healthy, have adequate numbers and accessible food needed to sustain the cluster. Bees only need one opening. From that opening they will create bidirectional air currents to accomplish their management goals. Everything we do is a conflict with what bees prefer. We must remember they do NOT need us, we need them. Keeping bees is assisting in their needs and not being a burden unless we are pursuing our goals of honey and splits. D.F.
@mauriciocarmona5113 2 жыл бұрын
There are a couple of things off with your comments. , First, the dew point is the result of temperature and WATER VAPOR saturation pressure and it changes according to those variables, not a set point. What he is talking about is the use of insulated hives, meaning that if the inside cavity is insulated there won't be condensation as there is no cold air. What you said applies to wooden hives, which is the point he is making, in insulated hives the bees have full control of temperature and humidity, by choice. So if your talking about 3/4" wooden hives, yes, you should have tilt the hive since instalation, and water accumulating in the bottom will make the saturation worse, not benefit the bees. Second, "concern for venting are similar to wax moths, they are the result not the cause" the comment doesn't make any sense, how even compare.You didn't understand the need nor the use of ventilation he explained; you mostly understood the physics of the dew point in wood hives but missed completely hot air displacement in the same conditions.
@thenewbeejournal 2 жыл бұрын
Hello Stan Gore, I know you are an avid proponent of insulated hives, and have been making the transition with all your hives. Congrats. The "hot air ballon" effect that benefits the bees during winter, does the opposite during summer; bees have to bring hottest air down to the entrance, against the physics of hot air which rises, we circle back to the high metabolic cost of bees, the main issue we are talking in the video, plus the consequences of rearing brood at the wrong temperatures. Instead, if you vent through the top, that hot air that is rising will escape the hive with almost no effort from the bees, furthermore, because the ventilation shim is a bigger escape than the entrance of the hive, the hot air pressure escaping is creating a suction of air entering the hive at fast speed, again, air displacement is making the ventilation for the girls, they'll just tweak it with water vapor, direct it and move into heat loss control by controling the size of the vents with propolis if the deem it excessive, an insulated top will benefit them even more.
@texasfriendlybeekeepers8210 2 жыл бұрын
@@thenewbeejournal I dont vent in winter for a reason. The same reason a tree doesnt vent. Bees are masters ventilation experts.
@thenewbeejournal 2 жыл бұрын
@@texasfriendlybeekeepers8210 correct, there shouldn't be any ventilation on winter, that's what I said on the video a few times and in the comment above when talking above the hot air ballon. At no point ever have I mentioned ventilating on winter, I've been talking about insulation, why vent an insulated space? The ventilation is for summer in 3/4" wood hives as they are not on a tree.