Please post part 2 of this video. I have to change mine this weekend. Awesome job on the part 1. Thank you

why do you always lie?

This job looks like a nightmare

Where was part 2?

Where’s the part 2 video ?

Where’s part two? lol

Brokering bold

I really enjoy your videos. They are very informative. I also appreciate how well organized your shop is. I have a little tip for you and all of your viewers. You were spot on doing a leak test on the seating of your valves. Even if a shop does your heads, you should check the sealing of the valves (I've been burned by a machine shop with an excellent reputation). Instead of using a spray carb cleaner, I poured a couple ounces of fuel system cleaner into each of the ports. You just want to make sure that the head is positioned so that the entire circumference of each valve is totally submerged in fluid. I would leave it overnight. If your valves are nice and sealed there should be no trace of fluid in the combustion chamber. If there is, just regrind. It's never good if you have any leakage at the valves because you will have a pressurized force working against the natural intake aspiration of the engine choking out your potential power.

Man, this is excellent! Very thorough in depth videos! As someone about to tackle an MGA restoration, knowing these exist is peace of mind through support. Subbed and liked all. Thank you!

Part 2?

Good video wish you would done part 2 but keep up with the hard work 👍🔥

Hello . Great job with the MGA How can I contact you ? Do you have an email adders ? I have few questions about a 57 MGA 1500 that I'm rebuilding .

Mine did the same thing take the reservoir cap off the drain plug will immediately flow freely.

I deleted my oil cooler too now that y pipe feeds the heater core and lower intake

Had to sawzall the fan clutch off as advance Auto tool rental sucks ass i bought a new severe duty fan clutch anyway

Had a water pump installed because I had a leak from a broken seal (my 2002 f150 has 316K miles. I figured to replace the water pump even though it's the seal that is broken only. I have been driving it for a month with a leak and I just add a gallon of water in the morning and all good to go until the next day. In the process the mechanic damaged the radiator, transmission line. Told him and the shop owner that all those were ok when I drove in. I replaced them as well. The next day i drive out and not less than 2 miles on the highway vehicle breaks down. I attempted to drive back to the mechanic about 4 miles away but one mile from where i died I could not start any longer. Had to get it towed. When I got back to the shop the mechanic realizes and I wish I checked but he barely reconnected the battery cable. Again, I test drive it, it was still running rough and again 2 miles away it overheats on the highway. After letting it cool down, I bring it back and without telling me he removed the thermostat that I installed 2 months ago. So, I guess it is not overheating anymore but still driving rough, so he said my ignition coil and sparkplugs were bad. Luckily, I still had a warranty on the ignition coil since I replaced it 2 months ago with thermostat, fuel injectors, sparkplugs and cables. After all that he now says my crankshaft pully is broken, it was sliding back and forth. I don't know if he damaged this maybe not, but he has gone under the vehicle in this area especially after he broke the transmission line. Now, I think I am going to find another mechanic shop. I have been going back and fort to this shop for 3 days and even though the truck is not overheating any longer, it now doesn't have a thermostat and it is running rough and has slow acceleration compared to how it was running smooth and strong before i brought it in.

Great tutorial

That htr outlet pipe is a pain in the butt I just deal with while changing the thermostat

Great detail thanks

13:04 I'm having serious issues with this bolt and don't have access to a gear puller. Think I can wiggle the pump out without taking this bolt off?

What are the make and size of the tires?

You may want to look into replacing the timing cover gaskets as well. The water pump on Fords bolts to the timing cover, which serves as an adaptor plate to the block. In short, it carries the water from the pump into the block. It uses a similar gasket as the water pump but on the back side: timing cover to engine block. This one fails with time, and will dump coolant into your crankcase. Make a mess too.

Hello. Awesome video my friend. I have a 2001 f150 v6 . Can you recommend where to buy a good water pump please. Thank you. Be well.

Removing the power steering pump pulley is a waste of time, you can move the bracket out of the way without taking the bolt behind pulley completely out

To those of you watching, it's a much better plan to clean the interior of the tank before ever touching the outside. Small but important point, but on the whole he's doing better than most.

Very detailed video great job.

Thank you so much for making this video brother. 🫡👍🏿

You should only use impact sockets with a impact gun. They have more mass which helps loosen them and they wont shatter.

Just changed mine on my '01 4.2l, you don't have to pull the pulley off the power steering pump, just loosen the 4 mounting bolts 12mm, thread them almost all the way but leave a few threads to hold and slide it back, the water pump bracket bolt can clear easily..

Working on a slightly newer one of these now. A new water pump put in not that long ago to chase a squeaking issue is itself now squeaking. I've owned mine since new and its nowhere near as crusty looking (only 80k on it). I was glad you got those long bracket bolts out w/o snapping them off. It seems like they built everything around the pump on this engine.

Thanks for this video. It was very usefull. My f150 4.2 2001 it's about 280.000 milles. This is my first time doing this kind of work. Today i going to install the pump. You help me a lot. I hope that my english was fine.

Thank you so much! After this video I made the choice to change the car , not the water pump only. This engine (4.2l) is the disgrace to the American auto industry...

Thanks for your great job of instructing. Made the job a lot more simple and easier for me. Have a great day.

Great job man. Do a corvair next.

thank you for the update. ...life goes on, right? :)

Wow, serpentine belt was shredding and I realized my water pump was loose. DIYing it but could not find a video for a 4.2 anywhere. This is the only video I could find (thank god it’s a great one). Anyways, you posted this the same exact time my water pump gave out. If it wasn’t for you, I would be shit outta luck and a lot poorer. Thank you so much for posting this. So wild how you can randomly help someone you’ve never met without knowing you are doing it. Liked and subscribed. Thank you!!

what's the scoop on the MGA?

Let’s see the finished product.

Like the videos, I had a 1957 MGA, found in an old barn in 1966 when I was14 yrs old paid $50 for it got it running and drove it tell 1971. Had a good time with it wish I still had it.

Ya got t chain tigjtf this time.

Ya too much paint .no cooling

You forgot yt chain tightener.

I never saw the finished project. This young man was both so fun and inspiring to watch on this project.

You work fast - looks great

What brand of ultrasonic cleaner machine do you use/recommend? Tired of cleaning every bolt and nut individually by hand. Thanks Rick

Great job bro please can you help me out where can I find parts for this car I am on California thank you

Did you mention somewhere that this is not an MGA rear axle and rear brakes? If you did , I missed it.

I'm looking at a 60 MGA, and it has clutch problems. The guy told me it was burnt and frozen. The motor is painted nice like it was pulled, I have no idea why they didn't fix the clutch. Maby the disk is in backwards. My question is must I pull the motor to get at the clutch?

I'm looking at a 60 MGA, and it has clutch problems. The guy told me it was burnt and frozen. The motor is painted nice like it was pulled, I have no idea why they didn't fix the clutch. Maby the disk is in backwards. My question is must I pull the motor to get at the clutch?

what spings did use?