Hello TJJ. Thank you for your comment. If you are going to shape a piece of spring steel by cutting and filing, make the cuts smooth, and radius the internal corners. If you leave the internal corners at a sharp angle this may propagate a fatigue crack and the premature failure of your spring. Let me know how you get on. Take Care Jim

Hello Natali. You are right, I cut a length of M10 threaded bar. To cut a length of M12 bar will be slightly more work as the bar is 2mm thicker, but it will be easier to clear the thread as it is larger and easier to see. If you haven't used a hacksaw before it will take a little practice, but you should have no trouble cutting through a length of M12 threaded bar. Have a go, please tell me how you get on. Take Care Jim

Hello @dnyaneshwarlohar5850. The metal I used for the custom spring came from an old spring bed mattress. This metal was used to keep the springs within the mattress in their correct shape. It was an old mattress with no foam, just metal springs and a soft cover on each side. Thank you for your comment. Take Care Jim

Hello again @dnyaneshwarlohar5850. Just read my reply again, I didn't answer your question. All the metal within the mattress was spring steel. So I started with spring steel, made it soft, crafted it to the correct shape then brought back the spring again.

Hello Corey. Thank you for your comment and advertisement. I have no idea who Wood Prix plans are, but I hope you have lots of fun making sheds, garage doors, chairs, tables, fences, and even bird feeders! Take Care Jim

Hello @NikonCrayzee. Thank you so much for your subscription, comment, and kind words. I am so glad you enjoyed the video. Now keep up the practice, cut straight, cut well. Take Care Jim

Hello Arjun. Thank you for your comment. I am so glad you enjoyed the video. Take Care Jim

Hello Robert. Where on earth did you find a wife who buys you a motorcycle for your anniversary? Your one lucky man! Thank you for your comment I’m so glad you enjoyed the video. Take Care Jim

@ You won’t be surprised to know she hails from Great Britain and I am indeed a lucky man. Thank you sir.

Hello again @JW9422. Thank you for your comment. This Hacksaw Basics video shows the basic way to choose the number of teeth per inch of your blade depending on the thickness of your job. There is a more advance technique where you can use a coarse blade on thinner material and still keep, to the minimum of three tooth rule. I show that technique in the next video in this series “Hacksaw Techniques 2” use this URL to find it: kzbin.info/www/bejne/iKWbdmlnqqqtiKM I hope you find the video useful. Take Care Jim

Hello @JW9422. I noticed that bike. It’s a 1954 BSA B33, a 500cc single cylinder bike. It belonged to a mate of mine in the 1970's, he blew up the engine as he rode back to college. As he was in the middle of nowhere, he pushed it into a drainage ditch to keep it safe until the next weekend when he came back with mates, and they dragged it home. The bike sat in his garage the conrod had smashed through the front of the barrel and crank case. He bought one of them new jap bikes, a CB250 Honda. Well, several months later he needed to get rid of the B33, and as it happens, I had found an old BSA B33 engine. I bought the bike and built it up as a motorcycle and side car unit. Come 1999 I decided to rebuild it and in 2000 it was done. There you go a potted history of my B33. Had you worked out what type of bike it was? Take Care Jim.

Hello Henry. Thank you for your comment. Henry was the name of my father, brings back lots of memories just typing it. I'm glad you enjoyed the video. Take Care Jim

Hello Chris. I'm so glad you found the video useful. Thank you for your comment. Now don't forget, once you have finished using your hacksaw loosen the blade. May all your cuts from now on, go in the direction you want them to go. Take Care Jim

Hello @yasnyne. Thank you for your comment, I am glad you enjoyed the video. Take Care Jim

Hello Mike. I'm so glad you found my video useful. Thank you for the comment and good luck with the spring clips you need for your grinder shield. Let me know how it goes. Take Care Jim

@@steveharvey1398 Hello Steve. Thank you for your kind words. I’m so glad you liked the video. Take Care Jim

Hello Douwe. Keeping the hacksaw cut nice and straight does take a little bit of practice. First, I would check your blade is nice and sharp. When the blade is mounted in your hacksaw frame check it is straight along its length, and it’s not twisted. You say the blade always veers to the left. I suspect the problem is with your technique and not the blade. As I say in the video, the teeth of the blade cuts a slot in your job which is a little wider than the body of the blade. Because the blade is thinner than the slot it is cutting, you can steer the blade. If you notice the cut has started to drift to the left, what you need to do is bias the top of the blade to the left, now I don't mean push the blade to the left but looking along the length of the saw rotate it anticlockwise slightly so the top of the hacksaw blade rubs against the left hand side of the slot. If you do this and continue your cut the blade will start to cut to the right. I hope this helps, please let me know how you get on. Thank you for your comment. Take Care Jim

@@CYC123 thank you for your elucidating reply. I will retry and let you know

Hello @shortliner68. Thank you for the comment. I agree with you, the rim latch looks so much more attractive on a door than the modern internal locks. We only have three internal doors now in our house all of them have rim latch locks. Thanks again for your comment. Take Care Jim

Hello Again Nick. Thank you for your comment and continued support. So glad you enjoyed the video. Take Care Jim

Hello @metschambel4074. Thank you for your kind words, I'm so glad you enjoy my videos and find them useful. More will be coming. Take Care Jim

And doors are 27mm thick

Hello Ryan. Thank you for your comment and question. Unfortunately, the answer to your question is: "It depends". It depends on the type of hinge you use, the thickness of doors and cabinet, and how you need the doors to open and close. You must take care, understand how your hinges work, and how they must fit on the door. The Blum hinges I used required that large flat-bottomed hole in the back of the door, the diameter of that hole controlled how far the hinge could be fitted from the edge of the door and therefore the amount of overlap between the edge of the door and the hole you need it to cover in the cabinet. I looked through the hinge specification, I made sketches and drawings, but I was still not completely convinced I had it right. In the end I bought two hinges which I thought would do the job, I fitted them to two pieces of MDF as shown in my video. That little jig worked well, I tested my dimensions and the function of the hinge. What you see in the video is in face the second jig, the first one didn’t work as I thought it would. There are lots of variables when it comes to fitting hinges, I suggest you do what I did and test the hinge function on a jig. Sorry, I don’t feel I have been of much help. Please let me know how you get on. Take Care Jim

The UK went metric in 1965, it took some years for the system to take hold. I started my apprenticeship in 1971 so was trained using the new metric system and the old imperial system. I use metric by choice mow and must admit some time struggle when going back to imperial.

Hello again John. During my apprenticeship most of the test pieces were made to Imperial measurements. There were a couple of metric jobs to keep you on your toes. Most of our machines were imperial but again a couple were metric just to stir things up a bit. We had a shaper as well, I wonder if apprentices now days are shown what they are, probably not, the CNC machines can do everything now days! Take Care Jim

@@johnstorey5213 Hello John, at last, some one who understands the annoyance of others calling gear cogs. I was at the Science Museum in London on Wednesday. In front of me at one point was the Babbag Difference Engine. In the written description it spoke about the output of the machine going through “the row of cogs”. I looked to see if there were any cogs I had missed, no, I was surprised and a little saddened. Thank you for your comment, it warms my heart knowing someone else is annoyed by the incorrect use of the word “COG“. Thank you for your comment. Take Care Jim

Hello Nick. Thank you for another comment. I am right handed when it comes to do accurate things. When I'm working I have always tried to use both hands as the lead hand, I did this to share the work between my arms and not end up with a really worn out right hand/arm, but partly worn out both arms! It wasn't easy, my right hand is much better at doing things than my left. As I'm making videos, sometimes to get a good shot I need to use my left hand instead of my right, it comes in handy there. So there you have it, I'm right handed, but trying to be both. Take Care Jim

Hello again @Admiral Sargent-z9t. You watched the whole bedroom cupboard series end to end! Gulp, I take my hat off to you, I don't think I have ever done that! Thank you for your kind words, it was a big project but I think worth the time and effort, we enjoy it every day. Thank you for spending some of your time writing to us. Take Care Jim & Ann

Hello again @Admiral Sargent-z9t. I quite enjoyed making these doors. in fact, I quite enjoyed the whole build in this project. All the doors are still working very wall, its in use all the time. Than you for your comment. Take Care Jim

Hello @Admiral Sargent-z9t. Thank you for your kind words. I am so glad you enjoy my videos. I am at the moment doing some work on our house, I want to finish it as quick as I can, so I decided not to video it. my workshop is a mess and full stuff so nowhere really to make videos either. There are more to come in a month or so, so keep your eyes open. Thank you once again for your comment. Where about are you in the world? Take Care Jim.

@@CYC123 Ah that's understandable, I've heard filming and editing adds twice or more times the time to a project. I still have plenty of your back catalogue to catch up on anyway! I'm over in Hertfordshire but I'd like to get somewhere more rural (and affordable) so I could put up a few big sheds to work in! Thanks for taking the time to reply, hope all the work goes smoothly.

You live in Hertfordshire, I was born in Stevenage and did my Apprenticeship there at BAC, now called MBDA. I couldn't afford a house in Stevenage so looked at the towns further north. Ended up in a town called Flitwick in Bedfordshire. Take Care Jim

@@CYC123 I'm just outside of Stevenage here! it's a great hive of retail activity and industry; just a shame the traffic is so heavy all day.

Hello Nick. Thank you for another comment, glad you are enjoying my videos. Take Care Jim

Hello Nick. Another comment, thank you so much. It warms the cockles of my heart knowing someone out there likes my videos. Where abouts are you in the world? Take Care Jim

Hello Nick. Thank you for your comment. I'm so glad you enjoyed this video. The compressor is still working well. Take Care Jim.

Hello again Nick. Thank you for another comment. Yes, there you are in your workshop it’s time to build a work bench, and you think, "How high should a work bench be?" Well like everything, it depends.... Some people want to sit at their benches others want to stand. The type of job you will be working on also plays a part in this decision, are you rebuilding bike engines, or cutting old water pipe to make copper flowers. As it happens the height of my bench was decided for me. About 45 years ago I moved out of a council garage into the garage of my first house. At that time, I didn't have a work bench, I worked on the floor, and off a couple of old beer crates. One of my friends helped at the weekend in a car rally shop, the shop had just fitted out their workshop with brand new work benches, their old benches were going to the scrap yard, I could have them for free. Well, say no more, one hired trailer later and I had my two benches which I still use to this day. These benches from floor to worktop measure 840mm (2 foot 9 inches). My big vice measures 280mm (11 inches) from bench top to the top of vice jaws. My height is 1828mm (6 foot). The benches are heavily built the legs and frame are 50mm (2 inch) steel angle iron. The work top is 75mm (3 inch) thick wood covered with steel sheet. On top of that I use a sheet of thick plastic flooring material. Most importantly both benches are not only bolted to each other but also to the wall of the workshop as well, this makes the benches very stable. For what I do the benches are at a good height and the vice sits at the correct height for me to hacksaw at as you have seen on the video. I have rambled on a bit Nick, sorry about that, but I hope it is of use to you. Take Care Jim

Hello Nick. Thank you for you kind words and comment. I hope you and your hacksaw better understand each other now. Take Care Jim

Hello @EugenBadau. Thank you for your kind words, and your comment. I am glad you enjoyed the video. Take Care Jim

Hello Paul Thank you for your comment. My R75/6 needs the choke to start almost all the time. If the engine started without the choke being engaged, I would know there was something wrong. It sounds like the carburettors on your bike are allowing too much fuel into the engine. If your bike was working OK and now this problem has just arrived, then I would suspect the following things: Float height in the carburettor has become too high. I show how to check and set this in Part 5 of my BMW service series. See: kzbin.info/www/bejne/q57EgZ2KlriBfbc . This may be due to ware or bending of the tab on the float that operated the float needle valve. I did hear a story of a float losing its buoyancy, that made the engine run rich. Now, in the forty-nine years I have owned my R75/6 I have never had to adjust the carburettor needle height. Because of this I’m not 100% sure how to do it. I have just called a friend, it seems the needle can be in one of three, or four positions. My bike has the Bing Carburettors you saw in the video. What I’m about to say is correct (so I have been told) for that type of Carb, but I’m not sure if your carb is exactly the same as mine. The Carburettor needle is held in the slide of the carburettor. To get to the slide you need to remove the top of the carb and pull out the diaphragm and slide. You would have seen this in Part 3 of my BMW service series, URL: kzbin.info/www/bejne/jZnRpHmLr7d_gLM Now to adjust the height of the needle hold the needle firmly between your fingers and twist the slide. The needle should click, and its position will move. I’m sorry to say I don’t know which way to turn it. After a search on KZbin, I did find the following KZbin video: kzbin.info/www/bejne/rHfRhYmuopV5jNk Its not very clear but should I hope give you a clue on how to adjust the needle height. Please let me know how you get on. Take Care Jim

@@CYC123 Thank you for your response, I should have mentioned that I had upgraded the float set up to a totally different type of float set up, using new bowls which incorporates floats (from Motorworks BMW) I have been considering, returning to the original floats & bowls, the new bowls allow the starter choke jet to be removed. I have heard adjusting the needle to weaken the mixture makes a really big difference, but i've not carried out that job before.

Hello Paul The carburettors on my bike have been good, yes they do flood every now and then but that has never been a big problem, and always easily solved. I didn't realise you can upgrade the floats & bowls. Looking at the KZbin video I sent in my last post, it does seem to be an easy job to adjust the needle height, if I was you I would give it a go. Please, let me know how you get on. Take Care Jim

@@RustyInventions-wz6ir Hello Rusty Invention. I’m so glad you found my video interesting. Take Care Jim

@@MultiChessking Hello Gino. I’m so glad you found my video interesting. Take Care Jim

@@PhilipCritchlow Hello Philip, thank you for your comment. I’m sorry but I haven’t made a video showing how to perform a compression test. It’s not a difficult thing to do if you have, or can hire a compression tester. Remove both spark plugs, don’t add any oil into the cylinder through the spark plug hole at this time. screw the compression tester into one of the spark plug holes. Make sure the compression meter is reading zero then turn the engine over 4 or 5 times. The pressure should rise to round about 95 or 100 psi. Do this test on both cylinders making a note of the pressures obtained. Now if the pressure is very much lower on one cylinder than the other, it’s either a problem with the cylinder-piston-or piston rings or the valves in the head of that cylinder. You will be able to get more information by doing the following. Keep the spark plugs out of both cylinders, squirt a little oil into the spark plug hole of the cylinder with low pressure. Turn the engine over a couple of times with a rag over the spark plug hole. This will ensure you have not placed too much oil in the cylinder. Next connect the compression tester to that cylinder. Zero the pressure gauge and then turn the engine over 4 or 5 times. If the low compression was due to cylinder-piston or piston rings being worn the cylinder pressure will have increased a lot due to the oil filling gaps. If the pressure remains low then that could indicate one or both valves need to be serviced. I hope this helps. Please let me know how you get on. Take Care Jim

@CYC123 Thanks for this, Jim. Some people, and the Haynes manual, say take off the carbs. Any idea why?

@@PhilipCritchlow Hello again, a petrol engine has a carburettor, with the throttle closed the carb will restrict the air going into the cylinder, this may affect the reading of the compression tester. I had forgotten about this. To prevent any miss-readings it would be best to remove the carburettors from the rear of the cylinder. You will not have to remove any of the cables so it’s not a big job. Hope that helps. Jim

@CYC123 Thanks Jim, but why not just open the throttle?

@@PhilipCritchlow The bing carburettor is a Constant Velocity carburettor . Your hand throttle opens a butterfly in the carb, but between that and the input of the carb is a diaphragm operated carburettor slide which remains closed. The slide is pulled up by the diaphragm which is operated by the vacuum of that cylinder as the engine runs. Therefore to get a true reading from the compression tester it’s best to remove the carburettor, that way there will be no restriction to the air flow going into the cylinder. Hope that helps. Jim

Hello Don. Thank you for your comment. May none of your petrol taps ever leak! Take Care Jim

Hello @jovicaspasic3203. Yes, trying to adjust the points can be a walk along the thorny Path, I hope you didn't get stung! Thank you for your comment. Take Care Jim

Subscribed 👍🏻

Hello @mtrigby. Well done researching into the impact driver and getting it sorted. I'm glad you found my video useful. Thank you for your comment and I hope you never find a bolt or a screw you can't now remove. Take Care Jim

Thank you for subscribing, have a look at my older videos you may find something that interests you. I think they are all good, but perhaps I'm a little bias! Take Care Jim

Hello Richard. Thank you for your comment. I'm glad you enjoyed the video. Take Care Jim

Hello TurnScarlet. I am so glad the video is of use to you. I wish you luck with your new porch door. Thank you for the comment. Take Care Jim

Hello Takafoomi. I am glad you found my video useful, and more entertaining than the Clymer's manual. Thank you for your comment. Take Care Jim

Hello @cabezamiami. Thank you for your cryptic comment. I will assume you liked the video. Take Care Jim

Hello Howard. Thank you for your comment and bringing up an interesting point. Which side of the vice is best to use when hacksawing your job? I have in fact given this some thought over the years, sad fellow that I am! I have come to the opinion that it depends on the job you are about to cut. Let’s say you want to hacksaw down the left-hand side of the line that’s marked on your job. In this instance I would place the job in the left-hand side of the vice so the line would be as close to the jaw of the vice as possible, the closer to the jaw you are the more support the vice gives to the job and the less chance there is for chatter to occur. If I needed to hacksaw down the right-hand side of that line that’s marked on the job, then I would place the job in the right-hand side of the vice for the same reason as I said above. I would love to hear your thoughts on this. Take Care Jim

@@CYC123 Hi Jim, many thanks for your reply, I understand your reason for holding the work like that . However as you are right handed the same as me I would make every effort to saw the work on the left hand side of the vice , as your left hand is much clearer the vice as well . please keep making the video's we have much to learn bye for now Howard.

Hello Lightja-131. Tricky little things are hacksaws, if you don't know them. I'm glad my video was of use to you. Thank you for your comment. Take Care Jim

Hello Jay. Thank you for your comment, and kind words. Good luck with your doors. Take Care Jim

Hello again Sally. If you are good enough to use some of your valuable time sending me a comment, then surly, its only good manners to respond, especially when you have said nice things about my video. Happy hacksawing. Take Care Jim

Hello CS Park. Thank you for your comment and kind words. So glad this video was of use to you. Take Care Jim.

Hello Sally, or should I say master hacksawerer! Well done using the hacksaw. Most people think they know how to use this very useful tool, but, as you now know, there is a little bit more to it than what meets the eye. Thank you for your comment, Take Care Jim

Hello Hadi. Thank you for your comment and kind words. I’m pleased you found my video interesting. Take care Jim

Thanks Jim🙏 Great success to the channel!