Some model v70s had a place to use your key just to the right of the license plate lights underneath. My 2001 does not have it, so if you can't fiddle with the handle to get it open (back and forth), then I haven't got a clue how you'd open it. Good luck.

I seldom work on these anymore. Here's what I remember: I've only seen optical sound systems and film, but some models are supposed to be able to use magnetic sound films. You should be able to play both silent and sound films using the speed selector to switch between 18 and 24fps. Regarding 1500 and 2500 models, there are simply too many to consider. I'd select one with 24V lamp, not line voltage (110V). I'd also avoid those with still motion feature (Directamotion) - nothing wrong with it, but simply more complex when replacing worm gear. Otherwise, they're all very similar. Here's a link to Paul Iverson's database page on these projectors: www.paulivester.com/films/projector/bh_models.htm

@@mp5802 . Thanks a lot for your advice. . I have an opportunity to buy 2585 model . From Your link, I got the info that it uses 24 V 250 Watt ELC lamp . Made in 1986 . newer that other models. Optical sound system. But not sure about it can play both silent and sound films. if you have any idea , kindly share with me. Thanks again.

@@SUBORNOVISION I think most BH 1500 and 2500 projectors can change film speed from 18 to 24 fps. (The projector will need to have a good belt for this to work.) Here's a link to the Film-Tech projectors manuals page. Look for the 2585 manual, open it, and changing film speed appears to be on page 16. Good luck. www.film-tech.com/warehouse/index.php?category=2#16mm%20Projectors

@@mp5802 Thank you so much.

@@darryncarroll7953 I haven't fixed your projector for quite a while now but as I recall the speed switch moves the belt over to a smaller diameter on the motor pulley. Since I have no silent films I've never tried it myself. I can only guess that a worn out belt may not allow the speed change from 24 to 18 FPS.

Yes, 9154717 is it the right part number. I bought mine on eBay. Good luck.

I'm not sure how your experience with the dealer is relevant to a defective tailgate latch, but thanks for your input.

There is a projector bulb and an exciter bulb. If by "main light bulb" you mean the projector bulb, then no, that bulb has nothing to do with the amp. If the exciter bulb doesn't light even if you've replaced that bulb with a new one, then it is most likely a bad amp (but other things need to be checked - see my video on this topic). www.urbanskifilm.com sells amps (many kinds). I don't work on projectors much anymore. Good luck.

I have thought of making a worm gear video a few times and I might still do that someday. Meanwhile just do a search on KZbin and you'll find a few videos to get you started. The original manuals are available, but very hard to read in my opinion unless you're looking for something super specific.

Thanks Mike for your reply. I picked up the projector. As suspected the worm gear has a few hairline cracks and the belt is slipping. There is also some squeaking which is the belt or other moving part. I made a video of it running here; kzbin.info/www/bejne/bWLRfml-d5iMo5I I'll likely order parts from Larry. Any other part I should look to replace? Guess I also need to get some film for testing :) Thanks again! -Steve @@mp5802

@@stevefoster2700 Steve, I believe the 2592b is a still-function machine. In your video, one can see the large solenoid that controls it (look just above the AC cord). You’ll probably see a lever on the front that controls it, and perhaps another one called “Directamotion.” They use a still-function gear, if one wants to preserve that function. Van-eck sells them made on 3D printers. Since still-function really isn’t used by film buffs nowadays, techs often strip out those components (I do) and install a normal gear purchased from Larry U. It fits, but make sure that you get setscrews with it - Larry sells them with or without setscrews. The gears and belts are the two most common problems, so you probably won’t need to replace anything else. The most important thing to get right (and most often ignored) is the sprocket timing. When you pull the old gear out, the timing will be disturbed and need an adjustment. If it’s not set right, the machine can shred film. Take a look at my video on this topic here: kzbin.info/www/bejne/n53Vn2impNGDg9Esi=oM5Cuyv5GzrPNBW6 Also look at this forum thread regarding this topic: 16mmfilmtalk.com/viewtopic.php?p=233424#p233424

Thanks Mike!

Take the back off and check the belt and gear. I'd replace both. I used to do these both for $300 labor plus parts and shipping, but I'm "retired" now. Good luck, and thanks for looking.

Larry and his tech will help you troubleshoot this. In the meantime, do check that the film is snug where it goes around the sound drum. The sound flywheel (inside) maintains a constant film speed at this point, with two spring-loaded guide rollers (outside, top and bottom) maintaining a light pressure on the film around the sound drum. If the rollers stick, that can cause wow or flutter in your sound. Without film loaded, manually try moving the guides apart and up and down by hand to see if they are sticking; if you pull them apart, they should snap back together. I've had to clean/lube the pivot point inside to get them freed up if they stick. This is not easy to do, since the pivot is inside the sound housing and behind the flywheel. Work with Larry on this. Here's a link to illustrate where the sound drum and rollers are: drive.google.com/file/d/1BekulMNqzxB8ZvB6I6CdWwPRT90kqypU/view?usp=drive_link

@@mp5802 thank you for your response. I'll check that. I do know that Larry checked the projector and made sure it is maintained. He's great. And everything seems to be now running correctly, on the same films that started having the issues. I remember one of them had some bad sprockets which caused the automatic loop restore have to kick in. When I ran it again, the projector then handled that same section with no issues. Although I think the problem of the running of the film was from the beginning to end with the wobbly uneven speed when I first started having issues. I'll keep testing it, I still have some time with Larry's guarantee.

I'm sorry, that topic is just too complex to summarize in a comment. Look around on KZbin, and you'll find a few decent videos about it. Good luck.

Probable broken worm gear or belt (typically, replace both). Watch this: kzbin.info/www/bejne/jJ6rhZ2jYr2tetksi=5GvvNIvUdWNPkCiJ

Sorry but I've never worked on one of those models, although they're probably similar to the 1500 and 2500 series. If you can hear a small hum (motor) from inside the case when you turn the switch on, then it might be as simple as the belt slipped off. At least, take the back off the machine, turn it on and see if the electric motor is spinning. Otherwise you just have to get your voltmeter out and track down the problem.

I haven't run into a new projector bulb not working. First make sure that you are putting the right bulb in (some are 24V DC, but machines that use line voltage are 120V. AC Usually, there's a label near the bulb, and the old bulb would obviously be your guide as well. Other than that, I'd start with my voltmeter and check that the right voltage is at the socket, then follow the wiring if you haven't got the proper voltage. I really haven't been working on projectors recently. Good luck.

Sorry, but I haven't owned that projector for a couple of years. As I recall it was pretty obvious where the film was pushed into a hole. Sorry I can't tell you more

@mp5802 thanks for getting back so soon. I did figure it out. Mine just isn't feeding correctly. You put it in and it gets stopped right where it should go in front of the lamp for some reason. Anyway thanks.

Actually, there is no set screw that holds the worm gear on the shaft on a still- function machine (the ones with the clutch). The gear on those freewheels unless the clutch is engaged. They are kept from moving laterally with a circlip that goes around the shaft on both sides. I don't have a video to show you about that.

@@mp5802 if you can make a video to show me ill venmo you 30 bucks. Im completely stuck until i get some help.

You are very welcome.

Funny...I have already responded to how to load/unload film on these models. See page 20 of this manual: www.film-tech.com/warehouse/manuals/BH258525902592OPER.pdf

Basically, swing the lens open, then open the sprocket guards on both top and bottom sprockets. Then, gingerly loosen the film off the sprockets and pull it out.

@@mp5802 Thank you so much! I thought that might be the only way but wanted to make sure. I'm so afraid of damaging my film. And I truly appreciate you responding to me after you've already answered this question in the past. I should have done a little more research before bothering you. Thank you. 💘

Back in 2021, I emailed Van-Eck about the quality of the 3-D gears. Here's what they said: "The gear is made from nylon. Very sturdy and solid. We have sold over 100 of these gears the last 5 years and many happy customers bringing there projectors to live again." I use silicon paste dielectric grease (because I have it!). Larry Urbanski and other old time projector guys recommend Super Lube. They've used it for decades. I don't see why Molykote wouldn't work either. Any modern grease will be superior to the old petroleum-based greases available in the 60s-70s.

Thanks for your follow-up Mike. I have a feeling that they may have missed the point. They may well be sturdy and solid etc, but the concern (for me at least) is whether the surface finish is too granular and abrasive which may be detrimental to the two meshing gears. Perhaps it's ok, who knows, only through regular use will you know I suppose. Thanks too for your thoughts about lubrication. No doubt the application of lubrication will help regardless of surface finish. Are there any tight spots when you turn it by hand Mike? Kind regards.@@mp5802

The one on the right is pushed down to speed up rewinding - never use it when film is threaded through the film path. The one on the left is the framer knob which is turned left or right to adjust frame centering shown on the screen.

Try eBay. Be prepared to spend some serious money if you want a feature film. I'd start out with an inexpensive short film to test the projector before risking an expensive film in it.

@@mp5802 thanks for the reply, yeah 🤦🏼‍♂️ had a look at a few and 🤯 with the prices. Found some cheap Disney short documentaries that I might get to test it out.

I do not, but you might send a message to Larry urbanski at urbanskifilm.com

Yes, the reel capacity is up to 2000 ft on this series projector. Most longer films that I've used are on 1600 ft reels (30 min.).