Glad to hear you found the video of use and fixed the issue!!

Did you check the fuel pressure on the rail? What you describe sounds like your fuel pump isn't working.

yes sir have 37 lbs presser

@@raywalker724 ​ What year of exploder? Model of engine? V8? V6 ohv or SOHC? Lastly, any difference if you hold the gas pedal to the floor and try to start?

@@Theoriginalmalcontentcorner its a 95 with a 4,0 an yes i,v tried every thing so its time to change the cam sensor as i dont have any pluse at the injectors thanks

@@raywalker724 : Oh perfect. I suspect you had the 4.0 OHV version but I don't like to assume. I was going to say- your pressure at the fuel rail looks good, so I think you are on the right path. Let me know how it all turns out, would you?

By turn over do you mean crank via starter or fire up and run? If fire up and run, then a shot of starting fluid in the intake runner is a good route to go.

Nice!!

The magic smoke that escaped after you replaced the fuse is concerning. Best to see what was smoking...

The tank flush is easy. Once I had the grommet out and the funky fluid drained I just put a hose in the reservoir to flush it out. Once i ran water through it, I just put it back together and it is still working fine to this day. As for the cost- sorry, no idea. Mechanic's seem to be about making bank since Covid and rates have gone through the roof. Rates of $150 per hr seem to be common now.

Good luck!!

Well i do mention in the video how a battery can go bad suddenly and literally overnight. So with that in mind- How old is your battery? Do you have it on a trickle charger?

Obviously, you didn't watch the video. You don't have to pull the cam seals to do a belt, but you do have to pull the belt to do the cam seals, which is what this video is about. You by your own words haven't worked on a "lot of Chrysler products. Since you haven't worked on a Chrysler 2.5 I will enlighten you: In order to pull the belt, you have to release tension on the belt. To do such you have to get to the idler wheels which are under the lower portion of the timing belt cover. That cover is captured by...wait for it...the harmonic balancer. So, you have to pull the balancer to remove the cover to get to the tension idler to then remove the tension from the belt to remove the belt so you can then pull the cam sprockets to replace the cam seals. End of story.

Well at least you got 5 more years out of it but in my case and given my luck, I decided to just replace it. Shame I didn't do such on the cam seals the 1st time around!🤣😂

I know!!

Booo! Sorry to hear.

Steven, the bracket allowed me to hook my DMM in parallel with the ground lead so that I could take the negative lead off the post but not kill the power to the car. Why? Because the Belt module was intermittent. Sometimes, it worked properly, and the car would pull 15ma. Other times, it was misbehaving to the tune of it pulling over an amp (1.2 if memory serves me correctly) for HOURS and thereby killing the battery in about 2 days. Breaking the circuit would allow that module to 'reset' and work as it should...for a spell. So, I had to find a way to easily hook my meter up and not break the circuit. Hence the bracket. Now, unlike you, I had no reason to suspect said module. My car hasn't flooded. However, unlike you, I had nothing to go on other than the usual b.s. trash that the internet had offered up such as "check your dome light, check your trunk light". So, with that being said you don't have to watch the video any further for you have the cliff note version at hand. As for your wishes- This is the 2nd week in a row where you've complained, commented and otherwise pointed out my gaffs yet your questions show me that you didn't watch the complete video. Now you don't need to watch as I told you all I did but remember something- this sh*t is free and this isn't a professional production. I don't have a crew nor the time to 'write a script' and practice with 3 to 5 videos. This is a one-man operation of a busy guy. Animals, wife, life, they all take their time. If I got paid, I'd LOVE to do T.V. worthy shows but I don't and YT is free. So, I try my best. If you think you can do better, than by all means please do. Your channel shows you've posted nothing other than comments (nothing like the luxury of criticism, eh?) so it may be an eye-opening experience for you to film, edit and post content. That being said, if you don't like something I said, or my delivery makes you "anxious" then just move on. Hate the sound of my voice? Move on. I said X instead of Y, move on...especially when it involves a video I made 2 years ago! Think you can do better? Please do. Let's see your results. However, until I get paid for this to where I can get script writers, a teleprompter, editing crew, etc., you get what you get with warts and all and sadly I am an incredibly flawed human.

​@@TheoriginalmalcontentcornerSorry I insulted your work, John. I need to watch these videos much more before I comment. Actually, you're doing a really great job! I'm sure you already know the permitted current draw is 50ma. All these Chrysler Convertibles had a lot of parasitic current draw. They had certain fuses pulled when these cars arrived at the Dealerships. Because fuse #5 & some others would drain the battery before 30 days. So...if a customer wanted to test-drive a Sebring Convertible, they would have a guy put the fuse #5 & whatever others back in. So it would start. I doubt Chrysler told their customers about the parasitic draw problems. Please forgive my ignorant, low-life trashy opinion.

@@trainman1209 : No worries, it is all good. I know there will be some parasitic draw. Main issue was that the module would go bad,, I'd disco the batt to measure the amperage and dang if it all didn't 'work and look' like it should because said module reset and worked like it should. Typical intermittent issue that is a PITA to find and fix but all is good now.

Local salvage yards typically has a ton of exploders in stock.

Wow! That's crazy!! Had to laugh when you wrote: " Did only that for a few years until some very strange things began happening!" As if that wasn't strange enough?? *ROFL* Thanks for the update though about your experience.

@@Theoriginalmalcontentcorner Forgot to mention that the power locks were popping up and down as well. 😁

Great! Glad to hear it helped out.

Sorry but I do not.

What? It is cold in Canada? LOL

Hey glad to read it helped out! Safe travels!!

Well, this video is about the sealing of headers. As such I didn't cover the minutia of headers installation or maintenance. Plus in this day and age, I would hope most know about locking header bolts! And if not, then you just informed them.😜

Can it be repaired.... Pat answer is - yes. Can it be repaired by someone such as yourself, or even me, who worked as an electronics technician is my past? No or incredibly doubtful. It's a circuit board with a slew of surface mounted components upon it and without a schematic, you'll be hard press to know what does what. I believe there are places that do repairs commercially but I think your best bet is junkyard or fleabay.

Best of luck and well wishes for a smooth job!!

Sorry mate, no joy here for that but I believe you have to pull the primary cover for such.

Yup. That's why I mentioned in the video about having a good battery.

So what happens when you try the starter on the bike? Does it spin? Exactly what is it doing?

Can't say I've had that problem. Are you tightening the bolts all the way with a wrench? Sounds weird that the tube would twist.

it was nickel copper tubing. tried everything I could think of. about twenty times. It puts a little thread almost on the flare. I went with braided stainless lines. I might try it on steel tubing. thanks for the video.@@Theoriginalmalcontentcorner

Well mate, I'm sorry to hear that. In theory nickle/copper line is softer than steel so this tool should flare the line with no problem. Only things I can think of to cause this problem would be either the clamping block is worn out (would require a ton of prior use to do that), the O.D. of the line is smaller than the specified size and is too small for the clamp block or perhaps there wasn't enough lube on the flaring die. All I can say is that I used this tool on my 3/16th steel line and it flared perfectly and the block itself did help straighten out a bent up line.