This science should turn into a battery management software project. I also think than an auxiliary easy to replace battery (a few kg.) can be added to the system in order to smooth things out for the main battery. I imagine a cheap lead-acid battery used as a buffer (spend first charge last fashion..) in order to keep the lithium battery say within %40 - %70 range. It can be replaced at every service with a new one and recycled. With proper software it could reduce the stress. Could be a good design decision to transfer the burden to a more serviceable (or replaceable) part .

Excellent clip which solves so many issues.

Thanks for posting that. I have a 16” saw with this problem. It’s a different brand but looks like it was made in the same factory. Can only turn the band wheels backwards to adjust blade tracking. Did you work out an electrical solution to disengage the brake or remove it once out of warranty?

I bought a carbon oxy 10 with dual 1000 what motors its capped at 40kmh idk why im trying to unlock it

Question: What is better for the battery: Charging 110V 12A, or 220V 22A, or 42A?

Question: What is better for the battery: Charging 110V 12A, or 220V 22A, or 42A?

Love how you cut right to the chase and breakdown all this technical info into something I can understand!!

What about people who don't have home chargers and usually charge once a week? 😔

Would the Tesla M3 Highlander be a Lithium battery (LFP one)? Under the study’s standards?

Best to charge from 25% or 45% to 75% according to the chart.

Brilliant video, super easy to understand and very informative. It really helped me learn more about coffee machines since I'm new to this. Thanks!🤩

The use of theoretical years assumes that you change the number of miles you run the car for over its life and thats a fallacy. I'll be doing 20,000KM a year no matter how I charge so if I start short charging I'll no-doubt have to charge more often. A better way to think about it is in terms of the number of megawatts the battery is going to have to deliver over its life. Think about this: (i) (100-25)/100percent range*1000 charges*1000*300KWHR = 225MWHR through the battery (which I've assumed to be 300KWHR) which is highly related to the number of miles you get. (ii) (75-65)/100percent*9000 charges*300KWHR = 270MWHR through the battery. So the actual yield difference from the battery best case to worst case is only 20% - significant but not earth shaking. In fact the best scenario in your graph seems to be the 5th one down: (iii) (75-25)/100*4650*300 = 435 MWHR, closely followed by the 6th one (iv) which seems to be about 420 MWHr. Say you have a tesla model 3 performance, drive 20,000 km per year (about 12500 miles for the imperials) and use the manufacturers power rating of 16.5 KWHR/100KM this theory says you'll get: (i) 6.8 years (136,000KM) running 25-100% (ii) 8.2 years (163,000KM) running 65-75% (iii) 13.2 years (263,600KM) running 25-75% (iv) 12.7 years (253,600KM) running 45-75% So keep it 25-75 and you'll extend the life of you battery, whereas by comparison 65-75 will shorten it...

Sooooo 80% to 25% would be good enough for most people. (Low mileage drivers) Thats my plan.

Since EVs have not been around for 23 years this is another Bullsh!t lie about sh!t EVs.

1) Tesla actually defines the useful life of the battery to be 70% (at least that's the threshold for their warranty claims). Of course, as long as the battery is serving its purpose, basically you could keep using it far after even 70%. Though, it will severely limit your range for long road trips. 2) This is why the bigger battery you get, the nicer it is. Even if you're not going to use the range. Because the bigger battery you have, the easier it is to stay in the sweet spot. The bigger battery you have, the less impacted you are by loss of range, whether you loss that range due to aging battery, or because of the weather, etc. Of course, it's also nice to just have that extra range when you need it.

In less than 10 years, changing a battery like this will be SO CHEAP. I wouldn't worry about it one bit. There can be far more expensive problems with an ICE vehicle.

Bad maths. A discharge from 100% to 25% gives you 75%. A discharge from 75% to 65% gives you 10%, which is almost 8 times less. With a 75-65 you get more cycles but you only a tiny amount of charge for each cycle, which means you get approximately the same mileage. Doing a 75-65 also means you can't go very far and you need to keep re-charging constantly. Really, really not worth the hassle. If you do a 90-10, you'll only need to re-charge once a week and your battery will easily last you 10 years or more. In 10 years' time there'll be much better batteries and you won't want your old battery anyway.

Brilliant. I have struggled to get contacts and messages to sync. Well done.

I'm beginning to think the Zoom 876e brakes are garbage. I have a new set, and after purging the air and getting a firm lever- 10 minutes later it is soft again.

If it doesn't show but works is to your advantage for awhile

Well, if you top up only a small amount a small amount (like the 10%) you end up having to charge your battery more often, more charge cycles. So less battery life. This needs another chart to account for that in an overall what do i get out of the battery.

It's because Elon fired the entire Tesla Supercharger team earlier this year. Yaaay, Elon Space-Jesus!

White interior rules. Also this should have been a KZbin short:) And less backstory about food :) also.. very odd if not a bug.

Thank you for the very helpful video.

What isn't made in China? And if it says made in America it's probably a lie. American made doesn't make it better humans are humans everywhere. Gm cars mess up too even though there made in USA.

petrol it is

In the UK non Tesla’s with membership can only charge at certain Superchargers. Only those that are open to non Tesla’s will show on the app.

Great to see your videos again mate. Haven’t noticed the problem with the Superchargers but it’s a bit worrying. Thrumster is a great charging location!

If I use 20% every day, am I better off charging to 70% and dropping to 50, 60 to 40, or 50 to 30?

Well, you don’t use 100% of your battery every day do you? So to say “oh you’ll only last a year” is kind of stupid. It would be over a span of many days before a recharge. All in all, rather than say by charging only 10% each time, you can use 16 years, it’s more like you can enjoy 2x more battery life than 100% discharge.

Ty so much for this ❤❤❤❤

Great info, thanks! Take away when converting DST cycles to total kWh (and therefore total km): Charging from 25% to 75% is the best of the tested scenarios (same as 45% to 75% when considering 90% capacity retention, but more practical AND better when considering 85% capacity retention). My battery (I assume all / most?) is not allowed to discharge to less than 20%, and not allowed to 'fast charge' to more than 80% which is sensible based on the above. Best outcome would be to let battery get close to zero range (20-25%) then trickle charge at home to 75-80%. DO NOT CHARGE TO 100% as this had a bigger impact on life cycle than whether the battery was discharged to 50% or 25% (25% to 100% same total kWh as 50% to 100%).

I see lots on this topic about batteries for full EVs though very little for a PHEV which what I happen to have (Mazda CX-90 PHEV 17.8-kWh lithium-ion battery). I am finding I my daily driving is in the 40km to 60km range, occasionally farther which is when the gasoline engine comes in handy but I did buy it with the idea that the majority of my driving would be in EV mode. My car has only about a 40km electric range and trying to keep it in the 20% to 80% range generally recommended for batteries means the usable electric range would be reduced to only 24km which is not much at all. I understand that for a PHEV the battery never really gets to 0% no matter what the gauge on the dash shows but I don't know what it actually does go down to. When I questioned my dealer they said charging the battery to 90% daily is fine (at home not fast charge) and I don't worry about how low it goes, I let the car's software deal with that. If I am away for a month or more, which does happen from time to time, I store it with about a 50% charge. I've only had the car for a year so it's hard to tell if I am doing the right thing or not. I've no idea what will happen long term and no one seems to be able to tell me.

Great information, I'm thinking of buying an electric car as my mileage has reduced to around 10 miles a day with the odd day around 150 Cheers Garry B in Manchester UK

This is v-e-r-y helpful -- my commute (four days a week) is right a thirteen miles round-trip, so I wouldn't really have to recharge more than every five days or even weekly (but maybe the occasional weekend road trip), but as another commenter posted, the battery will more than likely out-live me

Exactly the info I was looking for. Thank you!

Oh by the way, I should thank you for your valuable information, and I really learned a lot, I just felt like sharing what I calculated, thanks again

I think something is missing here, you didn’t take into account the distance travelled with each recharging cycle, with that being considered i think the one with cycling between 45%-75% will last far more than the one with cycles between 65%-75%

I think without the pump your boilers will not produce much pressure...

The wider the gap between charge and discharge levels means less often the charge between days. So instead of daily, it may be charging every 3 or 4 days. That effectively triple or quadruple the baterry life.

i’d be interested to see tests where they actually not only considered the state of charge that the car bought up to but also the range and which they maintain the battery at would’ve thought that the main issue with battery degradation is the constant physical expansion of the battery pack if you only charging it by 10% that’s fairly minor I would’ve thought so I don’t think these figures are very reliable. We are charging it through the very significant range of charge.

i’m surprised that given these findings the battery doesn’t provide some kind of feedback. Back To The user and apart from this also display the any battery degradation. Why do people have to buy a special device to go and find the actual battery capacity? Surely this stuff should be presented by the car you shouldn’t have to go rummaging around to find it.

Thing is, unless you are using an OBD monitor to get into some data, that 80%-90% on your car's infotainment/cluster may actually represent a different actual % of the battery, which may have segmented or reserved a certain amount for core functions and protection. Example: 80% is a generally accepted number for most batteries, but Volvo recommends 90%.

So I keep the car between 65-90%, 90 being the recommended level for battery health (volvo). I think this is a small enough depth of charge while keeping enough on hand in case I need it or am unable to charge. The Volvo has a short range (200 miles) so I wouldn't be comfortable keeping it between 40-60 regularly. That's on me though. I'm the same way with all of my devices.

Sorry, but the reason why Taycan is more efficient at roads is because it has a gearbox with 2 speeds. Over 80km/h the second gear is used

I've arrived at much the same conclusions independently. I now set the normal daily charge limit to 60% on my Tesla and plug it in to a UK 3 pin plug overnight with a 'granny charger'. I plug it in every night, and normally do less than 20 miles a day. If I go on a long trip I charge to 100% the night before. There's absolutely no point charging your battery to 80% or more if you only use 10% or less on 99% of days

I want to specifically thank you for this video, and the related longer one, regarding charging. It has changed the way I will be charging my Bolt EV. I had planned on one or two charges a week, thinking a "cycle" was a plug in and charge, regardless of the charge level of the battery. Instead I've learned to keep the battery in that 45-55%, or 40-60% charge, as much as possible, for battery longevity. We will be using our EV for the daily commute, maybe 30 miles a day with sidetrips, and plugging in nightly at a slow trickle using the level 1 charger provided will easily keep the battery topped to that level. My remaining question is, is Level 2 more efficient in overall power usage? We could install a lavel 2 if we wanted, and if it saves money over the long run might be worth doing.

If you only drive 15km per day why not just charge once a week therefore reducing the number of cycles by 7.

I seem to be following the blue line for the most part on an easy 250 mile range car. It would mean I'll likely be dead before the battery is below 90%.

Too expensive for me..