It's a good, thorough video, but why two solenoids? The purpose of the four-post solenoid you used typically covers the entire wiring setup.
@chickenhousemechanicКүн бұрын
@derekmckay7397 one solenoid runs the starter the other runs the glow plugs/manifold heaters on the diesel model tractors. Gas model tractors only have one.
@derekmckay7397Күн бұрын
@chickenhousemechanic thank you for clarifying! Do you think this exact wiring setup would work on a MF 231? I am not a fan of the complex wiring of the 231 - safety switches, turn signals, etc and would like to strip it all out and wire it to the basics, like this.
@chickenhousemechanicКүн бұрын
@derekmckay7397 I'm not familiar with the wiring on that model tractor, but the basics of the system should work. Those solenoids are actually just big relays. Like any relay, small current switches large current, so you should be able to make it work on the Massey.
@jodygriffith86354 күн бұрын
You do some serious good work
@chickenhousemechanic4 күн бұрын
@@jodygriffith8635 thank you.
@aromp355518 күн бұрын
It seems like I'm doing everything right up until I put the pump in. It will not seat into the drive gear. If I turn the pump 180 it will seat perfect please help
@chickenhousemechanic18 күн бұрын
@aromp3555 do you have the drive in the engine correctly installed? Both the pump and the drive shaft have offset keys on them. If you have the drive and pump shaft the same as my video but don't see the lines in the window, the pump may be put together 180⁰ out. The tractor will not run with the pump 180⁰ out. Once you start trying to crank the tractor, it will smoke a lot if the pump is installed correctly before it fires off.
@aromp355516 күн бұрын
@chickenhousemechanic I pulled #1 injector to confirm I'm at tdc and the drive gear correct position and it is. Timing marks on 23° slot in drive gear is in correct position with larger part of the hole to the block. I've lined up the timing marks on the injection pump when I dropped the pump in it will not completely seat itself in the drive gear it's binding and will not seat itself in the hole if I pull the pump turn the shaft 160 it will slide in just as it's supposed to this should be very simple I'm not sure what I'm doing wrong here
@chickenhousemechanic16 күн бұрын
@aromp3555 sounds like you have the engine set correctly. Was the pump rebuilt?
@aromp355516 күн бұрын
@chickenhousemechanic all I did was put umbrella seals in it. I thought I kept track of the shaft but apparently I did not
@chickenhousemechanic16 күн бұрын
@aromp3555 Yeah, you might have the shaft backwards then. Should be able to just pull the shaft out and rotate it. Should only have to pull it out maybe 3/8".
@Ariel152620 күн бұрын
Excellent video, thanks. I have a Ford 3910 that I'm trying to fix its PTO. There's a leak there and it won't stop when you move the handle under the seat. It just turns slower but doesn't stop completely, how can I fix this?
@chickenhousemechanic20 күн бұрын
@Ariel1526 thank you. I'm not familiar with a 3910 tractor. The closest I have is a 68 3000. It has a clutch for the pto along with a transmission clutch, a double clutch. On it, if the pto is shifted off and it's still spinning, something is bent in the shift linkage at the rear of transmission. A sticking clutch would make it spin when clutch is depressed. I'd say most likely you have a binding linkage somewhere, but I don't know where to point you on that model.
@janendkumar907820 күн бұрын
This is for Ford or major?
@chickenhousemechanic20 күн бұрын
@janendkumar9078 the regular Ford tractors. I want to say the majors use the same gasket set, but I'm not sure if adjustments are the same between the two.
@JT-qf4it23 күн бұрын
That's called a reseal. A rebuild would be to replace all the worn parts, measuring clearances and placing the pump on a test stand to set up the output and timing.
@georgetossi600824 күн бұрын
where do you get the seals and what size are they
@chickenhousemechanic24 күн бұрын
@georgetossi6008 seals are just regular o-rings. Can't remember sizes, but it should be easy to match them up.
@billypirtle144325 күн бұрын
My grandfather bought this tractor new.
@billypirtle144325 күн бұрын
I painted my tank same color as the hood for protection.
@billypirtle144325 күн бұрын
It's taken you a while to get the old girl back together but looking good. It took me 2 years to do mine looks good today is the Christmas parade first time she been out of the shop going to show her off today pulling the high school flot.
@ericl9851Ай бұрын
So do the arms have to be down to pull cover off? Alll bolts are out but will not budge in the back can lift the front tho. The arms are stuck all way up and won't go down
@chickenhousemechanicАй бұрын
@ericl9851 pretty much. The rocker in the middle tucks under the rear of the center section casting and makes it very difficult to remove top cover. If you have all the bolts out, you can try sliding the cover forward some and tilting it up to see if the rocker will clear. If not, try removing the 4 bolts holding the cylinder in place and seeing if the arms will fall enough to clear the rocker to casting. You'll have to work through pto shifter and support cylinder since you don't want to let it fall and possibly break or damage output shaft of transmission.
@KennethBarker-h6uАй бұрын
I have a 800 ford that just lifts win it feels like it rebuilt pump changed fuild o rings everything if it does lift it got be cold once it warm up it will not pick back up what could be wrong.
@chickenhousemechanicАй бұрын
@KennethBarker-h6u sounds like the heat is making something expand and causing fluid to bypass. My first thoughts would be either the wobble shaft in the pump or leaking around the piston in the top cover. You can easily check the piston by removing the pto shifter cover and see if fluid is leaking out of cylinder. The wobble shaft would have to be removed and visibly inspected.
@stevegirardin4379Ай бұрын
Does this video cover the 1964 Super Dexta?
@ΑλεξανδροςΚοντος-υ6ζАй бұрын
You are the best my friend
@Nupa-bb1xs2 ай бұрын
Someone must design new automatic gearbox for all simple ford tractors , like 3600, 4600, 7000 etc and 10 series too.
@damianmotboss2 ай бұрын
kzbin.info0se5LNmPr9k?si=vl74Ys8960_FJ8n1
@damianmotboss2 ай бұрын
Nie działa mi 6 7 8 bieg wiesz co może być zepsute?
@chickenhousemechanic2 ай бұрын
I dont know much about these transmissions but id check band adjustment and fluid level and condition first.
@pedror95652 ай бұрын
Sir, thank you for the tutorial. I am in the middle of rebuilding my power steering pump and your video was a big help.
@nanakofiaddo84782 ай бұрын
I blew a hole in the side of my 7710 that a 97 hp tractor. I need to replace the engine and my question is which options do i have with engine replacement and will i still have the tractor at 97 HP ?
@chickenhousemechanic2 ай бұрын
@nanakofiaddo8478 I'm not familiar with that model of tractor, but I'd think any engine from a 7000-9000 would work and should keep at least that much horsepower.
@philliphall51982 ай бұрын
I tell them to take 2 pictures first once the drum is off 😊😊😊
@petascalecomputing2 ай бұрын
Great Advice!
@hoobsgarage2 ай бұрын
I have one of these one tractors, and i was installing a new gear shift knob cause all that was left was the "insides" of the old knob and the rest of the knob is gone, lol Anyway, it was very tight, and i was using vise grips to grab what was left of the old knob and turn it. After i got it off and new installed, it doesn't feel to me like it goes as far to the reverse side as it does to 3rd gear side, not 3rd and only 3rd, every gear on that side. Still goes in gear and works fine but now im paranoid lol. Is there anything internally i could've bent putting all that pressure on it or anything? I even thought i better not put all this pressure on it so i tried to hold the pressure back by pulling the shaft back toward with my hand while turning the other way with vise grips. If it still works i probaly shouldn't even worry, but I tend to overthin kthings and basically look for problems, lol. And your videos all amazing ive watched several many times and your effort on these videos and knowledge of what youre doing is amazing.
@stilltuckered3 ай бұрын
Selecto speed stuff is at a premium, when available.
@andrewhudson56213 ай бұрын
Hi, really great videos !! Please could you tell me the size of the bolt to pull the stop out ?
@chickenhousemechanic3 ай бұрын
@@andrewhudson5621 1/2"-20 thread. Length is about 3".
@DougieD613 ай бұрын
Imma buy you a VISE.
@schafn3 ай бұрын
A few months ago I bought a new fuel valve to replace the leaky one that I had on my 800. The new one leaked when the valve was in the on position even more than the old one did so I brought it back to the store and got a different one. That one leaked too. No leaks when the valve was off but there was a steady drip when it was on. I was frustrated, but the leak was slow enough that I didn't think the tractor would start on fire plus I had to use it so I sent it. I few days later I went to use the tractor again, turned the valve on, and there was no leak at all. Months have passed and the thing still doesn't leak. I'm guessing that the o-ring in the valve gets dry and has to be exposed to gas to swell up a little bit. Once it has done that (?) it stops leaking. It's the only explanation I have.
@johnbuchel72203 ай бұрын
Good call. My IP was missing the governor rubber ring, just like yours. Back together now and working perfectly on my 861. My biggest problem on the tear down was the cam bolt removal. Luckily I kept from breaking it but I did break several tools. Finally ordered the Bristol spline wrench. I then cut an inch and 1/2 off the new wrench, then pressed it in a number 7MM, 1/4 socket with some epoxy. Then snapped in 3/8 to 1/4 adapter, and was able to finally loosen the cam with a breaker bar and some tapping. Took me 2 weeks and a lot of cuss words. Again your good explanations theory, timing was right on. It gave me the courage. Thanks.
@chickenhousemechanic3 ай бұрын
@johnbuchel7220 glad to hear you got it working. That bristol bolt can be a pain. On my 861, I got it out with a torx bit, but on the 4000 I used a 1/4" hex and it worked just fine. It was pretty tight though. Had me worried before it came loose.
@MrZulu-w4h3 ай бұрын
The fingers before attaching to the engine
@jcarney423 ай бұрын
Do you do your own electroplating?
@chickenhousemechanic3 ай бұрын
@jcarney42 yes. I use a copy cad kit from Caswell Plating.
@jcarney423 ай бұрын
Are you using cadmium?
@chickenhousemechanic3 ай бұрын
@jcarney42 no it's zinc plating. Caswell just calls it copy cad.
How critical are those draft and position measurements? I see another video where they say 3/16 and 1/4”.
@jcarney423 ай бұрын
Then another with 10 and 13MM
@chickenhousemechanic3 ай бұрын
@jcarney42 they're pretty critical to having everything working correctly. If not set properly draft may not work at all, and position control will not work properly in relationship to the touch lever.
@TroyTyler-p5p3 ай бұрын
I’ve got a 4000 with same pump. I’m not getting fuel out of the pump to my lines. Any ideas?
@chickenhousemechanic3 ай бұрын
@TroyTyler-p5p depending on how long tractor has sat, it could be multiple things. If tractor has set for a while it could be gummed up inside, metering valve stuck, insufficient fuel flow to pump. If it hasn't been sitting, something is probably broken inside the pump and will need to be disassembled and inspected.
@nativeamericanhomestead99483 ай бұрын
I'm not gonna lie I have a disk but not a like you guys youre sinks in so good
@schafn3 ай бұрын
Maybe someone else has said this but... When you were adjusting the draft, etc. you were repeatedly measuring the 26.5" distance from the wall. As I was watching this part of the video I was saying to myself, just take a Sharpie and mark a line on the lift arm and a line on the top cover. Then you have an easy reference for when your lift arm is 0.5" from the bottom so you know it's in the right place for making the adjustments. You don't have to keep measuring the distance from the wall. That said, I have to add that this video was very, very helpful for me. I bought an 851 a few years ago and the main reason I wanted that tractor was because of the three point hitch. However, my three point has never worked right. It goes up and down just fine (or at least it did) but it wants to settle and jerk up, settle and jerk up, etc. I use a box scraper or back blade to grade my driveway and the way the 851's three point works makes the tractor useless for grading. I can't keep the implement at a constant point since it wants to sag all the time. Last year I rebuilt the top cover. By "rebuilt" I mean I replaced all the o-rings and the seals on the piston. It didn't make any differnce. After I did that I realized I'd forgotten the o-ring on the back pressure valve/check valve on the front of the cover. Last weekend I serviced that, put everything back together, and now I have no operation at all. I took things apart, checked this video to make sure I'd put things together right, and reassembled it. Still no lift. So I took the top cover completely off and now it is sitting on my bench waiting to be worked on. I think part of my previous problem with the sagging was that things were out of adustment. That will be part of the job this weekend. The other part will be looking for foreign matter that may have gotten into the cylinder assembly while I was working on the back pressure valve. I'm hoping I'll find something that will explain why I suddenly have no operation in the three point hitch.
@chickenhousemechanic3 ай бұрын
@schafn the sharpie mark would work great. Nice idea. I probably wouldntve done it on this one since it was fresh paint but one I was repairing sure. Usually that jumping like that is air in the system or fluid leaking passed a seal. My 861 did that for a while. It eventually stopped. As for the no operation your pump may have lost prime. Unscrewing the hex head plug at front of pump and running tractor until fluid comes out will prime system. If that doesn't fix it then something may be binding in the top cover. On some of those valve, like the unload valve, incorrect size o-rings can cause them to stick and lift not work properly.
@johnbuchel72204 ай бұрын
Great video. I got the pn seal kit like you showed. My pump problem is that when I start 861d the engine begins to race. To temp fix I shuttle the throttle back and forth. Engine finally slows down to normal. Hope I find out what's wrong in pump while resealing. Thanks.
@chickenhousemechanic4 ай бұрын
@@johnbuchel7220 sounds like the governor ring is broken. My 4000 would do that. The ring was completely gone.
@johnbuchel72204 ай бұрын
Thank you for your advice and knowledge. Can't wait to dig in
@johnbuchel72204 ай бұрын
and see if my ring is gone. Also my cup washers on shaft must be worn. Diesel is dripping out steadily out of the bottom of IP when I lift it off the cam drive gear. Tks.
@TheDrewCharles4 ай бұрын
Please enjoy this happy positive comment to tickle your I'm new to your channels so I'm not really up on it but I have seen the your previous videos and I think I'm going to keep watching so keep up the good work I'm loving it.😊
@realmongo75654 ай бұрын
That NDA7288A shifter seal crosses over to a SKF 6125.
@308dad84 ай бұрын
Done them on my 601 maybe 7-8 years ago. Need to break down and buy a set of drums and new shoes. Would improve braking.
@308dad84 ай бұрын
What’s the problem with excess free travel? Cars come with lots of free travel and clutches last as long as people don’t ride the pedal
@chickenhousemechanic4 ай бұрын
@@308dad8 there is no problem with excess free travel as long as clutch fully releases. Free travel is there to make sure clitch inst slipping from pedal being applied when released. Excess won't hurt anything at all.
@MrJackinthebox464 ай бұрын
How much fuel should shoot out??? Mine will start with a shot of starting fluid but won't stay running???
@chickenhousemechanic4 ай бұрын
@MrJackinthebox46 should have a solid stream maybe 3 inches long. Not sure of actual volume of fluid. Timing off could also cause it to not stay running since it runs off starter fluid.
@brianmiddleton8554 ай бұрын
SEACO seals you can get them in aluminum as well as stainless used in ac. Hydraulic and fuel.
@vincerohde4674 ай бұрын
Grew up on a 801 power master diesel, also had several of the fordson major series, still have the 801 and a power major in the family
@davidprentiss76674 ай бұрын
Hi Dave here ,I have a 64 ford 4000 I'm going to be selling it and trying to find someone who could educate me on price and what I have . So please is there an email that I can contact you ty dave
Where do you get the measurements for your feeler gauge? I have a 68 ford 4000 I am about to be adjusting the linkage on and want to get the measurements correct
@chickenhousemechanic5 ай бұрын
@levihitt8965 I found the measurements based off the factory tool listed in the service manual. Had to search on google for the exact measurements. They are probably different for the 68 model.
@philliphall51985 ай бұрын
I had to weld up my clutch shaft also and I had a bronze bushing made for padel and bored out for it 😊
@philliphall51985 ай бұрын
I’ve done this like 20 years ago on one of my tractors and need to do it again Need a really good pressure washing and degreaser 😊
@philliphall51985 ай бұрын
Need the cylinder kit numbers to rebuild mine 😊
@mecanicaparaprincipiantesy61745 ай бұрын
exelent information thank you very much
@VemDuvill5 ай бұрын
Super 😊
@danielgeorge27355 ай бұрын
In your video you state '' The large end of the spool valve and seal is to be installed on the cylinder end of valve". In my shop manual it reads to " Install the large seal journal end of the control valve pointing toward the sleeve and flange end of control valve" and this is the way I observed it as I was disassembling,,,, after new seals and reinstalling, on start up mine runs away turning to the left and hard turning back to the right. Comments
@chickenhousemechanic5 ай бұрын
@danielgeorge2735 Not sure what manual you are using. I have the red shop manual and it says "install a new seal at each end of the valve spool with cup side in. Make sure the seal with the largest I.D. is positioned at the cylinder end of the valve housing". This is how mine came apart. As for it turning to the left, mine did that as well. When I took it back apart the 1/8" pin broke on me and had slid out of it grove causing the valve to be pushed in the valve housing causing fluid to be pushed into the cylinder making the wheel turn. Once I replaced the pin, the wheels held straight. Didn't film any of that though.
@danielgeorge27355 ай бұрын
@@chickenhousemechanic Thanks for the reply,,,, I have a I&T manual I purchased from Tractor Supply. I know how after market manuals do get the wording wrong some times., I want to check. As the turning left on me,,,, I took it back a part yesterday before I read your reply,,, sure enough, the pin had slipped and was broken,,,,, once again Thanks for the reply and video.
@chickenhousemechanic5 ай бұрын
@danielgeorge2735 yeah I had an I&T manual for my 8n. I threw it away. Owners manual was more informative. When I started working on my 861 I bought the Ford service manual for it. Worth every penny. Glad you got it fixed. I know for me, when I cranked mine and it turned left I had a WTF moment. I was just glad it was an easy fix.