Thank you for the concise guidance this was extremely helpful!

On AF, you said to leave switching tracking subjects to one degree of stickiness, but you set it at zero, which confused me. Everyone else says leave it at one. What is the difference between zero and one?

Thanks for going to the trouble of making and sharing these set up guides. I've just bought the R100-500 as my 'next more serious birding lens (coming from a 100-400), and bought an R10 to use with it for the time being. (I'm betting Canon is more likely to give us an R7ii, which I'll likely get depending on how its reviewed). Your approach to button and dial set up makes a lot of sense and seems the most straightforward of the approaches described by KZbinrs. Best regards!

This is quite the video. A lot is covered beyond setup for back button focus which I was originally looking for. Is there a link to your first video, I’m not seeing it. Thank you for all the work. It would be nice to have an explanation on how to enable and disable the custom button menu setup. Finally figured it out though. Thank you for all your work. Take care.

I have seen so many of these videos on how to setup the R5 even had my camera set to many of them yours is the most comprehensive video I have seen Thank you so much for taking the time to make this video.

Nice. I have mine set totally different, but this just shows how versatile Canon's menus are. It's absolutely amazing how many ways you can set up these cameras based on your own style of shooting.

Well presented video, although I'm disappointed with the lack luster comparative test results you made judgement with, 1st round was not in optimal light, my question is why bother taking the shots to use in the video vs waiting till the lighting was good. 2nd round was inconsistent too with camera settings, and finally the 3rd round wasn't consistent in your testing. Honestly I would have preferred you to grab any object (coke can would have worked) on a clear sky day and shoot it from a tripod with the combinations you used at a variety of distances. I own the R5, RF 100-500 and 2x extender and have been most disappointed with the poor image quality, I'm playing around with all settings to get a decent image that I'd use. I can't believe how poorly the RF2x is, I'd love to try it out on a prime lens, I suspect the results would be much better. Anyhow I'd ask you to do the following as a follow up here. 50yards, 100yards, 200yards, 300yards, with the combos R5 + 100-500 and 800 + with no extender, with 1.4 and with 2.0. All the best.

Came across this video after my first real use of the R6II for some cyclocross, where I was slightly disappointed , even using single point focus but perhaps not turning off the auto detection didn't help! With triple back button autofocus like tou have described, am I right in thinking that the only button which then uses the eye/auto detect and making use of the dof toggle is the rectangle button?

Thank you for your TBBA-F suggestions which I will try out. I have been using BBF in a simple form for several years on my 5D mark iii and 7D mark ii and have just purchased an R6 mark ii. I am interested in the settings you use in the AF (1) menu to go with the triple BBA-F; specifically: AF Operation - Servo I assume Whole area tracking - on/off Eye detection - off/Auto/etc

low sharp of R5 MArk ii as compare my old eos R colur contrast aslo low not getting satified result old Eos R gives amazing Result as compare to new one .. is their problem in my camera body ..plz reply

just buy eos R5 mark ii doest hav sharpness and colour tone .. as campare to my old eos R can u tell me whts the problem in my camera i hav used all setting tried everything but didnt get satisfied result

I have a Mark III and I can't hear the IS motor at all. I also used to have a 300 f/4, and it sounded a bit like yours. It also had a jarring reset if you moved beyond the area the IS could cope with. I figured it was just older IS technology. I gave that lens to my daughter recently - not sure if she's using it. I wasn't using it because after I got the 100-400 Mark II it could do basically everything the 300 could do with sharper results, and it also had quiet IS.

I'm still in the early stages of watching this video, but I really like it so far. I have a very basic/oddball question for you about the postioning of settngs on the screen versus the actual location on the camera. Looking at the screen, the far left has the shutter speed and then next to it is the F-stop and then the far right has the ISO. The controls on the camera start at the top right front wheel (main dial) for the shutter speed and then to the back top (quick control dial 2) for the ISO and finally the F-stop on the back wheel (quick control dial 1). To me, that seems inconsistent with the flow on the screen (Shutter/F-stop/ISO) vs Shutter/ISO/F-stop on the physical camera. It has always fouled me up. I finally went in and changed the sequencing so that the quick control dial 2 is for the F-stop and the quick control dial 1 is for the ISO so they are in the same sequence as the screen. Does this change make sense to you or am I just being quirky? Note: I bought my first DSLR when I retired about 8 years ago and upgraded to mirroless 3 years ago when I bought the R6 Mrk I Thx

UPDATE: I shot the lens for two straight days (all day) and it works amazingly well. The pictures are tack sharp and I'm super happy. However, the noise is still loud at times. Interestingly, this morning, for about an hour, the lens was very quiet. Then, out of the blue, the noise started again. This morning another photographer had the same lens and his was very quite. This afternoon another photographer had the same lens and his made almost as much stabilization noise as mine-he said not to worry about it. Still leaning towards returning it for a refund and just hunt for another. I got that one for 6k including tax, so I hope I can find a good deal like that again. Thanks again for all you responses!

Perfectly normal

That’s loud and probably why it was in mod 3….. well what’s your next move? Bummer!

Mode 2 is the one to go with to shoot wildlife and moving subjects. Mode 3 will only engage when you half depress the shutter. Mine is loud too but little bit less then this I believe, and definitely nothing what would disturb wildlife

Mine is kind of loud too but not that loud. I have to check on mode 1 later again.

superb explanations and armed with this I can configure my camera the way I need. thank you for this much appreciated

Thank you for explaining so good!

Thanks for the detailed explanation. Question. I have the shutter set to start AF with one of the flex AF boxes. I have the "Start/Stop whole area AF tracking" on the set button. This works when I press shutter button half way and it tracks over the entire area. However, when I engage one of the back button AF buttons (single AF buttons) AF the whole area AF tracking stops working when I go back to the shutter. I have to re-engage it for it to start working again. This function seems temporary and have to be constantly reengaged to work. Is this normal? I noticed the "eye detect" setting actually turns the function on/off and remains on whichever setting you choose.

The video is very helpful. I was able to follow it to set up my new Canon R5 Mark II.

For the pre-capture - go to My Menu and add a tab that has Pre-Shooting, then you can easily go to my menu and disable , instead of looking for it in the other menus - I find this helpful

Hi- great video thanks: I need help: The Eye Detection on/off toggle custom-set DOF button does not do anything - which other setting do I maybe have wrong? I have spot focus on, no locked focus option. thanks.

Thank you so much for this video which has helped me a lot. Your work is incredible :)

This may sound like a beginner question, but here goes. I use triple back button focus. 1 is spot, 2 is eye detect. 3 is registered for quick action. I’ve not figured out how to set the AF Boxes. I can set a button and toggle them, but with bbf, as soon as I hit any back button to engage the new af box,, it goes to its button programming. I guess I’m used to focus button and shutter. How can I not only choose the Af box, but then engage it to focus, so I can hit the shutter. Suggestions?

Do you have any opinion to change or improvement of the experience with 300mm f2.8 is ii with R5 mark ii

I recommend to set Viewfinder Brightness balanced with the exposure. I have been fooled by setting viewfinder brightness too high then realize the replay of the image taken was underexposed. For me, the viewfinder's brightness should match the replay from the LCD. Additional exposure adjustments can be done in post.

Didn’t catch your name. Useful guidelines and very much appreciated.

Preview AF is likely for selfies to ensure the focus of the subject(s), but it should be set to OFF unless used for video AF.

Awesomeness👊🏿🔥🔥🔥

Excellent work, my friend. Important information carefully and precisely presented. Much appreciated…thank you.

Best Tutorial of R7 ever❤❤❤

Thank you so much for such an informative video!

God grant you health and good luck, that's how much time and patience it took you to tell and write everything down... I have never seen such a complete view of this camera from anyone ...I'm going to buy it too, but Canon promised and didn't come to us....waiting .....Have you tried a 100 mm Macro 2.8 - RF lens with this camera.... I want to use it for Macro photography and for high-quality portraits of Swallows in flight - at a distance of 1 m - 2 m...Thank you for everything... Good luck, Health and Patience...

Is there a way to change from C1 to C2 to C3 with the 3 buttons? For example, stationary bird C1 = eye detection on, spot metering, spot focus, shutter speed 1/500 sec, second button for bird in flight C2 = shutter speed 1/2000 sec, eye detection off, horizontal zone focus, electronic shutter, high frames per second, etc.

Thanks for the very helpful and detailed guide! Ive learnt a lot about the cameras various setting without having to wade through the manual. Also like that you gave a setup for non back button focusing as ive personally found BB focusing harder to use.

I got this camera yesterday and I'm really excited to go out and shoot today. Delayed due to storms in the UK this weekend. I've upgraded from a 5d mark II and I'm so used to back button focus I've configured the shutter button to meter only. So the Af on button is in the perfect place for me. Possibly they positioned it to allow back button focusers.

I have done some tests with x2 TC mk III on EF-100-400 II and EF-500/4.5. Using x2 teleconverter gives you always more detail/information. It can appear blurry, but still have more detail you can post process. The main problem is the x2 loss of speed what rises your iso and then you begin to lose information. When there are sufficient light to keep the iso low, x2 teleconverter rules. Well when you take picture of something that don't have details, you will not get benefice of the teleconverter. Example - the bird is too far away that even with a zoom x2 the sensor of the camera can't outresolve the plumage texture.

My Canon 400 f4 DO with the 1.4 adapter and the Sigma 111 is fantastic on my Sony A7RV, great AF, bird subject recognition of birds in flight. I have had the 400 DO for approx 12yrs and it never fails.

I think your experiment is somehow more of the semi scientific kind haha… But I enjoyed it nevertheless 😅👌🏽

Thank you for documenting this. Your valuable time, photography skills combined with the storytelling are much appreciated!

There was one hawk raised by eagles in Canada. The young hawk had other eaglets. They said the hawk would have been a meal for the eaglets but they were all well fed. The hawk has not seen after fully fledging from the nest.

At 1:02:00 can the front button set-up be done on the R5 mark0 ? I can't figure it out, yet I'm unsure how the front button set-up is to be used. On the R5 I have to hold in the back button for eye tracking while I hit the shutter.

honestly flexible af zones feels a bit gimicky

How do I get 'servo', out of the box it is set as M and I can't find how to change it to SERVO

isn't electronic shutter more noisy for image? if it is, what would be worce effect in dark, extra noise or shutter shock I am wondering

Do you think there is more dynamic range in 1st curtain electronic than in electronic shutter? Can you even notice it?

Thank to Olympus, we have “Pre-capture” mode from about 10 years ago, don’t forget that! Anyway, excellent tutorial!

several months I watched this fantastic video.. I learned the camera before owning my first R .. You made it So easy!! Top notch !! Thank you Very much