Thank You!! I'm in the process of restoring a MW 1943 model. I'm to the head stock cleaning. This video helped me.

Do you know how to make mossberg 590 magazine tube to frame threads

You shouldve just taken of the treads, placed your new uncut stringer against the side of one of the exisiting stringers and just traced it. Then you have the oppertunity to replace the nails in the stair treads with screws. 3 -4 hour job

I made a square cutting tool seven years ago for a magazine tube I had to thread at 1:12 tpi, but I don't recall putting any angle on the cutting tip. The tube has fairly loose tolerances, so maybe that's why I got away with it. I am about to modify another tube, so I watched your videos as a refresher. My only wish is that you had shown all the math needed to determine the angle in degrees. After a couple of hours of research I finally figured it out and realized you rounded up to the nearest whole number.

Great video. I recently bought the same lathe. What oil do you use in the head stock is it iso32. Thanks

I just did the electronic front and electronic/air rear shocks on my 2003 Yukon Denali. I used a jack and jack stands. With the Yukon on stands, the jack was used to support the axle and the control arms. I removed the wheels and the rear fender liners for better access in the back. For the fronts, the liner could be pushed out of the way. I used a pair of vise grips on the front shocks to keep them from spinning while removing the top 15mm nut. The jack was also very useful for compressing the front shocks so there were enough threads exposed to push the electronic connector on until it clicked into place. For anyone doing this job, the grey plastic portion of the front shock electronic connector rotates to release it from the shock. That was the only tricky part to figure out. Total time was about 2 hours. A shop quoted me $640 to do the job.

Great help!!!!!!!

Looks good. The only comment I have is to have longer bolts so you could add locking nuts. Thanks for the video

So helpful! Many thanks!!!

Good ❤❤❤❤❤❤

I believe the action is Rem model 30.S. Caliber could very well be a 375 H & H.

Great video! Excellent work. Very simple. How did it shoot?

Great to see a stock made by a person with "normal" tools! No belt sander, etc. What finish did you use on the stock?

How can I tell how old my 552 is

Roll up a piece of tape for the back side to hold it while you sand it

Thanks for making this video. Just picked one up from a pawn shop.

Never seen a barrel where the OD ran true with the bore. Your thread relief groove is way to wide, A 5/8-24 thread should be 5/8 long, not 1/2. then you would not need to shorten your thread protector. My 2 cents.

So, what ever happened with the action?

Nice job bringing an old gun back to life! I've had some luck using a clear cyanoacrylate and mixing it with the sanding dust from the wood. It still won't be a perfect match to the original but it's pretty close. The sanding dust doesn't seem to interfere with the accelerant.

What kind of chuck are you using to hold the barrel?

looks like a great machine, how much did you pay?

How about heat melting the tape ?

I LOVE THAT RATCHET!!!!

The ways are gorgeous on that!!!! I have a 5914 and love it. Its the lathe I learned on in HS.

What if a guy has some minor scratches in the clear or even small chips in the clear but the wood is ok. Can I do anything to remedy the eyesore? On a rem 700 bdl with the gloss finish

I have a SB 11”. Wondering what does the L refer to also a Heavy 10. Thanks

Wouldn't it have been better to cut the threads at the correct length, instead of cutting the thread protector? Most threads are long enough to put a lock nut and some even come with a spacer washer. Now it's so short that only has option for one style device. Even my 10mm pistol comes with longer thread's.

Where did you get the grey body to apply to the end of the barrel? Part # and or fitting.

May i ask what quick change tool post are you using ? and did you need to modify anything to put it on ?

Camfor?

This is helpful. I have a heavy 10 L and I can’t remove the handle. Taper pin is out. Back gear is still installed. All I want to do is clean it. So I’ll try tapping from the front. Thanks.

This is great! You are so correct in that it can be nerve wracking if you've never doe it. Watching you was a real game changer for me. Thank you!

Thank you !!!

So what did you do on the back end of the headstock?

If you're still monitoring your video: what are the x, y, and max quill travel please? Max DA collet size? Machine weight? Can't find specs on this ancient unit... they're pretty well made but likely too limited in quill and collet specs for me...

Great video . Thank you ! This helped me a bunch!

Thanks for the info....-gunsmithing student

Don’t give up your day job!

Thanks, I received my 552 BDL in 1985 as a birthday gift from my wife. It hasn't been shot very much and I've never taken it apart to clean it. I watched a couple other videos before finding yours. Yours made the process the simplest to take down and put back together.

Thank you

Really nice lathe. I have a 1968 10L and it’s in good shape but needs cleaning. I can’t get the taper pin out of the taper attachment (where the lockdown lever is). Do you have any suggestions on how to remove a stubborn taper pin? Thanks, Paul

How good is a sqar if barrel is tapered???

The easiest way which also generates the least amount of dust is to use a diamond blade into your multi tool and slice through plaster and lath simultaneously. The diamond blades last a lot longer than any other blades you can use.

Excellent approach. This is just what I need to move my bathroom fan. Previous owners put sheetrock right on top of the lath and plaster, so I have to go through all three layers to cut my opening.

looking to buy one of these for my son and i to learn. what's do think is a good price for a decent one?? (without a bunch of extra tooling)

Good video. Thanks. Harbor freight tool for the win, as usual. I am putting mine on today. On another note, they are opening a new Harbor Freight right near my house. I will soon be homeless so this is my last youtube comment. LOL Hope youre still well these days.

Honestly I know little about woodworking, and even less about gunsmithing, but i know attention to detail , it comes along with my OCD. I can appreciate that type of effort, and most importantly the dedication to see something like that through to the end. That was amazing to watch. You are indeed a master at your craft, much respect. And thank you KZbin for having an algorithm with some damn taste! Glad this one popped up.

Nice repair, I need to do this with a rifle I inherited from my grandfather. Thanks again for this.

Nice project. I like the cocoa idea. A better color match might be coffee ground super fine for espresso - - I have used that with super glue on both walnut and sassafras and gotten pretty much invisible results. If you don't have espresso around, maybe a coffee shop would sell you a couple tablespoons to try out.

Disagree,, the the bolt head holds the round tight to it, so the primer is slowing and stopping the pin. As you showed it the pin would go right through the primer