I don't work on epson anymore. Not remotely worth repairing these. The parts are not available and epson wont provide any service info. Im sorry.

That is a color wheel issue 100% but the cause of the issue can vary. Have you replaced the lamp recently and if so, was it from amazon? Cheap lamps have the wrong IR filter and flood the color wheel with IR light confusing the sensor and cause this issue. If the problem started with the same lamp and it used to be okay, then your color wheel is failing from age.

Sounds like the lamp is bad. That is what the red lamp light means.

Id go back over your work. if it was operating before you cleaned it, then you might have missed a wire. Which one I dont know but its not uncommon. I would just go back over what you did and I suspect you will find it. Also be sure to install the lamp door or the safety switch will not activate.

If it is just the IR sensor itself, they are fairly jelly-bean type parts. Any 3 leg IR receiver will work. It may require soldering to replace but its not that hard. did you try pointing the remote at a phone camera and see if you can notice the IR LED flashing? Its seems odd to lose an IR receiver. I also think this model has more than one IR receiver so even if one is bad the other should work. Id be more suspicious of the remote myself.How was this diagnosed? I just think its very very very rare for an IR receiver to fail. I don't think in 30+ years of electronics repair that I can recall seeing a bad one.

@FixitFrank Yeah all the buttons flashed the IR signal on the camera. I didn't think about the amount of IR receivers on the projector. It does have 2 or 3 I think, one on the front and one on the back and I think one on the top.... didn't occur to me. I guess I'll buy a new controller first and see if that fixes it. I could always return it if it doesn't. Any place you recommend I buy the controller?? from???

If its for a 2050, ebay is fine. I'd try new batteries in your remote first(you probably already have). Also check the menu in the projector. Sometimes they have a remote option for disabling the IR. While I dont think this model does its worth checking. Skimming my video, it looks like this might only have one IR sensor in the front. I'd pop the top off and check the wire and make sure its not loose. I know I said this but its just really unusual for an IR sensor to fail. I'll keep monitoring this thread. If you are in the usa, I have some scrap parts around and if you can solder, Im sure one will work for you.

It pains me everytime I answer this. The only way to test for sure is with a working projector. Arc lamps can't be tested effectively with a meter. If your old lamp is older, has over 1000 hours or is the original lamp, replace it. But buy it from someone who has a return policy. DONT BUY ON AMAZON. They let bottom feeder trash get listed in potentially real listings. I have repaired so many projectors that were damaged by cheap lamps. The lamp is the first thing I try when I run into situations like yours. It's the most common part to fail. The folks I listed in the link are reputable and the price is reasonable. If you want to shop around, just make sure you don't spend under $80-ish. Anything under that is most likely a fake/counterfeit/knock off. I know what the bare bulb and housings cost and they just can't be sold for much less than $100 and still make any level of profit. In my experience, Pureland, MyProjectorlamps and BHPhoto are some of the only reliable companies selling lamps. Jaspertronics makes up so much nonsense and essentially lies about their items. The stuff on amazon is just a gamble. Not worth it when you have a two thousand dollar plus projector. Now if it still doesn't start with a new lamp, then voltage troubleshooting is needed(as long as your color wheel is spinning up). But start with a new known good lamp unless you know someone else with the same projector and you can try your lamp in theirs. Good luck!

@FixitFrank Thanks for the advice! New bulb gets here from pureland supply tomorrow.

Sweet! If it doesn't work, contact the support email with pureland.

Now we have a blinking red lamp light. Lamp chamber is sealed up, happens with new bulb and old

It sounds like the color wheel isn't running or isn't being sensed. Most hd20s are on wheel two or three by now. But do me a favor and contact the support email at pureland. [email protected]

Yeah id leave well enough alone. The fact that it's still working (Epson is notoriously common to fail after five to seven years) I'd run it in high altitude mode instead of opening it up. I won't even work on Epson anymore due to how they are so poorly designed for longevity. You stand to cause more problems than you will solve. I'd run a vacuum around the vents on the outside and then set it to high altitude mode. Then when it gets worse, replace it with a Sony or JVC.

@@FixitFrank I am at high altitude (7500 feet) so it's likely it was set that way when it was installed but I will definitely check and set it to that if it is not. Thanks so much for the response and the advice!

Anna Hello, I suspect the Sony may be better. The LCOS has very high sharpness compared to LCD. I still own this dVision 30 XL and I find setting the color is far more difficult. It also depends on the lens that is paired with the unit. I will say the dVision is a very very nice projector but it requires more intricate setup in my opinion. It is much brighter than the Sony but in a dark room, the brightness is not as much of a problem. If I was unable to try the dvision without giving up the sony, it would be worth investigating. But if I had to give up my Sony without seeing the other projector first, there are too many unknowns to be confident that it would be better. The dvision is a better projector but it requires a lot of space. it is physically quite a bit larger than the Sony and it requires 2 lamps instead of one. I think in the right enviroment and with the right lens, the dvision could be better but for a normal sized home, I think the dvision is massive overkill. If you can convince the owner to let you try the dVision first, that would be ideal but if not, I would caution against it. I could be wrong so please take all of what I said with a grain of salt. Thank you for your question!

@@FixitFrank Thanks a lot

It's a fan problem. The fan might be spinning up to speed too slowly or it's dragging until it gets really moving. I don't know which fan it is but that's almost always the cause of that error when it displays immediately. If you had a lamp burst at some point in the past, glass might be jamming the blower fan. Otherwise I'd start checking fans

@@FixitFrank Hi Thanks for the quick reply ;D It actually had a lamp change in June and it did burst so looks like i'm opening it up then...Anything i need to be aware of or just take my time and use the video guide UPDATE Just took off cover and removed the first ribbon and now won't boot up..when i press the remote it just sort of clicks like tapping your nail on metal kind of thing...actually sounds like an car indicator ...click clack? UPDATE OK now dismantled, cleaned and reassembled - Now is turning on - the small fan isn't moving - I have power on green light - boot up - There's an on off "whirring" noise on off for about 2 seconds then big fan kicks in - Unit goes off and red and orange lights flash - This all takes about 15 seconds? PS no light comes from bulb. FYI when cleaning, I did remove the colour wheel exactly as you said and removed, cleaned and replaced the sensor, again very carefully with a very soft brush as it was VERY dusty. I also removed, cleaned and refitted the small fan as well. The whirring noise i think is the colour wheel so not sure if i have damaged something as that wasn't there before?

Lamp cover has to be in place or it won't boot up. It's a safety feature. Fully assemble everything and I bet it runs. Of not just double check all your wires and connectors.

@@FixitFrank I dismantled and reassembled and voila - now working fine so maybe a loose connector issue - So far so good and can't thanks you enough for your help ;)

It was already dead by the time I got to this point. but I like the way you think. I'll keep this in mind...

Sure but I need to ask what sort of problem you are having? Certain issues are not worth the money. If hate to have you go through the cost of shipping only to find out it's not worth it.

Nice job

If it tries to start, then errors to the 2 LEDs then the lamp is unable to ignite(or a color wheel failed). If its the lamp, pull it out and look inside the reflector and see if the glass tube is intact. If so, you can try tapping it firmly against a table, almost hard enough that you might break it. That can sometimes shake some of the scale off the arc points inside the arc tube. Its a janky unreliable fix. Its probably new lamp time. They are around $150 for a decent quality. Just stay away from the trash sold on amazon. They make lots of lofty claims and the dead projector pile I have says otherwise to their quality. something else to consider. this is an OLD projector. It may be more cost effective to invest in a newer laser/solid state unit. If funds are a problem, even used lamp based projectors on ebay are around $150-200 for something working and slightly newer than the Mitsi. Hopefully this gives you some direction. Feel free to follow up if you have other questions.

@ Thank you for the help Frank, funnily enough I actually watched your XD500U video and thought I’d try the lamp life reset before possibly damaging it any further, was worth a shot, and it worked! Not sure for how long, but it displays and works fine currently. Thankyou for your help mate, I really appreciate it.

Ah, so it was out of time. yes the lamp will continue to work but I would replace it soon. If it ruptures inside, it can really damage things. Thats why they use the timer. Not that they think the lamp wont light but that the lamp is nearing the point where it will crack and burst. I doubt its imminently going to burst, but it will sneak up on you.

Being that this is an LCD, it is likely a problem with the LCD optics. either one of the 2 polarizers per color, or possibly dust on the panels. If you clean it, use non contact methods only(vacuum /compressed air). Any touching of the polarizers or panels, will damage them. If you must physically touch them, use a photo brush and no water or chemicals. If the polarizer is bad, it is not economic to replace. You need to change all 6 if even one is bad or the colors will never be right. That is a problem with LCD. Newer DLP has better color wheels that do not have the color flicker effect that was more common with old DLP. good luck!

@ Thank you for your advice Frank!

Glad I could help!

Which of the numerous problems are you referring to?

Double check your wires. I suspect you swapped something. I have seen it happen. Most of the time they make the connectors to only fit in one place but I have seen wires swapped in these that will cause this. If any of them seem oddly stretched, start there. here is the service manual with wiring. elektrotanya.com/viewsonic_pro8200_sm_1a.pdf/download.html (free download, the website looks sketchy but its totally safe) page 17 has a pic of the wires. Double check the colors against the manual.

For what its worth, they are all basically "compatible". It's pretty hard to mess up a color wheel. I've only had issues with one common ebay seller that sounds like 'campbook'. Otherwise you are pretty safe if you stick to the mid to higher priced options(to make sure it's not a recycled wheel). I use a company out of china called Time electronics ([email protected]) but if you rather buy stateside, check with voltarea.com or anyone with a half decent return policy.

@@FixitFrank Frank thanks so much for your quick response. Am i correct that the w2700 color wheel is the same part for the ht3550? Having trouble finding anything specifically for the 3550 on ebay that isnt from the campbook seller

I am not sure. The colors might be in the same order but the index mark might be on the wrong side. I'd reach out to Time electronics. They are good. They take paypal and ship DHL. If you want to reach out to me at work, just send an email to support@ the company I am linking for the lamp in the description. sorry to be so cryptic but I got too many emails when I had a public email listed. I might be able to get one here from Time and save you the shipping hassle.

@FixitFrank unfortunately time electronics was going to take up to 3 weeks for delivery and was nearly $90 with shipping and dhl fees. I did reach out to Voltarea via their ebay shop and they had one in spec matching the dimension and hub/encoder mark on mine and should be here within a week. Thansk for pointing me in the right direction!

Nice! Alex is a good guy. I'm glad he could help. If it doesn't work out, let me know.

This is not true. If a projector is overheating, it is suffering from a very specific set of symptoms. The thermal fuse will trip and shut the unit right off without warning and will stay off until it cool. Or if it has fan failure the temp warning will flash. None of those symptoms would have a specific smell associated. The smell could be loose dust burning against the lamp. It could be plastic off gassing, it could be a bug that got inside and is being roasted by the lamp. Merely assuming a smell means overheating is over simplifying to the point to where there is no reasonable diagnosis. Its how people end up wasting time and money on a simple repair and end up with a damaged projector. Always verify the root cause BEFORE deciding on a failure mode. My 30+ years in electronic repair have reinforced that fact.

the ballast is a one off made by rubicon. It uses an integrated mosfet pack. $$$$ of you can find it. Thats why I replaced it. The ballast was $300-400,and the mosfet pack was $150-200 at the time. I have not looked recently. Maybe its less now.

@FixitFrank hopefully mine isn't! If it is, I guess I'll look for the model you used 👍

hi, when you say they shut down, do they die completely? Does the power led go off too? They have a thermal circuit breaker mounted on the blower fan housing. If that overheats, the mains power is cut until the breaker cools and self resets. If that is the case, your issue sounds thermal. check the lamp blower fan for being clogged or not rotating. if you had an old lamp explode at some point, the glass gets thrown into the fan and can jam it. the projectors heats up before the fan is called to turn on and then it overheats and resets. Otherwise you would get a thermal warning on the temp LED. Good luck!

@FixitFrank yeah I know, I withdrawned it further in a place where it does not heat and the issue is still going on. No led nor nothing, its seems like the main power is cut off like you said. Don't you think it could be the power supply ? Thanks again.

@@FixitFrank I need to admit that it seems a temperature issue, when i turn it on after a while and in a cold room it seems to take up to 2min for it to turn die. Do you know where I can check all the thermo-electronics elements ? The blower fan work properly. Thanks you.

If its cutting right off, you have a fan problem. Even if its spinning it might not be spinning properly or the fan blades have started to deform on the edges. They will still spin but they won't move air efficiently. You may even want to check the service menu to see the fan speeds. It sounds like you have enough time to check. I think its the same as the others. Press menu, then press both source and enter at the same time. you should get some boxes. I think box 4 has the fan info. If you want to take the gamble, buy a new blower fan and exhaust fan for one of these and see if it fixes it. Only do that if you are okay with potentially buying parts you might not need. I'm guessing you are not in the USA, but if you are and want to send one my way , we can discuss it. also if you want to talk off youtube email support@ the company I have listed for the replacement lamp. the email goes right to me.

I suspect you got a bum wheel or a wheel with the wrong index mark location. compare the old wheel to the new wheel and make sure the little black mark is at the same color segment. Usually its the blue segment but not always.

I meant to reply to you last week. This is awesome information! I love it when people like you who really have a passion for these specific devices comment with such great info. I appreciate most electronics to at least a surface level so getting to hear more in depth info is always awesome in my opinion. Thank you so much for taking the time!

Hey bud. I got your message. I need to upload the DVD. I have some stuff going on but I will get in touch probably right after the new year.

@@FixitFrank Hi. Have you uploaded Harvest movie?

Agreed. I'd like to see about hacking them wirelessly again but the fact that they are so cheap, this is just easier.

lmao, using it right now. thanks for the engagement stats!

Why are you sorry? And why did you sit for twelve mins? People like you crack me up. Angry over a video. Sad existence.

@@FixitFrank I said I'm sorry because I was being kind and giving my honest opinion. Do I really have to say I liked what I just watched? It was a terrible click bait uninformed video plain and simple. And I was trying to help you, this is not a good way to get viewers at all. have a nice day man.

LMAO! how is that helping? You are clearly in the absolute minority going by the other comments, (including my own opinion) so your unsolicited "advice" is received just as well. I'm sorry to say. ;) cheers!

looking at a picture of the IR board, it looks like pin 3 is not doing anything. It looks like Pin1-ground, Pin2 is Vcc or Signal, Pin3 is not used, Pin4 is Vcc or Signal. Unless there is a thermistor on the other side I can only see the connector side in the picture I found. I would not go by colors either. I have found most color wheel sensors are black/red/white and many times white is ground and red is signal and black is Vcc.

I can't seem to find one. What is your issue?

Are you sure its a G? NEC doesn't list a G suffix part number. There is a VE281 and VE281X. No VE281G. If it looks like this one, and its NEC, it's probably the same.

cheap amazon lamps can cause it too. if they don't have the right IR filter on the housing it will act like a color wheel issue.

@@FixitFrankit's flickering red blue quickly which is odd

it can do all sorts of thing like that. I wouldn't get too hung up on the specific color pattern. If you replaced the lamp recently (with a cheaper lamp from amazon or jaspertronics) and then the issue started, its likely the lamp. If it was doing this with the old lamp, then it's more likely color wheel related(dirty sensor, failing motor).

It's possible but it depends on your skill level and how comfortable with tools and working on electronics. It's not super easy to work on these models. You could damage the cables easily. It's not as hard as some repairs but it's far from trivial. I would rate it at a 7 or 8 out of 10 on the difficulty scale. You have to remove the whole optic assembly and get it all back together. That said, if it's already broken, you don't have much to lose. The wheel can be purchased if you contact the parts people at [email protected]. they ship worldwide and are very reliable.

I don't understand your question. what are you asking? which product?

How u repair pioneer...wat things u use?

its far too expensive to ship here. I would look for someone local and have the phosphor wheel looked at.

​@@FixitFrank Do tricolor projectors use phosphor wheel?

It depends on the brand model. It seems like a lot do. The issue seems to be green. Getting the right green doesn't seem to be an option with the solid state source(LED, laser diode) so they use a UV laser or LED and then excite the phosphor wheel for the green. then other models that use white, have a UV source and white phosphor. I suspect there are exceptions but probably not many. I also think that will change as technology advances.

@@FixitFrank This is in the pure technical realm. Mere mortals like me aren't meant to understand this. I am totally lost.

I only communicate here. I do not talk to people off KZbin.

It’s the same as EH-TW3800W . And also look like the same as 5040ub

Please I need guide man . Answer as soon as possible.

hard to say what's causing it but being that its an epson, you don't have many options aside from throwing it in the trash or paying epson double the price of the projector for a repair. Epson will not sell parts or share service info unless you are an authorized service center. I've had nothing but trouble with them and I won't even take them in for repair anymore. Even if you find the problem, buying the parts you need is impossible. I am not a fan of epson at all. I'm sorry I dont have better news. Id buy a Sony.

@@FixitFrank I will definitely take your advice and buy Sony But I would like also to fix this one , where can I get board ? .. guide me please

@@FixitFrank Subscribed ✅

I'm sorry, I know what part you mean. I looked at my Dyson and am not sure myself. You might want to try using a second vacuum and use it to suck the debris out the hose from the intake side. A shop vac might have enough force to dislodge the debris. I can't promise to make a new video soon but I will definitely keep this in mind. My Dyson is about due for another deep cleaning. Thanks for the comment!

It's probably not worth it. Getting parts for these is incredibly hard. If I were you, I'd check the fuse. If it's bad, try a new fuse. If that fails, time to scrap it.

@ thanks!

Please give me your honest opinion , because it’s expensive projector

hard to say. I don't work on epson anymore. They are a waste of my time to repair. Epson wont sell parts or share service info and the way the construct them, it seems like they want them to break and not be repairable. If I had to guess, I would suspect a mainboard failure in your case(without seeing it that is my best guess). Mainboards usually cost more than the projector. Id recommend staying as far away from epson as possible when it comes to projectors. I can't stand them because of how poorly engineered they are for longevity.

my honest opinion is that you'd be better off buying a Sony, jvc, sim2, or Panasonic.

You're welcome! I hope your projector runs wonderfully!

Its more likely something with the power supply. I have seen this a few times and it's either a power supply or possibly a mainboard issue. The laser is controlled by a complex switching supply. It shines on a phosphor wheel/color wheel combo to make the color and the DLP chip makes the image. There is a chance the DLP chip isn't being controlled by the mainboard but it's impossible to say which section is the issue. Personally I hear a lot about these failing these days. I don't know if its worth the cost of shipping to me to look at it. I am on the east coast so that is a heck of a shipping bill. I used to like these a lot more but I am seeing the shortcomings in their design. The light engine is a very old Appotronics design that has been replaced 4 or 5 versions (maybe more) by now. If you can't find someone on one of the islands to work on it, I would look at something else. The folks at Projectorscreen.com just put out a video on some new really nice options that are likely made far better than the vava. Id check their channel and see what they have.

Hi! that is a really interesting idea. I am assuming you mean the new Pro model? with the silver ring? I have one and I agree the noise is annoying. The button click not so much but I like the silent button idea. eu.onetimesecret.com/secret/288n65m10bz7muropyqlfxcxrg4gkun this is a one time link. Use that to get in touch and we can go from there. I am very interested in helping you.

Possibly the polarizers. Without in front of me, I can't say for sure, but they do fail commonly. Yes you don't want to touch any surface in the LCD area. Handle them by the edges. Not even with gloves on. As far as where to get them, it's in the description and I mention it in the video. good luck with it!

Thank you! I Will send an email! If i find which One (probably green if It looks Yellow) cleaning It maybe i Will see a small difference tò understand if It Is the polarized. Anyway, Just cleaning in dry way , right? No water or something other stuffs ​@@FixitFrank

@@FixitFrank i finish now, i tried lot of clean, but 2 lens were very bad! so now i tried to clean and i see in a part little bit red tint, in the rest yellow tint, i think the polarize lens are the problem :(

@@FixitFrank the other issue i found is a ghost effect on blue, i notice lot u blu in the background and ghosting effects

@@FixitFrank hi again, today, i i discover that the yellow tint is not caused by the poralizer, i left it for few minutes, so, at this point i'm not sure where the problem starts, can be the lamp?

Anything else in the power stream. Power switch, thermostat, high limit cut off, heating element etc. Get your multimeter, set it to ohms, and start at the hot end and work your way towards the neutral and when the resistance jumps high or infinite, you found your spot. Personally, if its not the tilt switch, or the power switch, I wouldn't bother with anything else. I'd cut the cord and scrap it. the rest of the parts are not worth dealing with in my opinion.

@FixitFrank I will check it all thank you

I don't post my email publicly (I can't handle the volume) but yes. Contact the support email of the company in the link. It'll get to me. I'll reply from there