Using the included Y cable for the fans - plugged into the CPU Fan header on the motherboard. Didn’t notice any strange smell though… what does yours smell like? Can you describe the smell?

It is a bit feeble. But mine is still boxed up. I liked the Diablo III limited edition more.

Thanks!

If you're saying 'read the manual' then you've probably not seen a Lian Li manual recently. 😁 There's not much to actually read. Most of their manual is schematics rather than anything step by step. I tend to think that if a product is designed well then the manual should be a reference thing rather than instructions. Note that some people might have problems with manuals and prefer something more visual to explain things. Also, in more general terms, a computer case should be relatively intuitive to use if it's been designed well enough - The CoolerMaster Qube 500 is one exeption. It's very well designed, but you definitely need to read the manual for that case because it comes flat packed. CoolerMaster realise that and the Qube manual is really good - very easy to follow. See my video about it for more details.

Glad I could help.

For the computer in the video, the error the crashes happened at any time - which made diagnosis harder as it was unpredictable. But… updating the BIOS fixed it. So try updating the BIOS on your computer if you’re getting this error. Note that overheating can also cause this issue so I would see what CPU cooler is in your PC and then run CPUID HWMonitor and Prime95 to check the load temps. If you only get this when gaming then that might be a factor. So check the temps first.

The ‘B’ series boards are meant for business and don’t have RAM profile options that run at speeds higher than the native speed of the CPU. So you’ve not missed the XMP setting… because it’s not there to find. 😟

@@sterntechdaddythank you

I have that on my WindowsToGo USB that I use for repairs… but there’s usually a good reason why you shouldn’t tweak the folder permissions. 😜

It’s fixable on this model… but HP are a nightmare for preinstalled junk - which is why I avoid them. Except when a customer drops one in of course. 🙂

Glad it helped.

Change the input option to Headset - it's probably on Headphones. Headset gives the mic.

Depends on the CPU you're using. For Ryzen 7 this is 6000MHz. So you go to your trusted parts shop and filter for 6000Mhz. Then pick the RAM from the list based on height. Usually the LED bling models are taller so it should be easy to spot the low profile sticks. Once you've chosen some you can double check the height by searching for the product specifications on the manufactures web site. You should also compare that to the RAM clearance the cooler you're using an air cooler and not an AiO.

What CPU did you upgrade it to? It might produce more heat than the original. And the thermal interface between the CPU and the cooling assembly might have deteriorated. If this happened as soon as you upgraded then the CPU you've put in might get too hot for the cooling to handle - even if the socket and motherboard support it. If your upgrade was working, but now isn't then it'll be the thermal paste/pads. I would try lowering the max CPU usage right down to see if that makes it stable - it you get time to change the setting before it crashes Try 20% and see what happens. If it's stable then it's a cooling issue - which s what this video is about. :)

@@sterntechdaddy the qx9300. i highly doubt its overheating because of how quick the problem happens. usually i’m unable to lower the power because of how quickly it turns off. officially there were qosmio models that had that processor. i also put in thermal paste

The CPU you replaced has the same TDP as the one you put in - according to the Intel data sheets. But this video isn't really expected to help with any other laptop apart from the one featured in it. The fix I did works for the model featured - I was very please about that. So pleased, in fact, that I made a video about it. There's also this video - which features another model of Qosmio. kzbin.info/www/bejne/baSUaGOKgpJ-Zrs It's quite painful to listen to because I didn't have a proper mic then. Does yours stay on when in Safe Mode? :)

@@sterntechdaddy doesn’t stay on in safe mode either. i’m scared to but i’ll have to redo my disassembly and reassembly again :/

It's not a software issue then... which means... its likely to be a hardware thing. Unfortunately. When did you swap the CPU over? If it was OK before doing that, but the problem started when you did it then that's an obvious clue. But if you swapped the CPU over a while ago and it was working until recently then that still points to a problem with the CPU upgrade. I'm guessing it still does it with the battery removed?

I can’t predict the future… but as long as AMD don’t change the socket it should be good for upgrades. The only time you need to upgrade is when the OC stops being able to do what you want it to do. In fairness… the PC will probably break before that happens. The 7800X3D is a great processor. The trick is to match it with appropriate RAM and a GPU that’s the best match for the resolution you want to game at. 🙂

same for spectrum cycling of that matter

Any FPS above 25 looks smooth to the human brain. Some cartoons give you a headache because between 13 FPS and 25 FPS your brain does extra work filling in the gaps between frames to make things smooth - because that's how it expects to see the world. So it's natural to assume that the higher the FPS the smoother things will be and for shooter games, the higher the FPS means the game is more accurate when you're shooting at something. I doubt anyone will notice that except at the very highest levels of competitive play - where they introduce factors that limit this effect so the players skill is actually on test rather than the PC they are using. I've found that ARGB lights don't work like that. The higher FPS settings in OpenRGB don't always mean a smoother animation. The LED's can't always respond fast enough to the higher speed and they aren't smooth. So give the FPS setting a tweak and see if there's a value that makes the LED's smooth.

@@sterntechdaddy it seems like it dosnt matter if I put 1fps or 60fps. It might be broken, I've had so much issues with the Corsair ram recently. Even with Icue it keeps freezing.

Hmm... if everything else works and there's a problem with iCUE too then that might indicate something is wrong with the RAM. But... you don't need iCUE running to use the RAM with OpenRGB - so maybe iCUE is conflicting if they are both running at the same time. The PC in the video is my own computer - it's not using iCUE or Armory Crate (the motherboard is ASUS). OpenRGB is going the main syncing for all the fans, RAM GPU and my mouse. NZXT CAM is handling the pump screen and rad fans. Lian Li Open L Connect 3 is running for the fan curves - with the fan RGB turned off so the motherboard header controls it. Logitecg G Hub is running for my mouse - but the RGB is syncing with OpenRGB too. Which I wasn't expecting. My Steel Series keyboard is just set to white and doesn't get detected - the GG software for that is installed, but doesn't run on boot. Try removing iCUE if the RAM is the only Corsair product you've got.

Yes, but to be clear… the Lian Li fans are all using a single Lian Li controller and that has a single ARGB cable. The motherboard header has an ARGB splitter and all the ARGB cables are connected to that. So one motherboard header is used for everything.

Probably… you can check a few file dates to see if anything has been replaced at the same time it stopped working. OpenRGB has improved a lot since I made this video though - might be worth a try. Just remove all traces of what’s installed before you play with it though.

Don’t worry… the CPU support list says that the 7700 has been supported since the F1 version of the BIOS. www.gigabyte.com/Ajax/SupportFunction/Getcpulist?Type=Product&Value=9234 🙂

Sou do Brasil tbm e vendi meu antigo pc, am4 pra migra pro am5 usando tudo novo de gabinete a monitor teclado e tals, ia paga uma x670e plus mas 2k numa placa mãe e foda aí optei por esse modelo por e vou usa num 7700x Comprei um H7 elite d gabinete Usarei esse modelo igual Ax v2.. Ryzen 7 7700x DDR5 Dominator titanium corsair 32gb Ssd 1tb xpg s70 blade Fonte to vendo uma de 1000w pq ainda vou por a placa de vídeo futuramente já q o 7700x tem um vídeo integrado então quero uma fonte boa e barata nos seus mil reais

@@sterntechdaddy Thx!!!

Yup. 🙂

I use an Atomos NINJA V plugged into the HDMI output using the wireless HDMI dongle I've reviewed. They don't make the NINJA V anymore though - it's been replaced by the NINJA and NINJA ULTRA but mine has the OS upgrade. It's a great device and records the screen perfectly. Most laptops send a signal to the HDMI output independently of Windows when a display device is connected - by default this is a clone of the main screen - so the NINJA is the cheapest way of getting perfect recordings from anything with HDMI output. :)

Thx

Try pressing Shift and F10. If the command prompt appears then type OOBE\BYPASSNRO and press return. Hopefully that will restart the setup at the choose a network point.

Probably not… Synapse doesn’t generally play well with other RGB systems. 😕 OpenRGB might help, but I don’t own any Razer products to test with.

Interesting… I’ve seen it a lot recently as I’ve had a few HP laptops in for repairs. I would suggest turning off the automatic driver update in Windows Update just in case the touchpad driver adds this service.

I haven’t tested this with any Intel processors. It should work though - on stock settings. The first RAM slot is clear - assuming the RAM isn’t ridiculously tall. 🙂

Interesting… I’ll take a look. I’ve never had any problems with the Lian Li stuff though.

@@sterntechdaddy ya the Nollie controller solve your problem that you didn’t even know you had

To be fair, if it was a problem then I probably would know I had it. 😂

What temps are you getting under load? It’ll be interesting to see if the fluid level has reduced too, but this Thermalright cooler should be great value.

@@sterntechdaddy about 80c

That's OK, but replacing it before it breaks might be a good idea if it's 4 years old. 😊

I realise the LED's are facing the rear of the case in this orientation and that's part of the reason I disconnected them. The main reason was that the area that lights up on each fan is pretty small - just an arc in each corner. Pretty underwhelming - especially compared to all the other fans in this system. It just didn't look right. I did get them to work though... they were daisy chained and fitted to one header. The other header has the main Lian Li fans on it. via their controller aRGB cable. EDIT: Have you checked the BIOS of your motherboard to make sure its the latest version? That might help the LED's work. Assuming you've got no other aRGB devices connected and working.

@@sterntechdaddy I guess it's a fairly cheap cooler and I don't really care about RGB (I have them off and if they never turn on, I'll still at night). So, I'm not expecting much. But yes, it's a very small LED strip. I'm on the latest BIOS version but I think I have to look. Maybe the header is disabled or something. It should light up when plugged in. The only other RGB I have is through my GPU which is working but that's it's own dedicated slot.

Are you using the GCC? www.gigabyte.com/Consumer/Software/GIGABYTE-Control-Center/global/ If your GPU is a Gigabyte then that can be used to control all the LED's in the PC - but it should be able to handle the aRGB headers.

@@sterntechdaddy I haven't installed the software as I haven't needed it but I may try it to make the RGB adjustments. Thanks for the suggestion!

You can also try OpenRGB too - that's less bloat - but if your GPU is Gigabyte and its got RGB on it then GCC is an easier solution.

Glad it was helpful!

😳 That’s not great news to hear… we’ll keep an eye on this card and see what happens.

@@sterntechdaddy They still work 100% fine no big deal,they just get high hotspot temperatures over time. All of them overclock between 2900mhz-3045mhz stable.

This one won't be overclocked... so all good. :D

@@sterntechdaddy ok there still good when overclocked and can handle up to 120℃-125℃ Still great card

I can see where you’re getting at- but I’m a huge PC-VR enthusiast looking for a mind-blowing experience… and when I’m hearing games taking up over 17gb of vram… safe to say the 4090 is easily my future choice

For sure... just not this one if you want to get all the LED bling looking good. :P

Completely serious. It's very distracting. But please note that this is the only issue with it. Just about every 4090 is great though and as this was one of the cheapest it is probably the best aftermarket card currently available as you say. If they had just put the LED's around the edge of the fan ports... The LED's have been turned off and my customer is happy. Personally, if I was having LED's then everything would have LED's. It's conspicuous (and irritating) with the LED's on, but it's conspicuous with the LEDS off if the rest of the PC lights up... Not sure my comment was actually Freudian, everything does have to have LED bling... assuming you want to spend the extra money on it. I probably should've added that statement just to clarify. I do actually care a lot about LED bling. I love it. See my other videos. But also see the PC this card is in at the end of this video. 😍

I didn't approach this with lab rules in mind - I have no idea what the ambient temperature was, but I do mention that its warm in the room. Because it was. :D The CPU is on the defaults (voltages, etc) apart from the XMP for the 6000Mhz RAM being enabled. I put the CPU in and when it first booted I checked it was identified correctly in the BIOS and then enabled XMP. That's all. The case, however, is the Lian Li 011 EVO XL in reverse mode. So the rear exhaust fans are now on the bottom of the rear panel. And the fans are blowing cool air in directly onto the cooler - which might be helping. Especially are there are two 120mm fans there because the motherboard tray has been moved higher up. There's also 3 x 140mm fans on the bottom blowing air up into the case. So if your case is the more usual 'right side of the desk' layout then your CPU will be getting fed hotter air from the GPU below it - especially if it's a newer card with the blow through cooler at the front end of it. My customer will pick up the PC later today and I've already asked them to keep a note of maximum temperatures. They'll be leaving HWInfo running and then noting down the maximum temp it records when they finish a session. I was a bit surprised too - but the numbers don't lie and I've shown them in the video as proof. I'm just wondering how much of a difference the case is making because of it's unusual layout. If you've already got a cooler fitted then you may as well keep it and get on with the gaming... :)

Indeed, my case has a classic layout: At the front, two 140mm Noctua IPP Industrial 3000RPM fans on top (which directly channel air to the heatsink), and a Silversone Air Penetrator 180mm fan at the bottom regulated with a fan controller, a 120mm Nidec GT 2150RPM exhaust fan at the back, another 180mm Silverstone on the side panel to help cool the GPU (Sapphire 7900 XTX Nitro+ Vapor X), and the 6 fans of the AIO are also industrial (120mm Deltas at 3400RPM). As you can see, noise is not a problem for me since I’m aiming for raw cooling performance (I used to have a custom loop on an AM3+ platform, and when I upgraded to AM5 last year, I preferred to go with air cooling and an AIO because of maintenance terms). So, in terms of airflow, I’ve set up a true overkill 😅. I tried a Deepcool Assassin 3 before this LF 3 360, and the real difference is probably around 2°C in idle in favor of the LF3, but I haven't been able to calculate well in gaming-maybe 3-5°C. But I’ve been eyeing the PS120 Evo for a while now, and I’m still tempted to try it, especially seeing the minimal difference with 360 AIOs... Will it be better than the Deepcool Assassin 3 I had? I think it might be... Any test data you gather with the PS120 Evo, keep me posted! Thank you very much, mate! 🙂

​@@sterntechdaddy, Could you try testing the temperatures again with Prime 95, Cinebench R23, or any CPU demanding game using my configuration (ECO mode (65W), PBO -25, and EXPO (6000) enabled), and also confirming the ambient temperature? As well as the idle temperatures? I would really appreciate it so I can see the real difference between the PS 120 Evo and the Arctic Liquid Freezer 3 360, even though the case and airflow may be different..."

I would be happy to but it's not my PC... I assembled it for a customer and they are now happily playing games with it. No complaints after a week so I think the cooler works. 😊 I have, however, just assembled another PC with the same cooler - this time with a Ryzen 5 7600X processor. Idle is around 35 degrees and full load with Prime95 tops out at 86 degrees. This is in a Corsair 2500X mATX case. Videos to follow for that, but I think the left hand mode for the Lian Li 011 Dymanic EVO case I've unboxed and reviewed makes a difference. The 2500X is the conventional right hand style. 😊 One thing I would say is that if you've got funky RAM with LED's and/or a buffed heat spreader like Batman armor, then don't get this cooler. The fans will overhang the RAM and need lifting up the to fit... which spoils how things look a bit. Video to follow for this when I review the case.

Okay, thank you very much for the information. No, my RAM doesn’t really have nice RGB lights; I have two 16GB Kingston Fury Beast (full black) modules, and I'm not much into RGB (that's why I chose the black version without RGB of the Arctic Liquid Freezer 3 360). Would it be possible for you to ask the person whose PC you built what maximum temperatures they're reaching with the 7800X3D and the PS 120 EVO? If not, no worries...

You either install the versions of MaxxAudio Pro and sound driver that shipped with the laptop, or install the latest versions of both. :)

Pretty much any combination of computer and printer that fits your budget. 😊

That might be tricky for all sorts of reasons... but you can dismantle yours and check for stickers with part numbers on. Google them and see what appears. In my experience, the screens are pretty easy to find, but the plastic lids and bezels are not usually available unless you get lucky. I have bought damaged laptops on eBay and swapped the parts over though - this used to be a good idea for SONY laptops, but isn't really cost effective now. Note that the lids and bezels are usually plastic - so you could get some proper epoxy glue and repair them that way. :)

Download the BIOS using another computer, and the put the file in on a USB stick - follow the instructions as you might have to rename the downloaded file. Plug the USB stick into the faulty computer, boot and enter the BIOS. If that works then you should be able to update the BIOS using the flash program. It depends on the motherboard though... but most modern motherboards have a BIOS Flash util built into their BIOS. Hope that helps.

​@@sterntechdaddy I resetted my bios by removing cmos battery and putting it back and guess what! it worked 🎊✌.

Always try the easiest thing first... its usually the cheapest too. 😊 If its not broken then there's no need to fix it. So if there isn't a specific reason to update BIOS, then there's no need to do it.

I'm not sure about Canada... they probably have a fairly relaxed and sensible attitude to the Internet, but you should just choose the region where you live because that will setup time zones and keyboard mapping correctly. You also don't need to wait for it to charge - you can use it immediately if the mains is connected and turned on. You can pause the video and rewind too... so just take your time. If the video doesn't match your particular laptop then don't worry - just do the bits that do match. :)

Glad it helped. :)

You’ll probably need the drivers installing. Run Windows Update and then check the optional updates. Install them all and see if that helps.

It needs the USB for power… 🙂 But that’s all…

It’s a guide… it’s not step by step, but there’s everything you need to get it working if you’ve got a few skills.

No - you don't ned to dismantle the case to get the PSU out. There's a screw on the front and a screw on the opposite side of the power supply that holds it in place. Remove those two screws and the PSU just lifts out. It's got a separate bracket attached to it which makes swapping it out really easy. You can see the front screw at 20:42 - it's the silver screw in the hole between the two silver screws on the front. Hope that helps. :)

@@sterntechdaddy thank you I just ordered this case

Cool. It's a really nice case! :)

@@sterntechdaddy another question, can I fit many hdds in it? I will use the case for my home server so I will probably use at least 3 drives, or fit a hd case

The Qube 500 has 4 x 3.5” drive mounting positions and 3 x 2.5” drive mounting positions. You can put 2.5" drives into 3.5" adapters if you need to. :)

Does it have an Intel 8th Gen or newer CPU? Win11 won’t officially install - even with TPM enabled. But… if you’ve got 4GB or more of RAM then you can tweak the installer USB with Rufus and get Windows 11 installed without TPM. I’ve made a video about how to do it. 🙂