I didn't mention phasing because this video is about angles specifically. The video is 17 minutes long as is and in the interests of keeping it short enough that people can watch and digest the whole thing we needed to be selective about what was included in the video. We do have a page about phasing on our website though 4xshaft.com/blogs/faq/driveshaft-in-phase. The attachment shown for the double cardan is correct. There is a centering ball and centering pin in the double cardan that prevents it from flopping around.

The turbo encabulator is an important component which is required to ensure non-euclidian encabulation between the subspace tranducer matrix and the chronometric differential. Pretty basic stuff.

Cool story bro.

The steering caster is on the front axle. The slip yoke eliminator is so you can run a double cardan drive shaft on the rear. So the required pinion angle adjustments on the rear axle do not affect the caster.

That's a good point to bring up. It is possible, on many vehicles, to rotate the front axle using the method you described. While not rocket science it is a fairly difficult task that most people are not equipped to do themselves. It's not exactly a do it yourself, weekend in the garage, type of thing. Experienced fabricators can do it, but this video is mostly intended to explain things to regular people. For most people, a cut and turn on the axle is not a realistic option.

@@tomwoodscustomdriveshafts Fair enough! Honestly didn't expect a reply! Good on ya, mate. I live in an area where guys will drop over $100k on custom builds like it's dollar taco day at Taco Bell. I just figured if we were this deep into drive shaft knowledge, we were getting serious. Also, I have that pinion angle tool I bought from Dana/Spicer plus all the adapters. I bet not everyone has that particular tool. It wasn't cheap.

Hi Kyle, Shawn Wood here. I looked up the records on this to try and gain some insight as to what you are upset about and here's what I can find. We lengthened and re-balanced a shaft for you in Dec 2023 then you called in April 2024 where you and I had a 1 minute and 15 second conversation. I don't remember the details of that conversation I may have said that I don't know how else to fix the problem or I may have explained that a double cardan shaft with a slip yoke style transfer case can result in high speed vibrations. I can guarantee that I did not tell you to "pound sand". At any rate, I'm sorry that we weren't able to help you and hope you were able to find the solution you were looking for somewhere else.

@@tomwoodscustomdriveshafts I informed you it is substantially worse than before. As shown in this video it clearly falls into the Dynamic vibration category. I understand that this style is less than ideal however no SYE'S are made for the Ford T-Cases so unfortunately is what it is in that regard. You did not specifically say pound sand but stated we checked it it said it was good so we don't need to check it again. When it's a dynamic issue. The bigger frustration is I have clocked it all over on T-Case splines as well as all 4 locations on diff flange and it is 100% the same so still leading towards a driveshaft issue. I placed a dial indicator and measured the run-out near pinion and T-Case and the whole tube top to bottom is not centered. I even ran it and marked it and it's clear where the tube is not centered. Have videos showing this etc. That's the reason I am frustrated. Vibration starts at 2,300rpm shaft speed and gets bad at 2,500rpm and remains bad to and past 3,000rpm. That is shaft speed not engine RPM. Gets a hair better under load and on deceleration. Worse when no load which again points towards a shaft balance concern. That's the frustration.

@@tomwoodscustomdriveshafts Angle at T-case is 13* and pinion is down 1.6* and is leaf sprung so under load should minimize to near 0 under operating conditions. Shaft length from center of u joint to center of CV is 35 1/4" so its nkt a super short shaft. Angle does suggest a double cardon should be best however with this style of slip on T-Case maybe a standard style driveline with substantially less rotating weight would be better. I belive the current one which is a 3" tube, 1350s is 27lbs. Which is a lot of weight to be spinning at 3,000-3,500rpm.

Harmonics probably. Everything in the vehicle that is moving is vibrating, just at varying intensities and frequencies. At certain points multiple parts of the system will all synchronize which will increase the perceived intensity.

I got a rwd 2008 is350 so it’s a single shaft but at a stop or when coming to a stop u can hear and feel a slight vibration under the car fucking annoying as soon as I step on the car it goes away and the car drives fine