Massive thank you for this video. Just fixed my Rapid 2018 - very similar to this model.

My vw polo I removed the crankshaft sensor and clean it the problem in I have this code p0322 not sure what wrong I did?

kzbin.info/www/bejne/o5KbY6CIha2rj68si=dlmPsx0LUg6KsN6k

My son and i will sing songs about you under the northern ligths. This was truly a good guide our 18 year old miele just started banging like crazy and i got into fight ir flight mode and shielded myself behind my 4 year old son, i thought we were being burgled. Thank you.

love your curtains

kzbin.info/www/bejne/qn7MgWWvp5hphpIsi=AT8-Tf4aWgIFpOHr Good morning. The same thing happened to me on my Hyundai i30. Your video has been a great help. Thank you very much

Don’t do this! Simply press the lock then the unlock buttons on your key fob 3 or 4 times and it should work ok.

Szia! Mi a teendő, ha gázszivárgás van (a gáz eltűnt, a levegő langyos). Szétszereltem, minden tiszta, a kompresszor közvetlen csatlakozással működik, azonban felmelegszik, de a másik cső alig hűl le. Van tapasztalata a gázszivárgás okáról? A kérdésem az, hogy van-e házi készítésű módszer a gáz helyettesítésére? A gáz R-290 . Mennyisége azonban nincs megadva a kompresszor címkéjén.

Thanks man still useful in 2024

Thank you Sir!

Great video. But did i miss something? you use the large mandrel in the outer hole to get the drill to line up? Its not a tight fit i acknowledge but better than nothing . Study the angle they are at by reference to one of the others. Preferably put a long screwdriver( philips 9 mm shaft ) or wood dowel if possible in an to give an accurate guide of the angle to drill at.

but how did u remove/refit the glass

Thank you Kevin.

Does it matter the tail facing downwards

Nifty trick. Thanks for explaining so well.

I read somewhere that the Idle Air Control can be provoking this problems with starting and having the right ammount of air. That goes to the ECU and gives it a signal of what is the right ammount of air. Did you look that up? Seems to be that when is faulty, the system has problems with power. I just stumbled across your video and thought you would actually replace that part, so I would have some instructions, but seems like we're all in the road to the unknown 😂. Please let me know if you fixed it or if you made videos about it, thanks!!

It brings no solution. The problem will reappear because you didn't ground it to the chassis ground lug...

so glad i watched this - was going to do mine myself - but think garage now - very good video thanks

I had this problem and had to run a wire to a new ground

Do you know how to remove this grille on the long nose version? Thank you

Thanks!! I just solved mine in 10 sec 😂

My one, skoda Karoq, mechanic menaged to unlock it from inside throu light cover...so now i can open it and close just cant lock it. He said all the wv group has issue with it and there is no other way to change it than taking out all the liner inside. Wird thing is there is no emergency release, so if it is stuck you have to call or go to mechanic if you have enough fuel to get to one.

I've done a few of these, one on a vivaro van and another on a Fiat ducato, both were simple in comparison to your octavia, I'm not looking forward to that job😏

Word of caution woth this method, it is possible the allen bit (10mm) can somehow get lost inside. Whether betwwen the bearings or the shaft is hollow I don't know yet. I'm still trying to remove the cv 😮 😢

Adding here the settings for a W1713 washing machine: Water intake: Cold Max water level: No Flow meter: Yes Low water pressure: Yes Sensor rinse: Yes Allergy: No Country version: EU Auto load control: Yes Heater rating: 2100W Suds container: 6kg Imbalance charts: 6kg Max spin speed: 1300 Imbalance sensor: Tacho Time left disp: Yes Motor type: MRT 37-16 Hygiene: Off

Good video, I haven't had great results with the CA-DAB 001, infact I've fitted two that led to a message on the radio saying antenna error. Some info I found says turn the antenna power off, which weakens the signal but makes it work but a poor signal or constant drop off. Turn the antenna power on and antenna fault message appears. I tend to use the Autoleads one from Halfords, it's got a coax and single black wire to be powered from a 12 volt source. I've had the best results with these ones. The passive or active splitter ones from China are bad, just open the black box and see what the board and solder look like. I wouldn't want that in my car. Because of how the A pillar trim goes on, don't put the black box too close to the pillar, it makes getting the trim back on difficult. Good video

Hi, for the very awkward to refit turbo inlet pipe bracket, I used a cap headed bolt possibly 45mm long with a flange nut loctited midway to clamp the dipstick bracket and inlet pipe. Much easier to refit and hold to start the thread

Just repaired mine, Thanks!! My SMD IR was just weak or dead, bought a strip of 5 pieces (Kingbright KP-2012F3C, 940 NM, 0805) for ~1.50 euro, transport cost were crazy more then 10 euro 🤣 First time SMD soldering went very well thanks to some educational vids on YT😉. (good and bad vids out there on how to do it, use your brain to filter out the good and do it nice). I needed to buy the right super small tip (XT HX) for my Weller iron, very thin tin (0.2mm)😉, I also bought a new bottle of flux (TK83 no clean). Make sure you get the old tin clean off, because you need to seat it flat on the print, can recommend looking for some no clean desoldering wire (I used Techspray no clean). Using my phone as a magnifying glass was a bit clumsy but it worked, need to fix that problem in the future or buy a new pair of eyes like in cyberpunk 2077😇. My end total cost were below 50 euro and got my Fluke 287 back + new soldering tools + new skill level unlocked😜 Thanks again! and good luck if you have the same problem! Fixing your nice battery eating fluke is worth it😛.

Very good video. I followed it and it took me 5 hours too as some else have mentioned here. I had 2post lift and i thought i will do quicker. Most difficult part was opening connections between condensder and hoses.Bolts were corroded into aluminium. And seals were stuck too.And second trouble was that condenser bracket which holds those hose connections and is fixed on coolant radiator's side. I bought cheapest condenser and that bracket was bit off from original geometry.

I’m dreading even starting on mine. 🙁

I am 70 and this was an easy fix thank you

What a shit design not being open it by emergency cable

Did this job today on my VRS. Wow, you said the condenser connections to the ac pipes at the back weren’t too difficult…..4 hours and lots of swearing later it’s all back together.

Hi Kevin, thanks for this and other videos. I’m about to do exactly as you have done as mine. At first it wouldn’t start which turned out to be an ignition switch. I also changed the Stanadynes as PedroPickle mentioned here. Have not had the benefit of seeing their full glory as now i have a bad white smoke issue from the exhaust and back of the engine. Can’t accelerate as the engine dies and engine won’t go past 1500rpm. Not diagnosed the issue yet but starting with this video. Also mine is an AJT with an ACV plastic cover as PedroPickle pointed out. Back to problem solving!

Thanks for this brilliant tutorial, it was invaluable, couldn't have done it without it. I replaced the whole regulator as I didn't fancy fitting a new cable and it wasn't too expensive for the whole new part. I found the trickiest part was removing the parts that hold the glass in place. If you're replacing the whole regulator as I did, it was very easy to run a hacksaw blade where the glass is held (flush to glass on outside) and cut off the plastic that goes through the hole. I was a bit worried I'd break the glass when pushing the clip but if you just saw through it then you can't really break the glass.

Big thank you 👏👏 excellent info helped greatly with install of new window system.

Hi Kevin. I have the exact same model and vintage. Even though ACV is printed on the cam cover, that's only because the ACV model cam cover is also fitted to this engine model - the AJT. Does the engine smoke white upon first starting after a day or two of rest? If so, the inlet air leak you refer to here is not the reason. Although a good idea to find a nice securing clip for that pipe, it is almost certainly the OE injectors of the 88bhp model - the Stanadynes - that are leaking fuel into the chamber after a rest that is causing any starting issues. I have a custom body and nozzle combination that you can get from International Diesels that are stamped "GERMANY VW Audi" - that are actually Bosch units - I can dig out for you if you reply to this comment - See Ron Rake on T4 Forum - he did mine for me but he's in Liverpool. Completely transformed the running of mine. At least 102bhp now and beautiful to drive.

Thanks alot. Mine would not crank after reaching operating temperature or after a long distamce drive. If i let the car cool down it would start up right well. But now it has refused completely to start, though it cranks. Any advice ??

Well done mate, couldn't have done it without your video.

My dpo3054 has the same problem. I decide to replace it too. Thanks for your video.

Had the same problem with my 1.9 td, just followed your instructions, it's fixed the problem, thanks for posting this video..

Excellent video! Stuck fuel filler flap seems to be pretty common. Sadly I’m getting the same on my 2014 Octavia vRS estate. I bought a new actuator, I assume the cable is easy enough to unplug and re plug the new one?

Great information thanks Kevin, seems like you need patience and know how to get what you want!, very helpful, cheers

Im now thinking that by taking the speaker cover off the door i may be able to remove the old cone and cut the insides out of the round box leaving just the terminals and fit a new aftermarket speaker without going through with removing the whole door card.. 🤔

Hello Kevin, I am having issues with volume cutting in an out and believe it is the cord that connects to the ear muff. I am going to replace the cord but want to make sure I don't break the box while im at it. How do you properly remove the cord from the headset and open up the battery box? Thanks!

Thank you very much for this video, found my fault at the same point... VW Passat B6 2.0 tdi BMP

Very similar to the Toledo,Rapid setups used a lot of your info thankyou.

I just kept opening the car while pushing the flap and it opened...

The fuel flap is a slide fit on the hinge. Once you have levered the flap out, simply pull it backwards & it comes off. you can then access end of the actuator to release the hinge assy. Check the video by Tomas Dvorak. There is no need to break anything.

Great instruction video, thank you!