Skoda Octavia TDi P0322 Cranshaft Speed Sensor - Broken Wire

The car failed to start one day; it would crank but not fire. Extended cranking would result in a start, but it was not running properly.
A code reader showed P0322, crankshaft speed sensor: no signal. Looking online I saw a number of other VW/Audi owners with the same problem. They replaced the sensor and still had the same symptoms. Further investigation showed the fault to be a broken wire to the sensor.
Given that mine was a DSG automatic, the sensor is not as easy to access. The garage who was looking at the problem wanted to remove the gearbox to enable them to access the sensor. The cost of this would have been more than the value of this 17-year-old car so I suggested that I check the wiring before condemning the car to the scrap yard.
If you want to remove the ECU to get at the pins in the connector for the continuity measurement then take a look here: • HOW TO REMOVE OR REPLA...
It is slightly different to the Skoda but close enough to be useful.
If you take a look here: www.briskoda.n...
You will see the wiring diagram and connector pin out.
To save you some trouble, you can just make measurements at the 3-pin sensor connector. With the ignition turned on, using a multimeter you should have 0V on pin 3, 5V on pin 1 and I suspect 5V on pin 2 (although I didn’t check after the repair).
If any of these are missing, then you probably have a broken wire. You could cut the tape around the wiring loom near the ECU and see if you can pierce the wire insulation on the appropriate wire colours. If you find a break you can then strip some insulation and run in a new wire and then join it in down near the sensor. You need to route it so that it won’t chafe. I wrapped it in PCV tape and removed the battery tray so that I could follow the existing harness.
You can clip it into the existing flexible conduit around the front of the engine to protect it.
Just reassemble everything carefully and you should be good to go.

[@RoarFossdal]

Thank you very much for this video, found my fault at the same point... VW Passat B6 2.0 tdi BMP

[@Charger1969]

Got the same fault I believe, BKD, dash lit up with low oil pressure, no rev counter, ESP and glow plug light, spluttered and cleared, went out tonight fine until stopping and starting took a few cranks with a flash on the glow plug, then ran fine no lights

[@MALUMEMALUME-mn9tg]

My vw polo I removed the crankshaft sensor and clean it the problem in I have this code p0322 not sure what wrong I did?

[@bvqbvq]

If the car is old, then any movement of the wiring harness can cause a break in the wire. You will have to use a multimeter to check the continuity of the 3 wires (+5V, 0V, signal) back to the engine ECU. You can then add a new bypass wire if you can find which one is broken. Good luck!

[@slicesausage2503]

My bkd golf is doing the same i replaced the crankshaft sensor today what a great job that was 🤦‍♂️🤣,still randomly cutting out shows code crankshaft voltage high ? Wiring fault you think should i check the wiring harness

[@bvqbvq]

The crank sensor is supplied with 5V from the ECU. If it is reporting a voltage that is too high then this could be a false feed from another circuit or a fault with the ECU. I would start by seeing if you can measure 5V DC across the supply pins on the sensor. You could then measure between the 0V and the signal wire and rotate the crank to see if you get an alternating 0V - 5V - 0V - 5V, etc. If you don't then you will need to gain access to the ECU and resistively measure from the sensor connections back to the ECU connections. Accessing the ECU is a pain if you have tamperproof bolts. Just use a Dremel to make some slots for a large screwdriver. All of these BKD engines are getting old now and the wiring harness is quite tight under the battery and onto the engine so there is a fair chance that your problem lies there. The good news is that it is a cheap fix ;-)

[@slicesausage2503]

@@bvqbvq thanks for the reply mate and info ive fixed the fault the wiring harness that goes to the crank sensor and throttle body some if the wires where bare a purple one going to the crank sensor all good now 🤘🤘

[@bvqbvq]

@@slicesausage2503 good effort, you have done well! I wonder how many perfectly serviceable BKD cars are scrapped all beacuse of a simple wiring harness problem.

[@slicesausage2503]

@@bvqbvq haha cheers mate i replaced the MAF,AFM,THROTTLE BODY,EGR & CRANKSHAFT SENSOR,lets just say im financially involved was no going back drives like a new car now if i couls upload a pic i would.Yeh most definately most people would say enough scrap it .its got 192,000 you would never tell

[@markthenewt]

Hi mate really useful video. I have a problem with my cam shaft sensor (BRD engine) 2.0 twin cam. I will be checking the wiring to the ecu before changing the cam position sensor to rule that out first. My question is if my wiring is faulty, what gauge wire have you used to make the repair? Thanks

[@muhindojehoiadapatience4455]

Thanks alot. Mine would not crank after reaching operating temperature or after a long distamce drive. If i let the car cool down it would start up right well. But now it has refused completely to start, though it cranks. Any advice ??

[@bvqbvq]

Ideally you need a code reader to see if there are any errors. If you crank the engine for a long time and then it starts then I think that this is an indication that the ECU is not seeing the crank sensor signal and it reverts to using the cam sensor to run the engine. If this is the case then you either have a sensor fault or a wiring fault. You will need to use standard fault-finding techniques to fit the problem.

[@eddydar]

I getting my octavia 2.0 tdi 2012 playing up when hot. Says crankshaft sensor but im thinkimg wiring issue. Gonna swap the crank sensor first and take it from.there.

[@bvqbvq]

I would make a couple of measurements of voltage and resistance before you change the sensor. Take a look at the notes in the description. If you pull on the wiring whilst making the measurements then you can see if the values are changing. The fact that your problem is linked to heat suggests that it might well be the sensor itself that is faulty.