@@Lb562-e9h No. It was at our shop. Though we do work for Caliber regularly.

@@nookingo Might want to have that looked at. 😁

@@atikovi1 Just when you first start. Once or twice and you figure it out pretty quick. I’m no mathematician either. That’s why I’m in auto glass. 🤣 #autoglasslife

@@Don-Auto_Glassing Every one has a little nuance. 👍🏻

@@professionalautoglass2042 Yes we use Xpress 30. I like it better than the Sika we used at Safelite. The V-bead holds its shape better, especially when it’s hot outside.

@@professionalautoglass2042 Just pass on the videos.

@@polarbearslim thanks

@@hayseedproductions5606 the short answer is yes, these can be used with the new Bronco. If I don’t have a video in my library on it already, I’ll put one up as soon as I come across another one.

@@austinbailey2341 Nope. Just be careful plugging it back in. You don’t want to bend the pins.

@@mercifulbutbroken6675 Just need to make sure it’s aligned properly and don’t snap off one of those little cleats. It’s possible too that if someone before bent one out it could be out of place and needs to be pushed back but you’d have to be careful not to break it

@@nonstar8182 Not to sound like a smart ass but the reverse of pulling it. Slide the upper part, against the glass, toward the headliner. You may have to let the top come away from the glass a little or shift it back and forth a bit to get it to slip into the hooks on the glass, because we all know very few of the mounting brackets are placed perfectly. After you get the top slipped in you should be able to snap the bottom on. Again, you may have to wiggle and shift it a bit to get it to lock down, but that’s the gist of it. Honestly didn’t think about recording reassembly, I may start doing that too. Thank you for watching and commenting.

​@autoglass_help_line thanks yeah after I posted this i did basically exactly what you said and it worked :) thanks man!

@ 👍🏻

@@professionalautoglass2042 Me too. 😁

@ : you are so very big major league, in this business 🏆🎖️

@@professionalautoglass2042 Thank you buddy. I appreciate the support. 🙏🏻

@@derekschoetzow6390 It is wrong. Urethane bonds best to urethane.

@@abdelhafidtaibi7901 Always…

@@eddyrahmanyar4265 I’ve used that method before too.

@@Gmane1709 Right!?!

@ I’ve encounter some where I can push the glass off by hand or my line will jump like half the length of the glass 🤣😂

@ Yep. This one pulled the top right before I even made it to that side. 🤣

@@DeruUeruddo 🤣🤣 Not while I was there. 😁

@@DeruUeruddo : why ??? always Safelite 😂😂😂😂😂

Looks like something that somebody doesn't have the training or care for the customer

@@Loudd2v / for sure 100 %

@ 💯

@@lnunez5967 As soon as I come across one I will definitely record it. Thanks for the heads up and the request.

@@martinsalazar9042 Thank you!!

@@JMC881 This one was done at the local Subaru dealer so they recalibrated it themselves.

@@professionalautoglass2042 👍🏻

@@viniciusmouragoncalves1368 Yes. The line will cut through the positioning pins as well. There are a few manufacturers that have heavy pins, but it should cut through most if the cutting line isn’t too worn. Thanks for watching. 🙏🏻

@autoglass_help_line thank you very much

What's your favorite line to do quarters and vent windows?

@ I use the WRD P8 Spider Line for 99% of my removals. Windshield, quarter, vent… all of them. 👍🏻

​@@autoglass_help_linethanks. I like the p8 but I feel like it struggles with some clips. I need to learn the "sawing" technique better maybe.

@@professionalautoglass2042 Definitely been there.

@ you right 🫡👌 this is not going to happen again, I paid a big price for that and , I learned more and more every day

@@jaywilson3081 P8. I use P8 for 99% of what I cut out. I only use P10 with the Bison because it has the larger spools to accommodate enough of the larger line to get around the bigger windshields.

@@curtishouseman9542 I have the shields now. Was waiting for the new ones to show up. 😁

@@BlaBla-rx7lx Are you just using the U-lock or are you using a drag similar to what I have?

@ I use a combo of both but mainly u lock.

@ The U-lock is great for thin beads because there isn’t a lot of tension. But if the tension gets too high it will snap then line, usually on the spool because you’re loading that tensioned line onto the bat. That’s where the drag comes in. Use the drag more often and get a feel for the amount of tension you can safely load without snapping. It takes time but once you have it you’ll get much longer use out of each load of line.

@ cool thanks for the feedback I’ll stick to a screwdriver for now.

I know for sure , the QC is your favorite tool 😁💪🏻

@@daveerrington5166 This was a warranty replacement so this one went into the trash. That said, this was an opportunity to show how to save a back glass with this specific tool. Auto glass companies that work with body shops are often trying to save the glass they pull. I don’t always have a back glass to record at a body shop, so as I said, this was just an opportunity to make the video. I don’t care to vacuum up all that glass, so if I can cut it out whole I’ll save myself the time and mess from smashing it out just to make it “easier.” As far as the labor charge, I have no idea.