hello its amazing how to make liquid polyester to fire reardant ? just antimony or other powder also needs?
@danielaj345111 күн бұрын
Hello, thank you for this wonderful demonstration, I'm about to carry out to a similar experiment and I'm grateful for this video. I wanted to ask tho, the mixing ratio prescribed the company for part 1 and 2 is 1 to 1.06 but you used 1:1. Does that not cause any issues at all?
@ecfibreglassuk9 күн бұрын
Hi Daniel, thank you for pointing this out its an old video using our old formula. Our current is 1 to 1.06, although small mixes would still work at 1:1 anything like a 25ltr mix would be best done exact to the 1 to 1.06. thanks again for drawing this to our attention I will make an updated video soon.
@danielaj34519 күн бұрын
@ecfibreglassuk thank you for the swift response. I'm currently experimenting with smaller samples so this is very useful tip thank you. Perhaps I could vary their densities by working between those 2 ratios. For the updated video, I hope we can see tips on the extraction process since it can get very sticky maybe a recommendation of adhesives that work well with it. I'm doing an impact test on the PUF and I understand from the datasheet that it needs to be restrained to make it uniform, will it be possible to showcase something like this as well?
@ecfibreglassuk8 күн бұрын
@@danielaj3451 yes having a mould closed off to restrain it will help make the foam more uniform. whichever foam you use try to follow the mix ratio advised exactly, obviously sometimes its hard to control the pour so you will be gram out here or there but that's nothing to worry about. we've never moulded with our foam it is often just used as a buoyancy chamber filler so I'm not sure what release agent can be used to remove it? for gluing i would assume some sort of rubberised contact adhesive or epoxy can be used?
@michaelmoll5619 күн бұрын
Answered my question for sure. Thanks. I thought it needed to be sandwhiched between another chop strand matt before applying another biaxel matt.
@jimmylekelalu455926 күн бұрын
Very helpful explanation
@simondalzell563529 күн бұрын
Would you say the mould is not compromised with the Thickened Latex ? I was unsure whether to use the Thickener.
@ecfibreglassuk29 күн бұрын
as long as you are careful how much you put in it will be fine . we recommend adding between 1 and 10% thickener to latex. if you were doing small moulds like chess pieces i would just dip or paint on more layers of unthicken latex. avoid brands of powder based thickeners as they are more likely to weaken the mould.
@simondalzell563529 күн бұрын
Many thanks, Very Useful.
@projectdalekmarkАй бұрын
Saw this at reception the other week. Great work!
@KingqhawemiyaАй бұрын
Where U warking I know to use Faber glass to laminate I'm in SA KZN
@ecfibreglassukАй бұрын
North East UK Seaside town called South Shields
@markovfishskinzАй бұрын
Greetings fom australia fred . Great job you have all done . Stephen , anne smalls nephew.
@graham6137Ай бұрын
Love the video but hate the music!
@Zlodej5Ай бұрын
Always find it impressive when seller creates videos that are objecttive and informative without salles woffle. Its rare and only happens up North.
@dckakadiaАй бұрын
I'm working on bonding ABS material with resin but having trouble finding the right fit. I've tried both epoxy and polyester resin, but the results haven't been ideal-FRP hardens once it dries, while ABS remains flexible, so they don’t bond well together. Does anyone have recommendations on a resin or adhesive that could work better for this? I'd appreciate any insights or suggestions
@ecfibreglassukАй бұрын
There are certainly challenges trying to bond thermoplastics with various resins. Most resins will not bond to ABS, PVC, HDPE etc Polyester resins are a definite no, Epoxies can bond if the surface is keyed enough and the epoxy type is flexible. Epoxies, such as West system’s G-flex, can provide good mechanical bonding for flexible ABS parts, the effectiveness largely depends on the degree of flexibility in the ABS part. There is a video on KZbin where an ABS canoe is cut in half and bonded back together with G-flex then totally thrown about to show how strong the repair is kzbin.info/www/bejne/jXS2YaSoeZiAh7s However, if the bonded parts experience significant movement, solutions like plastic welding might be the most durable option.
@stanleydenningАй бұрын
A little bragging here. I am the gentleman who invented the corner roller. I'm also the inventor of a roller that is made of something that we could call a bottle brush. Whenever I made a mold I avoided a sharp 90° or less corner. Whenever a sharp corner was necessary I had a solution for that as well. I made a compound of resin, fumed silica and 3 mm glass roving. The compound is made to be very thick. The solution it's not foolproof but I had very little problem with it. Yes, I'm old as the hills and twice as Dusty.
@Andrew-vx2lsАй бұрын
This is very useful and encourages me to get back into doing some fibre-glassing.
@Reman19752 ай бұрын
Interesting. At some point soon I need to build an odd sized (7x16') semi permanent shed that can be assembled by one person. I initially thought of welding up 6x4 and 7x4 steel box section frames for the side walls, a pair of 3'6" wide panels with the sloped roof angle on the top for the back wall, and a couple of door frame halves for the front, then skinning all these in painted 9mm plywood. But these panels would end up being ridiculously heavy......... And have you seen the price of plywood at the minute !!! I've never had much luck with fibreglass moulding in the past, but after seeing this video I'm thinking I might need to look into the possibility (And costs involved) of making the walls in a similar way to how you made these doors. Maybe if I encapsulated a "Batten wood" frame around the edges, and a couple vertical wooden stringers up the middle, it might even be strong enough without most of the metal framework? I just need to work out what kind of loads the walls could see if the corrugated sheet roof I'm intending to use had, for example, a foot of snow all across it, and how much it would cost in materials per panel to make them structural enough to carry that. 🤔
@paulmat5552 ай бұрын
Hello, great video, thank you. On an avg how much area would be covered by 1kg of gel coat.
@ecfibreglassuk2 ай бұрын
It will depend on thickness and equipment used but rule of thumb is approx 1.4m² per 1kg..
@BigChris832 ай бұрын
Can I use the PU skin to cover a Styrofoam head??
@muhammadrashid16012 ай бұрын
I am also a fiberglass craftsman
@Binkylons2 ай бұрын
I was doing it wrong, i was mixing the gelcoat with 5-10% styrene to thin it for brush on application.
@dfxl1612 ай бұрын
Amazing that you can still talk and breathe with that polyester resin next under your nose..it must be epoxy resin…but you said it isnt..😮 Not a good example for a youtube course..just put some mask on, please..
@ninehundreddollarluxuryyac59583 ай бұрын
Thanks! It is both surprising and disappointing when this happens. Mine happened on the first layer of gelcoat painted into the mold, before anything else was layered on top of it. Possibly from too much styrene mixed in at the factory. Mixing the special tooling gelcoat 1:1 with regular white gelcoat and adding a lot of hardener seemed to prevent it. This has not happened again since I finished that one batch of tooling gelcoat.
@chrisbeck67223 ай бұрын
Why not roller for a textured finish?
@ecfibreglassuk3 ай бұрын
if you really wanted the textured finish from a roller then that's fine just don't spread it out too thin with the roller otherwise you could get under curing and tackiness still to the layer, brush allows it to be applied that little bit thicker to enough wax content to rise and stop tack.
@ShelleyOmar-t7e3 ай бұрын
Abdiel Island
@keithschneider63483 ай бұрын
What about outside corners?
@Nick040443 ай бұрын
Did you say flow coat is good for the inside of a hull? I have a fibreglass hull which is rough inside (under tank etc) just want to brush something on to help the water flow out quicker…. Any advice would be much appreciated
@ecfibreglassuk3 ай бұрын
Hi Yes, flowcoat can be used and will give a smoother finish than the rough chopped strand fibreglass. you need to thoroughly sand the old fibreglass, remove any paint and clean so it is free from dirt. then catalyse and apply a layer of the flowcoat. usual coverage is 1.6 sqr mtr per KG
@AtuleAbraham3 ай бұрын
How can I get some of your tools in Ghana west Africa
@ecfibreglassuk3 ай бұрын
HI Unfortunately we do not have any suppliers in Ghana.
@AtuleAbraham3 ай бұрын
@@ecfibreglassuk so what can I do to be able to get some of your item
@ramijmia5563 ай бұрын
I am job
@NoLiS243 ай бұрын
If we want 2 layers (external ..not in mold)..can we use first gel coat..leave it for a day and then apply topcoat ?will the gel coat cure with top coat on top of it?thanks in advance..
@ecfibreglassuk3 ай бұрын
Hi, Yes it would. it is advisable to ensure that the gelcoat id fully cured so next day would be perfect. and also ensure that the flowcoat is applied in good temperatures of around 18-20 deg C and with 2% catalyst so that it cures within a reasonable time. if the flowcoat takes too long to cure due top cold or insufficient catalyst it runs the risk of wrinkling the gelcoat.
@costume354 ай бұрын
hello grate mask also do you teach mask making ? also where can i get the material's that u used in this video?? i am in the uk
@ecfibreglassuk4 ай бұрын
HI Unfortunately we do not teach mask making. a local artist help us with making this video. we have all the materials mentioned except the metalic alu spray paint in our store.
@costume353 ай бұрын
@@ecfibreglassuk thanks so much
@Apollo-m3d4 ай бұрын
thanks a lot for this video
@MrThumbtack4 ай бұрын
I came here to learn a little more about casting a fiberglass part in a two part mold. This was exactly what I needed! Thank you. KZbin channels like this really do the lords work for specific technical knowledge.
@salgonzalez90984 ай бұрын
Thank you! 🙏🏽
@makhtar3224 ай бұрын
❤❤
@mbu7455 ай бұрын
You talk, but in the end, you said nothing. Another useless video. Do you know something from fiberglassing?
@MLBPeacePlanet5 ай бұрын
Nice job....I want to apply some very thin ply as a second skin over fibreglass to make inside boat look nicer.......could i use No nails, Gripfill or some kind of variations to stick panels on.
@weburnitatbothends5 ай бұрын
Haha when you crease glass you break the glass which is what gives strength, this dude knows what he is doing lol
@ecfibreglassuk5 ай бұрын
Yes that is correct and we would never advise creasing glass when moulding or if strength is required. However this demo is for waterproofing not strength. The strength we need is already in the plywood. but thanks for your feedback.
@chrisdyer63705 ай бұрын
That looks awful. That's not a flow coat, it's simply gelcoat with wax in it! The idea of a flow coat is that it flows to produce a flat surface.
@ecfibreglassuk5 ай бұрын
flowcoat or topcoat is gelcoat with wax. its a total misconception that the word flowcoat means that it flows and self levels out. all brands of flowcoat/topcoats are available in various viscosities this is a 'brush' flowcoat for heavy application to rough chopped strand matting finishes.
@ecfibreglassuk5 ай бұрын
which is why we say its not for high cosmetic finishes but to simply seal the rough fibreglass on non cosmetic areas such as engine bays, inside of the hull etc.
@ecfibreglassuk5 ай бұрын
also forgot to mention that polyester brush flowcoat in the GRP industry is different to paint flowcoat in the automotive finishing industry.
@nelsonleonard48625 ай бұрын
Please i need this chemical... please drop me ur contact
@fishhuntadventure5 ай бұрын
2:55 why would you mix ‘bondo’ with a round-end stick instead of a spreader or a putty knife??!! This seems nuts.
@ecfibreglassuk5 ай бұрын
Most of the structure had been done earlier with larger mixes and metal spreading knives. we left only one screw hole and mixed only a tiny amount for the benefit of demonstrating. The main subject of the video is fibreglassing onto plywood rather than how to mix bondo which I'm sure most users know how to do? if they don't know how to mix body filler I'd say put down the fibreglass and resin and walk away 😀.
@PremKumarN-v9y6 ай бұрын
can i use vinyl ester as a resin while second layup of chopped strand mat
@ecfibreglassuk6 ай бұрын
we would only recommend using the materials mentioned for this application. if using a vinylester gelcoat then you can use vinyl ester resin.
@ConfusedReindeer-kf2yn6 ай бұрын
How do I get the chemical
@ecfibreglassuk6 ай бұрын
HI, you will have to google 2 part rigid polyurethane foam suppliers in your country. if however you reside in the UK we can supply. Kind rgds Martin
@rim-om8yw6 ай бұрын
Thanks for your tip's❤ from sri lanka 🇱🇰
@THIAUDI6 ай бұрын
So much for helping me overcome this suffering! I'm from Brazil!
@Kiranthaus6 ай бұрын
Get a closed container big enough for the brushes to stand inside then place a glass inside nd fill half way with acetone then put the brushes inside after wiping as much resin as u can with a old cloth and then close the lid on the container till u next need to use the brush. Leave it somewhere u wont get direct sunlight and make the container is air tight. Take the brush out nd dry it with a cloth nd leave it for 2 mins for the acetone to dry out nd use it. The brush will feel like brand new every time
how do you know if it is bwn yellow or black you need?
@ecfibreglassuk6 ай бұрын
HI, you will just need to play around with the colour back and forth, start with small sample amount. Ideally you need a bit of an artist eye for colour mixing too.
@martybulbul87156 ай бұрын
Hi I’m in the process of restoring my boat and want to repaint it… my question is after gelcoating some fibreglass patch ups that I have done can a apply flowcoat over the whole boat after lightly sanding it? Looking forward to any advise thank you
@ecfibreglassuk6 ай бұрын
Hi, rubbing down flowcoat can be quite difficult so I wouldn't like to do a full hull. If it required fairing you may be best off doing this with epoxy mixed with a fairing powder such as west system epoxy mixed with 407 filler. skim the area, sand when cured then apply a further 2-3 coats of epoxy and leave to cure before priming and painting. but also seek advice from a professional boat builder/restorer first. As apart from having some knowledge on boat repairs our main background is in GRP moulding rather than boat restoration so our advice is limited on this.
@DavidMalenczak7 ай бұрын
So is it recommended to have a bit of air circulation like a desk fan blowing across the part? No heat just air moving.
@ecfibreglassuk7 ай бұрын
This is one method purely to help release the styrene from the deepest parts of a mould, it doesnt have to be a fan you can even fan it now and then during curing with just a peice of card or simply turn the mould on its side to let the styrene vapours out. This is because styrene is heavier than air and will lie low on moulds slowing down the cure. In terms of temperature it is best to work between 15 and 20 degC and avoid direct heat on the mould has this can create other issues such as hotspots leading to severe shrinkage and pre-releasing which can cause indentations in the final part.
@mohammedabo-riyash8667 ай бұрын
Thank you very much, sir. I've faced this problem myself and till before this video, I couldn't have figured out why this happens. We've searched and searched for days and never got the answer. Appreciate this video.