Hello! Yeah, I found mine actually did that exact same thing. I know suspension does need movement to help it settle. But the independent rear end of a beetle in specific is really bad for staying way up in the air when you first drop it. In order to find the ride height of my car, I had to adjust it and then drive it around to see where it would actually settle.

Thank you! No all my fenders are stock. Though I noticed one side is slightly wider which I think is just because it’s getting pulled a little differently once it’s bolted in.

Nothing to be sorry about! I’m sorry I didn’t respond sooner i have been really busy. I’m planning on getting back into posting quite soon though. The engine is a 2276cc, I have another video on the engine specs alone. But thanks a lot for your sub!

Thank you! I’m really sorry I didn’t get back to you sooner, I haven’t been checking my comments. They are stock fenders.

Sorry i haven’t checked my comments in a while. My problem ended up being with a plate that held the brake calliper, it was a part of the disk brake conversion. It was too thick so I thinned it by 1/16” and took out a paper gasket. Seems to have solved my problem. But thank you!

Sorry I didn’t reply sooner! I have a video talking about the tire sizes if you want to go check it out!

Thanks man! 👍

I mostly do, and I try to. There’s just no easy track availability near me.

@@smithsgarage273 that's a nice set up you got with your ride👍🇩🇪

Wow! Almost like my wheels are turned the way my steering wheel is.

That’s actually a great idea, thanks

Thank you! I’m not the best at teaching stuff but I’m glad it’s helpful.

Thanks man!

Haha yeah… it was definitely a hard pill to swallow. I actually wasn’t even going to get It, but I just kept thinking about it and it seemed to fit in so well.

I got some heavy duty channels from cip1, and I actually completely forgot to say this when I talked about them. But yeah, when I held them up to my floor pans to make sure they were right, the lip was way too big, so I ground them down all the way around and re welded them for strength because I got close to the spot welds. Having them like that for wires does make sense but I just had assumed it was bad build quality. Even after that, there is a bit of a void behind my carpet there between the floor pan and that lip from the channel. I hope that helps clear up what you’re asking. Edit: you actually reminded me about how painful that whole process was, I completely forgot. I went back and looked at some photos and the lip was wayyyy too big. I almost made the whole thing come apart by trimming it down.

@@smithsgarage273 I was thinking about removing the spot welds cutting them and re spot welding them. One is on the car so Like you I am cutting to the weld on that one and rewelding I am sure. I have the same heater channels by the way. If I were to do it again it would be channels from Classic Fab or Wolfsburg West. They also did not line up at the Napoleons Hat. I had to take the front cap off the heater channel and redrill the holes. Back to cutting the lip right off and rewelding unfortunately that coating is also between the two halfs and the plug weld will have to be cleaned or sand blasted. This problem is not the end of the world but those heater channels should come with a disclaimer that they need to be modified because they are made to fit many years of cars. Thanks for the reply.

Thank you so much!

Thank you! I was stressing out so much trying to do it.

Thank you! The key chain is my favourite little memory, plus it’s cool looking. I had looked for an old Camaro for awhile as well before my beetle but I kinda fell in love with the beetles once I looked into them. It wasn’t exactly the short shifter that was the problem, since sand got inside my frame from the sand blasting, the bushing that the shift linkage ran through also got sand in it, that I couldn’t get out. My short shifter was cheaper, from a swap meet and it amplified the grindy feeling. The taller shifter is just a preference of mine really.

If the sand wears out your shifter bushings prematurely, go with the delrin bushings... They will probably last a lifetime .. I think they might something for the transaxle connection as well.. I saw a nice installation video on KZbin about the delrin shifter bushings.. Well you take care my friend and have a blessed week...

Thanks, I actually did just order a Kafer setup. There is a traction bar people keep recommending me that comes down from your bumper mounts and straddles the engine. But Im trying to avoid it.

Haha, I already have a handful with my own. But some beetle friends would be cool to have

I actually just fixed it by switching to an old style incandescent light instead of an led one

I’m actually away right now and don’t remember but you can check out this video which explains it all. kzbin.info/www/bejne/bobMi36Qr8iBfpKni=YHvB1XcBHkkGvQNX

Thanks, yeah, I didn’t know what to call it really, I did a bunch of recording in slow motion and I only ever saw the engine drop, but the wheels never hopped like usual cars do with wheel hop. The mid mount was just a last ditch effort of something easy before I go for a kafer truss or traction bar.

Thanks man! The swearing happens off camera, haha. I have to collect myself before hitting record.

Thanks for all your advice and comments! I had someone else say that the horn stiffeners won’t be enough and to do a traction bar instead, I’m just afraid of it causing more engine noise in the cab so I’m still leaning towards the kafer bar because I really like that idea. I’m also about to checkout the idiot light, I have a feeling you’re right.

@@smithsgarage273 keep us posted on how things turn out. Don’t be shy about asking questions, we all learn from one another and help support each other. The multiple comments will help your algorithm 🤙

@@VWJawbreakerthank you! The vw community is so nice on here, I really appreciate it all. I’ll be sure to try out everything and be back to report, what’s your opinion on either a traction bar vs the kafer horn stiffeners?

@@smithsgarage273 this might help answer how the Kafer bar works. kzbin.info/www/bejne/bYDdZWiqrqqCoassi=1KOegqhB-0ishrQL

Thank you!

Thanks! I haven’t dyno tuned it, but I really want to. The idea of the dyno is just a little bit scary still but I’ll do it sometime soon for sure. It’s on the list.

Thank you! I actually just finished filming an interior video, I have to edit it and I’ll get it up in a couple days hopefully.

I don’t but if all else fails that’s what I’m gonna do. And yeah, I’m gonna wire it that way for the permanent fix, through the alternator was just my way of checking it and making sure it worked. Thanks for watching!

Thank you, that’s actually a great idea, it makes perfect sense. I’m gonna make sure to try that one out tomorrow.

Thank you, I had looked into it but I was worried about engine vibrations getting transferred to the body. Right now I’m exploring the brace that comes down from the shock mounts to hold up the ends of the engine horns. But I might have to bite the bullet and go for the traction bar. Thanks for watching my video!

@@smithsgarage273 Im also restoring my 66 VW bug (for the second time) I had a traction bar for years and it only mildly increased the vibrations. You definitely need a traction bar at the rear. Frame horn stiffeners still allow the engine to move too much. Aloha.

@@gillpecceuservices thanks for the advice, I just have to find a good work around for my exhaust.

Haha yeah I’ve been thinking that the whole time, that’s why I triple checked my grounds first because i thought it might be dumb and simple. Electricity is really not my thing at all, anything but electricity. Thanks for all your support! You’re always the first to comment and it’s nice.

@@smithsgarage273 You've got a good channel, and we've got to get your numbers up so you can reach out to more people.. I like your channel because it's simple and you're straight forward and without the normal BS that lots of people resort to... Mr. Smith you take care... And give Oliver my best...

Thank you! I’ll be sure to update everyone on my work the best I can. And as for your other comment I am gonna try to get down to the drag strip this year, I just haven’t done it yet so I’m a bit nervous but it’s on my bucket list for this year.

Thanks man, it’s a dual tip A-1 sidewinder exhaust from CB performance, 1-5/8” diameter.

Thanks man!

Thanks

Thanks man, I had thought so too but I never had shims before when the car was working fine. And after I did actually get the alternator apart I could see that some of the friction fit shim inside had moved so everything was moving. By the time I figured it out it was a lost cause.

Yeah even beetles nowadays are a bit pricey to begin with. Still definitely cheaper than those mustangs tho. Good luck to you and I hope you end up with a good bug!

I can see what your saying but there’s actually a large fan on the other side that sucks air up from the bottom which should be cool, and on top the luggage rack has a good curve that brings the warm air over the transaxle and out. My only mistake was not putting in a bypass for when it’s cold because the engine won’t actually warm up enough.

@@smithsgarage273 yeah I was wondering if there was a fan there. On my sandrail my radiator was horizontally mounted and even with a fan I wasn't getting sufficient cooling and had to change it to upright. On my turbocharger air to air cooler I had to add a scoop. When I had a 914 I added an external oil cooler like you have and also had to deal with location issues probably to a high degree than you did. Oh by the way, I live in Phoenix where it's 110 in the summer time so you can imagine how important it was to keep these engines running as cool as possible

@@mmricci2861 wow yeah phoenix is very hot. I only put mine in for peace of mind when stuck in traffic during the summer. I don’t know what 40° Celsius is in Fahrenheit but that’s the hottest I’ve been in and the car stays a decent temperature.

Thank you! I’m really happy to hear that. Hope you enjoy

I’ll have to check it out, thanks for letting me know, and thanks for watching.

That’s good to know because yeah I’ve had issues with that pulley. I’m thinking about switching but it’s also just nice looking. Thanks for your support!

@@smithsgarage273yeh my engine builder will not use alloy pulleys only steel og ones or the old santana alloy ones which had a steel inner.

Yes I am, 4 inch narrowed beam, I have a full video on how I made it myself if you wanna check it out.

I love wheels, I have 4 inch narrowed too. I want the wheels. I saw you had some rubbing- was that when you were real low? I am on air ride. Fully up and down. I really want to buy the 6inch wheels.

@@user-gx3pz6qs9f I’m fairly sure it was only from when I was really low. I could only hear it when I’m turned as sharp as I can, and I’m under slight articulation. I don’t think I’ve had any issues with it lately. I’m also on disks instead of drums which I believe change the offset a bit, I’m not sure by how much but that should also be something to consider.

God bless you for your time.